Paumanok Vineyards: Lunch Again!

October 19, 2023

I love the barn-like aesthetic of so many of the vineyards on the North Fork.

We enjoyed our lunch at Jamesport Vineyards so much, we decided to head a little further down the road and do it again at Paumanok.  We hadn’t been there since before the pandemic, so it was definitely time to go back.  We were planning to sit outside on their pleasant wooden deck, but just as we got there the sun hid behind some clouds and a breeze made us shiver.  Of course, shortly after we were settled inside the sun came back out—it was that kind of a if-you-don’t-like-the-weather-wait-five-minutes day—but we were happy with our table by the large windows.

That’s our waiter Rob out on the deck.
The tables were pre-set with glassware and seasonal flora.

We were shown to our seat by a pleasant young woman, who also provided us with a bottle of chilled water.  The tables were all already set, with sets of four glasses for tastings and larger glasses for the water, plus very attractive seasonal arrangements of gourds, etc.  We perused the menus, one for wine and another for food, and decided to share a Winemaker Flight, of two whites and two reds for $22, and get the Cheese and Charcuterie Board for $35. 

Our flight arrived about ten or fifteen minutes before our lunch, so we had plenty of time to sample all the wines before starting on the bountiful tray of food.  That meant that we knew which wines we liked the best, and then had the chance to decide which went best with the snacks.

We found the pour generous enough that it was easy to share.

The board was ample, enough for at least four people, and we ended up taking home many crackers (including some very tasty gluten-free ones), half the little loaf of bread—which arrived warm, a nice touch—most of the olives and cornichons, some cheese, and a couple of slices of prosciutto and salami.  We enjoyed the brie the most, as the other cheeses were…undistinguished, but overall we were happy with the food.  Another time, I might think about ordering a la carte, though that might end by costing more.  It is nice that they use compostable bamboo utensils and plates, though those knives and forks, unfortunately, don’t work very well.  By the way, they don’t allow outside food, and dogs are only permitted during the week.  I guess they figure it gets too busy on weekends to allow for dogs.

Lots of yummy stuff!

Our waiter, Rob, checked back with us at proper intervals, and shared his knowledge of and enthusiasm for the wines, which enhanced our experience.

  •  2022 Chenin Blanc          $32

“Multi-dimensional,” opined my tasting buddy, as we enjoyed our first sips.  The aroma reminds me of white grape juice, and the flavor mixes sweet and tart, with notes of ripe pineapple.  Very good, we decide, and move on to our next wine, leaving about half the glass to consume with our cheese and charcuterie.

The bar featured a nice award they won.
  • 2021 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay          $32

I was a bit concerned about this, as I often dislike oaked chardonnays, but Rob assures us that this is aged in neutral, or used, oak barrels for only six months, so it is not too oaky.  He’s right, and we find this pleasantly smooth, “fruit forward,” according to my pal, who has been reading Wine Spectator.  I think it has a taste that is a nice balance between steel and barrel fermented chards.  It also goes the best with our lunch.  I used to think that charcuterie, being meat, should be paired with reds, but now I prefer whites.

  • 2020 Merlot       $36

There are so many versions of merlot on the North Fork that there is surely one for every taste.  This one has aromas of cherry and oak shavings, but does not have much fruit taste.  I say it is rather light, and my husband says, “It’s kind of quiet,” which I think is apt.

The Massoud family photo, behind which you can see into the winemaking area.
  • 2021 Cabernet Franc       $36

We prefer the cab franc, which, though it is also light, with soft tannins, has more interesting fruit flavors and a longer finish.  I think it also goes better with the cheese than the merlot. By the way, we felt the pour was more than adequate for sharing the flight.

Reasons to visit:  pleasant deck and tasting room; good service; the chenin blanc, though all the wines were drinkable; a pricey but bountiful cheese and charcuterie board; dogs allowed during the week.

The grapes have been harvested. It was a day of alternating sun and clouds.

Jamesport Vineyards:  Pizza and Wine Again

October 5, 2023

Our wait was very brief.

We were discussing the possibility of going to do a tasting while examining the refrigerator for lunch ideas, when it hit us—why not combine lunch and a tasting?  A quick check of the Internet confirmed that Jamesport Vineyards offers their “wood fired” pizza on Thursdays, and in fact they have a Thursday special, of a Margherita pie and a bottle of any of their East End label wines for $45.  So we slathered on some sun screen (not really needed, as the patio is amply shaded), put on our shoes, and headed out.

This was a perfect day for sitting outside, but I don’t know how many more of these we will have this year.

We were quickly greeted at the entrance and escorted to a table on the pretty patio, which looks out on beds of flowers, a lawn, and groupings of tables and chairs.  A number of other couples must have had the same idea, because bottles or flights of wine and pizzas appeared on most tables.  Glasses of ice water, a welcome amenity on this warm afternoon, were set on our table as we perused the menus. 

The wine menu offered three tastings, one of all whites, one all reds, and a mixed flight, of four wines for $27, which we decided to order.  There are 16 wines on the list, all available as a glass or a bottle.  Then we turned the menu over to check out the food offerings, which are quite extensive, from snack-type items like olives and cheeses to real meals, including a lobster roll.  But the main attraction is the pizzas, of which seven varieties are listed.  We decided to get the “Larry,” for $26, which features house-made mozzarella and house-made hot Italian sausage, plus tomato sauce, onions, roasted red peppers, chili oil, and fresh oregano.  It arrived at our table hot from the oven, appropriately singed at the edge, and delicious.  It is worth going there for a glass of wine and a lunch pizza any time.  The menu says one pie serves two, but we took home enough to reheat (in the oven, please, not the microwave) for dinner.  One downer: the plastic knife is totally inadequate to cut the pizza (I know, I do the NYC fold to eat mine, but my tasting buddy prefers to knife and fork his.). 

