The drink–after a sip or two to make sure it was worthy of memorializing!
When we went to Channing Daughters a few weeks ago, we tried a couple of their vermouths, and I took home two bottles, of versions one and two. I had the thought that two, with its spicy taste, might work well in a Bloody Mary. We may have wine almost every night, but we only have cocktails on the weekend, and I had not yet had the opportunity of trying out my theory. However, last week I bought a bottle of V8 juice, so now was a good chance to see if I was right.
My tasting buddy opened the bottle of vermouth, which had a cork—fortunately, I sometimes save stoppers, and found one to fit—and I got out my ingredients. A shot of vermouth, fill the rest of the glass with V8, leaving room for ice, and add Worcestershire sauce, a dash of hot sauce, a squeeze of lime, and a pepperoncini for garnish. I could have added horseradish, but I didn’t think of it till later, but I may try that next time. Because there will certainly be a next time. It was delicious, the spiciness of the vermouth adding more to the flavor of the drink than vodka, and the lower alcohol content leaving space for our usual glass of wine. A few North Fork potato chips made our cocktail hour complete.
This is the Nofowineaux blog, but one of my favorite wineries, Channing Daughters, is on the South Fork. Why do I like it? For a small winery, Channing Daughters has an amazing variety of wines. The menu of flights lists about twenty-eight different wines, plus you can do a tasting of their five vermouths. Each flight consists of five wines, with a fairly generous pour, for $28. We are wine club members, and part of the fun of being in their wine club is you never know what you are going to get in your shipments. They are also very generous with wine club members, and we are often treated to an extra taste or two.
As you can see from this display, they have quite an array of choices!
We had visitors who shared with us a love for the town of Sag Harbor, where both of us had had family connections, so we drove onto the ferry in Greenport, sashayed across Shelter Island, and boarded the South Ferry for the short crossing to Sag Harbor. After a leisurely stroll down Main Street, noting what had changed and what hadn’t—the Wharf Shop, the hardware store, the Variety Store (with signs still saying 5 cents, etc.), the theater with its Art Deco sign, and Blooming Shells were still there, but there were more fancy boutiques and restaurants than in the past—we headed to Scuttlehole Road and turned onto the pebbled driveway that led to Channing.
We were happy to see some favorites of our children were still there!
We were greeted and shown to a shaded picnic table on the lawn and began to peruse the menu. We decided that my husband and I would share the Spectrum Wine Flight, which offers (duh) a spectrum of their offerings, and one guest would do the same, while the other, a fan of chardonnay, chose the chardonnay flight. Did she prefer oaked or steel chardonnays, the server asked. Oaked. Good, because three of the five were oaked.
Note the sculpture, made from an uprooted tree trunk, made by Mr. Channing.
Our stroll around Sag Harbor had worked up an appetite, so we also ordered cheese and crackers from the limited menu of snacks. We would have liked to get the smoked bluefish dip, but they were out of it, so we settled on Mecox Bay Dairy’s offering of three slices of cheese ($20), plus a package of Mini Toasts ($6), which turned out to be plenty.
We were glad to see they use bamboo plates and utensils, which are recyclable.
The flights arrived on unique tiered holders, the stem of each glass inserted into a circular holder. As we admired the presentation, we noted that an advantage of this was that they did not take up much room on the table.
We enjoyed the wines, the bucolic setting, the beautiful warm day, and the company of each other as we sipped and munched.
The Spectrum Flight.
2021 Heart White Blend $20
A flowery aroma like honeysuckle is the first thing I sense. The wine has a taste that reminds me of some thyme honey I once tasted, which was not sweet, but a touch minerally. “Very clean on the tongue,” opined our guest, and “refreshing,” said my tasting buddy. We like it, and our guest thought it would pair well with halibut.
2021 Rosato Syrah $24
In typical Channing fashion, they have five rosés, not the usual one or two. This one is very light, and I generally prefer fruitier rosés, but it is nicely dry, and would pair well with oysters, like the ones we plan to get from Braun’s Wednesday night. (We got Peconic Bay Gold, and they were wonderful!)
The Chardonnay flight–note the varying colors.
