Lieb Cellars: A Beautiful Setting September 12, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with 8 Hands, Bridge Lane, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Lieb Cellars, Lieb Reserve, Long Island, Malbec, Meritage, merlot, North Fork, petit verdot, Pinot Blanc, Red Blend, sauvignon blanc, Unoaked Chardonnay, white merlot, wine tasting September 14, 2017

http://liebcellars.com/history/

The Lieb Cellars tasting room is located on bucolic Oregon Road.

In many ways, September is the best month on the North Fork, and our guests agreed. We had gone for a walk to Love Lane and a swim in the Peconic Bay, and now we were seated on the attractive patio of Lieb Cellars on Oregon Road, gazing out at beautiful farm fields. Later we planned to barbeque chicken from 8 Hands, plus eggplant and zucchini and corn from a farm stand. Perhaps we could cap off that menu with a bottle of wine from Lieb. However, we didn’t find any wine that we wanted to take home for that meal.

It was a warm day, so we appreciated the bottle of cool water we were given.

On the other hand, we enjoyed our tasting, if not so much the wines themselves, which was brought to us on trays so we could sit and sip and discuss and enjoy the lovely setting. The very enthusiastic and well-informed server, a young man who is really studying wine, gave us a quick (maybe too quick!) rundown on the wines we had ordered, and then left us to ourselves, just checking back periodically to see if we had any questions.

The menu includes snacks, plus drinks for your designated driver.

The menu offers three options: four whites plus the rosé for $16, five reds for $18, or six Reserve wines for $20. You can also get cheese and charcuterie plates, but we knew we had a lovely selection of cheeses from the Love Lane Cheese Shop waiting for us at home, so we opted not to get anything. They don’t allow you to bring your own food, but they do permit dogs on the outside patio. We decided to share one white flight and one red flight. The good-sized servings came out in attractive round-bottomed glasses, and we also were given a bottle of chilled water plus glasses for the water. Some of the wines are labeled Bridge Lane and others Lieb Reserve, which I abbreviate BL and LR.

The whites and the rose. Each glass sits on a coaster which identifies the wine and the order in which to drink them.

2016 BL White Merlot $18

This is a white wine made from merlot grapes by not giving them any time on the skins. The aroma was nice—sweet, spicy, a bit minerally—but we found the wine itself lacked character.

2015 LR Pinot Blanc $22

They are very proud of their Pinot Blanc, but we were underwhelmed. It is very citrusy and tart, with not much fruit and a slightly chemical aroma.

We liked the patio, which we had to ourselves on this mid-week day. One time we arrived on a weekend and had to leave, as it was full.

2016 BL Unoaked Chardonnay $16

We like this the best of the whites, finding it had a better balance than the others, with some richness. I liked it. It has a honeysuckle aroma and nice lemony notes. It would go well with food, though we felt it would not stand up to the spicy barbeque sauce we planned.

2016 BL Sauvignon Blanc $18

Our server cautioned us that this was not like a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. It was not at all floral, and my brother pronounced it “tame.” It smells almost like candy, with some minerality, and the taste is very light, almost evanescent.

2016 BL Rosé $18

Pink? Not so much. Another very light wine, this had no strawberry aroma. It is available in an eight gallon box.

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2016 BL Red Blend $20

Our server was very proud that he could inform us this was like a right bank Bordeaux, a blend of 44% merlot, 22% cabernet franc, 13% petit verdot, 12% malbec, and 9% cabernet sauvignon. You can sense in the taste that this spent a little time in oak—six months. It’s very soft, with a taste in which cherry predominates. I said it was okay for casual drinking, but my brother opined it was “completely uninteresting, like a person without a face.” Ouch.

Note the dogs in the background.

2015 LR Merlot $24

As we sipped this somewhat classic merlot, we got into a humorous discussion of the movie Sideways, and the damage it did to merlot sales. Nothing wrong with a good merlot, I said, but my brother felt this was a “Kool-Aid version of merlot.” Well, it would be fine with a burger.

2015 LR Cabernet Franc $30

I thought this cabernet franc was not bad, with dark fruit tastes of blackberry and plum, dry, with some tannins though overall rather soft. But I had to agree with my brother that it had no depth.

The Petit Verdot looks as good as it tastes.

2014 LR Petit Verdot $35

Finally, a wine we could agree on. We all liked the petit verdot, made of 98% petit verdot and 2% “mystery grapes,” according to our server. 2014 was a hot season, so it was a good year for ripe red grapes. This wine is interesting, with a distinctive earthy, piney aroma and layers of flavor. We speculated that another brother would like it, since he favors “odd duck” wines. Long finish. If I were to sit and have a glass of wine here, this is the one I would get.

2015 LR Meritage $35

And here is their left bank Bordeaux style: 47% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 17% cabernet franc, 4% petit verdot, and 2% malbec. We made our server check the math! It worked out. The aroma is fruity, the taste less so. Given the tannins, it may age into something better, but for the moment it is a bit disappointing for the price. It would be okay as a $12 wine, opined my brother. Well, that’s a problem with North Fork wineries in general—because of the small size of their production, they can’t achieve the economies of scale from other places. Nevertheless, we like to support the local wineries.

The inside room is attractive and comfortable.

Reasons to visit: beautiful setting on a back road, surrounded by farm fields; the Unoaked Chardonnay, the Lieb Reserve Petit Verdot; you can bring your dog.

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Clovis Point: Good Things Come in Small Packages September 3, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Black Label Chardonnay, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, Clovis Point, Gewurtraminer, Long Island, Malbec, merlot, North Fork, petit verdot, Robert Parker, rose, sauvignon blanc, Spanish cheese, syrah, wine tasting September 6, 2017

http://www.clovispointwines.com/

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“We’re small,” said our very well-informed multi-tasking server, “only 3,500 cases per year.” She added that they have just eight acres of vines, and we discussed the issues Croteaux is having with Southold town over how many acres you need to have in order to do a tasting room. But Clovis Point is in the town of Riverhead, so no problem. Small also describes the one-ounce pour (which she warned us about in advance), but not the reputation of this boutique winery, which has garnered a number of high ratings from wine judges.

One view of the pleasant tasting room

The tasting room, a former potato barn, is a nice size, and there is also a covered porch to one side. The walls are adorned with a display of art for sale, so the space functions as a gallery as well. The flower garden leading to the door is also esthetically pleasing!

The art on the walls is for sale.

Some of the pretty flowers by the entrance

The menu offers two flights: a Cold Flight of four wines for $13 and a Red Flight of four reds for $15, plus a few premium wines at $5 per taste. We were with friends, and decided each couple would do all eight wines, given that the pour is so small. We also bought a generous tray of Spanish cheeses and baguette slices for $12, plus an eight-dollar jar of delicious fig spread, much of which we took home. While we often don’t order food with our tastings, it is true that having wine with food enhances the experience.