The pizza is divided into six slices, and we found one each to be enough for lunch.

Another note: no children allowed on the weekends, and no dogs except service dogs at any time.

Our waitress brought out the bottles and poured a generous amount for each taste, giving a brief spiel to describe each wine.  As we sipped and munched, we discussed what an asset wineries like this are to the North Fork.

  •  2022 Estate Albariño      $38

I am generally fond of albariños, and often order one when getting wine by the glass in restaurants.  I wish more North Fork wineries used this grape.  They tend to be crisp, with nice fruit tastes of pineapple and guava, with some notes of lemon, and this one is no exception.  The waitress says she smells banana, which we debate after she leaves.  Maybe a very ripe banana?  Very good.  I’d buy a bottle, but I think I can get it for less at Vintage, our local liquor store.

  • 2019 Estate Riesling         $35

Happily, this is not a sweet riesling, as I tend not to like sweet wines (except for dessert).  It has very little aroma, and is dry, with lots of minerality.  It is not at all fruity, but I find it has an edge to it I don’t care for.  I let my husband drink most of it.

The “East End” wines have screw caps, which I have to admit I am coming to prefer.
  • 2022 East End Rosé         $38

On the other hand, I like this rosé better than he does.  It is crisp and dry, with a touch of fizz.  It’s not very fruity, but goes well with the pizza.  It is definitely a food wine, not a sipper.

  • 2020 Estate Cabernet Franc         $36

“What I smell,” says my seasonally allergy afflicted pal, “smells good.”  I agree, and note aromas of cherry and other dark fruits plus tobacco.  The taste, however, is a little disappointing, as it is a very light red, with no depth.  But it goes the best with the pizza, and is certainly pleasant to drink.  “Not bad,” opines my fellow taster.

No surprise, no one wanted to sit inside on this beautiful day.

Reasons to visit:  beautiful outdoor setting, with lawn and flower gardens; menu of real foods, particularly the pizzas; the albariño and the rosé; excellent service; laid-back vibe (at least on a weekday).

You can see into the wine-making area from the tasting room.

Meadowlark:  Pizza Night!

September 8, 2023

Just one part of the capacious grounds.

It had been hot all day, but by 5 o’clock it had cooled off enough to sit outside, which we were glad to notice, since that had been our plan.  With our friends the winery aficionados, we headed to Meadowlark for pizza night.  The last time we had been to that property, many years ago, it had belonged to a different winery.  Then Macari took it over, at first running it as simply a second location for tastings, but now they had rebranded it as a somewhat different type of winery.  The emphasis here is on a few wines not available at Macari, as their website says, “limited wines, and innovative winemaking techniques available only at the Meadowlark property.”  In addition, they promote the property as an ideal place for weddings and other events, with two renovated barn-like buildings and extensive beautifully landscaped lawns and gardens.  It is only open to the public Friday afternoons, Saturdays, and Sundays. 

Have rolling pizza oven, will bake!
The comfortable table where we settled in for our evening.

We pulled into the parking lot and strolled up a slight rise to where a pizza oven roared, and then checked out one building, where an oyster bar offered freshly shucked oysters, and then the wine bar, before settling at a table on the deck outside the wine bar.  Music from speakers in the shrubbery included a few Grateful Dead songs.  Inside the wine bar, we acquired four glasses of wine from the limited menu of seven, deciding on two glasses of malbec, one of cabernet franc, and one of a grüner veltliner pet-nat (No flights on Friday nights.). 

Then we ambled over to the pizza oven, operated by pizza makers from The Rolling Gold, a shop with a “brick and mortar” site in Huntington.  There were five pies on offer, and we decided on one Margherita ($18) and one White ($20).  They gave us a buzzer, and only a few sips of wine later the buzzer went off. 

The pizzas were tasty, the Margherita with a fresh-tasting red sauce and fresh mozzarella, the white with plenty of garlic and melty stracciatella cheese, the crust appropriately slightly charred.  We thought there’d be leftovers, but we only took home one slice.  We had the patio to ourselves, though there were plenty of couples and small groups scattered over the lawns, and we sat and chatted until it began to get dark. 

Yummy pies. However, we would have liked it if plates were included, instead of just napkins.

Only a few notes on the wines:

  •  Grüner Veltliner Pét-Nat 2022                   $35

I’ve never seen a grüner veltliner made into a sparkling wine, so that’s something new to me.  I didn’t get to taste it, but one friend quite enjoyed it.  Meadowlark’s tasting notes describe it as “fresh” and “lively.”

Though it had cooled off enough to make sitting outside pleasant, it was still quite humid, as you can see by the condensation on this glass.
  • 2020 Malbec      $50

Our friend and I both chose this as a good red to go with a pizza, and it was.  Dry and pleasant, with more tannins than fruit, it was a very nice wine, though not a $50 bottle.  We discussed value versus price for a while, since, we agreed, it is perfectly possible to enjoy wines that are not all that expensive, though great wines are something special.

  • Cabernet Franc “Life Force” 2020              $30

“Life Force” is the way Macari characterizes the wines they make using a concrete “egg” for aging.  Their Life Force Sauvignon Blanc is one of my favorites of their wines.  This red is rather light, with tastes of red fruit and herbs.  It also went well with the pizza, and my husband was happy with this choice.

Those are oysters in the “boat.”

