Bridge Lane: Sunshine and Rainbows

August 30, 2024

Though Bridge Lane is close to where we live, we hadn’t been there since 2021, so when a nice afternoon with no plans presented itself, we decided to head there.  It’s been a frustrating summer for weather, sometimes too hot, other times too cold, and surprisingly rainy.  I’ve turned off my automatic sprinkling system several times, figuring why pay for water (and deplete the aquifer), when Mother Nature is being so generous.  But this Labor Day weekend afternoon was sunny and warm, without being too warm, so off we went.

The tasting room is on the corner of Sound Avenue and Cox Neck Road, but is screened from the traffic with vegetation and walls, making the outside rainbow-striped tables feel sheltered.  We were the only ones there for a while, until a large family arrived, bearing children and picnic food.  They apologized for invading “our” space! 

On this quiet afternoon we entered the small tasting room and ordered a single tasting to be shared, and the pleasant young women behind the bar quickly filled six glasses (for $18, up only three dollars since three years ago) on a tray, and handed it to us to bring outside ourselves.  One interesting feature here is that five of the six, excepting only the pinot noir, were filled from taps, not bottles.  Which reminds me to mention that wine here can be ordered by the glass, can, bottle, box, or, believe it or not, keg, which gives me a whole new image of a kegger (rosé for a bachelorette party?).  Last time we were here, our guests bought a couple of boxes to take home, and seemed happy with their purchase. 

Unlike in the past, they now offer snacks for sale, a “sweet board” and a “salty board,” both featuring an array of snacks for $28, plus the ubiquitous bags of North Fork potato chips (great chips, by the way).  They still allow outside food, and pups are welcome at the outside tables if kept leashed. By the way, right across Cox Neck is a little shopping center, featuring a deli and a gourmet take-out food shop, and perhaps some day, if it ever opens, a pizza place.  (Check the hours for Wendy’s Deli and Ali Katz, since neither is open every day.)

Note that there are a couple of non-alcoholic beverages for the designated driver, etc.

Having just had lunch, we skipped the snacks and carried our tray of tastes outside, to sit at one of the rainbow-striped picnic tables, nicely shaded by an umbrella, and began our tasting. Music of the “Margaritaville” genre played softly in the background. 

Each glass sat atop a brief description of the wine inside it.  All the wines are $20 per bottle.

  •  White Merlot

But, you may object, isn’t merlot a red wine grape?  Yes, indeed it is, but if you don’t let the juice ferment with the skin, you can get white or rosé, depending on how much contact with the skin it has.  This was actually our favorite of the day, a light, pleasant white, with an aroma of citrus and honeysuckle.  I think it tastes like pink grapefruit; a bit acidic but also smooth, says my tasting buddy.  Now if only we had a dozen oysters…

  • Sauvignon Blanc

Another simple wine, with a funky aroma of crushed ferns (trust me on this, I have a whole garden bed full of ferns), neither sweet nor very dry.  I taste pear and lime, though the tasting notes suggest melon.  I’ve recently been enjoying the ripe melons from the farm stand, and this does not taste like any of them.

  • Chardonnay

“I’ve had better,” notes my fellow taster, and I agree.  This is a very light and simple chard, with maybe some Granny Smith apple taste.  Almost no aroma.

The rose on a pink stripe.
  • Rosé

The little label under the glass says, “Notes of guava and peach blossom.”  I’ve never eaten a peach blossom, but I have had guavas.  Maybe an underripe guava?  This is another very light and easy to drink wine.

  • Red Blend

There’s no information as to which wines are in this blend, but I’m pretty sure, given the aroma and taste of cherry, that there’s plenty of merlot in there.  It is dry, with some tannins.  I say I taste plums, but my buddy says, “Plums would be pushing it.”

And a caterpillar on a green stripe!
  • Pinot Noir

This wine has a bit more to it, with tastes of blackberry and pomegranate, quite tannic and dry.  They say strawberry, which I do not taste.  For the price, this is not bad, and if I were to sit here with a slice of pizza (c’mon, pizzeria, open up), this is the wine I’d get.

We did not explore, but there are some games in the background.

Reasons to visit:  low-key pleasant setting; dogs, children, and outside snacks allowed; very reasonable prices; the white merlot and the pinot noir; wines available by the keg(!), or other more conventional containers.

All done! Just the right amount of wine for the two of us.

Main & Mill House: Old House, New Look

http://www.mainandmillhouse.com

August 5, 2024

The view from the parking lot.

As we drove past the corner of Main Street and Mill Lane, we noticed a fair amount of construction, plus new vineyards all along Mill, and now we know why.  The owners of Rose Hill and Croteaux are expanding their wine empire with new vines and a new production facility to supply their new tasting room, which is in the 1870-era house that used to be the home of Sherwood House Winery.  Though the layout of the main room is similar to what it had been, with couches flanking a fireplace and a bar along one wall, the look is very different, thanks to Lumber & Salt.  If you have been to other projects of theirs, like the Terra Vite tasting room, you won’t be surprised to learn that the design features re-used architectural elements from other places. 

The fireplace and couches are still in the same spots, but they look quite different.
Past the carafe of water (welcome on this hot day), you can see the new bar.

The outside areas, both front and back, have also been redone, with attractive seating and well-placed umbrellas and sun shades.  However, on this quiet Monday, it was too hot to sit outside, so we opted to sit in a comfortable corner of the tasting room. When we were done we thought about browsing the William Ris Gallery, which is adjacent to the winery, but decided we were ready to head home.

The front seating area.
The back deck.

Our server, Margot, greeted us cheerfully and noted we could sit wherever we chose.  She also pointed out the QR code on the table, which led us to the menu.  They have two tastings, $30 each, of five wines, labeled “Main” and “Mill.”  I could see that some of the wines in each were also available at Croteaux or Rose Hill, so I chose Main, which seemed to have more wines that were new to me, since we had recently been to Rose Hill, and we’ve often been to Croteaux, though not so far this summer. 