We had pretty much decimated the cheese plate before I thought to take a picture. It was very good.

Some nice options on the snack menu

2016 Sauvignon Blanc $28

“This is a seasonal wine,” our server informed us, “and we usually sell out of it by winter.” I can see why, as it is a light, easy to drink summery wine, with a floral and mineral aroma and peach taste. Steel fermented, it is tart and dry.

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2015 Chardonnay $25

Another steel-fermented wine, this chardonnay is mixed with 3% gewürztraminer, which might account for a touch of pineapple taste. The aroma is mineral, earth, and pine, and our friend says it tastes like a Granny Smith apple to her. We agree. Our server explains that because it is steel fermented it does not undergo malolactic fermentation, and therefore gives you the “pure expression” of the grape.

The arrowhead on the label is a Clovis point, a type of prehistoric arrowhead.

2015 Black Label Chardonnay $28

A nice touch—before each new taste, the server rinses the glass with a bit of the next wine. This is better than when they rinse the glasses with water, as a little water always is left behind and can influence the taste of the wine. And when they don’t rinse the glasses at all, you may get a bit of the previous wine mixing with your next taste. In any event, this chardonnay is a mixture of steel and oak fermented wine, so it is not heavily oaked. Not being fans of oaky chards, we are pleased with this one, which has lots of citrus taste and only a touch of vanilla. It’s not fruity.

You can see how small the pour is.

Rosé $22.50

Also seasonal, according to our server, the rosé tends to sell out by the end of summer. It is composed of 100% cabernet franc, and is made by the saignée method, where the grapes sit on the skins for three days. This is such a light rosé that we agree one might, if tasting it with eyes closed, not know it was a rosé. It’s steel fermented and quite dry, with only a faint strawberry aroma and a taste more like raspberry than strawberry.

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2014 Merlot $29

All the reds are aged in either French or Hungarian oak, we are told, as our server puts out fresh glasses for the red tasting. A blend of 85% merlot, 8% cabernet franc, 2% syrah, 2% malbec, 2% petit verdot, and 1% cabernet sauvignon, this is not as complex or deep as one would think given all the ingredients. However, it is a good merlot, dry and pleasant to drink. “It’s my after work wine,” notes our server. Yes, it would be relaxing to sit and sip a glass of this, perhaps with some cheese.

They have two bars for when the room gets busy.

2014 Cabernet Franc $35

Yum. This time I agree with Robert Parker, who has given this wine a score of 90%. A blend of 96% cabernet franc with 3% cabernet sauvignon and 1% petit verdot, this has fascinating aromas of mushroom, forest, and smoke, plus what our friend describes as “really ripe plums.” It is delicious, dry at the end with some nice tannins, tasting of over-ripe cherries. Nicely complex. If I were here for a music event, this is the wine I would get by the glass.

You can see how small the bottle is for the Syrah and the Malbec.

2014 Syrah $34

Syrah is usually blended with other wines, but Clovis Point decided to try bottling it by itself. Since they didn’t have that much of it, they also decided to use 500 ml. bottles, so that price is quite high. I insist that it smells like black olives, and my friend adds that it actually smells meaty. It is dry, tannic, and spicy. I like it.

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2014 Malbec $34

Meh. Another 500ml. bottle, this is a blend of 94% malbec, plus 4% merlot, 1% cabernet sauvignon, and 1% syrah. It has a nice fruity aroma, but the wine itself is rather light, with no depth. “Flat,” says my friend. I add that it lacks body.

A view of the porch

Reasons to visit: small winery with a nice room and some good choices; the 2015 chardonnay, the Black Label chardonnay, the 2014 Cabernet Franc; you are the designated driver but you want to taste the wines where the pour is small.

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The grapes are starting to ripen.

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Roanoke Vineyards: Sipping and Shopping August 20, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting, Uncategorized and tagged with Albarino, ARC, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, Colorfield, Infinite Possibility, Lombardi's Italian Grocery, Long Island, Love Lane, Love Lane Cheese Shop, Mattituck, North Fork, Orlovsky Hardware, Pinot Blanc, Prime Number, Roanoke Vineyards, Sauvigonon Blanc, Single Acre Merlot, Special Flight, Summer Flight, The Wild, viognier, wine tasting August 28, 2017

https://www.roanokevineyards.net/

The view out the door to lovely Love Lane.

Roanoke Vineyards has a tasting room conveniently located on Love Lane in Mattituck, so you can browse the shops before or after your tasting. The shops include the excellent Love Lane Cheese Shop, the Sweet Shop, a toy store, a yarn store, an art gallery/framing store, a pet accessory store, a dress shop, Orlovsky’s Hardware store, Lombardi’s Market, and several restaurants. We decided to celebrate having seen a 70% solar eclipse with a wine tasting, while several members of our party (two of whom were too young to drink) cruised the shops. By the way, although there is parking on Love Lane, there is also ample free parking in the town lot to the west of the street.

One view of the tasting room.

The tasting room is small but attractive, and is augmented in warm weather by an enclosed patio in the back. We stood at the bar, which allowed us to chat with the very personable server. The menu offered two main options: The Summer Flight, of four wines for $14, or the Special Flight, of three wines for $12. The three of us decided to share one of each. The wines from the Special Flight are marked with an *. We also noted that the tasting room sells bottles of wine from two South Fork wineries—Channing Daughters and Wölffer Estates—and Red Hook. Good to know, since it is sometimes hard to find their wines in stores.

The back yard patio.

2016 Roanoke Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc $26

We started out with this steel fermented white, tart and spicy with some creaminess. We had an amusing discussion with the server over the aroma of cat pee, which I would also describe as the smell you sometimes get when you have kept flowers in water for too long. Fortunately, the wine does not taste like the smell.

*2016 R.V. The Wild $22

Wild refers to the use of “wild,” or indigenous yeast, or in other words the yeast that just occurs naturally, rather than a purchased yeast. I would imagine that it takes some courage to do this, since you risk that the wine might not come out well. Happily, this chardonnay did, with an aroma of gooseberry and a rather nutty taste—as in it tastes like nuts. We all like it, and our son-in-law buys a bottle to take home.

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2016 Infinite Possibility $22

This one is also delicious, a blend of 66% chardonnay, 25% sauvignon blanc, 5% viognier and 5% albariño. We taste pineapple and honeydew in this steel fermented white. Our relative notes that this is the type of wine, “I could drink all day.” Perfect summer white.

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*2014 Single Acre Merlot $45

All the grapes for this merlot come from one particular acre, so it has a limited production, and all the pruning, etc., is done by hand. It has the typical merlot cherry aroma and flavor. Nice, but not worth a fuss.

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Colorfield $26

Extra! Noting my note-taking, and our engagement with the wines, the server says we need to try this one, a blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and pinot blanc that is not on the menu. It is light and dry, and, we agree, another wine one could sip “all day.”