Reasons to visit:  excellent pizzas; relaxed, laid-back vibe on a Friday night; beautiful grounds; dogs allowed; some interesting wines to try.  I may go back some time on a Saturday or Sunday so I can try a flight, which they serve in test tubes (!). 

The staff was busy prepping these “test tubes” for Saturday’s wine tastings.

Old Field Vineyards: A Family Affair

September 2, 2023

Why do I title this “A Family Affair”?  Two reasons:  I went there with a number of family members, and the winery is very emphatically family owned.  Perry, who greeted us cheerfully at the sign-in desk, and her mother are the winemakers and owners.  In addition, this is a good place to come with a family, as there is room for children to roam about the lawn and they can buy a little container of mealworms to feed the chickens.  In fact, Perry started our visit by warning us that someone had left the door to the chicken coop open, and they were wandering the lawn, just in case any member of our party had chicken-phobia (Well, she didn’t quite put it that way.)  Sounds more like a feature than a cause for a warning, I replied.

This visit to Old Field, while still having that laid-back vibe, felt somewhat different.  First of all, there were many more people there than I have seen in the past, though that could be due to it being Saturday of Labor Day weekend.  Then, instead of moseying over to the deck and sitting at a calico-tableclothed table, we ordered at the sign-in desk and were directed to find a table on the lawn, and told our flights would be brought to us.  We picked up two bags of popcorn for the little ones and a small container of meal worms ($1 each) for the chickens. By the way, they still allow visitors to bring their own picnics, just requesting that one clean up after oneself.

After a very short wait, during which the youngsters in our group, accompanied by their mother, walked over to the icehouse and the little pond, our flights were set down on the table.  The tasting menu offered four options: four whites, four reds ($20), the everyday mixed flight of five wines ($24), or the special occasion mixed flight of five wines ($30).  We decided that each couple would share one of the mixed flights, so that in all we tasted ten wines.  The flights were served on a tray, in compostable plastic cups, with glasses for each of us, which made sharing easy and hygienic.  As we sipped and chatted, a curious chicken stopped by our table to check if we had any snacks, but we were not planning to share our popcorn, and the children had already fed the mealworms to some other fowl.

At the end of your tasting, you walk back past the sign-in desk, where you can pay and also get any bottles to take home.

One view of the capacious lawn. We are headed to the blue table, with its comfortable chairs.

The following notes are in more or less the order in which I tasted the wines, so you might want to refer to the menu to see which wine was in which flight.

Our two flights, with the glasses for each individual.
  •  Sparkling Brut   $50

Good, but not $50 good was the group assessment of this very nice, dry, yeasty sparkling wine, which started off the special occasion mixed flight.

  •  2021 Cracklin’ Rosé        $23  

Made from 100% merlot, this is an unusual rosé, with not much fruit and a slightly funky undertone, with some cherry taste.  This was the first wine in the everyday mixed flight.

Though these cups look like plastic, they are actually corn-based and can be composted.
  • 2018 Steel and Oak Chardonnay                $26

This is made from a combination of steel-aged and oak fermented chardonnay. The leftovers? joked my husband.  For a combined wine, this is surprisingly simple, noted one guest.  It is pleasant, but a bit oakier than I like.  It has some citrus taste but also a bit of that I chewed on my pencil flavor.

This is the one we brought home.
  • 2022 Winsome White     $18

A blend of 50% chardonnay, 35% sauvignon blanc, and 15% grüner veltliner, this very winsome white has a touch of effervescence and some lovely peach flavor.  We like it so much that we buy two bottles at checkout.

  • 2022 White Pinot Noir    $25

Another winner.  Our guests like this the best of their tasting, and find it delicious, with tastes of pears and honey and some depth.  We discuss how one makes white wine with red wine grapes with the children, who understand that if you take off the skins right away, you get white wine. 

  • 2020 Steel Chardonnay                  $22

Not my favorite of the day, as it has a somewhat metallic taste and some earthiness.  It is light and dry. 

  • 2019 Commodore Perry Merlot                 $40

What’s Commodore Perry’s name doing on a North Fork wine?  The famous seafarer, who opened up Japan to Western trade, is an ancestor of the owners of the winery, and this 100% merlot is named in his honor.  Aged in French oak, it is quite tannic, with tastes of black cherry and tobacco.  I could see aging it.

  • 2021 Dashing Duck          $22

A light red, we all agree, which would go well with roast chicken.  Then we get into a discussion of the “red-feathered” chickens raised by 8 Hands Farm, as opposed to the “rouge” chickens our guests get in a Queens green market.  “In Jackson Heights, we say ‘rouge,’” jokes a guest, in a mock-haughty accent.  In any event, this wine has a lovely aroma and tastes of cherry and cranberry, with “some brio,” notes a guest.

  • 2020 Maritime $35

“Oh, that is chewy,” says the same guest, reading the notes while sipping this Bordeaux blend of 33% merlot, 33% cabernet franc, 20% malbec, and 14% petit verdot.  Very tasty, with blackberry and other dark fruit flavors. 

Is this chicken annoyed because we won’t share our snack or because we’re drinking Rooster Tail?
  • 2020 Rooster Tail             $25

We have in the past bought this wine by the case, and we actually have a bottle in our wine cellar at the moment, brought to us by a dinner guest.  A blend of 67% merlot and 33% cabernet franc, this is a good everyday pizza and pasta red, with some cherry and spice tastes. 

Reasons to visit:  the bucolic, laid-back vibe; chickens!; you can bring a picnic and children (but not dogs, I think the chickens would object); we liked almost all the wines, but particularly the Winsome White, the White Pinot Noir, the Commodore Perry merlot, the Maritime, and the Rooster Tail; it is close to Greenport’s restaurants and shops.