They also have a rather eclectic menu of snacks, from $5 for a bag of North Fork potato chips to $90 for “Gourmet Tater Poppers & Caviar,” “crispy tots with Osetra caviar & crème fraiche.”  Really? More practically, they also list several non-alcoholic drinks, including a Shirley Temple.

Another seating area.

The tastes, a fairly generous pour, came in a round tray, with labels under each little glass explaining the wine on top of it.  As we sat and sipped and chatted, Margot made sure to check on us just the right number of times, and answer any questions we had.  Overall, my tasting buddy said he was “not excited” by the offerings.  Nothing was bad, but also nothing made us sit up and take notice. On the other hand, they are new, so we’ll be interested to see how the wines develop over the years.

  1.  2023 Daisy        $38

Our first wine is made from grapes from the new vineyards on Mill Lane, and was actually our favorite of the day.  It is made from sauvignon blanc grapes, and is light, with tastes of citrus and peach, slightly tingly on the tongue.  Surprisingly complex. It would be great with oysters. 

  • 2023 Palmilla   $34

In June we had this wine at Rose Hill, and liked it.  It is a blend of gewürztraminer, albariño, chardonnay, and pinot grigio.  Though it has very little aroma, it has plenty of tropical fruit and orange tastes, and has enough interest to be served as an aperitif wine, perhaps with an array of charcuterie.

The rose.
  • 2022 Merlot 181             $34

The number 181 refers to the clone of merlot used in this Croteaux rosé.  This is a fairly typical rosé, with a faint strawberry aroma and taste, plus some citrus.  Dry.

  • 2022 Rumor      $38

This red, made from cabernet franc, is so light that I wondered if it had been steel fermented, but Margot informed us that it had indeed been oaked, but only briefly.  It has a slight fruit aroma, perhaps of cherry, and a taste of pomegranates.

  • 2021 XXI             $34

No surprise, if you can read Roman numerals, the name of the wine refers to the year it was harvested.  This is a Bordeaux blend, of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and malbec, with an aroma of mixed fruits, but not much flavor.  However, it was a bit cold when served, and as it sat it got better, with dark fruit and berry tastes. 

Reasons to visit:  small elegant winery, with ample outside seating and a cozy vibe in the winter; it’s new; you want tater tots with caviar 😊; Daisy and Palmilla.

This is a rather elaborate sculpture/fountain. Not sure if it belongs to the tasting room or the gallery.

Rose Hill Vineyards: Change Can Be Good

June 9, 2024

When Rose Hill was Shinn, I liked the somewhat hippie-ish vibe it had, a bit off the beaten path, on Oregon Road (allegedly so named because it was so far away it might as well have been in Oregon—really, it’s not that far).  However, the changes have been improvements, with a lovely shaded patio for outside tastings, plus a much larger indoor room for cold or rainy days.  There’s now a large area of lawn set up with tables as well. 

Roses for Rose Hill

When you enter the parking area from Oregon Road, you will see four parking spots reserved for the overnight guests of the Inn, plus a pebbled lot for everyone else.  The parking used to be around the back, but no more, though that is where you’ll find the entrance to the tasting room.  We were cheerfully greeted by one of several pleasant young women who circulated around the patio, and told we could choose whichever table we liked.  We picked a table for the four of us that was well shaded, and settled down to read the menu, which one acquires via a QR code embedded in the table top. 

The menu offers three different flights:  the Estate Flight, of five varied wines for $30, the Summer Flight, of five whites and a rosé for $30, and a Red Flight of five reds, also $30.  We decided we would get the Estate and Summer flights, as there was no overlap, and requested extra glasses so we could share the generous tastes.  We also ordered a sparkling pink lemonade for our designated driver, which he said was quite good. 

We assumed this is an outside bar, which can be used in the summer if it gets crowded.

Since it was lunchtime, we also perused the menu of “Light Bites,” and settled on the Mediterranean Board, for $32, thinking if it was not enough food we might order something else.  However, as it happened, the serving of three dips—a hummus, a goat cheese and sweet red pepper puree, and a yogurt somewhat like a tzatziki—with toasted pita triangles and some breadsticks, plus black and green olives, was plenty, especially since we asked for and got some additional pita triangles when, as so often happens, we ran out of dippers before dips.  We liked all three very much.

Somehow I forgot to take a photo of the dips, but here are our extra bread sticks!

Our attentive waitress brought us a large bottle of chilled water with compostable plastic cups, and happily answered all the questions we had, though she had to ask someone else to tell us why the winery is called Rose Hill.  Apparently, the owners used to live on a street called Rose Hill. 

Our table.

Since I tried all the wines, the following list includes all ten, with the wines from the Estate Flight first, except for the last two, when we tried the Merlot after the Rosé.  At the end, we decided we’d like to try one more wine, while we finished off the last of our dips, and the waitress recommended the 2020 Cadence, a lovely red we found tasty and very drinkable, though not worth $45.  The menu also offers a port and a brandy.

The Estate Flight
  •  2022 Brut Rosé              $48

This sparkling wine, made using the méthode champenoise, has a lovely aroma of toast and red berries, with some berry and lemon taste.  Very nice.

The Summer Flight, and very light and summery it was.
  • 2022 First Fruit                $28

A steel-fermented sauvignon blanc, this is a very light white, with an interesting aroma of almond extract.  We could see having this with—believe it or not—ice cubes in it, on a very hot day, as it is refreshing but not very flavorful.

  • 2023 Concrete Blonde                $48

Why concrete?  I was able to answer this question, as I have learned that, in addition to steel and wood, wine can be fermented in a concrete “egg,” which I find adds some depth and interest to whites without the oakiness I dislike.  We all like this one, which had just a touch of sweetness and much more body than the other sauvignon blanc.  My friend pronounces this “versatile,” and we agree that you could pair it with cheeses, fruits, seafood, or chicken.  Very nice to drink on its own, as well.

