Chronicle Wines: A Family Story

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Alie Shaper, As If, BOE, Brooklyn Oenology, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, Chronicle Wines, dogs allowed outside, Harbinger, Haywater Cove, merlot, North Fork, Pet-Nat, petit verdot, Red Blend, Redskies, Robin Epperson-McCarthy, rose, Saltbird Cellars, sauvignon blanc, Serendipity, snacks available, syrah, wine tasting August 29, 2022

August 25, 2022

*The winery is in a storefront on Peconic Lane.*

The last time we were at Chronicle Wines—back in 2019, when it was still called Peconic Cellar Door—the five-year-old daughter of one of the owners put in an appearance with her nanny, so it seemed like a good place to visit with a couple of granddaughters in tow. And indeed it was.

*The bar is a holdover from the Winemaker’s Studio.*

Since our pre-Covid visit, Chronicle, helmed by Robin Epperson-McCarthy and Alie Shaper (both of whom were in the tasting room when we arrived, and gave us a warm welcome), has expanded into the next-door shop-front space previously occupied by Anthony Nappa’s Winemaker’s Studio. Alie assured us that Anthony, who is the winemaker for Raphael, is still very much in the winemaking business, and continues to runs his wine club for the wines he makes separate from Raphael. This new room is outfitted more like a lounge, with cushioned seats and small tables, plus the bar, while their original space has bigger tables. Since there were six in our party (counting the two youngsters) we opted for the big table, promising Robin that we would ignore the stacked boxes of a recent delivery—which they soon began putting away.

The tasting menu offers two options, a white and orange flight of five wines for $25, or a red and rosé flight of five tastes, also $25. Since we wanted to try the full panoply of their wines, we decided to share one of each flight amongst the four of us, which turned out to work beautifully. Alie brought to our table a chilled bottle of water plus a tray of empty glasses so we could share the wines without sharing a glass. We also ordered a few snacks for the girls and ourselves—a box of cranberry almond crisps, a bag of North Fork potato chips, and a jar of olives—plus lemonades for the girls, and settled in.

While we waited for our flights to arrive, we examined the art on the walls, as Alie and Robin make a point of featuring local artists. Today’s paintings are by Cherryl K. Bradley. The granddaughters were quick to observe that “Queen of the Scrambled Brain” contained both a crown and some hearts, and wondered whether it showed the state of mind of someone who had difficulty with love.

Both Robin and Alie stopped by our table from time to time to see if we had any questions and make sure we had everything we needed. Although they work together, they each have their own brands of wines: As If, Brooklyn Oenology (BOE), Chronicle, Haywater Cove, and Saltbird Cellars. The tasting included some from each brand.

2024 Chronicle Chardonnay Pét-Nat $30

Sparkling wines are always a nice way to start a tasting, as they get one in a celebratory mood. This one was no exception, having a pleasantly yeasty aroma, nice carbonation, and a taste we discussed as either lemon verbena or lemon pie. One of our guests pronounced it “lively.”

2018 BOE Pinot Gris $15 (on sale)

Even though this one is on sale, we opted not to buy any, since we found it both thin and earthy, if that makes sense. I sensed a bit of a metallic taste, or maybe minerality would be a better term.

2019 Saltbird Cellar Sauvignon Blanc $25

We sensed an aroma of lemon and green apple, and one guest opined that “it has some sort of fruit taste, but not sure which.” We laughed over our shared tendency to guess gooseberry, though none of us is quite sure what a gooseberry tastes like. This might go nicely with some gravlax.

2014 As If Serendipity White Blend $15

Our favorite of the whites, this is a blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and viognier, lightly oaked. It has more body than the others, with a “nice roundness,” according to one guest, and a thyme honey taste, while still being tart. We each buy a bottle.

2020 BOE “Broken Land” orange wine $30

You may be wondering about how the granddaughters—ages eleven and eight—are occupying themselves as we sit and sip. They have their Kindles to read and snacks to munch, but they are also taking an interest in our discussions. They sniff the wines appreciatively, and agree or disagree with our descriptions of the aromas. Dad asks the eight-year-old, who, with her sister, has been helping him with some amateur basement winemaking, if she knows what an orange wine is. She confidently and immediately replies, “It’s a wine made with white wine grapes, fermented on the skins.” Overhearing this, Alie notes that if she were eighteen she’d hire her on the spot. Meanwhile, we sip this blend of gewürztraminer, sauvignon blanc, and pinot gris, and decide we like its aroma of orange blossoms or honeysuckle better than its flavor, which is a bit thin for us.

NV Haywater Cove Rosé $15

Rosé makes a nice transition from whites to reds, since it is made from red wine grapes, but fermented with minimal skin contact. This one is a blend of merlot and cabernet franc, and is very much in the Provençal tradition of light, dry rosés. We note that it is a good wine for hot weather, and could see drinking a nice chilled glass of this on the porch. My tasting buddy likes its strawberry aroma and flavor.

2019 Saltbird Cellars “Red Skies” $30

Though we find this blend of syrah and cabernet sauvignon pleasant, we don’t feel it is a $30 bottle. The aroma is earthy, and the wine is light, with tastes of raisins and grapefruit peel.

2020 Saltbird Cellars Merlot $27

The aroma has a slight whiff of basement, and the wine is very dry and light, with a touch of cherry flavor. One of us suggests it would go well with roast chicken, to which I reply, “What doesn’t?” We have some difference of opinion over this one, which one guest pronounces sophisticated, but which I find unimpressive.

2017 Saltbird Cellars “Harbinger” $36

When a wine has a non-varietal name, that often means it is a blend, which this is: merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot. The night before, we bought steaks at Center Cuts and cooked them on the barbeque, so we were wondering whether any of the reds we tasted today would stand up to such steaks. This one would not. It has some cherry and dark fruit taste, but is again rather light, though one guest notes it has “chewy tannins.”

2013 Chronicle Wines Red Blend, limited edition $40 (? Not sure)

Yummy aroma of dried fruits, delicious taste. And yes, this wine could stand up to a big steak. It has lots of dark fruit flavor, is dry, with a nice mouth feel. This is a Bordeaux blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, syrah, and petit verdot. We both buy a bottle.