Coffee Pot Cellars: Learn Something New

August 21, 2023

What a winning combination–prize winning wine and prize-winning jam.

I’ve learned so much over the years of going to wineries, from the differences between steel-fermented chardonnay and barrel-fermented chardonnay to how varied wines made from the same grape on the same terroir can taste.  I’ve also learned a lot from my visits to Coffee Pot Cellars—about wine, yes, but also about all sorts of other topics, from bees to butterflies.  Why?  Because Laura Klahr, who owns Coffee Pot with her husband, Adam Suprenant, is always happy to share her latest enthusiasms with visitors.  Her cheery, chatty personality is part of what makes a visit to this tiny winery fun.

Laura and Anna, with half of the monarch image painted on the wall behind them. Visitors are welcome to pose as butterflies.

On this visit, we learned about Sphinx moths, the part moths play in pollination, and about how certain caterpillars fluoresce under black light.  This fall, said Laura, I want to put black lights in the broom closet and have a rave with caterpillars.  We also admired the “snail art” hanging on the wall, art produced by snails crawling over paper.  Though she no longer raises bees and makes honey, she does make jam, which has won prizes, as have the wines.  The 2015 merlot won best merlot in New York State.  We tried the 2016, and it wouldn’t surprise me if it won awards, too.

The name Coffee Pot comes from the North Fork lighthouse, which is shaped like a coffee pot.

Now that Adam has retired from being the winemaker at Osprey’s Dominion, he has more time to devote to Coffee Pot, and they now have seven wines, all of which one can taste for $21.  As we sipped, we also chatted about her new dog, Anna, a black pug who has, not replaced, but fills the role, of Beasley, also a black pug, who gave his name to a red blend.  Anna is featured on their Facebook page, in a very cute little video, wearing a tutu. 

On a technical note, they source their grapes from Mccullough’s vineyard, and use the facilities at Lenz for fermentation. 

  •  2020 Sauvignon Blanc                  $23.99

Fermented in steel for six months, this is exactly what you want a sauvignon blanc to be—light, lemony, with some nice fruit tastes and a lovely floral aroma.

  • Chardonnay                        $17.99

You might notice the lack of a vintage year.  That is because this white is a blend of the 2016 barrel-fermented chard and the 2022 steel fermented.  I’m not a fan of barrel-fermented chards, especially if they are very oaky and buttery.  This is not, though it still has some of that woody taste I don’t care for.  However, the wine is quite drinkable, and is a good compromise between the two styles of chard, with some nice lemon and pear notes.

  • 2022 Rosé           $17.99

While we were at Coffee Pot, a couple came in and bought two bottles of this rosé, plus several jars of jam.  I can see why, as this is a lovely example of rosé, with strawberry and cherry tastes and aromas.  It’s made from a combination of merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes. We buy a bottle to take home.

  • 2016 Merlot                      $17.99

Buy a bottle of merlot, help save a monarch butterfly.  How?  For every bottle of merlot bought, Blossom Meadow farm plants a milkweed plant, essential nutrition for monarch caterpillars.  In addition, this is a very good merlot, with the typical North Fork cherry taste and aroma.  It has some tannins, and could probably even age a bit, but we buy two bottles for current consumption.

There’s Beasley, standing on the lighthouse.
  • 2017 Beasley’s Blend       $23.99

Gone, but not forgotten, Beasley will continue to give his name to this Bordeaux-style blend, of 52% cabernet franc, 40% merlot, and 8% petit verdot.  Anna can’t give her name to a wine yet, Laura explained, because she is not old enough to drink!  This iteration is a new release, with enough tannins that I think it could age quite a few years yet.  There’s a touch of funky forest floor in the aroma, which also has lots of dark fruit notes.  It also has some delicious brambly dark fruit tastes.

  • 2019 Cabernet Franc       $29.99

Here’s where I learned something about wine.  Adam, says Laura, asserts that every wine tells a story, with a beginning, a middle, and an end.  He felt this cab franc had a rather “flabby” middle, so he added 12% merlot to give it more structure.  I’d say he built a fine structure, as this is a red strong enough to stand up to a steak.  Yummy tastes of blackberries, and more.

Half of the room, with snail art on the wall. The stools are not very comfortable.
  • 2017 Meritage                  $28.99

Another delicious red!  This one is 70% merlot, 20% petit verdot, and 10% cabernet sauvignon, with a distinct cherry aroma from the merlot, but more complex tastes from the other two grapes.  Mouth-watering, my husband and I agree.

Reasons to visit:  intimate tasting room where you can talk with Laura and/or Adam (Laura told us that Monday is usually Adam’s day) and meet little Anna; all seven of their wines, but especially the rosé, the merlot, and the cabernet franc; the possibility of learning something new from Laura.  One note: the bar stools are still not comfortable, though they do have tables on the front porch and out back with better seating. 

One can sit in the yard, but then one wouldn’t get to chat with Laura.

Channing Daughters: Back to the South Fork

August 16, 2023

A fun way to go between the Forks is by ferry. We went overland there and ferry back.

It had been two years since we’d made the trek from the North Fork to the South Fork, and our neighbors were interested in checking out Channing Daughters, which they had been to many years ago, so off we went.  Because our friends were driving, I had the leisure to look around, and make note of the changes along the route.  One change I noticed was that some farm stands which had been small and rustic were now much bigger, with play areas for visiting children.  But one of our favorites, on Scuttlehole Road, seemed to be out of business.  After our tasting, we drove around Redwood Island, with which I used to be very familiar, and took note of many McMansions which had replaced more modest houses.

