June 17, 2021
Quite a few years ago, on a gray wine-soaked winter afternoon, we joined the Pellegrini wine club, for reds only, because they tended to make better reds than some of the other East End wineries. In general, that still holds true, though we were a bit disappointed in the current selections. Due to the pandemic, we had not done a tasting at Pellegrini for two years, but we’ve been picking up our wine club bottles regularly, and most of what we’ve gotten has been fine, so I guess it was just this time’s two choices.

As we parked in the lot, after having encountered a surprising amount of traffic, I started quoting James Russell Lowell’s famous lines, “And what is so rare as a day in June?/Then, if ever, come perfect days,” and commenting that it was about time they came true. What a month, with the weather alternating between rainy and chilly and too hot to step outside, but this day was finally fine, which is why we decided it was time to sit outside and taste some wine. Pellegrini has a small tasting room, but a large central patio—often tented for private celebrations—and tables out on their front and back lawns. They do allow you to bring your own snacks, and no longer serve the little bags of oyster crackers that used to come with every tasting.

Another change is that they have a set menu for a tasting, of four wines for $16: the 2019 Rosé, 2019 Steel Chardonnay, 2018 Cabernet Franc, and 2020 Barbeque Red. Since we are in the club, I wanted to taste the wines that were in our current shipment, and so substituted the Steakhouse Red and 2015 Petit Verdot for the reds. (Our tasting, of course, was free.) You used to be able to choose from a large number of wines and try six or seven of them. Change, as they say, is the one constant.

As we approached the door, an employee greeted us and directed us to a table on the front lawn, where I seated myself with my back to the traffic. We gave her our order, and she brought us our four tastes on a tray, atop a labeled tray liner.

- 2019 Rosé $24.99
This is a 77% merlot, 23% cabernet sauvignon blend, with a slight strawberry aroma with a trace of something metallic or chemical. It’s a dry rosé, with some tastes of pineapple, which I like. My tasting buddy says he detects a bit of a vegetable taste. Maybe. Nice, but I prefer the North Fork Rosé, also made by Pellegrini, which they sell for $30 for three one-liter bottles. And while we’re on the subject, the North Fork brand also includes a very nice chardonnay and a merlot, both very good buys and quite drinkable.
- 2019 Steel Chardonnay $19.99
No aroma at all! I think I prefer steel-fermented chardonnays to oak-fermented, in general, but this one is a bit too austere. Maybe what I actually like is slightly oaked chards. This has a lot of lemon-lime flavor, which would make it a good accompaniment to coquilles St. Jaques. As it sits and warms up a bit, I like it better.
- Steakhouse Red $19.99
A blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot, this is a simple, dry red that would go well with burgers or meatloaf, but is not much fun to drink on its own. It smells better than it tastes.
- 2015 Petit Verdot $29.99
Sometimes I like wines made from petit verdot, and sometimes I do not. This is an “I do not.” The aroma is nice, brambly, with maybe a touch of salt, but the wine is very dry and tannic, with almost no fruit flavor. My husband sums it up as, “Just a glass of wine.” Oh well.
Reasons to go: pleasant outdoor area and intimate tasting room; well-priced wines; you can bring a snack; drinkable wines, though we were not excited about today’s selection.