Beneath each glass are tasting notes.
  • 2023 Palmilla   $34

I forgot to ask about the name, but this is a blend of albariño, gewürztraminer, sauvignon blanc, sémillon, and chardonnay.  It smells like oranges, and tastes like various tropical fruits.  We like it.

Water! Very welcome on this warm day.
  • 2022 Albariňo                  $65

My friend and I, who often agree about all sorts of things, agree about albariño as well—it is a wine we often order when, for example, we are in a wine bar and want to get a glass of something.  What I like about albariño is that it is never too sweet, and usually has some pleasant citrus tastes without being too tart.  This is fairly classic, though over-priced.

  •  Rose Hill Rosé $30

Most rosés around here taste and smell like strawberries, which this one does, too, with a slightly woodsy aroma as well.  Pleasant.

  • 2023 Riesling    $28

There’s a reason why I never order a riesling unless I’ve tasted it, since they are often too sweet for me, and this one, though it is described as “off dry,” is a perfect example of why that is a wise policy.  “Horrible,” says my pal.  “Smells like candy,” I note.  Yes, it is sweet.

  • 2022 Merlot 3 Rosé                      $30

The menu notes that this is a Croteaux rosé, and I remember that the same people who bought Shinn also bought Croteaux, which only makes rosés.  This is an extremely light rosé, almost white, very dry, with not much flavor.

  • 2020 Estate Merlot        $34

Though this has the usual cherry aroma of North Fork merlots, the flavor is very light and dry, with almost no fruit, “more like a pinot noir,” opines my friend.  Just okay.

The merlot.
The glass of Cadence we ordered to sip as we finished our dips. It is a blend of merlot and petit verdot.

Reasons to visit:  lovely patio; excellent service; good snacks; the Concrete Blonde (no blond jokes!), the Palmilla, the Albariňo, and the Cadence.

I peeked into the inside room, just to see what it was like. Looks nice.

McCall Wines: Cherries for the Win

April 19, 2024

Ornamental cherry trees line the road to the tasting room.

Cherries for the win?  Have I been playing slot machines?  Nope, just going to a winery during cherry blossom season.  As we walked towards the entrance to McCall’s winery with our friends, the winery aficionados, we paused to admire the blooms on some ornamental cherry trees, noting that the Greenport cherry blossom festival was scheduled for Saturday.  Then, as a nosh with our tastings, we got the fruit and nut tray, on which the star was definitely the juicy dried cherries.  (At $10 I thought it was a bit overpriced.)  And, as we were leaving, I commented that those dried cherries were the star of the day.  Were the wines bad?  No, just underwhelming. 

We had already made some inroads in the nut and fruit tray, but it was still a small serving.

We were headed to a tasting for the second time this week to take advantage of Locals Week.  About twenty-two wineries were offering two for the price of one tastings, with some also featuring 10-15% off bottles of wine.  It seems that no one checks your id, by the way, so even if you are not local you can probably safely enjoy these deals next spring. 

Miguel behind the bar, with a photo of Theodore Roosevelt over his shoulder.

McCall has a cool little tasting room that began life as a stable, and still has stalls, repurposed as nooks for tables, with all sorts of farming bric-a-brac decorating the walls.  We also noted a display of articles about Theodore Roosevelt, and wondered about the connection.  Miguel, the general manager, was manning the bar, and he explained that Russ McCall admired President Roosevelt for his dedication to conservation, a cause Mr. McCall also champions.

This is just a small sample of all the “stuff” on the walls.

The room was also cool in temperature, and we kept our jackets on, even after Miguel turned on a little stove heater next to us. 

We ordered two tastings, with each couple sharing one, and Miguel brought us the wine in little carafes, plus glasses.  He also brought us a bottle of chilled water and some cups, always a nice touch.  We decided to both get the Rouge Flight, of three wines for $25, so we could compare notes as we sipped and chatted.

  •  2016 Estate Pinot Noir                $30

“I much prefer pinot noir from Oregon,” our friend, who has been to several wineries in Oregon, noted.  This wine has the sweet aroma of Cheracol, a cough medicine much favored by my mother when I was little, but is dry, with slight tannins.  It has a bit of a cherry taste, but is not very interesting.  “Okay, but not spectacular,” opined my tasting buddy.

This may look like a lot of wine for one tasting. That’s because our server misunderstood when we ordered, and thought we wanted four flights, not two. Very nicely, he only charged us for what we had ordered.
  • 2016 Estate Merlot        $24

This was our favorite of the day, a fairly typical North Fork merlot, dry, with some taste of not quite ripe plums.  We discussed the prevalence of merlot and chardonnay on the North Fork, figuring they grew well here.  Perhaps the pinot noir grapes are not as happy here as in Oregon?

  • 2018 Field Blend             $26

I assume “Field Blend” means all the grapes for this blend are grown in the same field.  According to their website, this is a blend of 75% merlot, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot, and 5% cabernet franc.  It has lots of red fruit taste and a slightly funky aroma.  It’s fine, but, again, not exciting.

One of the cozy nooks created by the old stable configuration.

Reasons to visit:  pleasant, quiet tasting room; dogs allowed; burger night, which will recommence on May 16th “and continue every Thursday and Friday 4-8 pm through the summer”; the Estate Merlot.  Burger night features delicious burgers made with beef from the Charolais cattle the McCalls raise, and has become quite popular.  Make reservations if you want to go!  I wrote about it in my blog on August 3, 2023.

No bud break yet!

Sparkling Pointe: Perks of Being a Local

April 15, 2024

It was too nice to stay indoors, though the tasting room is quite attractive.

We were not celebrating tax day, but rather “Locals Week” in the wineries.  So we called up our friends the winery aficionados and headed to Sparkling Pointe, where they were offering two tastings for the price of one.  Since both couples prefer to split tastings, it worked out perfectly.

