Raphael Winery: On a Rainy Day

September 27, 2024

I love how the building looks like it flew over from Tuscany.

We had had a lovely run of warm, sunny days, which, I have been told, is weather vineyard managers like as harvest season begins.  However, this Thursday dawned cloudy, with drizzles forecast for the day, so we needed to think carefully about where to bring our visitors.  No sitting outside, which meant several wineries we had been thinking of were not possible.  Then we remembered that one visitor has Italian roots, and the other French, so we decided to take them first to Raphael, which looks like it was plucked out of Tuscany and dropped on Main Road, and then to Bistro Demarchelier in Greenport. Both choices worked out well!

The back bar.

At Raphael we were greeted by a sign telling us to check in at the “back bar,” which we did, and were told we could choose any table.  We decided on one next to the windows that look out onto the vineyard.  Quickly, a server brought us bottles of Poland Spring water and menus.  As our guests admired the view and the large room (Did they have events here?  Oh yes, I always check their website if I want to come here, to be sure they are not closed for a wedding or other party.), we looked over the menu, which offers six different flights.   Flights include all white, all chardonnay, all red, mixed, mixed premium, and premium red.  After some discussion, we decided to both get the mixed premium, of four wines for $35, so we could sample various types of wine and compare notes. 

Did we want any food?  There’s a fairly substantial list of options, from pizzas to sliders, but we had just had lunch (Taking advantage of the fall bounty at the farm stands, I had served a Caprese salad and melon with prosciutto, among other items.), so we declined.  Instead, the server brought us a little plate of water crackers, a nice touch, with our flights.  I forgot to take a picture of the flight, but there was plenty of wine to share.  

As we drank, we discussed the price of the wine, and why wine aged in oak costs more.  I mentioned the “angel’s share,” the idea that the wine which evaporates through the pores of the oak goes to the angels, and our friend said that’s why he wants to go to heaven—to share the angel’s share.  It would be nice if there was a special place reserved in heaven for winemakers and wine drinkers. 

  • 2020 First Label Sauvignon Blanc          $40

Aged in oak, this sauvignon blanc reminded our friend of a white Bordeaux.  It is mellow, not overly oaky, with an aroma of grass and crushed fern.  I think someone who normally found sauvignon blancs too citrusy or “sharp,” as a friend used to say, would like it.  It would go with sole meuniere, opined our friend.

We cleared our palates with these water crackers.
  • 2021 First Label Chardonnay    $50

Oaky? Yes indeed, not my favorite type of chardonnay.  It has an aroma of vanillin and lots of butterscotch taste.  One friend, who doesn’t like many wines, likes this one.  It’s okay, as well as oaky, jokes the other.  Maybe it would go well with charcuterie, but it’s not a wine I would choose to buy.

Oops, I forgot to take a picture until we were almost done!
  • 2019 La Fontana            $45

Named for the lovely fountain out in front of the tasting room, this is a blend of 33% merlot, 25% petit verdot, 17% cabernet sauvignon, 16% cabernet franc, and 9% malbec.  The wine is also lovely, with aromas of plums and berries and a pleasantly fruity taste, though light on tannins, the type of red one could pair with roast chicken.  We like it.

In nice weather, this veranda is a pleasant place to sit. Not today!
  • 2019 Primo        $86

Whew, that’s pricy for out here!  Another blend, this is 60% merlot, 20% petit verdot, 15% malbec, and 5% cabernet franc.  The oak aging is evident in the aroma, which has that tobacco/cigarette aroma one often gets.  I think it also smells a bit like green olives.  It has some depth, with dark fruit tastes, and tannins that make me think it could be better a bit more aged. 

Pretty room.

Reasons to visit:  attractive large space, with a pretty veranda in back; pleasant service, including free bottles of water and a plate of crackers; the First Label Sauvignon Blanc and La Fontana; they have a classy gift shop; more substantial menu of food items than many other places.  It’s also nice to visit during the holiday season, when it is even more decorated than it usually is. Oh, and in case you’re wondering, no Ninja Turtles here!

Channing Daughters:  Variety is the Spice

September 17, 2024

The entrance. Note: no dogs allowed.

This is the Nofowineaux blog, but one of my favorite wineries, Channing Daughters, is on the South Fork.  Why do I like it?  For a small winery, Channing Daughters has an amazing variety of wines.  The menu of flights lists about twenty-eight different wines, plus you can do a tasting of their five vermouths.  Each flight consists of five wines, with a fairly generous pour, for $28.  We are wine club members, and part of the fun of being in their wine club is you never know what you are going to get in your shipments.  They are also very generous with wine club members, and we are often treated to an extra taste or two. 