2015 R.V. ARC $34

Arc? Why? The server is not sure why this blend of 72% estate cabernet franc and 28% merlot has this name, but by the next wine, we have a theory. In any event, this is a dry, pleasant red that would go well with burgers. It has just a touch of cherry taste, plus blackberry and blueberry.

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*2014 Prime Number $59

Okay, there is a definite theme of mathematic-inspired names. The server notes that a retired teacher works for the winery, writing copy for the menu and helping come up with names. We theorize that the teacher must have been a math teacher, and our son-in-law buys a bottle for his father, who is both a retired math teacher and an oenophile. Perfect! We decide that he should cellar this wine, which has the types of tannins that make us think it would age well, though now it is “too tight” and “closed.” A blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon and 18% merlot, it had some interesting layers of flavor. I’d like to taste it in a few years (hint!).

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2014 R.V. Cabernet Sauvignon $45

And here’s another wine that we decide would benefit from some aging—and we buy a bottle to store in our cellar. The aroma is slightly earthy, but mainly plummy, as is the taste. We tell our companion about how early on so many of the wines out here tasted earthy or barnyard-y, a trait the winemakers seem to have succeeded in ameliorating.

As you can see from this list, you can buy wines from a number of different wineries at Roanoke’s Love Lane tasting room.

Reasons to visit: you want to do some shopping on Love Lane and need a respite; The Wild, Infinite Possibility, Prime Number, Cabernet Sauvignon; the ability to buy wines from Channing Daughters, Wölffer Estates, and Red Hook; a pleasantly intimate tasting room.

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Old Field Vineyards: Counting their Chickens August 11, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Blush de Noir, cabernet franc, Cacklin Rose, Commodore Perry, Little Creek Oyster Farm, Long Island, merlot, Mostly Steel Chardonnay, North Fork wine tasting, Old Field Vineyards, rooster tail, sauvignon blanc August 14, 2017

http://www.theoldfield.com/

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If you want to feel as though you are really out in the country, head almost all the way to Greenport and stop into the Old Field Vineyards, through the gate, past the barn and the Port-a-Pottie, to the rustic tasting room and open porch. Old Field is one of our favorite wineries to bring guests when the summer weather cooperates, since their porch is a charming place to sit and have a tasting as you look out onto the capacious lawn and watch children and chickens running around. Yes, chickens—and also roosters and a rather charismatic duck—have free rein of the place during the week (on weekends, when it is more crowded, they tend to be kept in the coop), and they sometimes will wander up onto the porch, where they thought my cousin’s hat straw might have been edible.

Off in the distance you can see the picnic tables and kids running around.

It wasn’t, but the wines were quite potable. The menu offers several options: Sample our Rosés (2) for $4.00, Sample our Chardonnays (2) for $6.00, Sample our Reds (4) for $12.00, or Sample our Everyday Mixed Flight (4) for $10.00. We had just eaten many oysters in Greenport at the Little Creek Oyster Farm, so we didn’t need snacks, but this is one place where you may bring a snack, or even a picnic. One cousin, S., wanted to try one rosé and one chardonnay, and the friendly and accommodating server told her that was no problem. The other cousin, R., opted for the red tasting, and we chose the mixed one, so we were able to try all the wines—plus one extra which was not included!

I hope people heed this sign.

One rooster.

Another rooster.

We chatted with our server about the fowl, and he noted that they actually serve a purpose, providing both pest control, as they gobble up bugs, and fertilizer for the vines. If you go on their web site, you will see that this is not the only part of their dedication to all things natural. The vineyard also has an interesting family history, so it is worthwhile to ask about it. We were busy chatting amongst ourselves this time, so we didn’t get into those stories. Also note that the following descriptions of the wines are not exactly in the order in which they appear on the menu, but are rather in the order in which we tasted them.

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2014 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $28

This was one cousin’s first taste, and she liked it. The aroma is butterscotch-y, but the taste is not too buttery, since it is a blend of oak and steel fermented chards. It has some light citrus notes as well.

Blush de Noir $18

Our tasting began with this rosé made from pinot noir grapes. We all agreed it was very light, with lots of grapefruit aroma and not a lot of fruit taste, and surprisingly lemony for a rosé. My cousin thought it could go with the pesto I had made a couple of nights ago, or seafood in a rich sauce, like scallops Alfredo.

This chicken was quite sure my cousin’s hat was edible.

2014 Rooster Tail $20

My other cousin’s tasting started with this red, a blend of mostly merlot with a little cabernet franc. “Nice, potable, everyday wine,” was his judgment, and we all concurred. The aroma combines cherry and tobacco with a bit of funkiness and the taste is dry, with cherry and not a lot of fruit. We got this one in our tasting as well.

2014 Mostly Steel Chardonnay $23

Comparing this chardonnay with the other one led to lots of conversations about oak vs. steel, and their various virtues and shortcomings. Overall, we thought this was the preferable chard here, clean and refreshing, with some green apple taste and lots of citrus. R commented on its “up front flavor.” S laughed that she had said the other chard smelled “woody” and this one smelled “metallic.”

The Cacklin’ Rose is quite dark, compared to their other rose.

2014 Cacklin’ Rosé $16

Venturing on her second taste, S commented that this smelled pleasantly like “old library.” It spends 24 hours on the skins, so is a more flavorful rosé than the other one. We all liked it, and I noted that it tastes like macerated strawberries.

2013 Merlot $26

The server mentioned that this was made from two clones of merlot, so we asked him to explain what that meant. They used to have two different clones of merlot, each grown in a separate field, but they discovered that one grew better than the other, so the weaker one was ripped out. As a result, this particular mixture ends as of 2015. Too bad, because it was quite yummy. In fact, we bought two bottles of it. It has lots of fruit, and S said she tasted cranberry, and we added yes, and also ripe cherries.

I love the mis-matched table clothes on the bar.

2013 Cabernet Franc $38

We all agreed that this, from R’s tasting, was the weakest of the reds, described by R as “watery.” It evanesces, I added, making use of my favorite word this summer. It has an aroma of red fruits and forest floor.

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2010 Commodore Perry $38

Named for the illustrious ancestor of the current owners of the vineyard, this is a wine they only make in good years. Cherry, tobacco, chocolate, thyme, juniper or bay leaf were some of the taste descriptors we used for this merlot. Also, “serious legs” and “very good.” We also learned that it was quite appropriate to name a wine for Commodore Perry, since he was known to carry wine with him on his voyages to give as gifts.

2015 Sauvignon Blanc

Speaking of gifts, after we paid for our tastings and the two bottles we bought, our cousin gave our server a very nice tip, at which point he offered did we want to taste anything else? We looked over the menu and realized that we had tasted every wine on it (nine in all, counting Rooster Tail twice). Ah, he said, but how about this one that is not on the tasting menu, producing a bottle of Charging Goose Sauvignon Blanc. S, noting that she had grown up on a farm, said it smelled like straw. We all liked this, too, and decided its lemon flavor would have gone well with those oysters we had eaten earlier.