Reasons to visit: Alie and Robin are eager to please, and will tell you all about their wines; pleasant small tasting room; the Pét-Nat, the As If Serendipity white blend, the Haywater Cove Rosé, and the Chronicle Red Blend; if you are interested in such things, they also sell canned wines and spritzers; dogs allowed outside.

Pugliese Vineyards: Memories of Italy

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Blanc de Blanc, blanc de noir, cabernet franc, dogs allowed outside, Merlot Reserve, North Fork, pinot grigio, Pugliese Vineyards, Sangiovese, snacks available, Sunset Meritage, Veronica's Rose, wine tasting December 17, 2021

December 15, 2021

http://www.pugliesevineyards.com

As we drove up to Pugliese Vineyards, we admired the vine-wrapped pergola, and reminisced about a trip to the Puglia region of Italy. While there, we stayed in a Masseria, actually a lovely resort located on a farm, and ate delicious fresh food and drank some good wines. Unfortunately, only two of the wines we tried here lived up to our memories.

The tasting room was empty on this warm December Wednesday, except for two members of the Pugliese family who were busy preparing gift baskets with their signature hand-painted wine glasses and bottles of wine. We were immediately ushered into another space, where many little metal tables that seem to have escaped from someone’s garden were set up. “We’re offering table service now,” we were informed, as we were handed several menus. One was for the wines currently on offer for tastings, another gave the prices of the bottles with some information on each wine, and the third was for foods on offer. Since we had just had lunch, we were not interested in cheese and crackers, so we just perused the wine list.

A tasting consists of any four wines from their list for $20, but since there were 23 wines on the list, we decided to order two tastings, so we could sample more of their offerings. The tastes came in little plastic cups, and I’m not sure if it was because of the vessel, or because the wines were all too cold, or if they are just like that, but most of the wines had little or no aroma. The pour was generous enough that we only emptied two of the glasses. Our server wrote the name of each wine on the cups with black marker, which was fortunate, as you will see.

Pugliese is one of the vineyards that does a brisk business with limos in the summer, when their pretty grounds are generally teeming with crowds. They also offer a roster of live music performances. On the back of the price list we noted some deals, especially an offer of any six wines (excepting ports and sparklers) for $69. Good deal, about which more later.

*Our tastes came in these little plastic cups. It may be just me, but I think wine tastes better in glass.*

2012 Blanc de Noir $25.99

This sparkling wine provided an auspicious start to our tasting. Made from pinot noir grapes, it has a slight pink tinge, and a tasty, toasty, taste of pears. Very nice.

2015 Blanc de Blanc $25.99

Tooth-achingly cold, this wine seems to have hardly any taste, though when we circle back to it, we get green apple. It is crisp and refreshing, but a more or less generic sparkling wine.

2016 Pinot Grigio $17.99

I generally like pinot grigios, or their French cousin, pinot gris, but not this one. It has an unpleasant metallic tinge to it. My drinking buddy says it tastes like it came straight from the tap—the water tap.

2017 Veronica’s Rosé $17.99

Like many rosés, this has a light pink color, and a slight taste of strawberry. Unfortunately, it also has a slightly unpleasant metallic edge.

2014 Sangiovese $16.99

We move on to the reds, and find this one drinkable, a decent pizza wine, though it is rather light. My husband opines, paraphrasing Gertrude Stein, that there is “no there there.”

2015 Merlot Reserve $16.99

Perhaps they have made use of a “flavor extractor,” we joke, since this is an extremely light merlot, lacking most of the deep cherry flavor one usually gets with North Fork merlots. As my tasting pal notes, you can’t tell the players without a score card—or in other words, there’s not enough taste to tell what they are.

2019 Cabernet Franc $16.99

Whew. This one is more to our liking, a pleasantly dry red with some hints of spice and berry. It would be fine with food, though we are not much interested in sipping it on its own.

2015 Sunset Meritage $34.99

Finally! Another wine we like. A blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc, it is a very drinkable red, smooth, with pleasant berry flavors. But is it worth $35 a bottle (I hate that whole 99 cents thing.)? Our server makes an appearance, and I ask her if this is included in the 6/$69 offer. Yes, it is. Okay then. We will take six of these! We save about $140. And have a perfectly acceptable wine for everyday drinking. When we order it, our server makes some comment about the holidays coming, and I laugh and say, we drink wine every day!

Hand painted glasses and a bottle of wine, all ready to give as gifts.

Reasons to visit: pretty outdoor area for the warm weather, though you are also liable to encounter a crowd; the Blanc de Noir and the Sunset Meritage; some good deals on buying six or twelve bottles; they allow dogs outside; you can buy as a gift a wrapped set of two hand-painted glasses and a bottle of wine; they also sell very attractive large photographs of the North Fork.

Large artistic photographs of the North Fork are available for purchase.

Greenport Harbor Brewing Company: An Impromptu Stop

Posted by nofowineaux in Brewery and tagged with beer tasting, Black Duck Porter, brewery, Cuvaison, dogs allowed outside, food available, Greenport Harbor Brewing Company, Leaf Pile Ale, North Fork, North Fork Roadhouse, Otherside IPA, Well Rested October 23, 2021

October 20, 2021

*Plenty of room outside at Greenport Harbor Brewing.*

This beautiful, warm, sunny October weather is making up for all those rainy days we had in July. It was such a nice day, that we decided to do our daily walk in Greenport, check out the shops, see what’s new. The on-street dining areas have been cleared away, which we think is too bad, as really, who needs to drive down Front Street? We noted that Sweet Indulgences is closing. I hope that whoever comes into that space maintains the pretty little front garden there. Quite a few places were closed, as shops tend to close Tuesdays and Wednesdays after the season is over, but there were plenty of people strolling around. Gradually, some of the funky off-beat “antique” shops are being replaced with boutiques, but so far no national chain stores.

