July 15, 2022
Looking like a villa in Tuscany, the Raphael tasting room sits on the Main Road in Peconic. A covered veranda in the back looks out onto the grape vines, and the warm weather this week made it really feel like Italy. We drove in past the miniature villa gateposts, around the Italianate fountain, and parked in the lot. Through heavy wooden doors that would not be out of place on a palazzo we went, entering a huge space where a disembodied voice said, “Welcome!”
The voice soon materialized into a young woman, who cheerily asked us if we wanted to sit inside or outside. Noting that there was plenty of room to be socially distant from other tasters, we opted to sit inside at a table facing outside, where she left us with a couple of menus.
As we perused the menus, she returned with two bottles of Poland Spring water. I no longer buy bottled water, but these would be convenient for the future. It was lunch time, and on a previous visit we’d had very good flatbread pizzas. However, they no longer have them (or at least, not during the week), and the menu features a selection of cheeses, crackers, hummus, etc., all a la carte (so if you want crackers with your cheese, you need to order them). We also noticed that every tasting comes with a “snack.” “What is that?” we asked. “Sort of a grown-ups Lunchables,” she replied. Ah. We decided to add a serving of hummus ($8) and tortilla chips ($10), most of which we ended up taking home, as the chips were a huge bag and the humus a 10-ounce container (very good, by the way). The snack was indeed quite mini, consisting of about four crackers and as many slices of bland cheese, plus some slices of spicy sausage. However, it did remind us of how in Italy one is often served some sort of snack with a glass of wine, like a dish of olives, or like the time in Bologna when there were three of us sharing a bottle of wine, and the waiter brought a plate of cheeses and sausages (no charge).
Meanwhile, we were debating over which flight to get, as they have six different options. We could see by looking at other tables that the serving per taste is quite generous, but we wanted to try a panoply of wines, so we decided to just plan not to finish each glass, and get a flight of four whites for $25 and four reds for $25. Both flights were brought to our table on labeled strips of paper. Our waitress launched into her little scripted speech about each wine, enlivened by her personal preferences, with which we agreed. For example, we had a little chat about riesling, which she noted she sometimes dislikes as too sweet, but felt the current iteration of Raphael’s riesling is one she likes. I was a bit concerned when she described a couple of the reds as “summer reds,” and when I tasted them I saw why.
As we sat and sipped and munched and looked out at the vines, my tasting buddy said that Raphael gets an A+ for service and setting. As to the wines…
- 2021 Rosé of Pinot Noir $30
Our server explained that this is a “true” rosé, made from red wine grapes treated like white grapes. It is a pretty color, and had a pleasantly fruity aroma. We liked the taste, too, with notes of citrus and black cherry, not too sweet, not too dry. A good summer sipper.
- 2021 Sauvignon Blanc $30
All their whites are fermented in steel, which sometimes leaves a slightly metallic aroma, which this has. It is a touch petillant, crisp and light. A little fruity. Nice.
- 2021 Pinot Grigio $30
In France, they call this grape pinot gris. We like this wine the best so far, with a taste of baked pears. Not much aroma. Good for sipping or with food, like roast chicken, or even pork chops.
- 2021 Riesling $30
Many rieslings have a smell described as “cat pee,” which, having had a cat in the past, I can say this one has, though faintly. There is some sweetness here, but there is also a bit of a funkiness which takes the edge off the sweetness. Pleasant. Though my husband finds it too sweet for him, I think it would be fine with something spicy, like Thai food.
- 2019 Cabernet Franc $36
This is one of the wines she described as “summery,” and I think I know why. It is soft and fresh and easy to drink, with slight tannins, a berry aroma, and tastes of ripe dark fruits.
- 2019 Pinot Noir $50
“Not a very exciting red,” opines my drinking pal, and I agree. It’s not bad, just kind of mellow and soft. When I tell him the price, he says, “We’re not getting it!” He also thinks that people may not, in general, want strong reds, which would account for the popularity of a wine like this.
- 2019 Estate Merlot $30
As our waitress noted, we are in the middle of merlot country here, as that grape is “happy” on the North Fork. This is a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with nice cherry flavor, but ultimately meh.
- 2020 Estate Malbec $36
This is my favorite of the reds, with a beautiful dark color, yummy fruit aroma, and dark fruit tastes—though again, no tannins. “It’s not oomphy,” says my husband, and I agree.
Reasons to visit: beautiful building and veranda, with vineyard views; attentive service; generous pour for the flights; the whites more than the reds, though all the wines were drinkable; the Rosé of Pinot Noir, the Pinot Grigio, the Malbec; nice place to come with a couple of friends.
NoFo Wineaux 