Charging Goose? Maybe that’s why they have chickens and ducks, but no more geese.

Reasons to visit: you want to really feel as though you are out in the country; you want a place where you can bring a picnic and let children run around; you like chickens; the Rooster Tail, the Mostly Steel Chardonnay, the Cacklin’ Rosé, the 2013 Merlot, the Commodore Perry.

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The netting on the grapes prevents the birds from eating them.

Wölffer Estate: Trés Elegante August 2, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet sauvignon, Caya Cabernet Franc, channing daughters, chardonnay, Christian's Cuvee Merlot, Classic Red Blend, Croteaux, Fatalis Fatum Red Blend, Grandioso Rose, Hamptons, Parrish Art Museum, Perle Chardonnay, petit verdot, Rose Table Wine, Sagaponack, South Fork, wine tasting, Wolffer Estate August 4, 2017

http://www.wolffer.com/

The Wölffer Estate building is quite attractive.

We had an errand to run on the South Fork, one which couldn’t be put off until the winter, so we decided that as long as we would have to brave the traffic on Route 27—and there was a lot of it—we would make a day of it. So we visited the Parrish Art Museum (great installation of gigantic photos and videos of waves) and then headed to the Wölffer Estate tasting room in Sagaponack. We arrived there around lunch time, and a very pleasant hostess showed us to a table on the pretty back porch overlooking the vineyard.

We perused the menu, and were immediately struck by the prices. Well, we were in the Hamptons. They offer two tastings, each featuring four wines for $25, the Summer Flight and the Grand Flight. Figuring it would be a long time before we came back, we decided to get one of each, sharing tastes along the way—a decision facilitated by the fact that the wines in the two flights are well matched. Each one has a rosé, a chardonnay, and two reds. I was disappointed to see that All Summer in a Bottle, their popular rosé, was not in either tasting, though it was available by the glass. Wines by the glass range in price from $10 to $28, and bottle prices go all the way up to $110. Whew.

We thoroughly enjoyed this cheese tray.

Since it was lunch time, we also ordered a cheese board from their well-curated menu of snacks. We got very generous servings of our selections—Humboldt Fog, St. André, and Lamb Chopper—plus crackers (and more crackers when we used up our allotment) and a blob of guava paste for $25. Our flights arrived at the table in a series of carafes, lined up on nice slate trays, clearly labeled as to each wine, which we then poured at our leisure into our big wine glasses. And I do mean at our leisure, as we took our time, sipping and munching, for over an hour. It was a beautiful day, and we felt as though we were on vacation—a feeling facilitated by the view over the vines, the excellent cheeses, and the group at a nearby table conversing in French!

We also liked the back patio.

If you check out their web site, you will learn that the property also includes a horse farm—and the named wines are all named for horses from Wölffer’s barns—and this note in all caps: No Bachelorette Parties. When it was time to head home, we decided that it was worth it to take the ferries back to the North Fork rather than sit in the bumper-to-bumper traffic on 27. Good decision. The “Grand” tastes are marked with an *.

The Grand flight.

Rosé Table Wine 2016 $42

Our waitress gave a quick run-down of all the wines when she brought over our flights, so my notes are somewhat sketchy. She also spoke really quickly! However, I did glean that this rosé is a blend of merlot and I believe she said chardonnay. In any event, it is a very light dry rosé, so light that with your eyes closed you might think it was a sauvignon blanc, despite the faint strawberry aroma.

*Grandioso Rosé 2016 $54

This rosé spends a little time in oak, which you can slightly sense, and which gives this one a bit more complexity than the other. Again, it is very dry, with some nice fruit, and was good with the cheeses. But for my money, I’d rather have any Croteaux rosé.

The chardonnay is a pretty color.

Chardonnay 2015 $36

A chardonnay for those who think they don’t like chardonnays, according to the waitress, this is mostly steel fermented and is very light and dry, with citrus tastes and a smell of lemon grass. You could have it with seafood in a cream sauce.

*Perle Chardonnay 2015 $54

At this point in the tasting, we began to discuss the prices of the Wölffer wines and the fact that they have some of the few Long Island wines that are often rated in wine magazines. Perhaps, I theorized, if you charge a lot for something, people tend to think it must be superior. Our waitress had described this chard as her favorite, and I can see why. Though it is oaked, it is not too oaky or buttery, with a very distinctive aroma. We discuss the smell, and conclude that there’s a metallic edge to it. The taste reminds me of baked pear. It does not complement the cheeses.

The summer flight

Classic Red Blend 2014 $38

My husband insists that it smells like “wet paper,” as well as cherries, and I don’t disagree. He also opines that this blend of merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon has “all the requisite elements” of a red blend. It is on the dry side, with not much by way of tannins, and some nice fruit tastes. The waitress had mentioned that it was aged in both steel and oak, and that it might even be nice lightly chilled.

Now you know why there are horses on the labels.

*Fatalis Fatum Red Blend 2014 $58

A fairly classic Bordeaux-style blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot, this is my favorite of the day. Dry, with good tannins, it has lots of cherry and other dark fruit/berry tastes, though an almost non-existent finish. It evanesces! My tasting buddy notes that it is not as complex as a French Bordeaux can be, but it would stand up to a steak.

You can see that the pour is rather generous.

Caya Cabernet Franc 2014 $58

There’s something I can’t quite identify about the aroma of this one, but also prune plums and tobacco scents. There’s a bit of a tingle on the tongue when you start to drink it. It’s dry, with nice tannins, and lots of dark fruit taste. I think it would go well with grilled lamb chops.

*Christian’s Cuvée Merlot 2013 $110

Yes, you read that price right. This Long Island merlot, named for the founder of the Wölffer estate, is over $100 a bottle. It comes from the oldest vines on the estate, and, according to our waitress, Christian said it is a wine one should savor with one’s eyes closed, the better to focus on the taste. The fruit fly that flew into my glass seemed to like it…until it drowned and I fished it out. Not sure how they justify the price on what seemed to us a pretty typical Long Island merlot, with lots of cherry taste, which “doesn’t dance in my mouth,” according to my husband.

According to their web page, they use these juniper berries on the property to make their gin.

Reasons to visit: you’re on the South Fork and you want to visit a winery and sit outside and relax (but if you just want a tasting, I’d recommend Channing Daughters); the Fatalis Fatum Red Blend; the cheese tray.

We didn’t get to try any, but they also make ciders.

I think I wanted to try this just because the bottle is so pretty. But it wasn’t in the tasting.

The inside room also seems nice.

Resident cat

On the ferry heading home–how to get around the traffic on Route 27!

Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard: Wine (and Beer) on Tap July 19, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, Mirage, North Fork, Pink Satin, Riesing, White Satin, wine tasting July 21, 2017

http://www.baitinghollowfarmvineyard.com/

Though it looks like a Nineteenth Century farmhouse, most of the building is quite new.