After our walk, we headed home, but the warm weather had worked up a thirst, so we decided to stop at Greenport Harbor Brewing Company’s Peconic location to see what new brews they have. Since we were there not long ago, I’m not going into detail about the experience. We chose our beers and took the $15 flight outside to a picnic table on the capacious lawn, which we shared with maybe three other small groups. We had more beer than we actually wanted to finish, but we enjoyed them all.

Cuvaison 7.5% ABV

Not sure where the name came from, but my guess it is some sort of play on the wine term cuvee, since this is “Saison” made with “local merlot juice from McCall Vineyard.” It has a lovely slight cherry flavor as well as some typical beer bitterness. We liked it, but also felt it was a good beer for a non-beer-drinker.

Leaf Pile Ale 5.2% ABV

Of course, they have an entry in the October mania for all things pumpkin. This is called a pumpkin ale, but is not overly spiced, with a bit of nutmeg taste. Refreshing. It would go great with pork chops and apple sauce.

Well Rested 11.2% ABV

Brews like this are a reason I like Greenport Harbor Brewing so much. This is described as a milk stout, “aged in Heaven Hill Bourbon Barrels,” and it is quite unusual. It has umami, and an almost malted mouth feel. I also taste fudge, with a touch of bitterness. I could definitely see sipping this in a cozy pub, maybe with a dish of shepherd’s pie. My tasting buddy thinks it is a bit “overpowering.”

Otherside IPA 6.8% ABV

This smells like a combination of pine woods and fresh-cut grass, and tastes piney and lemony.

Black Duck Porter 5.0%ABV

This is one of my favorites of their brews, and never disappoints. Recently, we had dinner at the North Fork Roadhouse, and got a glass of this and one of Guinness, and actually decided we liked this better. It is dark but not too heavy, with some coffee flavor and aroma.

Reasons to visit: What I’ve written about before, plus they are always trying new flavors (like Cuvaison and Well Rested) and their brews are good.

Coffee Pot Cellars: Time for a Chat

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Adam Suprenant, Beasley, Beasley's Blend, Blossom Meadow Farm, chardonnay, Coffee Pot Cellars, dogs allowed outside, gewurztraminer, honey, jams, Laura Klahre, Meritage, merlot, North Fork, rose, sauvignon blanc, wine tasting October 17, 2021

October 15, 2021

Watch for the large dinosaur—excuse me—wine-o-saur on their lawn to find Coffee Pot Cellars’ tasting room. Made from corks inserted into a wire frame, this not-yet-completed structure symbolizes the quirky charm of this little winery. When you walk in, you will get an enthusiastic greeting from Laura Klahre, the wife of winemaker Adam Suprenant, and possibly also from their little black pug, Beasley. Beasley, however, is less enthusiastic these days, as his age of fourteen has begun to take its toll, and he was fast asleep during our recent visit.

Though we last visited Coffee Pot (named for the lighthouse near Orient Point—and no, they do not serve coffee) in November 2019, Laura immediately recognized us, and included us in the conversation she was having with another couple, who also had not been there for a long time, about an amusing incident they had witnessed. Several new customers came in while we were there, and, since they all opted to sit outside on the wrap-around porch, we had Laura to ourselves for much of our visit. For them, she set up their complete tasting on a labeled tray, while for us she poured each one separately, so we had time to chat.

According to the chalkboard, a complete tasting includes six of their seven wines for $15: three whites and three reds, but not the rosé. However, as Laura put it, to acknowledge the tough year we have all had, and because we are on vacation and shouldn’t have to make decisions, the six is actually seven, as she also pours the rosé. At the moment, she is using “corn plastic”—which is compostable—rather than glass, because their dishwasher is broken. It would, she confesses, “hurt my soul” to use regular plastic. That’s because in addition to her work in the tasting room—which is open Friday-Monday—Laura is a beekeeper and environmentalist, and sells her Blossom Tree Farm honey in the tasting room. She also makes award-winning jam—we bought a jar of blueberry—and has a project to plant milkweed to help stem the decimation of the monarch butterfly population. On our last visit, Beasley was wearing little monarch wings to promote this last project, but he’s getting too old to parade around in a costume.

As we sipped and chatted, we noted how much we like the wines, as well as the conversation! And when we left, we took with us, in addition to the jam, a bottle of the Meritage and another of the rosé.

2019 Sauvignon Blanc $21.99

Aged in stainless steel, this has a lovely aroma of melon and flowers, and is quite tasty. We get lemon/lime, but it is more fruity than tart, though it is dry. As with most North Fork sauvignon blancs, this would be lovely with some clams or oyster.

2015 Chardonnay $19.99

I was a bit leery of this, since it is oak aged, but then Laura noted that it is aged in fourteen-year-old barrels—in other words, neutral oak—so I took a sip. Very nice. Though you do get a bit of that I -chewed-on-my-pencil taste, overall it is more lemony than oaky.

2017 Gewürztraminer $21.99

Thanksgiving is coming, so we discussed what a good wine gewürztraminer is for that holiday, because it is so versatile. It also has enough taste to stand up to turkey, cranberry sauce, etc. This is a dry one, which is good for me, with lovely honeysuckle aromas and tastes of pineapple and nutmeg.

2020 Rosé $24.99

A blend of 95% cabernet sauvignon and 5% merlot, this is a rosé with more oomph than most, with lovely aromas and flavors of strawberry. This is also dry, and we got into a conversation about dry versus sweet wines, since one person had come in asking, did they have any sweet wines. I suggested that she could offer them this rosé because, though it is dry, it has lots of fruit, which might read sweet to some.

2016 Beasley’s Blend $21.99

Laura observed to another customer who had come in and opted to just taste the reds, that her husband loves making reds. That shows, as all three reds are better than the average North Fork ones. Beasley apparently likes Bordeaux wines, as this is a Bordeaux blend of 58% merlot, 31% cabernet franc, 6% petit verdot, and 5% cabernet sauvignon. It smells like cherries, no doubt the effect of the merlot, and is a soft and very drinkable red, with tastes of plums and chocolate.