A view of the terrace and our first taste, an easy-to-drink rosé.

The weather, in this fickle month of April, was also perfect, warm and sunny, so we opted to sit outside on their lovely terrace overlooking the vineyard. As soon as we settled ourselves, a waitress appeared with four glasses of their NV (non-vintage) Cuvée Carnaval Rosé, a “welcome toast” offered to everyone.  More about that later. 

After we told our waitress that we would be getting the two-for-one flights, the “Grand Tasting Flight,” ($25 for four tastes) plus a package of Z Crackers ($6), which were slim and light and salty, we began chatting.   It had been a while since we were out together, so there was plenty to talk about, plus we always enjoy discussing various winery issues, such as price points. For example, we wonder whether North Fork wines tend to cost more than some similar wines from elsewhere due to the high cost of living on the Fork.

Tom Rosicki, the owner, with his wife Cynthia, of Sparkling Pointe.

As we were chatting, a tall blond man came over to our table, and introduced himself as Tom Rosicki, one of the owners.  We asked him about the Brazilian connection evident in the “Carnaval” names of some of his wines and some of the décor of the tasting room and shop.  He said that he and his wife Cynthia, the inspiration for the name of his new favorite of their wines, had gone to Rio and fallen in love with the place and the people.  Carnaval is a reference to what they call Mardi Gras in New Orleans, or Fat Tuesday, and is a huge celebration in Rio, with elaborate parades and costumes.  “Guess how many times I’ve been there?” he asked.  “Twenty?”  Nope.  “Sixty-three!  And we’re going again next week.”  He also pointed out a statue far away at the end of a row of vines, and informed us that it is a (small) replica of the famous Christ the Redeemer statue which has become a symbol of Rio, like the Eiffel Tower for Paris.

The colorful painting over the bar is all about Carnaval.

After he left our table, I wondered if his chattiness had anything to do with my notebook, but he then ambled over to the other tables on the terrace and visited with everyone else who was there.  So I guess he just enjoys visiting with his guests.  By the way, he also offered that the winery is a popular wedding venue.

At the end of the row, you can just make out the statue.

Sparkling Pointe, as hinted in the name, only offers sparkling wines, which they can’t call champagnes, since only wines made in the Champagne region of France can bear that name, but the wines are made using the méthode champenoise, a traditional, hands-on method that produces champagne-like wines.  Though we liked some of the wines better than others, and had some differences of opinion, overall we enjoyed the experience.

  1. NV Cuvée Carnaval Rosé           ($36)

A blend of 39% pinot noir, 27% chardonnay, and 34% merlot, this is a good choice for a first impression, as it is definitely a crowd pleaser.  It has the expected strawberry aroma and taste of a rosé, plus beautiful bubbles.  It is dry, but not too dry, with a pleasant fruitiness.

2.  2019 Brut          ($31)

I have had the opportunity to taste many variations on champagne, from a rather awful libation called Cold Duck to vintage Dom Perignon.  This falls somewhere in the middle, more towards the Dom Perignon side of the range.  Another blend, this time of 50% chardonnay, 36% pinot noir, and 14% pinot meunier, this tastes like a classic champagne, dry, with tastes of apple and pear, and it also has the characteristic yeasty aroma of sparkling wines, caused, I’ve been told, by the second fermentation in the bottle.  I like it.

3. 2021 Topaz Impérial Brut Rosé               ($44)

The waitress pours the last of the bottle into our glasses, and we wonder whether we are underwhelmed by this wine because it has been open too long.  It has barely any bubbles, and not much taste.  We much prefer the Carnaval Rosé (which is also cheaper).  This wine blends 45% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir, and 15% pinot meunier.

This label is another nod to Brazil.

4. 2018 Blanc de Blancs                  ($48)    

True to its name, this is 100% chardonnay.  We enjoy its warm yeasty aroma and tastes of apples and toast.  The waitress mentions starfruit, but we’re not sure what that tastes like.  As I recall, starfruit’s appearance is more dramatic than its taste.  Nicely dry.  I like this, too.

5. NV Cuvée Carnaval Blancs        (30)

If you read my blog, you know I prefer dry wines to sweet ones, though I do make an exception for dessert wines.  This is not quite as sweet as a dessert wine, but it is a bit sweet for my taste.  It is a blend, again, of 47% pinot noir, 28% chardonnay, 23% merlot, and 2% muscat.  Though muscat is such a small percentage of the mix, our friend wonders whether it contributes to the sweetness.  I taste thyme honey and citrus. 

The little gift shop has some Carnaval costumes and masks, and also some of the snack items for sale.

Reasons to visit:  you like sparkling wines (duh!); lovely patio and attractive tasting room; the Cuvée Carnaval Rosé and the 2019 Brut, in particular, though the only one we really did not care for was the Topaz Impérial Brut Rosé; no outside food allowed, but they do have a nice menu of cheeses and charcuterie and other snacks.  No pets, and they request that children stay seated.

RGNY: On a Winter’s Day

February 19, 2024

It is quiet on the North Fork in February. Snow fences stretch across fields, farm stands have “See you in the Spring” signs, and roadside platforms have little stacks of firewood, $5 per pile. However, our visitors found plenty to do, including a trip to Tanger and an odyssey to the end of the island, where we had a cold, windy, but invigorating hike along the trail in Orient Point County Park and participated in the Great Backyard Bird Count (34 seagulls, three little ducks, and two immature cormorants).

The end of the North Fork and some birds.

Then it was time to do a wine tasting.  Where to go?  I realized we hadn’t been to RGNY since 2021, and it is close to our house, so off we went.  The main entrance now seems to be the one to the right, as you face the building, so we opened that door and were greeted by John, whom I recognized from other wineries!  He quickly showed our party of six (4 adults, 2 children) to a nice round table in the high-ceilinged, wood-beamed tasting room (which one young guest noted “smells like wood”—sort of like a cabin on a lake), where a QR code on the table sent us to the menus.    