2018 Meditazione $42
Is it the power of suggestion, or does this orange colored wine actually smell like oranges? Orange wine is made by fermenting white wine grapes with the skins on, as though you were making red wine, and is very tasty, with notes of citrus and herb tea. We think this would be excellent with charcuterie. Or as my friend puts it, sometimes 1+1=3, when you find just the right combination.
2020 Heart Artist Series $25
This is a red blend, of 48% merlot, 22% dornfelder, 11% refosco, 10% syrah, and 9% petit verdot—a blend you won’t find anywhere on the North Fork! This is a light red, with an aroma of berries and some nice fruit tastes, and goes well with the cheddar cheese on our plates.
2021 Moscato Petillant Naturel $29
Aaand how many sparkling wines to you think they make? I don’t even know, but this one is 100% muscat ottonel. The aroma reminds me of lemonade, and the taste is light, with lots of tiny bubbles. Most flights will have you start with the sparkling wine, but ending with it works well, too.
Extras: We get a little taste of Envelope, another of the orange wines, to compare with Meditazione. It has “lots of body,” opines our guest, and is “unusual,” with notes of lychee and butterscotch. It would go great with duck, like the duck breasts with blackberry sauce I had made the night before.
Did the chardonnay flight please? Yes indeed. In fact, our friend was pleasantly surprised by how much she liked the steel fermented wines, finding the 2022 Chardonnay a “refreshing sipping wine.” She buys a bottle of it and another of L’Enfant Sauvage to have with the lobsters we are planning on for Wednesday night (after the oysters).
Descriptions of two of the vermouths.
Then we get into a discussion with the server about their vermouths, and she brings us small tastes of numbers one and two. One is fairly traditional, and would certainly go well in a martini, but two is really interesting, with spicy notes. I decide to get a bottle of each, and try number two with tomato juice, in a lower alcohol take on a Bloody Mary.
Reasons to visit: you fancy a jaunt to the South Fork; the incredible array of choices; an intimate space with cheerful service; all the wines, but I especially like the Scuttlehole Chardonnay and the Meditazione; the vermouths.
A walk around Greenport is always interesting. We like to window shop, check out the new stores and art galleries (of which there are several), read the menus in restaurant windows, watch the ferry come in, and check out who else is wandering around. This time, we just wanted to have a bit of a walk and enjoy a beautiful fall day (finally!) with our visitors from Connecticut, before taking them to Matchbook Distilling Company for a tour and tasting.
The unassuming entrance is easy to miss.
Although one could walk to 230 Corwin Street from the main part of town, we opted to drive and park in their parking lot. The GPS told us we had arrived at our destination before we came to the parking area, but fortunately we had been there once before and knew to continue a little further. Matchbook is located inside a former boat building facility, which is evident once you are on the tour by the high ceiling of the distilling area.
One view of the distillery.
From the parking lot you walk into the tasting room, an airy space only open on Saturdays from 1-6, with a few small tables and comfy stools at the bar. The room is decorated with bottles and bottles of their products, plus blackboards listing cocktails. A panoramic display of their current offerings, by my count over thirty, is displayed on the bar. We were lucky enough to be greeted by Paul, one of the owners, who enthusiastically explained what they do and carefully curated our tastings based on what we told him of our likes and dislikes.
Paul was an excellent guide to the varied products they make and how they make them.
That was fortunate, because otherwise I don’t know how we would have chosen our three “Pick Your Sips” samples ($25). As it was, we ended up with nine different tastes, which we shared (our group included our designated driver, who sniffed but did not sip), some of which we liked very much, and others we were not so crazy about.
Shoveling Jerusalem artichokes into a still.
But before I get to the tasting, I should tell you about the tour, which took about fifteen minutes, and is free for the asking (I was told on the phone that I did not need a reservation.). Through a double door you walk into an airy, sparkling clean warehouse area, with pot stills of varying sizes and all sorts of equipment. A pair of workers were shoveling roasted Jerusalem artichokes into a still preparatory to making Late Embers, their mezcal-like liquor. (That combined with their Elsewhere Blood Orange liqueur would make quite a margarita.) You need to get someone with a better background in chemistry to explain it to you, but apparently Jerusalem artichokes and agave both produce inulin, which is what you need to make mezcal. However, unlike agave, Jerusalem artichokes (which are not at all like artichokes), grow profusely and can actually be invasive. Matchbook was in the midst of processing some 3,000 pounds they had gotten from an organic farm on the South Fork.