2014 Merlot $25.99

If you buy a bottle of this, they plant more milkweed to help the monarchs, as a little blackboard keeps track of them. Aged 18 months in French oak, this is a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with cherry flavor and aroma.

2015 Meritage $28.99

Yum. We bought a bottle of this to put in our cellar, as it is too good for just weeknight hamburgers. A blend of 83% merlot, 12% cabernet franc, and 5% cabernet sauvignon, this has interesting tastes that include ripe cherries and cocoa and spice.

Reasons to visit: a quirky little winery that has very good wines; Laura’s conversation and Beasley’s charm; you can also buy jam and honey and other interesting items; all the wines, but especially the rosé and the Meritage; you can bring your dog if you sit outside.

There’s an antique store next door, in case you want to browse.

RG/NY: A Shared Aesthetic January 17, 2020

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, dogs allowed outside, Malbec, Martha Clara, merlot, no outside food, North Fork, petit verdot, RG/NY, Scielo Chardonnay, Scielo Riesling, Scielo Rose, Tinto, white merlot, wine tasting January 19, 2020

https://rgnywine.com/

Don’t be fooled by that blue sky–it was cold!

The starkly simple sign outside leads you into an entry area that is almost Zen-like in its simplicity. The tasting room is similarly pared down to essentials, as are the wines. Even the bottles share this aesthetic, looking like examples of modern art. Our friendly and well-informed server, Tina, tells us that an attractive stair-step design on the labels has a symbolic meaning. The wines are named “Scielo,” which a neon sign, the only décor in the tasting room, informs us means Heaven. The steps are a route to the heaven you find in the bottle.

The Rivero González family bought this winery and vineyard from Martha Clara in 2018, but they have been winemakers in Mexico since 1998. We had waited to check them out until we figured they had time to make their own wines, which they have. The only hold-overs from Martha Clara are some of the reds—and Tina herself, who greets arriving wine club members like old friends. She tells us that the new owners want to keep the family-friendly atmosphere of Martha Clara, while putting their own stamp on the wines and décor. For example, dogs will be allowed outside on the grounds (though today there is one in the tasting room! Well, it is certainly too cold to hang around outside.).

This pooch was so well-behaved we didn’t even realize she was there until someone greeted her.

I ask Tina about snacks, and she shows me a menu which is available on weekends in the winter, and every day in season. (No outside food.) Meanwhile, there is a refrigerated case and various snack items in the shop area, so you can make a DIY snack. We decide we are not that hungry, and anyway, each tasting comes with a little dish of very tasty crackers.

The snack menu, which is available on weekends in the winter.

You can make a DIY snack.

The tasting menu offers a choice of three different flights: the Scielo selection of four wines for $17, four whites for $20, or RG Selection of higher-level wines, four for $22. The final choice on that menu is a Martha Clara red, but Tina, noting that we have been to Martha Clara, says she could substitute the RG Tinto if we prefer. We decide to go with the Scielo flight.

2018 Scielo Chardonnay $25

I am happy to learn that this is a primarily steel-fermented chard, with just 2% oaked. I find in general that I prefer steel chards, but a little bit of oak adds depth and a nice mouth feel. It has an aroma of ripe apples and flowers, and tastes like a Granny Smith apple as well. There’s also a touch of lime. My tasting buddy insists that it is slightly sweet, but after some discussion we realize that his taste is influenced by some residual sweetness from the cracker he munched. He says this would be a good seafood wine, and I agree, though I think a seafood in cream dish would go best.

2018 Riesling $24

Before we opted for this flight, I asked if the riesling was sweet or dry, and Tina reassured me that it was dry. She wasn’t kidding. It is bone dry, and very light. The aroma is of honeysuckle and metal, and there’s a touch of metal in the taste as well. Like touching your tongue to a pole? Well, I’m not that dumb. I also taste pears. We get into a discussion about how the new wines are very dry, whereas the Martha Clara wines tended to be more on the sweet side. Some former customers are unhappy with the new taste, while we prefer it.

The stair step pattern on the label has a symbolic meaning.

2018 Scielo Rosé $22

Yum. This is a blend of 48% merlot, 32% malbec, and 20% cabernet franc, and the complexity of that blend shows up in the flavor, which is more interesting than a standard rosé. Tasty, says my husband. It has the strawberry aroma one would expect, and in addition to some strawberry flavor a definite note of lychee. We decide to get a bottle to go with the scallops we bought earlier at Braun’s.

2018 White Merlot $32

Power of the book—she was pouring this for someone else, so she offered us a taste of this white wine made from merlot grapes. Nice. It tastes like a cross between red and white, light and drinkable, with an aroma of wood and leather and white cherry taste.

2018 Tinto $30

Our server compares this to a Beaujolais, and it is light like a Beaujolais, though it is made from a Bordeaux blend: 43% merlot, 37% cabernet sauvignon, 10% petit verdot, and 10% cabernet franc. I would guess that they were in a hurry to get out a red of their own, because we think this could benefit from more aging. It has a nice cherry aroma and taste, but no depth and some tannins. It is very young, and I could see drinking it with meatloaf or hamburgers.

2018 Cabernet Franc $37

There’s just a little bit left in this bottle, not enough to give anyone a regular taste, so Tina asks if we’d like a sip of this. Of course, we would. I get spice and leather, not much fruit. Again, I think this would benefit from more time, and we resolve to come back in a year or so to see how the wines have developed.

There’s a very large side room.

Reasons to visit: A chance to try a new place; very roomy surroundings, in case you are with a group; the rosé, the White Merlot. One note—the bar has almost no overhang, so there’s nowhere to put your knees when you sit there, and the stools are rather uncomfortable. Perhaps they will fix that in the future.

From the outside, you con’t tell that there are significant changes both inside the building and inside the bottles.

But there are still some Martha Clara wines available for purchase.

The gift shop has many fewer items than it used to have.