Don’t be fooled by that sunshine; it was cold outside!

There is a fairly typical menu of snacks, with more substantial choices available on the weekend, but we had just had a delicious and very filling lunch of sandwiches from Ammirati (on Love Lane in Mattituck), so we went straight to the menu of flights.  There are four choices of flights, all featuring four wines: the RG Reserve for $34, the Scielo for $24, the White Wine for $27, or the I (Heart) NY for $27.  Since the last one includes non-North Fork wines, we opted for the first three, planning to do some sharing of tastes.  Well, even with sharing we left some wine in the glasses, because you get a VERY generous pour there.  The youngsters in the group were not forgotten, as Donna, our pleasant waitress, offered them glasses of orange juice—served in tall sparkling-wine glasses—as they had leftover OJ from a brunch on Sunday (no charge!).

Donna gave us a quick overview of the wines in our tastings—there were a couple of overlaps—and then left us to ourselves, checking back at regular intervals.  At the end, we had an interesting discussion with John about the wine philosophy of RGNY—low intervention, nature-friendly practices.  Overall, there were no wines we disliked, and several we liked very much, though our group had some differences of opinion (As the French say, to each his own.).

Some of the special events that are available at RGNY.

I started out trying to keep the wines from each tasting separate, but that didn’t work out, so here are the wines as I took note of them.

Tiny cacti decorate every table, perhaps a nod to the Mexican origins of the Rivero Gonzalez family.
  •  NV Sparkling Rosé        $41

I like starting a tasting with a sparkler, as it feels very festive.  This has the typical rosé aroma and flavor of strawberry, and is dry, with definite minerality and tiny bubbles.  There’s also a slight flowery aroma.  This is a pleasant, cocktail-time bubbly, though I think the price is a bit high.

The Reserve flight
  • 2021 Sauvignon Blanc  $29

“Melon on the nose,” says one of our guests, and I agree, though I try to eschew “wine words.”  Speaking of “eschew,” he also describes the wine as a bit chewy.  It has more body than one would expect from a sauvignon blanc, with what I describe as a silky mouth feel, and a taste of lemon zest.  It is aged in neutral oak. I like it, but our other guest says her appreciation of this wine is lessened due to “unmet expectations,” as it lacks the grassiness she likes in New Zealand sauvignon blancs.  Not being a cow, I’m perfectly happy to drink this. 

  • 2022 Sparkling Riesling               $31

However, she very much likes this next wine, a cloudy (because not disgorged) sparkler with lemon/lime and kiwi flavor, very dry.  I am not as fond of it, but agree it would be good with some local oysters (like the Peconic Bay ones we had the night before) or even fried calamari or fish and chips.

The Scielo flight
  • 2021 Viognier    $41

Donna explained to us that most of the wines here that are aged in wood are aged in second use (also described as neutral) oak barrels, which means that the wood plays less of a role in the taste of the wines than if they had used new barrels.  Though this is only slightly oaked, which smooths it out, it also has not much taste.  I say it is inoffensive.

  • 2019 Riesling    $28

I will almost never order a riesling unless I have tasted it before, since they can be too sweet for me, but this is a riesling I would order.  It is dry, with pleasant minerality and some taste of herbs.  We discuss the typical “cat pee” smell, which one guest suggests could more appetizingly be described as “musky.”  I compare it to the smell of water in which cut flowers have sat perhaps a day too long.  Fortunately, it doesn’t taste like that!

The White Flight: note the cloudiness of the Sparkling Riesling on the left.
  • 2019 White Merlot         $38

We have quite a divergence of opinion on this wine, a white wine made from red wine grapes (Wine color comes from the grape skins, so if you don’t let red wine grape juice sit on the skins at all, you get white wine; sit briefly, rosé; longer, reds.).  My husband doesn’t like it at all, I think it is nice, and one guest notes it has some of that “Long Island foxiness” one used to get more frequently with merlots.  It does have lots of flavor, including some earthiness and an aftertaste of mandarin orange.

  • 2021 Rosé          $25

Strawberry aroma and flavor, light, dry, minerality, pleasant…I say meh.  Still prefer Croteaux!

  • 2022 Pinot Noir               $41

Because this is fermented in steel, not oak, it has a pure, clean taste.  It has a light red color, with surprisingly nice tannins and an aroma and flavor of cherries.  I say this is easy to drink, and it would go well with roast duck, one of our mutual favorite dishes.  Our guest agrees, and notes that “pinot noir and duck are best friends.”

  • 2022 Tinto          $31

Donna rattled off all the grapes in this blend, but I don’t remember them all, or the proportions:  cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec, etc.  This is a lovely red, very refined, with flavors of blackberry and currant, and lots of tannins.  This could definitely stand up to a hearty beef stew, or even a burger.  I could see ordering it if it appeared on a wine list.

The little gift shop features some objets from Mexico.

Reasons to visit: spacious tasting rooms, plus ample outdoor areas; child-friendly atmosphere (we were not the only ones there with youngsters); some very good wines, all very drinkable; I especially liked the White Merlot, the Pinot Noir, and the Tinto, while our guests bought to take home the Sparkling Riesling and the Pinot Noir; very generous pour; good menu of snacks and other dishes.  If you do the math, you may be wondering how we had three tastings of four wines each, and I only ended up describing nine of them.  Some wines appeared in more than one tasting!

Here’s a great gift idea–a “blending kit,” so one can produce one’s own blended red. Like a chemistry kit for grown-ups, noted John, who nodded when I compared it to the blend-your-own gin experience at Matchbook Distilling Company.

Matchbook Distilling Company: And Now for Something Somewhat Different

November 11, 2023

A walk around Greenport is always interesting.  We like to window shop, check out the new stores and art galleries (of which there are several), read the menus in restaurant windows, watch the ferry come in, and check out who else is wandering around.  This time, we just wanted to have a bit of a walk and enjoy a beautiful fall day (finally!) with our visitors from Connecticut, before taking them to Matchbook Distilling Company for a tour and tasting.