Yes, a number of the wines here flow from a tap, and so does a selection of local beers. And if that doesn’t sound to you like a winery that is serious about its wines…it certainly felt that way to us. On the other hand, if you read the tasting notes on the reverse of the menu, it certainly seems as though someone cares about the juice of the grape. Then again, the youthful servers, while perfectly pleasant—and one of them was engagingly chatty—didn’t have much to say about the wines, needing to check some notes, for example, to tell us what percentages of various grapes went into a blend. And that seemed to suit the customers we saw just fine. Most of them appeared to be visiting Baiting Hollow as you would a convenient bar, ordering a couple of tastes or glasses to take to a table to have, perhaps, with a cheese tray.

The server is filling a beer or wine glass from the taps.

The tasting room, situated inside what looks like an old farm house (but is mostly not, as we remember passing by as it was being built), has a small bar but quite a few tables and seating areas, and there is also an extensive outdoor patio which looks like it can accommodate a large crowd. There’s also a barn on the property where they care for rescue horses. A portion of the proceeds from certain bottles of wine helps to fund this endeavor. The place also features an array of objets for sale.

Objets for sale.

The tasting menu offers one taste for $4, three for $9, four for $11, or six for $16. There are also three more expensive wines available for $5 per taste. We decided to share one tasting of six wines, as that would enable us to sample most of their offerings. It was a wise choice, for the pour was often quite generous. We took our time, happy to be in air conditioning and out of the July heat and humidity.

One view of the bar.

2015 White Satin $27.99

“I love this wine,” enthused our server. “It is very like a pinot grigio.” She was right, we decided, as we sipped this dry, minerally, and refreshing white blend (of what, we don’t know). The aroma was both floral and mineral. The wine also had a trace of a salty taste. It would be fine with raw oysters or clams.

2013 Riesling $26.99

Though both the menu and our server described this as “off dry,” we found it a bit too sweet. Though the aroma had the honeysuckle smell riesling often has—and no cat pee!—the taste was so light that, blindfolded, I’m not sure I would identify it as a riesling. I did detect some peach flavor. The mouth feel was interesting, however, as it was rather unctuous. (We decided to skip the chardonnay, as it is oaked.)

The Pink Satin looks very pretty on the zinc-topped bar.

2016 Pink Satin $22.99

Given the current rage for rosé, we thought we should try one of Baiting Hollow’s three rosés, and so asked our server which was the driest. She suggested Pink Satin, and it was a good choice. This could certainly be a summer sipper, “not too sweet and not too tart,” opined my husband. We then had a discussion of the aroma, which I insisted had notes of gasoline, as well as fruit and mineral. The taste made me think of macerated strawberries, and also of Croteaux 3. Good.

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2007 Merlot $26.99

With each taste, our server offered us a clean glass if we desired, so when we switched to reds we accepted her offer. This was one of the wines with extensive notes in the tasting menu, so we were particularly interested to try it. The aroma was nice, mostly cherry and chocolate. The wine itself, however, was very simple, with slight tannins and something unpleasant at the end. Maybe a woody taste? “It might be okay with food,” opined my tasting buddy, “but nothing too overpowering.” I agreed. The menu notes that this could “bottle age for countless years.” I would say, don’t count on it.

The horse which provided the name for the wine.

Mirage $27.99

This Bordeaux-style blend of 26% cabernet franc, 44% cabernet sauvignon, and 30% merlot is one of the wines the profit from which supports their horse rescue operation. As we admired it in the glass, we felt it had nice legs and a pretty color. The aroma was less promising, with only faint whiffs of cherry and tobacco. The taste was also unexceptional, though it is nicely dry, with some fruit tastes.

2013 Cabernet Franc $28.99

One thing we noticed was that the prices are all quite reasonable, with only a few of their premium wines over $30. This was our favorite red of the day, dry, with good tannins, and tastes of dark fruit. It would pair well with lamb chops. It also smells really good, like plums and other dark fruits. But we did feel as though it had a very short finish. “It evanesces,” I declared.

One part of the tasting house.

Reasons to visit: it’s the first winery you come to on Sound Avenue after you leave the Expressway, so it’s a convenient place to start or end a tasting tour; they have lots of entertainment (check the web site) and food options; beer on tap in case you’re traveling with a non-wine-drinker; reasonably priced wines; the White Satin, the Pink Satin, the Cabernet Franc; you can contribute to their horse rescue operation and possibly visit the horses. However, this is not a place to come if you are interested in serious conversations about wine!

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Just one part of the extensive outdoor patio area.

Just a few rules…

Castello di Borghese: A Perfect Pairing July 8, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet franc, Cabernet Franc Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Castello di Borghese, chardonnay, Founder's Field Sauvignon Blanc, Harvest Moon Shellfish Co., Merlot Reserve, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, North Fork, oysters, Pinot Noir Select, riesling, Rose Pinot Noir, wine tasting July 12, 2017

https://castellodiborghese.com/

The Harvest Moon Shellfish Company truck is a sign that you should stop by Castello di Borghese for some oysters and wine.

I headlined this entry “A Perfect Pairing,” thinking about the Harvest Moon oysters we had with the Borghese 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, but it could also apply to the couple we went there with—our son and daughter-in-law. We all enjoyed the oysters, which are on offer every weekend until October 1, for $28 a dozen, and the wine, which went perfectly with them. The oysters were small, but sweet and briny and creamy, and the lemon in the wine complemented them beautifully. It was a perfect July day, and we were happy to sit outside near the vines and enjoy our bottle of wine and plates of oysters. Unfortunately, they don’t do tastings outside, so we had to go in when we decided we wanted to do a tasting as well. (I also would urge the winery to install an attractive fence to screen the hose, etc., along the wall of the building.)

A view of the outside seating area.

When we went in to examine the tasting menu, we found two options: five Estate wines for $15, or five Reserve wines for $25. We decided each couple would share one of each, so we could taste most of their wines, though we did miss a few. Our server was enthusiastic and knowledgeable, happy to share both what he knew and what he liked about each wine. The tasting room is about medium in size, with a bar along one wall and barrels with tops one can stand around on the other, so if you want to sit for a tasting this is not your place. Also, they don’t allow outside food (at least at the moment, when they are featuring the oysters). This is a winery which takes its wine very seriously, and is happy when visitors do the same. After all, the Borgheses bought the vineyard from the Hargraves, who were the first to plant a vineyard on the North Fork, back in 1973. The Estate wines are marked with an *.

The expert shucker from Harvest Moon.

.* 2015 Chardonnay $18

A good place to begin a tasting is this steel fermented chardonnay which is so light and lemony you might mistake it for a sauvignon blanc. We smelled mineral and peach and toast aromas and one of us suggested it tasted like star fruit. Our daughter-in-law, who is thoughtful about food and wine pairings, thought it would go well with Greek food or a corn salad. We agreed.