Greenport Harbor Brewery: Summer Sippers June 14, 2019

Posted by nofowineaux in Brewery and tagged with 1927 Pilsner, alcohol by volume, Barrier Brewing Company, beer tasting, Black Duck Porter, dogs allowed outside, Face Value, food available, giant pretzel, Greenport Harbor Brewery, Harbor Ale, Locals to Locals #14, Maine Coarse, North Fork, Summer Ale, Velvet Sea June 16, 2019

https://greenportharborbrewing.com/

Certain beverages just seem to go with certain seasons, like icy lemonade and cold beer in the summer. It was a beautiful sunny day on the North Fork, so we decided it was definitely beer weather, and furthermore that it was time to return to Greenport Harbor. They have two locations: the original small place on a back street in Greenport, and a huge space in Peconic, with a large restaurant area and outdoor lawn. Since we wanted a bite to eat, we opted for the Peconic facility.

A remodeled car dealer, the tasting room has a definite industrial vibe, with exposed beams and a concrete floor. Simple wooden tables and benches provide seating. The restaurant area is a separate room off to one side. Usually, you go in there to order food, but on this day a sign instructed you to order at the bar in the tasting room. At the bar, we carefully perused the beers on offer, aiming to try varieties we hadn’t had the last time we were there. We wrote down our choices on a piece of paper, and asked the server to please organize the glasses in the order in which we should taste them. Then we gave him our food order—a giant pretzel—and, after filling our tasting glasses, he handed me a device which emitted a loud buzz and flashed lights when the food was ready to be picked up.

Hot pretzel with melted cheese. Yum.

When you order a glass or a tasting, you surrender your credit card, which you get back when you return your glasses. A tasting consists of five generous pours for $12.

The beer menu changes seasonally, so you never know what to expect.

Our server was quite busy when we placed our order, as a large group had gathered on the lawn outside and individual members kept coming in to make orders. In addition, it was lunch time, and we saw a number of people quietly having lunch and a beer. However, when we were ready to leave and I went to pick up the credit card, the room was quiet, so I was able to chat with him about the names of the beers—a subject that always fascinates me.

If you want to take some beer home, you can buy bottles, cans, or growlers.

Because we were aiming to try new flavors, we skipped my favorite of their beers: The Black Duck Porter. I highly recommend it if you like dark Guinness-like beers.

Our tasting, plus the paper where we wrote down our choices. Make sure you ask for the order in which to drink them.

1. 1927 Pilsner 5% ABV (Alcohol by volume)

This was one name our server couldn’t explain, but he thought it might have been named for a restaurant which had requested this particular brew. (The menu says “brewed exclusively for The Paramount”.) In any event, the date is appropriate, because my reaction was this is a “good old-fashioned-beer beer.” My tasting pal said, “Nothing jumps out in your mouth,” which sounded to me like something to be grateful for. In any event, it’s a mellow, rather monochromatic, malty beer.

2. Summer Ale 5% ABV

Good name for this light ale, which I described as a “beer on the beach” type. Also not an exciting beer, this is an easy to drink quaff, refreshing, with a touch of sweetness.

There’s a gift counter where you can buy t-shirts, etc.

3. Velvet Sea 5% ABV

The server described this as “between a lager and an ale,” and clearly it is designed to go down smoothly—which might explain the name. It smells hoppy and has some citrus taste, but not too much. I said it was pleasant but not OMG. I could see this with a hot dog and fries at a barbeque.

You can buy t-shirts like this in the little store area.

4. Locals to Locals #14 7.2% ABV

They call this a “Hazzzy IPA.” Whatever that means, this is a beer that smells like a Christmas tree and has a pleasantly piney taste, with a touch of cardamom. We both like this the best of the brews so far. It has enough taste to be interesting, but not so much that we can’t enjoy drinking it. We also like the concept behind the name, which is that local breweries and retail outlets and restaurants band together to promote local beers and the places to drink and buy them.

Note the taps. Greenport Harbor makes use of the fact that Long Island is shaped somewhat like a whale.

5. Face Value 8% ABV

Like grapefruit juice? Then you may love this beer. I like grapefruit juice, but I prefer that my beer not taste like it. This one tastes like a slightly sweetened grapefruit juice, just less acidic than most. My husband, however, really likes it. The menu describes it as an “Imperial IPA brewed in collaboration with Barrier Brewing Company,” in Oceanside. One of the brewers used to work for Barrier, the server told us, and that also explains the name. Barrier likes to use money references for its beers, with names like “Legal Tender” and “Claim the Vault.”

As we discuss the beers we drank and what we did and did not like, our server pours us a tiny taste of a beer he says we must try: Maine Coarse. It’s an IPA brewed with sea salt, key limes, and lactose. It’s certainly interesting, and shockingly salty. This is a beer that you have to drink with food—maybe something like fried chicken—so that the saltiness would complement the food and not overwhelm your taste buds.

Reasons to visit: a brewery with lots of interesting options plus a restaurant with some unusual dishes as well as what you’d expect; the Black Duck Porter and Harbor Ale, though we didn’t drink them today; Summer Ale, Velvet Sea, Locals to Locals #14; you can bring your dog, though not into the restaurant area; sometimes they have music; they always feature displays of art from local artists in both venues.

Fido can come with you , but has to stay outside.

Lieb Cellars: Well, the Setting is Pleasant April 27, 2019

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Bridge Lane, dogs allowed outside, Estate Cabernet Franc, Estate Chardonnay, Estate Merlot, Estate Petit Verdot, Estate Pinot Blanc, Estate Sparkling Pinot Blanc, Leib Cellars, no outside food, North Fork, Oregon Road, snack menu, The Second Hand, wine tasting April 29, 2019

http://liebcellars.com/lieb-cellars-tasting-room/

In warm weather, it is pleasant to sit on the patio. Plus you can bring your dog there.

The small, nicely decorated tasting room was almost full when we got there at 1:30, so we were concerned that we hadn’t made a reservation. But the hostess showed us to a small table made from a wine barrel topped by glass, with high stools for seats. By the time we left an hour later, every seat was taken, including the stools at the bar. Well, there was music, by a pleasant duo called The Second Hands, and weekends are starting to get more crowded on the North Fork, but we were underwhelmed by the wines.