The unassuming entrance is easy to miss.

Although one could walk to 230 Corwin Street from the main part of town, we opted to drive and park in their parking lot.  The GPS told us we had arrived at our destination before we came to the parking area, but fortunately we had been there once before and knew to continue a little further.  Matchbook is located inside a former boat building facility, which is evident once you are on the tour by the high ceiling of the distilling area. 

One view of the distillery.

From the parking lot you walk into the tasting room, an airy space only open on Saturdays from 1-6, with a few small tables and comfy stools at the bar.  The room is decorated with bottles and bottles of their products, plus blackboards listing cocktails.  A panoramic display of their current offerings, by my count over thirty, is displayed on the bar.  We were lucky enough to be greeted by Paul, one of the owners, who enthusiastically explained what they do and carefully curated our tastings based on what we told him of our likes and dislikes. 

Paul was an excellent guide to the varied products they make and how they make them.

That was fortunate, because otherwise I don’t know how we would have chosen our three “Pick Your Sips” samples ($25).  As it was, we ended up with nine different tastes, which we shared (our group included our designated driver, who sniffed but did not sip), some of which we liked very much, and others we were not so crazy about. 

Shoveling Jerusalem artichokes into a still.

But before I get to the tasting, I should tell you about the tour, which took about fifteen minutes, and is free for the asking (I was told on the phone that I did not need a reservation.).  Through a double door you walk into an airy, sparkling clean warehouse area, with pot stills of varying sizes and all sorts of equipment.  A pair of workers were shoveling roasted Jerusalem artichokes into a still preparatory to making Late Embers, their mezcal-like liquor.  (That combined with their Elsewhere Blood Orange liqueur would make quite a margarita.)  You need to get someone with a better background in chemistry to explain it to you, but apparently Jerusalem artichokes and agave both produce inulin, which is what you need to make mezcal.  However, unlike agave, Jerusalem artichokes (which are not at all like artichokes), grow profusely and can actually be invasive.  Matchbook was in the midst of processing some 3,000 pounds they had gotten from an organic farm on the South Fork.     

They also use organic grains for their whiskeys, and try to make use of various excess materials from the farms and vineyards of the North Fork.  Paul commented that they were very fond of being on the North Fork, both for its rural peace and the availability of produce.  One example he gave was how a winery may have an off year, and end up with a wine they do not care to bottle under their own label.  However, through the magic of distilling and other processes, that so-so wine can be transformed into a lovely amaro or vermouth. 

The lab where the magic happens.

My favorite part of the tour was a glimpse into the lab, where the mad scientists of Matchbook come up with their ideas.  A board thick with post-its was testament to their creativity.  As I describe each of the liquors we tasted you will see what I mean, as they are made from everything from pineapple to black walnuts.  On the tour, we got to smell a huge vat of guava.

Guava!

After the tour and tasting, we bought several bottles to take home.  I will note that their goods are not inexpensive, but they are unique.  They also may be sold out.  I asked at my local liquor store why they don’t carry more Matchbook products, or carry them more regularly, since the store has an excellent array of local wines, and they said they just can’t rely on always getting what they want, since Matchbook is always trying new things.

The panoply of current offerings.
  •  Land of Muses  $42

My husband likes gins, so we started with their botanical gin.  The aroma is herbal and floral, but we found the taste a bit harsh, with some bitterness.  By the way, you can schedule an interesting experience at Matchbook, the opportunity to blend your own gin from the vast array of additions they have.

  • Limited Edition Some Night in Autumn Rum        about $40

Okay, this is strange, but Paul told us this rum is made by distilling a turkey!  The result is a funky rum, with a sweet aroma and a bit of an umami taste.  We can’t decide if we taste the meat or not, but we think it would mix well in a daquiri or with pineapple juice.  Don’t buy this for a vegetarian!

Yes, a turkey!
  • Flatlander Aleppo             $60

The Flatlanders are corn whiskies, and this one is made from 60% Dent corn, 18% Danko rye, and 13% malted barley, distilled “with East End Aleppo peppers” in a red wine cask.   See what I meant by mad scientists?  I liked it so much that I bought a bottle.  The aroma is of peppers and spice, but the taste is not overly spicy, and it finished smooth.  I look forward to making a cocktail with this, perhaps with some lime juice and agave syrup.

  • Double Dutch     $95

I told Paul I like whiskies and ryes, so this is one he suggested.  It is made with Danko rye and cherry eau-de-vie (and their website even lists the farms which grew their raw materials).  I was concerned it would be too sweet, but it is well balanced, like an already-made old fashioned, and would be good on ice.  All I need is a slice of orange and a bourbon-marinated cherry.  Again, I like it so much that I buy a bottle.

  • Bad Saint             $75

This is their single malt whiskey, but we do not care for it, finding it a bit harsh, with almost a plastic taste.  Maybe they need to age it longer.  I’ll stick to Laphroaig.

  • Late Embers        $60

This is the mezcal-like liquor I mentioned before.  You could fool me into thinking it came from Mexico!  It is smoky and vegetal with a bit of a starchy taste.

  • Ritual Sister        $70

They describe this as a “spirit distilled from pineapple,” and one step in the complicated process they detail on their web site involves roasting whole pineapples in a pit for days.  Our friend has noted that she likes botanical tastes, so this was one recommended to her by Paul.  We like this—whatever it is!  It definitely tastes pineapple-y, but also smoky, and is light and pleasant.

  • Elsewhere Blood Orange               $40

This is an after-dinner drink or a mixer for a margarita in place of Courvoisier.  It smells a bit like orange candy, and is sweet, but not overly so

  • Moon Blight        $40

Another liqueur, this is like a nocino, made from black walnuts and plum wine, plus some pinot noir.  It smells delicious, with aromas of plums and clove.  We all like the taste, as well, and detect a note of cardamom as well as plums, herbs, and spices.  Again, you should read the description on their web site about how this came to be.  I buy this too!