The cozy tasting room.
Channing’s dramatic sculptures still decorate the grounds.

Even Channing had made some changes:  they now have a tent furnished with picnic tables in which to have a tasting, instead of standing inside at the bar.  They also offer a menu of snacks (about which more later), so no longer allow outside food.  But one change we thought they had made turned out not to be theirs—a large structure being built to the east of the vineyard was not, as we guessed, a hotel or new tasting room, but a private home.  Sag Harbor is no longer the “un-Hampton.”

The path to the tasting tent.

As we perused the menu of eight (!) possible flights, of five wines each, we discussed the amazing variety of wines on offer at Channing, including one flight of vermouths.  It can be a bit intimidating, but we soon settled on our preferences.  Our friends opted for the red flight, as it was slightly chilly when the sun went behind the clouds, and we decided to do the Spectrum flight, as offering a…um…spectrum of choices—a white, a rosé, an orange, a red, and a sparkler.  If you are not in the wine club, a flight costs $28 and a glass $18. 

Since it was lunch time, we perused the snack menu, and decided on a “Three Cheese Sampler” from Mecox Dairy, for $20.  I have to say, I think the three wedges of almost identical cheeses were rather over-priced.  We also got a $6 sleeve of gluten-free crackers, which our server suggested as giving you the largest number of crackers, and a $12 package of salami (which worked out to over a dollar per slice).  I think they need to improve the snack menu and prices.  What is nice is they use bamboo plates and utensils, which are eco-friendly.

The three cheeses from Mecox Dairy looked and tasted very similar. We did appreciate the use of bamboo plates, which are eco-friendly.

Our flights arrived at the table in dramatic-looking gizmos which stacked the glasses vertically, a clever way to save table space, topped with little explanatory cards.  Work from top to bottom, we were told. After we finished our tasting, I explained to our server that we’d like an additional glass of wine, but I liked unoaked chardonnays, and our friend likes whites which have undergone malolactic fermentation.  Cleverly, our server split the serving, bringing me Scuttlehole Chardonnay and our friend two glasses with small servings of L’Enfant Sauvage, 2016 and 2017.  Then, after further discussion, two samples of Cuvée Topicale appeared, which ended up being the unanimous favorite wine of the day.  I bought two bottles, plus two pinot grigios, and two Scuttleholes, to round out the case of wine club selections.

The Spectrum flight, with its spectrum of colors.

What follows is a few notes on our tastings, alternating between my and my husband’s flight and then from our friends’ flight.

  •  2021 Heart White           $20

The “Heart” wines—there’s also a red—are blends, with labels designed by local artists around the theme of hearts.  This iteration blends (in typical Channing Daughters over the top fashion) 29% muscat ottonel, 21% chardonnay, 20% pinot grigio, 18% tocai friulano, 6% gewürztraminer, 5% pinot bianco, and 1% malvasia.  Whew.  It is a light, dry, easy to drink white, with tastes of citrus and pineapple and other tropical fruits.

The reds.
  • 2020 Rosso Fresco           $24

This is billed as a light red, and it is.  A blend of 56% merlot, 20% syrah, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 7% dornfelder, 1% blaufrankisch, and 1% teroldego, it has tastes of black cherry and other dark fruits.  Our friend notes he does not get the peppery edge one might get with a cabernet sauvignon, but finds it a pleasant wine.  The notes say it is fermented in steel and old oak, which is why it is so light and refreshing.

  • 2021 Rosato di Syrah       $25

Channing makes five different rosés.  This one is, as the name indicates, made from syrah grapes.  It is fairly tart, with not much fruitiness. 

This photo captures the incredible array of wines Channing offers.
  • Over and Over Variation 14          $40

I’ve had mixed results with the Over and Over wines, which sometimes appear in our shipments.  You really need to go to the Channing web site to read their description of the elaborate way these wines are made.  Our friends are unimpressed, and classify it as “a pizza wine.”

  • 2018 Meditazione            $42

We discussed the recent popularity of so-called “orange” wines, especially with younger drinkers.  Is it just the color, or does this wine have a slight orange taste?  This is another blend, of 45% chardonnay, 40% sauvignon blanc, 10% tocai friulano, 4% pinot grigio, and 1% muscat ottonel, contact with the skins giving it the orange color.  I like it, with its floral aroma and complex fruit tastes.

  • 2018 Blaufrankisch Sylvanus        $30

Both tastings include this red, so we are able to compare notes.  We agree that, though this is not a big red, it is tasty, with aromas and tastes of berries and dark fruits, like huckleberries.  The blaufrankisch is blended with 23% dornfelder.  Though the tasting notes suggest aromas of violets or lilacs, we don’t smell that, though it has a lovely aroma. 

  • 2019 Petillant Naturale Tocai Friulano      $29

Pet Nats are bubbly wines, not made in the méthode champenoise, and Channing makes five different ones.  This one is quite yummy, with guava and tropical fruit tastes from the tocai. 

  • 2018 Sculpture Garden                  $30

Mainly merlot, with 6% teroldego and 3% blaufrankisch, this is a “smooth and drinkable” red, say our friends.  Channing suggests one could age this for as long as ten years, but I doubt it would last that long in our cellar.

  • 2019 Petit Verdot             $40

By this time, as we drink the final wines in our tastings, we have become involved in lively conversations, and somehow I have neglected to record what our friends thought of the petit verdot!  However, I don’t remember any complaints, so I’ll assume they liked it.