I remembered that the last time we had been there we had sat outside on the lovely patio overlooking rural Oregon Road, with one of my brothers and his wife, and my brother had characterized the merlot as “Kool-Ade wine.” Still not an unjust description.

By the time we left, all the seats were taken.

The crowd seemed to skew slightly older than some other wineries, with larger groups sitting on comfortable couches around coffee tables. Many people were getting snacks from the somewhat upscale menu of cheeses and meats and other nibbles. A large party occupied a separate room, where they seemed to be getting some sort of wine tutorial or private tasting.

The menu offers three options: four whites for $12, four reds for $15, or six Estate wines for $20. As we perused the list, we noted that the white and red options included a number of the lower-priced Bridge Lane wines, which we had tasted at Lieb’s more casual tasting room on Cox Neck Road back in September, so we opted to share an Estate flight. There’s also a list of higher priced wines only available as single tastes or glasses.

Our server brought us all six tastes on small round trays, clearly labeled as to variety and order of tasting, and gave a quick, almost robotic run through of their characteristics. Though she checked back on us at regular intervals, my husband felt the lack of those wine discussions we so enjoy having. One nice touch—they bring to each table a carafe of water and glasses, useful for palate cleansing.

Nice touch–fresh flowers on the tables.

(Note: no outside food or drink. Dogs are allowed on the outside patio, but not inside.)

2013 Estate Sparkling Pinot Blanc $38

It’s always nice to start with a sparkling wine, since it sets a festive tone. Our server informed us that it was “fermented in the bottle, in the traditional method.” It was served so cold that at first we could barely taste it, so by the time it warmed up the nice little bubbles had mostly dissipated. I don’t know whether the bottle had been open for a while, or whether the bubbles just don’t have much staying power. The wine smells of metal and honeysuckle, with tastes of roasted pear, butterscotch or toast, and minerals. It’s dry, so could go with charcuterie, but not tasty enough to go on its own for a toast.

2018 Estate Pinot Blanc $22

This is our signature grape, our server announced. I can see why. This is a nice, very drinkable white. The aroma I described as a combination of orange blossoms and asparagus is characterized in the tasting notes as lemon blossom. Again, this is a dry wine, with some light citrus taste plus maybe gooseberries and, according to my tasting buddy, celery. Also some minerality. It could be good with lobster or seafood in a cream sauce.

2018 Estate Chardonnay $24

Our server described this one as “70% oaked, with nice creaminess” so I was not looking forward to it, but the tasting notes on the tray said “neutral oak.” Whew. It was pretty strongly citrusy for an oaked chard, with aromas of pencil shavings (cedar, they say) and a touch of cat pee. The notes also said melon, but I would say unripe melon. Definitely not the butterscotchiness you sometimes get with oaked chards. My husband liked it the best of the three, but I was not as pleased with it. He thought it would go well with oysters, while I was thinking veal chops (though I’ve pretty much stopped eating veal).

Note the schedule of music events: though we were underwhelmed by the wines, it is still a nice place to sit and hear music.

2017 Estate Merlot $30

This is the wine my brother described as “Kool-Ade.” You get the merlot cherry aroma and taste, plus some nutmeg, but it is a soft, tanninless red with a flavor that evanesces. The notes call it medium bodied, but I would say light.

We enjoyed the music of The Second Hand.

2017 Estate Cabernet Franc $35

I would also call the cab light-bodied, with very slight tannins. The aroma is slightly funky, with some scent of plums. I described the taste as raspberry, but my pal said he would agree only if I twisted his arm and held him down. Ouch.

2017 Estate Petit Verdot $35

As we hear at every NoFo winery that makes a petit verdot, we are told that this grape is most often used in blends, where it lends a nice rich color. I happen to often like petit verdots, and this one is no exception. In fact, I like it the best of the wines we tasted. It has a lovely fruity aroma, and, though dry, has tastes of sweet dark fruits. Again, short on tannins. Anti-tannic, opines my husband. However, if we were going to stay and have a glass of wine while listening to the music, this is the wine I would get. Would it stand up to a steak? I don’t think so.

Cans of Bridge Lane wines are available for purchase.

I almost missed the small display of local art.

Reasons to visit: nice location on rural Oregon Road, with a pleasant outdoor space in warm weather and a classy tasting room; good menu of snacks; the Pinot Blanc and the Petit Verdot; you can also buy the reasonably priced Bridge Lane wines there, available in cans as well as bottles, etc.

Duck Walk Vineyards: Quack Quack January 12, 2019

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Absenthe, cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, chardonnay, dogs allowed outside, Duck Walk Vineyards, Malbec, merlot, Merlot Reserve, North Fork, Pinot Meunier, rose, sauvignon blanc, snacks allowed, Southampton White, White Port, wine tasting January 14, 2019

Duck Walk Vineyards: Quack Quack January 12, 2019

https://duckwalk.com/

“We’ll have to stop quacking,” joked my husband, as we finished our tasting at Duck Walk Vineyards’ North Fork tasting room. You see, the last time we went, in 2009, we disliked almost all the wines, including a red that tasted like ashes, and I had an allergic reaction (something I almost never have to Long Island wines, for some mysterious reason). So we vowed never to return, and amused ourselves by quacking derisively as we drove past. No more. Though we didn’t like all the wines, there were plenty we did enjoy, and we had a great tasting experience.

This tasting room is quite spacious, though the last time, when we came in the spring, we were in a different one that was even bigger.

Duck Walk, like Jason’s and Pindar, is owned by the Damianos family, and many of their wines are somewhat sweet for our taste, though numerous people like them. And it is a family affair, with even a third generation possibly getting ready to join the business, according to our chatty and well-informed server. It is always a plus to have a server who is really into the wines of the place where she works, and we appreciated our server’s enthusiasm for the wines and eagerness to share her preferences. She also was happy with our respectful approach to the wines, and gave us some extra tastes to show off the depth of their collection.