They also use organic grains for their whiskeys, and try to make use of various excess materials from the farms and vineyards of the North Fork. Paul commented that they were very fond of being on the North Fork, both for its rural peace and the availability of produce. One example he gave was how a winery may have an off year, and end up with a wine they do not care to bottle under their own label. However, through the magic of distilling and other processes, that so-so wine can be transformed into a lovely amaro or vermouth.
The lab where the magic happens.
My favorite part of the tour was a glimpse into the lab, where the mad scientists of Matchbook come up with their ideas. A board thick with post-its was testament to their creativity. As I describe each of the liquors we tasted you will see what I mean, as they are made from everything from pineapple to black walnuts. On the tour, we got to smell a huge vat of guava.
Guava!
After the tour and tasting, we bought several bottles to take home. I will note that their goods are not inexpensive, but they are unique. They also may be sold out. I asked at my local liquor store why they don’t carry more Matchbook products, or carry them more regularly, since the store has an excellent array of local wines, and they said they just can’t rely on always getting what they want, since Matchbook is always trying new things.
The panoply of current offerings.
Land of Muses $42
My husband likes gins, so we started with their botanical gin. The aroma is herbal and floral, but we found the taste a bit harsh, with some bitterness. By the way, you can schedule an interesting experience at Matchbook, the opportunity to blend your own gin from the vast array of additions they have.
Limited Edition Some Night in Autumn Rum about $40
Okay, this is strange, but Paul told us this rum is made by distilling a turkey! The result is a funky rum, with a sweet aroma and a bit of an umami taste. We can’t decide if we taste the meat or not, but we think it would mix well in a daquiri or with pineapple juice. Don’t buy this for a vegetarian!
Yes, a turkey!
Flatlander Aleppo $60
The Flatlanders are corn whiskies, and this one is made from 60% Dent corn, 18% Danko rye, and 13% malted barley, distilled “with East End Aleppo peppers” in a red wine cask. See what I meant by mad scientists? I liked it so much that I bought a bottle. The aroma is of peppers and spice, but the taste is not overly spicy, and it finished smooth. I look forward to making a cocktail with this, perhaps with some lime juice and agave syrup.
Double Dutch $95
I told Paul I like whiskies and ryes, so this is one he suggested. It is made with Danko rye and cherry eau-de-vie (and their website even lists the farms which grew their raw materials). I was concerned it would be too sweet, but it is well balanced, like an already-made old fashioned, and would be good on ice. All I need is a slice of orange and a bourbon-marinated cherry. Again, I like it so much that I buy a bottle.
Bad Saint $75
This is their single malt whiskey, but we do not care for it, finding it a bit harsh, with almost a plastic taste. Maybe they need to age it longer. I’ll stick to Laphroaig.
Late Embers $60
This is the mezcal-like liquor I mentioned before. You could fool me into thinking it came from Mexico! It is smoky and vegetal with a bit of a starchy taste.
Ritual Sister $70
They describe this as a “spirit distilled from pineapple,” and one step in the complicated process they detail on their web site involves roasting whole pineapples in a pit for days. Our friend has noted that she likes botanical tastes, so this was one recommended to her by Paul. We like this—whatever it is! It definitely tastes pineapple-y, but also smoky, and is light and pleasant.
Elsewhere Blood Orange $40
This is an after-dinner drink or a mixer for a margarita in place of Courvoisier. It smells a bit like orange candy, and is sweet, but not overly so
Moon Blight $40
Another liqueur, this is like a nocino, made from black walnuts and plum wine, plus some pinot noir. It smells delicious, with aromas of plums and clove. We all like the taste, as well, and detect a note of cardamom as well as plums, herbs, and spices. Again, you should read the description on their web site about how this came to be. I buy this too!
We saw one couple at a table enjoying cocktails.