2016 Founder’s Field Sauvignon Blanc $29

This is not the Sauvignon Blanc we had with our oysters—that one is cheaper and we actually liked it better. This one is fermented half in oak and half in steel. It is light and dry, with some citrus and melon tastes and a long finish. “Blue cheese,” we agreed, would go well with it.

.*2014 Riesling $26

Not unexpectedly, this smells like flowers and cat pee. Though our server described it as “off dry,” we all found it too sweet for our taste. Our son and daughter-in-law said it tasted just like “sweet lime,” which I’ve never had, but I trust their taste buds, and thought it could pair well with watermelon juice and tequila in a margarita-type cocktail.

2014 Pinot Noir Select $50

We switched to the reds on the Reserve list, as there were no other whites we wanted to try and they have quite a few reds. The aroma is nice, of dark fruits, and the taste is also pleasant, with some notes of black pepper as well as plums. It reminded us a bit of a Chianti, and so we thought it would go well with pasta.

.*Rosé Pinot Noir $20

At the urging of our server, our tasting companions sampled this rosé (we had been given a sip of another one as we were trying to choose a wine to go with our oysters). However, they were “not excited” about it. Steel fermented, this is an uncomplicated dry rosé, with a taste of macerated strawberry that, I said, “evanesces.” We then began to apply that word to all sorts of things.

2015 Merlot Reserve $36

We found lots of aromas in this one—spice, pomegranate, charred wood, prunes, and, believe it or not, barbequed chicken were some of our comments. So then of course we decided it would pair well with barbequed chicken, one with a fruity sauce. Nice finish.

.*2014 Cabernet Franc $35

Good one! With aromas of prune plum and cedar, and tastes of blueberry and spice, this one got us thinking of food pairings again. We thought lamb chops, and then our daughter-in-law offered flank steak with chimichurri sauce or spiced chick peas (for vegetarians). Also good ideas.

.*2015 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon $25

A Bordeaux-style blend of 53% merlot, 44% cabernet sauvignon, and 3% pinot noir, this is, according to our server, a very popular wine. We can see why. The aroma is earthy and herbal, with scents of chestnuts and fruit, and the taste is equally appealing, with lots of fruit, and just the right amount of dryness. Food pairing? How about spaghetti with mussels in a tomato sauce.

2014 Cabernet Franc Reserve $44

You can definitely smell that this was aged in oak, with its cedar/oak aroma, plus fruit, spice, and something funky like mushrooms. I decide it is mouth-watering. It has lots of flavor, with dark fruits, and would go well with duck.

2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $44

Our server now gets into the whole food pairing thing we’ve been doing, and suggests this would go well with “a porterhouse on the grill.” We talk it over, and once again our daughter-in-law has the perfect pairing idea—hamburger with truffle fries. One of us compares the aroma to “dusty closet.” Not sure about that. However, this is another pleasant red, with nice fruit, though not very complex.

The winery also has an art gallery.

The art in the gallery.

Reasons to visit: a place to get serious about wine; oysters from Harvest moon until October 1; the winery also has an art gallery where you can view and buy local art; the Sauvignon Blanc, the Pinot Noir Select, the Cabernet Franc, the Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, the Cabernet Franc Reserve.

Bedell Cellars: Artistic Elegance July 6, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting, Uncategorized and tagged with Albarino, ALure, Bedell Cellars, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, gallery, merlot, Museum of Modern Art, North Fork, sauvignon blanc, Sparkling Rose, Taste White, viognier, wine tasting July 8, 2017

https://www.bedellcellars.com/

The weather man was predicting rain, so we decided to take our guests to Bedell, rather than opt for a winery where we would sit outside. As it happened, the sun came out, but we did not regret our choice. Bedell has some lovely and interesting wines, and the most artistic labels on Long Island. As we’ve been told before by servers, the owner is on the board of the Museum of Modern Art, and he commissions labels from various modern artists. Given the prices on the wines, maybe they could include little reproductions of the artwork with the purchase of each bottle!

Each label is also a work of art.

The tasting room is small and simply elegant, with a high ceiling and a black and white color scheme. There is also a covered porch to one side. We settled down at a table for four and perused the flight menu—which didn’t take long, as they have simplified their options. Now there is only one choice—a flight of five wines for $20. Each couple opted to share a tasting, which worked out fine. They also have a small snack menu, with one unusual choice: an individual serving of North Fork honey. We had brought some mixed nuts, which helped us appreciate at least one of the wines, as you will see.

Their menu of snacks.

Sparkling Rosé 2016 $45

What a perfect way to start our tasting, especially since we were also celebrating my husband’s birthday. A pretty pink—“Nice color for a bridesmaid’s dress,” opined our friend—with an aroma of strawberries, this is made from a mixture of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet sauvignon. Unlike the sparkling white we had here last time, this is made by injecting CO2, not by the méthode champenoise. While not complex, the taste is delicious, crisp and dry and fruity. One of us threatened to drink a whole bottle…

Taste White 2015 $50

Our server informed us that this was the “wine of the month,” and was therefore on sale at half price. Noting the vintage, I opined that they wanted to clear out the stock to make space for a newer wine, as many whites are better drunk young, not aged. Both the blend of grapes and the aroma intrigued us. It is a combination of 65% albariño, plus chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and viognier, and is steel fermented. We kept sniffing and discussing the smell, which we described variously as mineral, burnt cork, funky, and garden mulch. The taste was equally complicated, with fruit, mineral, metal, and citrus notes. We liked it, but were wondering about food pairings, since it has an unusual flavor and would overwhelm something delicate, like sole. I’m thinking it might have gone well with the grilled swordfish topped with tomato relish my friend had later for dinner at ALure.

Gallery 2014 $75

That’s quite a price for a Long Island white, and though we enjoyed the wine we did not feel it was worth it. A combination of 65% chardonnay and 25% viognier aged in oak, plus 10% steel-fermented sauvignon blanc, we thought it was slightly reminiscent of a California chardonnay, though not as oaky. The taste was complex, with notes of citrus and salt and mineral and some butterscotch. We felt it was a bit too sweet, though I think that may have been the fruitiness rather than the sweetness. When we ate some nuts and then tasted it again, we liked it better, so it is definitely a food wine.

There are not many wineries where the wine labels could also double as art museum labels.

Merlot 2014 $35

We got clean glasses for the reds. Mmm, this smelled delicious, with lots of fruity, plummy, cherry aromas. It also tasted quite good, dry, but with lots of fruit and a bit of cinnamon or nutmeg. Nice tannins. It might age well. You could have this with steak and be quite happy. Or bison, which, as our server informed us, is what it was paired with in 2009 at a Presidential inauguration lunch.