Extras:  As I noted, our friend and I opt for an additional taste.  I start with the Scuttlehole Chardonnay $20), which is one of our favorite white wines.  It is still a favorite, dry and crisp, with notes of lemon and fruit.  Our friend tries two different vintages of L’Enfant Sauvage ($38)—so named because it uses wild yeasts, though now a number of their wines do, too—and likes the 2017 better than the 2016, which he says is smoother and has more flavor.  It is made from chardonnay grapes.  Then, as a bonus, we are treated to tastes of Cuvée Tropicale ($26), and that is our favorite of the day, pleasing all palates.  One friend says the aroma is almost like an ice wine, a sweet, floral aroma, probably due to the 58% muscat ottonel.  The rest of the blend is chardonnay.  The wine as a lot of different fruit flavors and real depth.  Yum.

Reasons to visit:  you are on the South Fork and want to visit a winery (there are only three!); the incredible variety of choices, especially for such a small winery; all the wines are likeable, but we especially loved the Cuvée Tropicale; there are wines for every taste; an intimate setting where you can chat about the wines.

McCall’s Winery: Burger Night!

August 3, 2023

A little over a year ago, we did a tasting at McCall’s Winery, and as I was paying, Mrs. McCall suggested that we come back on a Thursday or Friday night when they serve burgers, made from the Charolais cattle they raise on their property.  Being burger lovers, we fully intended to do so, but never got around to it.  Then our winery aficionado friends proposed that we join them for a burger night.  We were delighted.

When we arrived, the parking lot seemed full, but our friend found a spot toward the back.  As we waited for the hostess, we commented to our friends that we were glad they had made a reservation, as almost all the tables seemed to be full.  There were groups of friends, couples, and families, all relaxing and eating burgers and drinking wine Well, not the kids of course.  There’s ginger ale on the menu, too.

Speaking of the menu, it is quite simple.  You can have your McCall burger with or without cheddar cheese, $15 either way, with or without crispy French fries, an additional $8.  There is also an “Artisanal Cheese Board” for $24.  Oh, and a package of four homemade chocolate chip cookies for $8, which you order at the same time as your meal, and which come cellophane wrapped alongside your burgers. A bottle of chilled water is delivered to your table shortly after you sit down.

So then the big decision was which wine to order.  We quickly agreed to get a red.  When I was there for a tasting, I wrote that if I came for burger night, I would most likely get Ben’s Blend, my favorite of their reds.  However, a look at the menu made me reconsider that choice, as a bottle of Ben’s was $69.  Yikes.  We settled on the Merlot Reserve, which was $32, and was delicious, a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with lots of black cherry taste.

The burgers were meaty and juicy, the fries crisp and salty, the cookies filled with chocolate chips.  We ate, drank, chatted, and enjoyed the mild summer evening.  “See you next week,” we heard a departing patron tell the hostess, and I can see why.  If you just want a burger in a relaxed outdoor setting, McCall’s is clearly the place to go.

Croteaux Vineyards:  Ooh La La

July 20, 2013

Many (many!) years ago, while traveling in Europe, we rendezvoused for several days in Paris with dear friends.  Recently, they came north from Florida to escape the summer heat, and we were delighted they included a trip to the North Fork in their itinerary.  To honor those memories of France, we made salade niçoise for lunch, and then took them to the most French of the North Fork wineries, Croteaux.  Croteaux only makes rosés, and makes them in the dry Provençal style.

This view makes the garden look empty, but behind me it was full.

Happily, the weather cooperated, and it was pleasantly warm and sunny, because you want to sit in the lovely garden when you go there.  We followed a path from the parking area to an entrance in a barn, where we were promptly greeted and escorted to a table where we were given a nice cold bottle of water and some cups.  As we looked around, we noted that the garden was fairly crowded though they have added additional tables in an extended area.  Soft music set a relaxing mood.

You can scan the QR code or we can give you a printed-out menu, we were informed.  We opted for the printout.  Puzzlingly, the printed menu lists the prices of the wines as $39 and $37, while they in fact are $29 and $27. They should probably fix that. 

Croteaux only has table service—no standing at a bar.  They also offer a nice menu of real food, and we saw several very good-looking lobster slider rolls sail past our table enroute to lunchers.  I can definitely see coming here for a chilled glass of rosé and a lobster roll. 

This tub filled with water bottles is typical of the slightly funky aesthetic of the garden.

After some discussion, we decided that each couple would share one tasting—which proved to be more than enough, since, as much as we all liked the wines, we left over quite a bit.  One tasting of their six still wines is $28.  One could also opt for a tasting of their three sparklers for $26.  In past years we have belonged to their case club, which is their version of a wine club.  Buy a case (which one should do early in the season), and you’re in.   

If you are familiar with rosé, you can skip this paragraph… Rosé is usually made from red wine grapes, and how long they sit with the skins on determines how dark the rosé is. Rarely, it is made with white grapes, which then also sit with the skins on.  Some people think rosé is some sort of blend of red and white—which it actually could be, but not in the sense of here’s some red wine, let’s mix it with white until it is a pale pink. 

Our tasting in progress…you are told the order in which to try them, but then we kept going back and forth.

 2022 Chloe Sauvignon Blanc       $29

As you can tell by the name, this is made from white wine grapes.  This is a rosé for white wine drinkers, with a sweet aroma of honeysuckle and peach.  The taste is also of peaches and other stone fruit, but it is a dry wine.  Delicious, we all agree.

  • 2022 Merlot 181              $29

Of the six wines we tasted, this is our least favorite.  It is more austere, less fruity, than the others, and really needs to be paired with food, like seafood in a rich cream sauce.