As you can see from this display, they have quite an array of choices!

We had visitors who shared with us a love for the town of Sag Harbor, where both of us had had family connections, so we drove onto the ferry in Greenport, sashayed across Shelter Island, and boarded the South Ferry for the short crossing to Sag Harbor.  After a leisurely stroll down Main Street, noting what had changed and what hadn’t—the Wharf Shop, the hardware store, the Variety Store (with signs still saying 5 cents, etc.), the theater with its Art Deco sign, and Blooming Shells were still there, but there were more fancy boutiques and restaurants than in the past—we headed to Scuttlehole Road and turned onto the pebbled driveway that led to Channing.

We were happy to see some favorites of our children were still there!

We were greeted and shown to a shaded picnic table on the lawn and began to peruse the menu.  We decided that my husband and I would share the Spectrum Wine Flight, which offers (duh) a spectrum of their offerings, and one guest would do the same, while the other, a fan of chardonnay, chose the chardonnay flight.  Did she prefer oaked or steel chardonnays, the server asked.  Oaked.  Good, because three of the five were oaked. 

Note the sculpture, made from an uprooted tree trunk, made by Mr. Channing.

Our stroll around Sag Harbor had worked up an appetite, so we also ordered cheese and crackers from the limited menu of snacks.  We would have liked to get the smoked bluefish dip, but they were out of it, so we settled on Mecox Bay Dairy’s offering of three slices of cheese ($20), plus a package of Mini Toasts ($6), which turned out to be plenty.

We were glad to see they use bamboo plates and utensils, which are recyclable.

The flights arrived on unique tiered holders, the stem of each glass inserted into a circular holder.  As we admired the presentation, we noted that an advantage of this was that they did not take up much room on the table. 

We enjoyed the wines, the bucolic setting, the beautiful warm day, and the company of each other as we sipped and munched.

The Spectrum Flight.
  •  2021 Heart White Blend             $20

A flowery aroma like honeysuckle is the first thing I sense.  The wine has a taste that reminds me of some thyme honey I once tasted, which was not sweet, but a touch minerally.  “Very clean on the tongue,” opined our guest, and “refreshing,” said my tasting buddy.  We like it, and our guest thought it would pair well with halibut.

  • 2021 Rosato Syrah         $24

In typical Channing fashion, they have five rosés, not the usual one or two.  This one is very light, and I generally prefer fruitier rosés, but it is nicely dry, and would pair well with oysters, like the ones we plan to get from Braun’s Wednesday night.  (We got Peconic Bay Gold, and they were wonderful!)

The Chardonnay flight–note the varying colors.
  • 2018 Meditazione          $42

Is it the power of suggestion, or does this orange colored wine actually smell like oranges?  Orange wine is made by fermenting white wine grapes with the skins on, as though you were making red wine, and is very tasty, with notes of citrus and herb tea.  We think this would be excellent with charcuterie.  Or as my friend puts it, sometimes 1+1=3, when you find just the right combination.

  • 2020 Heart Artist Series              $25

This is a red blend, of 48% merlot, 22% dornfelder, 11% refosco, 10% syrah, and 9% petit verdot—a blend you won’t find anywhere on the North Fork!  This is a light red, with an aroma of berries and some nice fruit tastes, and goes well with the cheddar cheese on our plates. 

  • 2021 Moscato Petillant Naturel               $29

Aaand how many sparkling wines to you think they make?  I don’t even know, but this one is 100% muscat ottonel.  The aroma reminds me of lemonade, and the taste is light, with lots of tiny bubbles.  Most flights will have you start with the sparkling wine, but ending with it works well, too. 

Extras:  We get a little taste of Envelope, another of the orange wines, to compare with Meditazione.  It has “lots of body,” opines our guest, and is “unusual,” with notes of lychee and butterscotch.  It would go great with duck, like the duck breasts with blackberry sauce I had made the night before.

Did the chardonnay flight please?  Yes indeed.  In fact, our friend was pleasantly surprised by how much she liked the steel fermented wines, finding the 2022 Chardonnay a “refreshing sipping wine.”  She buys a bottle of it and another of L’Enfant Sauvage to have with the lobsters we are planning on for Wednesday night (after the oysters).

Descriptions of two of the vermouths.

Then we get into a discussion with the server about their vermouths, and she brings us small tastes of numbers one and two.  One is fairly traditional, and would certainly go well in a martini, but two is really interesting, with spicy notes.  I decide to get a bottle of each, and try number two with tomato juice, in a lower alcohol take on a Bloody Mary.

