October 19, 2023

We enjoyed our lunch at Jamesport Vineyards so much, we decided to head a little further down the road and do it again at Paumanok.  We hadn’t been there since before the pandemic, so it was definitely time to go back.  We were planning to sit outside on their pleasant wooden deck, but just as we got there the sun hid behind some clouds and a breeze made us shiver.  Of course, shortly after we were settled inside the sun came back out—it was that kind of a if-you-don’t-like-the-weather-wait-five-minutes day—but we were happy with our table by the large windows.

We were shown to our seat by a pleasant young woman, who also provided us with a bottle of chilled water.  The tables were all already set, with sets of four glasses for tastings and larger glasses for the water, plus very attractive seasonal arrangements of gourds, etc.  We perused the menus, one for wine and another for food, and decided to share a Winemaker Flight, of two whites and two reds for $22, and get the Cheese and Charcuterie Board for $35. 

Our flight arrived about ten or fifteen minutes before our lunch, so we had plenty of time to sample all the wines before starting on the bountiful tray of food.  That meant that we knew which wines we liked the best, and then had the chance to decide which went best with the snacks.

The board was ample, enough for at least four people, and we ended up taking home many crackers (including some very tasty gluten-free ones), half the little loaf of bread—which arrived warm, a nice touch—most of the olives and cornichons, some cheese, and a couple of slices of prosciutto and salami.  We enjoyed the brie the most, as the other cheeses were…undistinguished, but overall we were happy with the food.  Another time, I might think about ordering a la carte, though that might end by costing more.  It is nice that they use compostable bamboo utensils and plates, though those knives and forks, unfortunately, don’t work very well.  By the way, they don’t allow outside food, and dogs are only permitted during the week.  I guess they figure it gets too busy on weekends to allow for dogs.

Our waiter, Rob, checked back with us at proper intervals, and shared his knowledge of and enthusiasm for the wines, which enhanced our experience.

•  2022 Chenin Blanc          $32

“Multi-dimensional,” opined my tasting buddy, as we enjoyed our first sips.  The aroma reminds me of white grape juice, and the flavor mixes sweet and tart, with notes of ripe pineapple.  Very good, we decide, and move on to our next wine, leaving about half the glass to consume with our cheese and charcuterie.

• 2021 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay          $32

I was a bit concerned about this, as I often dislike oaked chardonnays, but Rob assures us that this is aged in neutral, or used, oak barrels for only six months, so it is not too oaky.  He’s right, and we find this pleasantly smooth, “fruit forward,” according to my pal, who has been reading Wine Spectator.  I think it has a taste that is a nice balance between steel and barrel fermented chards.  It also goes the best with our lunch.  I used to think that charcuterie, being meat, should be paired with reds, but now I prefer whites.

• 2020 Merlot       $36

There are so many versions of merlot on the North Fork that there is surely one for every taste.  This one has aromas of cherry and oak shavings, but does not have much fruit taste.  I say it is rather light, and my husband says, “It’s kind of quiet,” which I think is apt.

• 2021 Cabernet Franc       $36

We prefer the cab franc, which, though it is also light, with soft tannins, has more interesting fruit flavors and a longer finish.  I think it also goes better with the cheese than the merlot. By the way, we felt the pour was more than adequate for sharing the flight.

Reasons to visit:  pleasant deck and tasting room; good service; the chenin blanc, though all the wines were drinkable; a pricey but bountiful cheese and charcuterie board; dogs allowed during the week.