  • 2022 Merlot 3                   $29

I smell orange blossoms and minerals, and we joke about licking rocks from the beach.  Lots of strawberry and orange tastes, with a long finish, make this rosé a real contrast to the 181.

  • 2022 Merlot Sauvage      $29

I explain to our friends that “sauvage” refers to the use of wild yeast, and one friend, a music aficionado, says the word “sauvage” reminds him of a line from the Benjamin Britton ballet, “Les Illuminations,” “J’ai seul la clef de cette parade sauvage.” The line is from a poem by Rimbaud.  Thus illuminated, we sip the wine, and are quite pleased.  Comments include “mouth-watering,” “a lot of taste,” and “peaches again.”  It also has a very pleasing minerality.  We each buy a bottle.

There are helpful tasting notes undeneath each glass.
  • 2022 Merlot 314              $27

I swear, this smells like orange juice.  Yummy.  It is fruity, and would pair well with charcuterie.

  • 2022 Jolie Cabernet Franc            $27

They saved the best for last, we decide, as we enjoy this flavorful sipper, with notes of strawberry shortcake and spice.  We also each buy a bottle of this one, as well.

The pretty bottles make nice gifts.
When it is time to pay, you go through the doorway in the background, where there is a little retail store.
Checks are charmingly delivered attached to shells.

Reasons to visit:  the lovely, relaxed garden setting; dogs are allowed; you like rosés; all the wines we tasted, but especially the Sauvage and the Jolie; nice menu of snacks.

Some of the items for sale in the retail store.
Cans of wine are becoming increasingly popular.

Lenz Winery: Intangibles

July 18, 2023

The rain seemed to be holding off, and a breeze made the temperature pleasant, so we decided to do an outdoor tasting.  We also wanted to be outside because our guest had brought his dogs, and we wanted to include them in the day’s activities, so we headed to Lenz. 

Primrose and Chewbacca quite enjoyed their first winery experience.

Sometimes I wonder whether how much I like a particular wine or winery is based on certain intangible factors, like the weather, or my mood, or little facets of service.  How objective is wine tasting anyway?  So much depends upon individual likes and dislikes.  On this day, we combined the peace of the courtyard (there was only one other party there), the nice breeze, the good company, and two happy dogs with wines we generally liked, with a few extras thrown in, to decide this was a great tasting experience. 

The courtyard offers a selection of shaded and unshaded tables.

Why were the dogs happy?  In addition to not being left at home, they were quickly provided with their own water dish and then—with permission from their owner—treats from the excellent server.  In addition to pampering the pooches, she timed the delivery of our tastes perfectly, falling in with our leisurely schedule and giving us just the right amount of information about each.

The North Fork wine country is celebrating its 50th anniversary, based on its beginnings with the Hargraves’ winery, and Lenz is not far behind, this year observing their 45th year in operation.  They say the older the vines, the better the wines, and that does seem to ring true here.

After perusing the menu, we decided my husband and I would share a Summer Flight, $30 for five fairly generous samples, and our guest would have the same flight, so we could compare notes.  We could also have opted for the Grand Flight, which features five of their pricier wines for $35.  There is also a chocolate pairing flight…maybe another time.  We also got a little $2 bag of North Fork potato chips, deciding to eschew the heftier options since I had cheeses and charcuterie waiting at home (including a nice chunk of 8 Hands pâté). 

  •  2016 Sauvignon Blanc                  $27 (for the ’22)

What an auspicious start to the afternoon!  We all found this sauvignon blanc delicious, with an aroma of honeysuckle and lots of fruit tastes, with a touch of lemon on the finish.  In fact, we liked it so much that we each bought a bottle to take home.

The pour was generous enough to share.
  • 2021 Firefly Rosé                             $20

Why Firefly, we asked.  Because it is named after the owner’s boat.  Ah.  A blend of malbec, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon, this is a yummy rosé, with tastes of tropical fruit—not quite pineapple, but sort of reminiscent of pineapple. 

I didn’t stop to ask about it, but Lenz often has displays of art for sale, which I assume this was. (It was about to rain, so we left quickly.)
  • 2022 Blanc do Noir Rosé               $24

If you look on the menu, you will see that this is not included in the tasting, but our lovely server brought it out for us, saying she wanted us to taste this before the other rosé, which we did.  Power of the book or the charm of the doggies?  Who knows.  In any event, this was a very light rosé, with a slight aroma of strawberry and tastes of strawberry and cherry, ending with some citrus and acidity.  Though we like it, we find it a bit too light, and actually prefer the Firefly.

  • 2017 Estate Selection Chardonnay             $22

We had a good chat with our server about oak vs. steel-fermented chardonnays.  As I’ve mentioned before, I tend to favor steel—I don’t like that buttery, oaky taste of oaked chards—but I have had some I liked.  This one is aged 50/50 in oak and steel, so sort of the best of both worlds.  I introduce our friend to the actual wine descriptor of “cat pee aroma,” which he finds amusing, but I do detect a trace of it in this wine.  However, the wine itself is quite drinkable—our friend says smooth—with a touch of citrus and not too much oak.

  • 2015 Gewürztraminer                    $30

Another gift!  Before you move on to the reds, says our server, is there any other white you’d like to try?  Hmmm…yes, I say, how about the gewürtz?  I like One Woman’s version of this wine very much, so let’s see how Lenz does.  I sniff and sense orange blossoms, a very flowery aroma.  A sip.  This wine is not shy, I opine, by which I mean it has a lot of taste!  Ripe fruit, spice…what would you eat with it, asks our friend.  Charcuterie!  Yes, it needs food that can stand up to it. Good.