Reasons to visit: you like cocktails as well as wine; you want to try something different; the tour of the facility is fascinating; you’d like to learn more about distilling; the chance to try liquors and liqueurs you won’t find anywhere else; I particularly liked the Flatlander Aleppo, the Double Dutch, and the Moon Blight, but it is worth having a conversation with your server about your likes and dislikes so they can customize a tasting for you.
The last time we went to Channing, it was with the intent to resign our wine club membership. We were persuaded to stay in the club when we learned we could switch from home delivery to pick-up at the winery, and go whenever we had time, even if it meant getting several selections at once.
We only had one installment to pick up, but we had decided to take some guests on the ferries from Greenport to Sag Harbor, and make a day of it. The ferries are not cheap, so it would not be cost-effective to go that route every time we needed to pick up wine (since we can drive around, through Riverhead), but on the other hand there was no way we were going to brave the traffic on Route 27 in the summer. Been there, sat there.
On the ferry!
The ferries were fun for our visitors, especially two little ones who were excited to get out of their car seats and stand in the car while it floated across Peconic Bay. We also enjoyed strolling through Sag Harbor, visiting old favorites like the Wharf Shop and Blooming Shells. After a picnic lunch at the beautifully re-done Mashashimuet Park playground, we headed to Channing, intending to just pick up our shipment. But we hadn’t reckoned with the blandishments of the hospitable tasting room servers, who suggested that we “just try the new releases.”
The small members of the party admired Walter Channing’s huge wood sculptures and read their books while we did a quick tasting.
My notes are skimpy, because we hadn’t intended to do a tasting, plus, as the designated driver I only took a sip of each wine. But I think you can get a sense of what we love about Channing: the great variety of their wines and their brave spirit of experimentation.
1. 2018 Sauvignon Blanc $23
With its lovely lemon grass flavor, this is a perfect oyster go-with.
This has a slight pink tinge, and is best served icy cold.
Delicious! A fizzy, fruity, yeasty, dry sparkler, we agreed we could drink this as a toast or an aperitif or with food. Charcuterie, perhaps?
3.2018 Sylvanus Petillant Naturel $28
A blend of 50% pinot grigio, 40% muscat-ottonel, and 10% pinot bianco, this is a great illustration of the Channing experimentalism. It has a nice aroma of pineapple, but I did not particularly like it.
The Blau has a lovely dark color.
4.2016 Blaufrankish $28
Another unusual blend, this is 75% blaufrankish and 25% dornfelder. It is dry, with tastes of blackberry and other dark fruits. Channing suggest you can age this 6-8 years. By the way, it is great fun to read the descriptions of their wines on their web site, which goes into intricate detail on the wines.
5.Vermouths $28 (most of them)
I didn’t taste the vermouths, but those who did said they would be great to drink on ice or in a cocktail.
Reasons to visit: still the greatest variety of wines anyone makes on the East End; best winery on the South Fork (though Wölffer is also quite good, it is a much more formal setting); vermouths, petillant naturels (they make ten in all, though not all are available at all times); beautiful sculptures made by Walter Channing.
Channing Daughters: Lots of Options October 2, 2018
Yes, we were just at Channing Daughters on September 14th, and we usually visit a winery once a year. However, my brother and sister-in-law were visiting. Like us, they are members of the Channing Daughters wine club, and they wanted to pick up both their regular shipment and an additional case of wines. We were happy to make the trek over to the South Fork again, enjoying our ferry rides, a walk on the beach, and a stroll around Sag Harbor before heading to Scuttlehole Road.
A plus of a repeat visit to Channing Daughters is that they have so many different wines, plus six vermouths, that there was no danger of running out of wines to taste. I don’t think any other winery on the East End does as many different, interesting, creative wines as they do. We were also interested in getting some wine for the seafood dinner we planned for the next night, which would include my sister-in-law’s delicious scallop ceviche. (After a trip to Braun’s, we added a main course of pan-fried blowfish tails. Yum.)
This panorama barely begins to capture the impressive array of wines on offer at Channing Daughters.