Reasons to visit:  you fancy a jaunt to the South Fork; the incredible array of choices; an intimate space with cheerful service; all the wines, but I especially like the Scuttlehole Chardonnay and the Meditazione; the vermouths.

Our view…

Suhru and Lieb: A Successful Blend

September 13, 2024

The merger is so new, they don’t have a permanent sign yet.

It has been a beautiful week, so when our friends the winery aficionados texted us and asked if we would like to do a tasting, we quickly said yes.  We were delighted to hear we’d be going to Lieb, since we hadn’t been there since February 2020, and we were curious to see if anything had changed since Russell Hearn et al bought the winery recently.  Hearn has been the winemaker for Lieb since 1993, and he also had his own label, Suhru, with an intimate tasting room on Main Road.  Now the two labels are combined into one location, on bucolic Oregon Road, right across the street from Oregon Road Organics.

View of Oregon Road Organics. I’ll have to check it out some day.

At the moment, the tasting menu has four options.  One is just for Lieb Estate wines, another for just Suhru label wines, and two others that mix and match the two.  In addition, our very knowledgeable and chatty server, Nate, told us we could sub any particular wine in or out of a list. Our friend is a member of the Lieb wine club, and was entitled to two free tastings, so we deferred to him.  He decided to get the Lieb Estate flight, and we decided it would be fun to follow suit, so we could compare opinions.  You get five tastes for $30 (if you’re not in the wine club!).

Nate informed us that in the future they will be editing these lists, to remove redundancies, and will probably use the Suhru label for some experimentation.

I always appreciate it when they serve a bottle of water.

After deciding on our flights, we turned our attention to the food menu, since it was lunch time.  They have a well-curated list of cheeses and “accoutrements,” so we chose the 4 ounce serving of Beemster cheese, a well-aged Gouda from the Netherlands ($16), the smoked trout ($18), and Marcona almonds ($6).  The food came out tastefully arranged on trays:  a generous serving of cheese, plenty of crackers, a fillet of pink smoked trout, plus a scattering of dried apricots.  Nate also brought us a bottle of nice cold water to share.

As we sipped and munched, we admired the beautiful setting, the warm day, and the pleasant patio where we sat and chatted.  One topic was whether or not it made sense to grow pinot noir grapes on Long Island, since apparently they don’t do as well as other varietals.  That means wine made here from them may be more expensive than it’s worth, which led to a discussion of the issue of price and value.  I was thinking about merlot, one of the most prevalent grapes on the North Fork, local wine from which can be priced anywhere from about $11 to $75, or more.  What makes one cost more than the other, and is it worth the difference? 

The flight, with plenty of wine for sharing.
  •  2021 Sparkling Pinot Blanc       $58

It always feels very festive to start with a sparkler, so we clinked glasses and sipped.  Nice aroma of ripe peaches, lots of fizzy small bubbles, good fruit flavors and not sweet.  One friend commented that it was “good for celebratory occasions.” Good beginning!

  •  2022 Pinot Blanc           $26

The aroma of this one is similar to the previous wine, but the taste is very light.  I think it would be overwhelmed by any strongly flavored food. 

The interior looks similar, but I remember some comfy couches the last time we were there.
  • 2021 Cabernet Franc                   $35

We got into a discussion of the various types of oak used for wine barrels—American, French, Hungarian—and I found it interesting to learn that each one has different characteristics, which influences how the wine aged in it tastes.  So much to learn about wine-making!  In any event, this is a “smooth” easy-to-drink red, with not much tannins.  Not much fruit, either.

  • 2020 Merlot       $30

Despite what the movie “Sideways” opined, I like merlots, and this one is a fairly typical North Forker, with cherry aroma and flavor, and some light tannins.  Very nice.

  • 2020  Meritage                 $50

“Meritage” means this is a Bordeaux blend, and it is my favorite of the day.  Lots of dark plum and mixed berry flavor, some tannins.  Yummy.

Our extras!

Extra!  We decide, since there are still some munchies, and the day is so fine, to get a bottle of something else, and take home whatever we don’t finish.  Nate brings us three little samples and an extra cup, so we can decide.  We try the Suhru cabernet franc, the Lieb cab franc, and a syrah (which may be the Suhru shiraz, which is the same grape by a different name).  The syrah is just okay—not enough depth for me.  But, surprisingly, since our friend and I often have different tastes in wine, we both like the Suhru cab franc, which has a hint of green pepper at the end.  We decide that the most important question when choosing a wine is, “Do I like this?”  We like it.