  • 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon             $27

Pleasant, is the word we settle on for this light, easy-drinking red.  It has “not much depth,” notes my husband, but not every red has to be powerful.  For example, this one would go well with roast chicken.  It has some nice berry tastes and aromas.

  • 2017 Estate Selection Merlot       $22

Last wine!  We hasten our leisurely pace, as storm clouds are starting to gather. This is a good, fairly typical North Fork merlot, with an aroma I compare to Cheracol (a cough medicine you have to be of a certain age to know), and tastes of cherry and dark berries.  Nice, and a good price, too. 

The tasting room inside is cozy.

Reasons to visit: pleasant courtyard; dogs not just allowed, but pampered; the sauvignon blanc, the Firefly Rosé, the gewürztraminer, the merlot; a menu of real food, in addition to the usual cheese, etc.; an old-school winery where they take their wine-making very seriously.  By the way, though they have a small restroom inside, they also have the most deluxe port-a-potties I’ve ever seen, with air conditioning and a real sink.

I generally avoid port-a-potties, but these were deluxe.

Peconic Bay Vineyards: Celebrating the Fourth on the Second

July 2, 2023

#peconicbayvineyards #northfork #winetasting #barrelfermentedsauvignonblanc #theMoke

www.peconicbayvineyards.com

A patriotic flower pot.
The vines make a perfect photo backdrop.

We were a little wary of venturing out to a winery on the weekend before July Fourth, but Peconic Bay proved to be an excellent choice—just enough people to feel celebratory, not so many that it felt crowded.  It was also a good choice since it fit with our plans for the day, which included a visit to the Horton Point Lighthouse (If you haven’t ever been there, go. Note that it is only open on weekends, but the volunteers who staff it are lovely, and very well-informed, and the little museum is well set up.  Our guests braved the climb up the tower, but I had been, and once was enough.  We paid $5 to park in the lot and $10 for the family to enter.)  Then, we needed to be at Braun’s at 4:30 to pick up our steamed lobsters for dinner, and Peconic Bay is right next door.  The timing worked out perfectly.

The outdoor space is more comfortable than the indoor room.

I had made a reservation, and they sat our party of six around a firepit (obviously not lit on this warm afternoon) shaded by an umbrella.  The outside patio is a lovely place on a nice day, but the indoor tasting room is small and rather spartan, so I think this is one of those places I’ll go to in the summer.  As we perused the menu, we enjoyed the cool jazz of a group whose name I couldn’t quite catch.  The menu offers two flights, the Crossroads of three wines for $18, and Reserve, of three wines for $20.  One could also opt for pairings of three wines with chocolate, cheese, or oysters.  We were planning to pick up some oysters with out lobsters, and we wanted to try the full panoply of wines, so we decided that each couple would share both flights.  That worked out well, and there was plenty of wine, but the sequence ended up being a bit of an issue, since both tastings include some whites and some reds. As a result, we kept going back and forth between the two flights.  My notes, therefore, are in the order in which I tasted the wines, not separated by flight.

We also ordered a little dish of Marcona almonds ($4), and another of olives ($8), both quite good, and two non-alcoholic drinks for the minors in the party.  They both gave positive reviews to the Beach Ball cold brew strawberry hibiscus caffeine free tea ($5) and the Subtle Tea lemonade ($4).  They also enjoyed seeing a few dogs on the patio, and noting the cute Moke, a jeep-like vehicle in which one can tour the vines.

We asked our server if they made the wines on the premises, and he enthusiastically explained that the separate building on the other side of the parking lot contains their wine-making facility and their cellar, filled with stainless steel tanks and oak barrels.    

  •  2021 Sauvignon Blanc                  $28

We all agree that the aroma is lovely, which I describe as flowery.  The taste is tart, with lots of acidity and a long finish.  It would go well with oysters, but I am planning to make martinis for my guests, one of my favorite beverages to go with oysters—another is a dry sparkling wine.

  • 2021 Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc $35

This is from the Reserve flight, and we decided it would be fun to taste the two side by side.  One member of the party explained to the minors that two wines made from the same grape, grown in the same place, could taste very different depending on how they were made.  I like this better than the steel sauvignon blanc, which surprised me a little, but it is not oaky, and our comments are:  “nice, round, smooth, yum.”  It has a bit of a vanilla aroma, and would go well with lobster.

The flights come with handy little tasting notes.
  •  2016 Blanc de Blancs                    $40

The collective decision is to try the Blanc de Blancs next, as it is starting to lose its bubbles already.  One guest compares the aroma to privet, a flower we’ve been smelling all day.  Maybe.  It is quite tart, and not a sparkler for sipping on its own.  I eat a few almonds and then try it, and find it improves when paired with food.

  • 2021 Steel Chardonnay   $28

“The more I drink it, the more I like it,” opines our guest.  It has a bit of a funky aroma and taste, but otherwise is similar to most North Fork chardonnays, with citrus tastes and some green apple.

  • 2020 Merlot       $35

“Not exciting,” is the group judgment on this “serviceable” merlot.  I taste and smell cherry, as is typical, with a touch of tobacco from the oak.  Someone observes that it is “too tangy.”

  • 2020 Malbec      $35

Though it has no body, this wine is spicy and herbal, with tastes and smells of dark fruit, lavender, and rosemary.  “Meh,” says one guest.  I say it’s a nice wine.

Reasons to visit:  pleasant outdoor patio overlooking the vines; convenient location next door to Braun’s; the barrel fermented sauvignon blanc; all the wines were drinkable, if not exciting; live music; oysters and other pairings; the Moke!

The winemaking facility is on the other side of the parking lot.