We saw one couple at a table enjoying cocktails.

Reasons to visit:  you like cocktails as well as wine; you want to try something different; the tour of the facility is fascinating; you’d like to learn more about distilling; the chance to try liquors and liqueurs you won’t find anywhere else; I particularly liked the Flatlander Aleppo, the Double Dutch, and the Moon Blight, but it is worth having a conversation with your server about your likes and dislikes so they can customize a tasting for you.

Lenz Winery: Party Time

November 4, 2023

Our friends the winery aficionados invited us to join them for the Lenz pick-up party for members, so of course we said yes.  Though we’d been to Lenz not that long ago—in August, with a friend who brought his dogs along—we were happy to see what their pick-up party was like.  We also got to try some wines we had not tried before.

Pellegrini used to do a pick-up party with generous spreads of charcuterie and cheeses, but since they now charge $35, we stopped bothering to go.  No way will we eat $35/person-worth of cheese!

The event was well attended.

When we arrived at Lenz at 5 p.m., our group was ushered into the tasting room, where tables were set with glasses—four per person—and bamboo utensils.  Soon, we were served food provided by Lombardi Love Lane Market:  a couple of ravioli, a small bowl of lentil soup, and bruschetta topped with caponata and chopped tomato and garlic.  The food was fine, especially given that it was free!

After we tried the four wines on offer, the director of sales, Jerol Bailey, made a short speech about the harvest and the wines, and then went around from table to table offering a few additional tastes.  Lenz is one of the oldest wineries on the North Fork, and they take their wines very seriously.  We liked all the wines we tasted, though some more than others. 

Jerol Bailey addressing the group.

Since this was mainly a social occasion, my notes are brief.

  •  2017 Estate Selection Chardonnay $22

I was a bit leery of this one, since it is a 100% oaked chardonnay, but even though the tasting notes described it as “buttery,” it was not overly so.  The butterscotch flavor was balanced by some nice citrus and green apple notes.

  • 2015 Old Vines Gewürztraminer $30

I remember years ago, before I started this blog, heading to Lenz to buy their gewürztraminer for Thanksgiving.  Good move.  Though it did not go well with the bruschetta, it would pair beautifully with roasted turkey and other savory dishes.  It has a lovely floral aroma and spicy tastes.  I think it would also go well with ham, since I taste a bit of cloves.

  • 2018 Estate Selection Malbec $45

Malbec is often blended with other grapes—more about that in a moment—but here it stands on its own.  They say “medium” body, though I find it rather light for a red.  Still, it is dry, with some tannins that make me think it might improve with age.  I smell olives and tobacco.

  • 2017 Estate Selection Merlot $37

So here’s the thing about Long Island merlots—just about every winery has one, or more, at varying price points.  I don’t think any of them can compete with North Fork Project merlots, at about $11 for a liter.  However, this is an easy to drink red, with good cherry taste and aroma, and goes well with the lentil soup.

  • Cabernet Sauvignon

That’s the end of the flight, but Jerol comes to our table with a couple of other reds, and so we get to try the cabernet sauvignon, which is quite delicious, with lots of red fruit and some complex tastes.  I don’t know which of the three cabernet sauvignons this is, so I don’t know the price, which could be $27, $35, or $60. As we are discussing the wines, I ask him, speaking about the malbec, why they don’t do a Bordeaux blend, given that they have all the grapes.  Next thing I know, I get another extra taste.

  • Firefly Red Blend $22

This is their red blend, with an aroma of flowers and fruit and a light, fruity, juicy taste.  Yum, and very buy-able.

Reasons to visit:  VERY dog friendly; a pleasant tasting room and outside area; a well-run pick-up party for club members; all the wines are good, to varying degrees, but I particularly liked the gewürztraminer and the Firefly Red.

Paumanok Vineyards: Lunch Again!

October 19, 2023

I love the barn-like aesthetic of so many of the vineyards on the North Fork.

We enjoyed our lunch at Jamesport Vineyards so much, we decided to head a little further down the road and do it again at Paumanok.  We hadn’t been there since before the pandemic, so it was definitely time to go back.  We were planning to sit outside on their pleasant wooden deck, but just as we got there the sun hid behind some clouds and a breeze made us shiver.  Of course, shortly after we were settled inside the sun came back out—it was that kind of a if-you-don’t-like-the-weather-wait-five-minutes day—but we were happy with our table by the large windows.

That’s our waiter Rob out on the deck.
The tables were pre-set with glassware and seasonal flora.

We were shown to our seat by a pleasant young woman, who also provided us with a bottle of chilled water.  The tables were all already set, with sets of four glasses for tastings and larger glasses for the water, plus very attractive seasonal arrangements of gourds, etc.  We perused the menus, one for wine and another for food, and decided to share a Winemaker Flight, of two whites and two reds for $22, and get the Cheese and Charcuterie Board for $35. 

Our flight arrived about ten or fifteen minutes before our lunch, so we had plenty of time to sample all the wines before starting on the bountiful tray of food.  That meant that we knew which wines we liked the best, and then had the chance to decide which went best with the snacks.

We found the pour generous enough that it was easy to share.

The board was ample, enough for at least four people, and we ended up taking home many crackers (including some very tasty gluten-free ones), half the little loaf of bread—which arrived warm, a nice touch—most of the olives and cornichons, some cheese, and a couple of slices of prosciutto and salami.  We enjoyed the brie the most, as the other cheeses were…undistinguished, but overall we were happy with the food.  Another time, I might think about ordering a la carte, though that might end by costing more.  It is nice that they use compostable bamboo utensils and plates, though those knives and forks, unfortunately, don’t work very well.  By the way, they don’t allow outside food, and dogs are only permitted during the week.  I guess they figure it gets too busy on weekends to allow for dogs.