Reasons to visit:  location off the beaten track, with no limos or buses allowed; beautiful bucolic setting, with a comfy patio and pleasant tasting room; the sparking pinot blanc, the Meritage, and the Suhru cabernet franc; nice selection of cheeses and nibbles.

That’s quite an array of options.

Bridge Lane: Sunshine and Rainbows

August 30, 2024

Though Bridge Lane is close to where we live, we hadn’t been there since 2021, so when a nice afternoon with no plans presented itself, we decided to head there.  It’s been a frustrating summer for weather, sometimes too hot, other times too cold, and surprisingly rainy.  I’ve turned off my automatic sprinkling system several times, figuring why pay for water (and deplete the aquifer), when Mother Nature is being so generous.  But this Labor Day weekend afternoon was sunny and warm, without being too warm, so off we went.

The tasting room is on the corner of Sound Avenue and Cox Neck Road, but is screened from the traffic with vegetation and walls, making the outside rainbow-striped tables feel sheltered.  We were the only ones there for a while, until a large family arrived, bearing children and picnic food.  They apologized for invading “our” space! 

On this quiet afternoon we entered the small tasting room and ordered a single tasting to be shared, and the pleasant young women behind the bar quickly filled six glasses (for $18, up only three dollars since three years ago) on a tray, and handed it to us to bring outside ourselves.  One interesting feature here is that five of the six, excepting only the pinot noir, were filled from taps, not bottles.  Which reminds me to mention that wine here can be ordered by the glass, can, bottle, box, or, believe it or not, keg, which gives me a whole new image of a kegger (rosé for a bachelorette party?).  Last time we were here, our guests bought a couple of boxes to take home, and seemed happy with their purchase. 

Unlike in the past, they now offer snacks for sale, a “sweet board” and a “salty board,” both featuring an array of snacks for $28, plus the ubiquitous bags of North Fork potato chips (great chips, by the way).  They still allow outside food, and pups are welcome at the outside tables if kept leashed. By the way, right across Cox Neck is a little shopping center, featuring a deli and a gourmet take-out food shop, and perhaps some day, if it ever opens, a pizza place.  (Check the hours for Wendy’s Deli and Ali Katz, since neither is open every day.)

Note that there are a couple of non-alcoholic beverages for the designated driver, etc.

Having just had lunch, we skipped the snacks and carried our tray of tastes outside, to sit at one of the rainbow-striped picnic tables, nicely shaded by an umbrella, and began our tasting. Music of the “Margaritaville” genre played softly in the background. 

Each glass sat atop a brief description of the wine inside it.  All the wines are $20 per bottle.

  •  White Merlot

But, you may object, isn’t merlot a red wine grape?  Yes, indeed it is, but if you don’t let the juice ferment with the skin, you can get white or rosé, depending on how much contact with the skin it has.  This was actually our favorite of the day, a light, pleasant white, with an aroma of citrus and honeysuckle.  I think it tastes like pink grapefruit; a bit acidic but also smooth, says my tasting buddy.  Now if only we had a dozen oysters…

  • Sauvignon Blanc

Another simple wine, with a funky aroma of crushed ferns (trust me on this, I have a whole garden bed full of ferns), neither sweet nor very dry.  I taste pear and lime, though the tasting notes suggest melon.  I’ve recently been enjoying the ripe melons from the farm stand, and this does not taste like any of them.

  • Chardonnay

“I’ve had better,” notes my fellow taster, and I agree.  This is a very light and simple chard, with maybe some Granny Smith apple taste.  Almost no aroma.

The rose on a pink stripe.
  • Rosé

The little label under the glass says, “Notes of guava and peach blossom.”  I’ve never eaten a peach blossom, but I have had guavas.  Maybe an underripe guava?  This is another very light and easy to drink wine.

  • Red Blend

There’s no information as to which wines are in this blend, but I’m pretty sure, given the aroma and taste of cherry, that there’s plenty of merlot in there.  It is dry, with some tannins.  I say I taste plums, but my buddy says, “Plums would be pushing it.”

And a caterpillar on a green stripe!
  • Pinot Noir

This wine has a bit more to it, with tastes of blackberry and pomegranate, quite tannic and dry.  They say strawberry, which I do not taste.  For the price, this is not bad, and if I were to sit here with a slice of pizza (c’mon, pizzeria, open up), this is the wine I’d get.

We did not explore, but there are some games in the background.

Reasons to visit:  low-key pleasant setting; dogs, children, and outside snacks allowed; very reasonable prices; the white merlot and the pinot noir; wines available by the keg(!), or other more conventional containers.

All done! Just the right amount of wine for the two of us.