December 7, 2021
In the midst of a week of unsettled weather, we took advantage of a sunny day to venture to the South Fork. We had two goals in mind—to have lunch with cousins we hadn’t seen in years, and to pick up our wine club selections at Channing Daughters. Lunch at Sant Ambroeus in Southampton was delicious, and we took home enough left-over pasta for dinner that night. The cousinly meeting went so well, that our cousins decided to come with us to Channing Daughters, which they had never been to. They enjoyed the tasting, so I hope this will not be the last time they trek there.
Aside from liking their wines, we admire Channing for the wide variety of their wines, the unusual grapes they grow, and their willingness to experiment. There are about thirty wines on their list, plus five different vermouths, an amazing amount for such a small winery (about 15,000 cases per year). We also appreciate how generous they are at tastings for wine club members. We had two tastings of four wines each, but then decided to try a number of other wines, plus a vermouth, and Laura, our server, was delighted to accommodate us.
We had not been there since Covid, opting to have our selections sent to us, so it was interesting to see their adaptations. The outside patio area is now enclosed in clear plastic, with propane heaters which quickly made sitting out there comfortable, though we kept our jackets on. They request that you make a reservation most days, though Tuesday is not one of them, since they are a small space. They also ask that you wear a mask inside the building, but, obviously, the masks come off when you sit for a tasting! They have clever wire racks, which hold five glasses vertically, thus making the most of the limited table space, and they also offer a menu of snacks, which is new. Our cousin picked up a bar of sea salt chocolate for us to share, since we hadn’t had room for dessert at the restaurant.
Before we left, we filled a case with a variety of additional selections, including the “Autumn” vermouth and three bottles of the Scuttlehole Chardonnay (our favorite), and our cousins bought two bottles of L’Enfant Sauvage and two of the Petit Verdot. Though we encountered some traffic as we wended our way back to the North Fork (the “back road” I discovered years ago is now well known), we felt that the trip was well worthwhile.
A standard tasting is $28 for five tastes, free for wine club members, who may also get wines not yet on the list.
- 2019 Sylvanus Petillant Naturel $28
Starting from the top of the rack, we choose this bubbly white, made from 50% pinot grigio, 40% muscat ottonel, and 10% pinot bianco. It is light, crisp, and refreshing, the sort of bubbly I could see pairing with charcuterie and some rich cheeses. Lovely.
- 2016 L’Enfant Sauvage $38
Some years I really love this wine, fermented with wild yeast (hence the name) and aged in oak, and other years I do not. This year’s version is…delicious. We all like it. I often don’t care for chardonnays aged in oak, but this one is not at all buttery. It smells of apples and, according to the cousin, fresh cut grass, and tastes fruity and deep. It might be nice to drink this with a dish of sauteed wild mushrooms, to match the wild with the wild.
- 2015 Envelope $42
This is one of their orange wines, made by fermenting white grapes with their skins on, as I explain to the cousins. As we chat, I realize that, over the years, I have gradually amassed a bunch of random facts about wine. What a great way to get an education! It may be psychological, based on the color, but I swear I taste Mandarin oranges plus lychees. This is a fairly tart wine, and would be good with pork belly, to cut the fatty taste.
- 2020 Lagrein $35
A young red that I think could use some aging, it nonetheless has a delicious aroma of fruit and tobacco. I taste dark purple plums, and could see serving this with lamb chops.
- Autumn Vermouth $28
Spicy, fruity, complex, tasty—these are a few of the adjectives we share after I request a taste of this vermouth. It is made from red wine, and includes a panoply of ingredients. It will be great as a light cocktail, on the rocks.
- 2016 Research Cab $40
Our cousin requests a taste of this, since, she notes, she likes cabernets. Our server also brings a sample of the Petit Verdot, noting that it has more of the kind of fruity flavor those who like cabernets are looking for. And she is right. Though I like this blend of 68% merlot, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit manseng, 3% syrah, 2% barbera, 1% malbec, 1% petit verdot, 1% sangiovese, and 1% blaufrankish (I told you Channing likes to experiment!), the cousin does not. It is quite tannic and dry, and could probably benefit from a few more years in the bottle. The aroma includes berries and cherries (the merlot, I’m sure) and spice, as does the taste.
- 2018 Petit Verdot $38
Oh yes, very nice. How smart she was to bring us this, as I buy a bottle as well. It is deeply fruity, yet dry, with some notes of spice (anise?), cherries, and berries. Just last week I had a petit verdot at Macari which I liked, and this compares well with it. This may be my favorite red grape!
Reasons to visit: you are on the South Fork and want to try a winery (you can skip Duck Walk; Wölffer is also very good); the carved wooden statues by Walter Channing are worth looking at; knowledgeable servers who are generous with “extra” tastes; an astonishing array of wines and vermouths—plus they also carry some local gins and vodkas; L’Enfant Sauvage, Petit Verdot, Autumn Vermouth, plus most of the whites, rosés, and many of the reds; no outside food, but they do sell snacks.