The tasting room we went into is to the right of the main entrance, where we had a tasting the last time, and is a smaller—though still quite large and airy—room. A long bar dominates one end, past which are French doors leading out to the vines. When we entered, a large group of young women were enjoying their tasting before heading back out to the limo, and the room became noticeably quiet when they left. In the summer, we have often seen whole fleets of limos and buses parked outside, as Duck Walk is a regular on the limo circuit (another reason we haven’t been back in a long time).

Wine and anacks for sale.

The bar includes Greenport beer on tap.

Aside from feeling it was finally time to go back, I also was intrigued to taste their Absenthe, their new after-dinner “traditional distilled spirit,” whose name echoes that of the famous Czech drink, absinthe.

Their website notes that they have snacks for sale, though we were not offered a menu, and they do allow you to bring in “light snacks.” It also says they are “pet friendly,” which I assume means in the summer, when you can sit outside.

A tasting consists of four tastes for $10, which you pay in advance. You then get four tickets, which the server collects after each drink. Since the menu includes seventeen red, white, and rosé wines, plus seven other drinks in the sparkling and dessert categories, we decided to do two tastings and share as we went along. Though you are free to choose any four, in any order, our server did give us the standard advice to drink whites before reds, and to follow the order of their listings on the menu.

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2017 Chardonnay $16.95

Since chardonnay is so ubiquitous on the North Fork, I felt we should include it in our tasting. This is their steel-fermented chard, and at the moment they do not have an oaked chard, though our server says they have had one in the past. We agree that we both prefer steel to oak. This one has a bit of a barnyard smell, and is a touch too sweet for us. It has tastes of pineapple and guava with some minerality. My tasting buddy opines that it is “wine for the skittish,” by which he means it is easy to drink if you’re not a big wine drinker.

2017 Sauvignon Blanc $18.95

Nice. I get a cut grass smell which my husband describes as “woodsy,” plus some rock or mineral. The taste is fairly typical for North Fork sauvignon blancs, lemony and grapefruity, and would be fine with oysters.

When the labels do not feature ducks they feature Gastby-themed art, like this one of what the tasting room workers jokingly named the “Hamptons hooker.”

2017 Rosé $16.95

We admire its pretty pink color and Gatsby-inspired label, which features a young woman in flapper dress standing in front of a mansion and a 1920s car. Her provocative pose has led the winery workers to dub her the “Hamptons hooker.” Made from the pinot meunier grape, this has a slightly funky aroma, plus the expected strawberry. The taste reminds me of a vodka-infused watermelon I once sampled at a party (I was young.), with some sweet strawberry and lemon notes. This would be a fine summer sipper, though it is a bit too sweet for us.

Southampton White $14.95 for 750 ml, $18.95 for 1.5 l

According to the menu, this is made from the cayuga grape, which is often used upstate. As we feared, it is too sweet for us, while also being light and not complex. I contemplate dumping the rest of our taste.

2017 Pinot Meunier $29.95

Since Duck Walk is the only vineyard that grows this grape, we decide we need to start our tasting of the reds with this wine. My tasting pal and I agree that this smells like berries, though I say blueberry and he says raspberry. It is a light, fruity summer red, good with barbequed chicken. It reminds me of a Beaujolais. This label also features an upper-crust Gatsby-esque theme, with formally clad horse riders.

2016 Cabernet Sauvignon $18.95

This cab doesn’t have much aroma or taste. There is a slightly funky smell. The wine itself is light and dry, with some tannin. It would be okay with a burger, though I generally prefer beer with burgers.

Do you see the duck reference in this picture? I got it!

2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $38.95

Power of the book strikes again! Our server, with whom we have been having enjoyable conversations about the North Fork vs. the South Fork (where she often has to travel to work in the South Fork tasting room in Water Mill), gives us an extra, a taste of the high-end cab sauv. And it is really good! Lots of dark fruit taste, the kind of tannins that make me think it could age even more, and some depth and interest.

2015 Merlot $16.95

Again, the aroma is a bit funky, plus the usual cherry smell. This is a dry, drinkable merlot, not overpowering at all. My husband says there’s “not a lot of stuff going on.” It’s a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with some cherry taste. It would be fine with pasta.

2014 Merlot Reserve $38.95

Once again, we get an extra. This time, a taste of the reserve merlot. The aroma is complex, with notes of plum, cherry, and tobacco (which my husband calls ash). However, the aroma promises more than the taste delivers, though this is a good, dry, drinkable red. Not a lot of tannins.

2015 Malbec $16.95

Although malbec is most often used as part of a mixture of grapes, I tend to enjoy it on its own as well. The color of this is a beautiful dark red, and the aroma is also dark, of dark fruits like plums. We like the taste, which is dry and tannic, with enough fruit that it would be fine to sip or have with steak.

The White Port is so new it wasn’t on the menu.

2010 White Port

I can’t tell you the price of this because it is not yet on the menu. Another extra treat! Duck Walk often features their blueberry port, which is actually made with blueberries, so this is a departure for them. The aroma is nutty, and it would actually taste good with nuts. I taste some gooseberry taste, (and then we decide that next summer when Briermere sells gooseberries we will have to buy them again). Nice after-dinner sipper.

If you like Sambuca you’ll like Absenthe.

Absenthe $29.95, $5 per taste

We happen to have a bottle of absinthe we hand imported from the Czech Republic a while ago, so as I tasted this Duck Walk version, I looked forward to comparing it to the historical drink. Supposedly, absinthe used to be made with wormwood and was highly addictive as well as causing hallucinations. That’s no longer the case, so it is safe to sip. In the Czech Republic there is a whole ceremony to drinking absinthe, involving mixing sugar and a bit of absinthe on a spoon, igniting it, and then, as the sugar liquifies, blowing out the flame (important step!) and pouring it into the glass. No sweetening is necessary with the Duck Walk Absenthe, which is quite sweet, almost syrupy, and tastes very strongly of black licorice. If you like Sambuca, you’ll like this. After I went home—and recovered from all that drinking!—I tried our absinthe. It is not at all sweet or syrupy, though it does have a licorice taste plus a beautiful green color, and is quite strong (70% alcohol).