Lots of yummy stuff!

Our waiter, Rob, checked back with us at proper intervals, and shared his knowledge of and enthusiasm for the wines, which enhanced our experience.

  •  2022 Chenin Blanc          $32

“Multi-dimensional,” opined my tasting buddy, as we enjoyed our first sips.  The aroma reminds me of white grape juice, and the flavor mixes sweet and tart, with notes of ripe pineapple.  Very good, we decide, and move on to our next wine, leaving about half the glass to consume with our cheese and charcuterie.

The bar featured a nice award they won.
  • 2021 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay          $32

I was a bit concerned about this, as I often dislike oaked chardonnays, but Rob assures us that this is aged in neutral, or used, oak barrels for only six months, so it is not too oaky.  He’s right, and we find this pleasantly smooth, “fruit forward,” according to my pal, who has been reading Wine Spectator.  I think it has a taste that is a nice balance between steel and barrel fermented chards.  It also goes the best with our lunch.  I used to think that charcuterie, being meat, should be paired with reds, but now I prefer whites.

  • 2020 Merlot       $36

There are so many versions of merlot on the North Fork that there is surely one for every taste.  This one has aromas of cherry and oak shavings, but does not have much fruit taste.  I say it is rather light, and my husband says, “It’s kind of quiet,” which I think is apt.

The Massoud family photo, behind which you can see into the winemaking area.
  • 2021 Cabernet Franc       $36

We prefer the cab franc, which, though it is also light, with soft tannins, has more interesting fruit flavors and a longer finish.  I think it also goes better with the cheese than the merlot. By the way, we felt the pour was more than adequate for sharing the flight.

Reasons to visit:  pleasant deck and tasting room; good service; the chenin blanc, though all the wines were drinkable; a pricey but bountiful cheese and charcuterie board; dogs allowed during the week.

The grapes have been harvested. It was a day of alternating sun and clouds.

Jamesport Vineyards:  Pizza and Wine Again

October 5, 2023

Our wait was very brief.

We were discussing the possibility of going to do a tasting while examining the refrigerator for lunch ideas, when it hit us—why not combine lunch and a tasting?  A quick check of the Internet confirmed that Jamesport Vineyards offers their “wood fired” pizza on Thursdays, and in fact they have a Thursday special, of a Margherita pie and a bottle of any of their East End label wines for $45.  So we slathered on some sun screen (not really needed, as the patio is amply shaded), put on our shoes, and headed out.

This was a perfect day for sitting outside, but I don’t know how many more of these we will have this year.

We were quickly greeted at the entrance and escorted to a table on the pretty patio, which looks out on beds of flowers, a lawn, and groupings of tables and chairs.  A number of other couples must have had the same idea, because bottles or flights of wine and pizzas appeared on most tables.  Glasses of ice water, a welcome amenity on this warm afternoon, were set on our table as we perused the menus. 

The wine menu offered three tastings, one of all whites, one all reds, and a mixed flight, of four wines for $27, which we decided to order.  There are 16 wines on the list, all available as a glass or a bottle.  Then we turned the menu over to check out the food offerings, which are quite extensive, from snack-type items like olives and cheeses to real meals, including a lobster roll.  But the main attraction is the pizzas, of which seven varieties are listed.  We decided to get the “Larry,” for $26, which features house-made mozzarella and house-made hot Italian sausage, plus tomato sauce, onions, roasted red peppers, chili oil, and fresh oregano.  It arrived at our table hot from the oven, appropriately singed at the edge, and delicious.  It is worth going there for a glass of wine and a lunch pizza any time.  The menu says one pie serves two, but we took home enough to reheat (in the oven, please, not the microwave) for dinner.  One downer: the plastic knife is totally inadequate to cut the pizza (I know, I do the NYC fold to eat mine, but my tasting buddy prefers to knife and fork his.). 

The pizza is divided into six slices, and we found one each to be enough for lunch.

Another note: no children allowed on the weekends, and no dogs except service dogs at any time.

Our waitress brought out the bottles and poured a generous amount for each taste, giving a brief spiel to describe each wine.  As we sipped and munched, we discussed what an asset wineries like this are to the North Fork.

  •  2022 Estate Albariño      $38

I am generally fond of albariños, and often order one when getting wine by the glass in restaurants.  I wish more North Fork wineries used this grape.  They tend to be crisp, with nice fruit tastes of pineapple and guava, with some notes of lemon, and this one is no exception.  The waitress says she smells banana, which we debate after she leaves.  Maybe a very ripe banana?  Very good.  I’d buy a bottle, but I think I can get it for less at Vintage, our local liquor store.

  • 2019 Estate Riesling         $35

Happily, this is not a sweet riesling, as I tend not to like sweet wines (except for dessert).  It has very little aroma, and is dry, with lots of minerality.  It is not at all fruity, but I find it has an edge to it I don’t care for.  I let my husband drink most of it.

The “East End” wines have screw caps, which I have to admit I am coming to prefer.
  • 2022 East End Rosé         $38

On the other hand, I like this rosé better than he does.  It is crisp and dry, with a touch of fizz.  It’s not very fruity, but goes well with the pizza.  It is definitely a food wine, not a sipper.

  • 2020 Estate Cabernet Franc         $36

“What I smell,” says my seasonally allergy afflicted pal, “smells good.”  I agree, and note aromas of cherry and other dark fruits plus tobacco.  The taste, however, is a little disappointing, as it is a very light red, with no depth.  But it goes the best with the pizza, and is certainly pleasant to drink.  “Not bad,” opines my fellow taster.

No surprise, no one wanted to sit inside on this beautiful day.

Reasons to visit:  beautiful outdoor setting, with lawn and flower gardens; menu of real foods, particularly the pizzas; the albariño and the rosé; excellent service; laid-back vibe (at least on a weekday).

You can see into the wine-making area from the tasting room.