The server recognized us, and we had a very friendly visit, which included chatting with various other visitors to the tasting room. At the end, she gave us a loaf of Orwasher’s bread, which they get for free in exchange for giving Orwasher’s their leftover grape yeast for bread-making. It went perfectly with the ceviche.
2017 Sauvignon Blanc $25
The grapes for this wine come from the Mudd vineyard on the North Fork. We agreed that it was a good wine, “clean and green,” according to our tasting crew. Lemony, crisp, and light, it is a perfect seafood wine.
This remains our favorite East End chardonnay.
2017 Scuttlehole Chardonnay $18
We first fell in love with Channing wines because of this chard, which we bought by the case for our daughter’s wedding. Steel-fermented, it has aromas of honeysuckle and green apple with tastes of citrus, pineapple, and minerals.
2016 Vino Bianco $20
“I just had this one a couple of weeks ago,” I said, planning to skip it until our server pointed out that I had tried the 2015 and this was the 2016. Oh. And yes, it is a bit different, with more taste of mango and more complexity, with a somewhat earthy end. My sister-in-law described it at “roundy,” by which I think she meant it had no sharp edges. Very nice. As I recall, this was the one we decided to have with the ceviche, and it paired well.
The image on the bottle is of one of Walter Channing’s sculptures.
2015 Brick Kiln Chardonnay $25
I was a bit hesitant about this one, since it is an oaked chard, and I often don’t like that buttery, vanilla taste. However, this one is aged in neutral Slovenian oak and 18% steel, so it is not at all buttery. Instead, we tasted pineapple and Mandarin orange, with just a touch of sweetness. It can stand on its own as an aperitif, we agreed.
2016 Tocai Friulano $24
This one has aromas of caramel, earth, and pine. The taste is very light and minerally, with a short finish. Good with charcuterie, was the consensus opinion.
Then we decided to try one of the vermouths. Oh no, insisted our server, you have to try them all! She lined up six glasses on the bar and the four of us shared the six tastes. Each one is inspired by a different season of the year and constellation of local herbs, vegetables, and fruits. I can’t give a complete list, because the blends are secret, but I will say they are all good in different ways. These are vermouths to sip over ice as an aperitif, though you could also make some interesting cocktails with them. They are identified by number.
Vermouths made from white, rose, and red wines plus seasonal local herbs, vegetables, and fruits.
Herbaceous, dry, and spicy, this is made from herbs which all grow within seven miles of the winery, and was the first vermouth they made. I bought a bottle.
This one includes cucumbers and jalapeno peppers, and is rather spicy. You could season a salsa with it. Maybe you could serve it at a piñata party!
She identified this one as “mid-summer.” It is also a bit spicy, made from rosé wine with a touch of honey as well. Earthy.
Summer, she said as she poured this one. Watermelon, shiitake mushrooms, mint, caraway, and more, all of which appear in the aroma and flavor. It tastes of mint and rye bread.
Late summer/early fall: Muskmelon, dill, peaches. This is the lightest of them all so far, very minerally.
Fall (of course): squash, pumpkin, apple, pear. This last one was made from red wine, and is the smoothest to drink and feels the least like a vermouth.
We were thinking about getting on the road again when my sister-in-law noted that we hadn’t tried any of their sparkling wines. Out came three more glasses and the chance to taste three sparkling wines. It really pays to be in the wine club! My notes at this point are a bit sketchy (no surprise), especially because my husband was our designated driver and left most of our share of the tastings to me.
Sparklers!
Sylvanus
“Amazing,” said our relatives. Very sparkly, with just a touch of sweetness.
Bianco
“Just okay,” was the consensus.
Rosato
I have extensive comments on this petillant naturel on my last blog, but I will just add that, though we are not normally fans of pink sparkling wines, this one is pleasantly drinkable.
There’s a small selection of wine-related gifts. I bought my brother and sister-in-law a stopper for closing sparkling wines, since we had discussed the problem of opening a sparkler for just two people.
Reasons to visit: an amazing variety of wines, so you can come back frequently and try different ones; a wine club worth joining; a cozy tasting room where you can really engage with the servers and learn about the wines and the wine-making.
NoFo Wineaux 