Reasons to visit: it is winter, and you want to check out a winery that is too crowded in the summer; the Sauvignon Blanc, the Rosé, the Pinot Meunier, and the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve; they allow dogs (outside) and snacks; pretty labels; reasonable prices; beer on tap in case you’re with someone who doesn’t want wine (why?).

The Winemaker Studio: Cozy Room April 7, 2018

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Anthony Nappa, Bordo Antico, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, dogs allowed outside, Greenport Harbor Brewery, Long Island, Moustache Brewery, Nemesis, no food, North Fork, Peconic Cellar Door, Peconic Lane, Saninno Bella Vita, Semillon, Shared Table Sauvignon Blanc, The Winemake Studio, Tredici Cabernet-Merlot, White Pinot Noir, wine tasting April 10, 2018

http://winemaker-studio.com/

Anthony Nappa is the winemaker for Raphael, but he also has his own label, which he sells through the tasting room on Peconic Lane. Peconic Lane, by the way, is one of the few places on the North Fork where you don’t need a car to visit multiple wineries. If you start on Sound Avenue and head south, you can visit The Winemaker Studio, Peconic Cellar Door right next door, Sannino Bella Vita near the end, and finish with Greenport Harbor Brewing Company’s tasting room, where you can also get snacks or a meal, on the corner of Main Road.

As you look down the street, you can see Peconic Cellar Door right next to The Winemaker Studio.

The Winemaker Studio is housed in a cozy little store front site, augmented by a few outdoor tables in the summer. Some nice local art is hung on the walls. This is not a place for large groups, but if you want to taste some interesting wines with a couple of friends, this is a good spot. The menu offers five tastes for $15, and $3.50 for any additional tastes. They also always have a couple of local beers on tap, rotating the selections seasonally. Today they had one from Moustache Brewery in Riverhead and another from Greenport Harbor down the street. As our congenial and genial server noted, if he ran out he wouldn’t have far to go for a new keg.

The beer taps and a sign about their club. A member came in for a pick-up while we were there.

We decided to share one tasting, which was fine, as the servings were generous.

There were some interesting choices on the men we did not try. Maybe next time…

2016 Shared Table Sauvignon Blanc $22

Why the name, I wanted to know. Our server replied that this is a limited production wine, with only enough produced for wine club members and those who come to the Studio. The fruit is from Raphael. Nappa doesn’t have his own vineyard, and so he buys his grapes from several different growers. This wine is made from 90% sauvignon blanc and 10% semillon grapes. The aroma is vegetal, with me suggesting asparagus and my husband suggesting Brussels sprouts. The wine itself is dry, with lots of minerality and a touch of citrus at the end. My tasting buddy says that this is the style of sauvignon blanc he likes. Steel fermented, it would make a great summer wine to drink with oysters.

As you can see, this looks like a rose.

2017 White Pinot Noir $19

The menu describes this as a white wine made from red wine grapes. Or one could call it a rosé. They used to call it Anomaly, until a winery of that name in California sued them. The wine has more heft than the usual rosé, with a slightly funky aroma with some candy smells. The taste combines strawberry and citrus and minerals. We decided it would be better with food than by itself, and could stand up to more flavorful foods than a typical rosé. We buy a bottle to have with barbeque this summer.

2017 Bordo Antico $25

We were interested to taste this one for several reasons. It is made from certified organic grapes, grown in Calverton, though the wine itself is not completely organic, since they do add some sulfites. Also, it is aged in steel rather than oak. Made from 100% cabernet franc grapes, it is a light refreshing red and would, we suggested, be perfect with barbequed chicken. Our server agreed, and noted that he sometimes serves this chilled, like a white. The aroma is intriguing, with a touch of forest floor. The wine is dry, with some minerality, and not tons of fruit.

2014 Nemesis Pinot Noir $35

Served in a bottle with an ominous black label, the wine is simply named nemesis because the pinot noir grape is notoriously difficult to grow on Long Island. If you’re interested in learning about growing conditions on Long Island, and why it is better or worse for certain grapes, you might enjoy reading the page on the Winemaker web site titled “Growing Conditions.” On it, Nappa evaluates in detail each season since his arrival here in 2007. The grapes for this one come from Macari and Peconic Bay (which no longer makes its own wines). We like the aroma, which combines dark fruit and spice and tobacco. We also like the wine, which had some cherry flavor. It’s also a tad on the light side, so I wouldn’t pair it with steak, but it has some acidity and spice with might go well with lamb chops.

2013 Tredici Cabernet-Merlot $35

To say 2013 and Tredici is somewhat of a tautology, since the name refers to the year in which the grapes were harvested. And a very good year it was. A blend of 67% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, 18% cabernet sauvignon, aged in French oak, this is my favorite wine of the day. Fruity kazooty, I say. Well, I did mention that the servings were generous. Lots of rich fruit flavors and enough tannins that I’m sure, as our server points out, it could age for several more years. I could drink a lot of this. Yum. We buy a bottle.

In the summer they put tables and chairs like this outside.

Reasons to visit: pleasant intimate setting; all the wines, but especially the White Pinot Noir and the Tredici; no food, but you can go down the street to the Greenport Harbor Brewing Company afterwards; beer for a non-wine-drinking friend; dogs are allowed outside in the summer; knowledgeable and genial server with a real passion for the wines; we are served glasses of water along with our tasting, a nice touch; Peconic Lane and its mini winery-walking tour.

Organic wines!

NoFo Wineaux

Wine notes from Long Island's North Fork

Tag Archives: dogs allowed outside

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Pugliese Vineyards: Memories of Italy

Greenport Harbor Brewing Company: An Impromptu Stop

Coffee Pot Cellars: Time for a Chat

RG/NY: A Shared Aesthetic January 17, 2020

Greenport Harbor Brewery: Summer Sippers June 14, 2019

Lieb Cellars: Well, the Setting is Pleasant April 27, 2019

Duck Walk Vineyards: Quack Quack January 12, 2019

The Winemaker Studio: Cozy Room April 7, 2018