Cabernet Franc 2014 $45

“This sends nine months in neutral oak,” our server told us, and we felt pretty neutral about the wine as well. Just okay, was my judgement. Definitely tasted red plums and other fruits in this dry red, but it was not as full-bodied as the merlot, which we all preferred.

One side of the bar.

A table, with a view out to the porch.

Reasons to visit: attractive tasting room and covered porch; the pretty labels; the Sparkling Rosé, the Taste White, and the Merlot. I also noted a trend I’ve seen in more and more tasting rooms—you can buy a bottle to drink there, but it will cost you more than if you buy a bottle to take home. $10 more in this case!

Jason’s Vineyard: No, It’s Not a Pirate Ship June 24, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Argo, Argonauts, cabernet sauvignon, Cayuga, chardonnay, Damianos, Dessert Wine, Golden Fleece, Hercules, Jason's Vineyard, Malbec, Meritage, merlot, North Fork, Pinot Blanc, Port, riesling, sauvignon blanc, seyval blanc, Vidal blanc, White Riesling, wine tasting June 26, 2017

http://www.jasonsvineyard.com/

Ancient Greek ships, like the Argo, had painted on eyes to help navigate.

The ship-shaped bar even has a mast and sail, and the ceiling is painted to look like the sky.

Anyone unfamiliar with Greek mythology could be forgiven for thinking, when they sighted the ship-shaped bar, complete with mast and furled sail, that it was supposed to resemble a pirate ship. However, the design of the bar—and of the ship on the wine labels—is meant to evoke the great ship the Argo, which set off with its crew of heroes, led by Jason, to find the Golden Fleece. Jason Damianos, the son of the owner of Pindar and Duck Walk, was clearly quite pleased with his namesake hero, and not only designed his bar to resemble the Argo but also named some of his wines after elements of the heroic voyage and opted to raise sheep (golden fleece, get it?) on his property. Sadly, Jason was killed two years ago in a car accident. However, the family has continued to own and run his vineyard and his small herd of sheep (plus at least one llama).

The llama–and the sheep, we were told–had all recently been shorn.

Jason’s is a fairly large facility, with an expansive outdoor covered porch where a singer was entertaining guests the day we came (but so loudly that we opted to stay inside). The servers keep track of your tasting by giving you a pile of tokens, taking one away each time they serve a taste. That works well for large groups, which they do welcome. The menu offers a flight of five wines for $10. Since they have thirteen different wines, we decided to do two tastings, one of whites and then another of reds, which we clarified with our server after a bit of discussion. As we thoughtfully considered each wine, our server became more and more enthusiastic about helping us, pouring a couple of “extras.” As a result, the only wines we did not try are the two rosés.

One view of the porch.

There were no signs about whether or not they allow outside food, so I assume they do. They also had a small selection of cheeses and crackers in a refrigerated case. By the way, I only have vintages for a few of the wines. The menu doesn’t mention them and neither did our server, who whisked most bottles away before I could check.

The winery building is quite attractive.

Golden Fleece $18.95

Apparently, this was a wine Jason meant to be his signature one, a blend of 41% chardonnay, 24% seyval blanc, 21% Cayuga, and 9% vidal blanc. Noting this unusual collection of grapes, we asked if any of them came from Upstate. Yes, said our server, she thought the Cayuga did, but wasn’t sure about the rest. However, according to the winery web page the Cayuga is actually grown locally. Tasting it, we were wondering whether this would be a collection of wines we would even want to taste, as it was much too sweet for us. The menu describes it as “crisp,” but it made me think of candied or canned pears in syrup. The aroma had combined minerality with floral and cat pee notes, so I was hoping the wine would be more interesting than it proved to be.

Sauvignon Blanc $24.95

I have to say that this had a rather unpleasant smell, like rotting garbage, but fortunately it tasted better than it smelled. That’s one of the aspects of wine that fascinates me—how the smell and the taste can be so different. Anyway, this one WAS crisp, and rather nice, dry, with tastes of lemon and mineral. It would pair well with oysters.

Pinot Blanc $34.95

We liked this one, too. The smell combined a funky, forest-floor element with a metallic scent, and the taste had lots of citrus. I was thinking blood orange, with end notes of pineapple, and found it mouth-watering. It would complement spicy food nicely, like maybe a shrimp fra diavolo.

Chardonnay $29.95

In general, I’m not a fan of oaked chardonnays, and this one did not convert me, though it was not too heavily oaked. As my tasting buddy said, “It’s neither here nor there.” Aromas of vanilla and almonds, tastes of butterscotch and lemon, and a rather thin mouth feel. Our server informed us that this was the last of the 2012 vintage, on sale for only $12.95 a bottle, or $100 a case. A good buy, but not enough to tempt us.

The servers use these tokens to keep track of how many tastes you get.

White Riesling $27.95

What, we wondered, is a white riesling? Aren’t all rieslings white? Our usual server was occupied elsewhere, and the cheerful young lady who poured this one for us had no idea why this one was labeled “white.” In any event, we dumped most of the glass, as it was unpleasantly sweet.

2006 Merlot $26.95

The servers rinse your glass with water between tastes, which is nice—except when they don’t dump out all the water. This is a pretty typical North Fork merlot, with scents of cherry, wood, and tobacco and a taste of cherry, though with a somewhat bitter finish.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon $12.95

The cabernet sauvignon is aged 24 months in new French oak, “unfined and unfiltered,” according to the menu. Though the aroma is lovely, of black cherry and dark chocolate, the taste is disappointing. My husband characterizes it as a pizza wine, though I would prefer a nice Chianti. We think it is at the end of its useful life, and so must the winery, since this is also on sale for $100 a case.

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon $25

This is our first “extra.” Our server suggests we compare it to the 05, and is interested to see what we think of it. Much better! The aroma has hints of something spicy, like maybe A-1 sauce, and the wine is dry, with lots of tannins, and a taste that reminds me of a dried fruit compote.

Hercules…and…

Hercules! The wine is named for this cute pooch.

Hercules $28.95

According to the menu, this is a unique wine, a “late harvest blend of merlot and cabernet.” “Late harvest” would imply great ripeness and sweetness, and the label calls it a “sweet red.” However, it is not as sweet as we were afraid it would be, and we actually liked it. I said it was sweet on top and tart on the bottom, which I know makes no sense, but that was what I felt. We agreed we’d love to try it with a nice piece of chocolate cake. Hercules, by the way, is named not just for the great hero who went on the Argo (in addition to his famous twelve labors), but also for Jason Damianos’s dog. Check out the photo…

Meritage $28.95

Meritage is the North Fork’s version of Bordeaux wines, a blend in this case of merlot, cabernet, malbec, and pinot noir. Very nice—not surprising, since Jason studied wine-making in France. It smells pleasantly of sweet dark fruits, and tastes like cherries, other fruits, and some pepper.

2010 Malbec $28.95

As my Grandma Ruthie would say, “This one beats the bunch.” Definitely the star of the day, this has a delicious aroma of dark fruit, plums, and chocolate and tastes quite fruity as well, while still being dry. If we had decided to sit on the porch and listen to the singer, this is the wine I would have chosen to have in my glass.

Dessert Wine $28.95

Yes, that is what it is called on the menu. Our server offers us this “on me,” she says, having enjoyed serving people who are interested in the wine and not just in “getting drunk.” Thanks! At 19.5% alcohol, this is definitely an after-dinner drink, really a Port wine, with its sweetness balanced by dryness. Quite yummy, it would be pleasant to sip this while cracking walnuts and almonds.

Some snacks are available for purchase.

Reasons to visit: fun to see the bar shaped like a ship; the pinot blanc and the malbec; the Hercules and the Dessert Wine are good if you’re looking for an after-dinner sweet sipper; you can see—but not feed—the sheep and the llama.

A portrait of Jason Damianos hangs on the wall. We met him a number of years ago, before he opened the winery, at a shop on Love Lane. We got into a discussion and he told us how excited he was to open his own winery. Nice guy. We were sad to hear he had died.

Croteaux Vineyards: Easy to Drink Rosés June 9, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with artichoke tapenade, case club, Chloe Sauvignon Blanc, Chloe Sparkle, Croteaux Vinyards, Cuvee Sparkle, Jolie Cabernet Franc, Jolie Sparkle, Merlot 181, merlot 3, Merlot 341, North Fork, oysters, rose, Sauvage 181, wine tasting June 11, 2017

http://www.croteaux.com/

The very first time we went to Croteaux we fell in love with the beautiful garden and its comfortable seats and the refreshing, easy to drink rosé wines. In fact, we liked them so much that we bought a case, and then discovered we had joined their “case club.” Now it’s our favorite wine club as well, and we start every summer season by buying a case. In addition to the reduction in price that is pretty standard at any winery for buying a case, you can also come to the winery and have a free tasting. Then, several times a year, they invite you to special events. The most recent one included oysters and glasses of rosé, with apparently no limit on either. Oh my.

The view from our table out to the vineyard.

However, I don’t recommend going to Croteaux unless the weather is right for sitting outside, since their inside accommodations are not nearly as nice as the outside ones. Fortunately, June finally brought us a beautiful sunny day, with a slight breeze making the weather perfect for visiting the garden. We decided to sample all their wares, and so had a tasting of their six still rosés, for $15, and their three sparkling rosés, also $15. Feeling the need for a little snack, we ordered the artichoke tapenade with croutons (French bread toasted and brushed with garlic, herbs, and olive oil) for $10. In the past, we’ve had their goat cheese basket and the roasted nuts, both of which are good. The artichoke tapenade was quite nice, a combination of artichoke, olives, lemon, and herbs. The baskets all came garnished with a sprig of mint “from the owners’ garden. The mint went crazy so they decided to add it to all the baskets,” explained our lovely server. (They have a sign saying no outside food.) One other note—they allow dogs on the leash, and every time we’ve come we’ve seen at least one or two canine visitors.

Today’s pooch is in the background of this photo. Note the nice comfy Adirondack chairs.

Merlot 181 Rosé $19

The particular clone of merlot is what gives this wine and the next two their names. This is, as you would expect for the first taste, their lightest rosé, almost white in color, with a slight mineral aroma and a tart citrusy taste and a slightly sweet finish. “You could drink a lot of this and never notice—until you fell over,” opined my tasting pal. When we came for the oysters this was one of the wines we had, and it went very well with them.

Our first three tastes. Note the differences in color!

Merlot 314 Rosé $19

Our favorite this year—we bought a case of it—this one has more character than the 181, with a slight chemical aroma and a tart taste that combines strawberries and citrus. My husband adds that he tastes a bit of pear, too. It would work well to sip on its own, nicely chilled, and would also go well with lots of different foods.

Merlot 3 $19

A blend of 181, 314, and 3, this one reminds us more of a white wine than a rosé, with lots of tart citrusy tastes. Sort of like a sauvignon blanc, but without the pineapple tastes that wine often has. The color is a pretty pink, and the smell has a bit of something funky as well as minerality.

The second three of the still wines. A coaster under each glass identifies the wine.

Sauvage 181 Rosé $24

“Sauvage” is French for wild, as this wine is made with wild yeasts, which means it can vary quite a bit from year to year. This year is a winner. More interesting than your average rosé, this is mouth-watering (which I insist means it has some tannins), with a taste that combines fruit salad and lime and an aroma of pineapple and guava. If we had decided to get the newest item on their menu—mini lobster rolls from American Beech—I would have gotten a glass of this to go with it. Well, the summer is just getting started. We may have to come back…

Chloe Sauvignon Blanc Rosé $24

The menu describes this as a “white wine lover’s rosé,” and I can see why. Made with sauvignon blanc plus a little cabernet franc (“for color”), this is another yummy wine, with aromas of pine forest and citrus plus peach tastes. Delicate, it would be fine to sip on its own, or paired with a light white fish like sole.

Jolie Cabernet Franc Rosé $24

Described as a French Bordeaux, “for red wine lovers,” this is my least favorite of the day. It’s the sweetest of the rosés, though there is some minerality to balance the sweetness, with a red candy aroma. We get the tapenade as we’re still sampling this, and I like it better with food.

Tapenade.

Cuvée Sparkle $29

Now we move on to the sparkling wines, which come in tall slim glasses, held in a metal carrier. I would put all three of them in the “fun” wine category, as they are not overly expensive for sparkling wines and are all easy to drink. The first is a blend of their three merlot clones and smells like them, of minerals with a bit of strawberry. Tart and refreshing and very bubbly, this is a sparkler I would choose, though my husband notes that not everyone would like it. If you are looking for a sweet rosé sparkler, this would not be for you.

The bubblies. We had already tried the first one before I remembered to snap a photo.

Chloe Sparkle $29

Like the still Chloe, this is made from sauvignon blanc and cabernet franc grapes, and is quite different from the Cuvée. The aroma has, in addition to the expected smells, something vegetal about it, maybe a cruciferous veggie. The taste is more complex than the Cuvée, a touch sweeter, and would go perfectly with a tray of charcuterie.

Jolie means pretty, and indeed this is a pretty color.

Jolie Sparkle $29

Pretty color! More like what people expect from a rosé sparkler, this is the sweetest wine of the day, so you should not be surprised to hear that I didn’t care for it. However, my tasting partner thinks “people would like it.” The aroma combines red candy, strawberry, and a funky forest smell. I compare the taste to watermelon.

Reasons to visit: the garden!!!; the only winery that only makes rosés; the best rosés on the North Fork, especially the 314, the Sauvage 181, and the Chloe Sparkle; prices; good snacks; the garden, the garden, the garden.

Roses and then rosés .

NoFo Wineaux

Wine notes from Long Island's North Fork

Category Archives: Tasting