June 24, 2021
Friends often ask me which wineries they should go to. My answer always is, it depends on what you like, but if they want to sit outside in a pretty setting and feel relaxed, Croteaux is my go-to recommendation. Since I recommend it so frequently, I felt I needed to visit it early on in my renewed project to visit all the wineries! As my husband likes to say, it’s a tough job, but someone has to do it. Well, I am happy to report that Croteaux continues to be a good choice for the above reasons. (I was concerned because the winery has new ownership.)
It was another beautiful June day, and we started by running an errand in Greenport and walking around town. As they did last summer, the town has partially blocked off Front Street so that restaurants and stores can expand their seating and displays. Lots of outdoor tables and minimal traffic make eating outside here an attractive prospect. We will be back!
The next decision was where to go for a tasting. According to their website, we did not need a reservation for Croteaux, so off we went. They have slightly revamped their entry and exit procedures, so you enter directly from the parking lot via the opening in a barn building, where a pleasant young woman walked us to a table. She brought with her a bottle of water and two glasses, a nice touch. We sipped the water as we waited a short time for our waitress—it is all table service. When you leave and it’s time to pay, you go through a little vestibule which used to be both the exit and entrance, and would get quite crowded, but now was easy to navigate. Checks are handed out tied to clam or oyster shells, a smart move, since this keeps them from blowing away.
The tasting menu, accessed via a QR code on the table, offered two choices—in addition to individual glasses. You can try all six of their still rosés for $25, or their three sparkling rosés for $20. They only make rosés, by the way. We opted to share the still wines, plus a basket of sliced baguette and a soft Boursin-like cheese for $12, since it was lunch time. They have a nice little menu of snacks, including some more substantial offerings like lobster roll sliders for $22 for two servings. (The still wines are $35-$39 per bottle, and sparklers $45-$49.)
Our tastes arrived, three glasses each in two pottery saucers, with the varieties listed beneath the glasses, and we were instructed to taste counterclockwise from a particular spot—or not, depending on what we liked to do! But I would recommend going in that order, from lightest to strongest, since otherwise a light wine might be overshadowed by a more forceful cousin. As we sipped and munched, enjoying both our drinks and our snack, we watched the antics of two little dogs which a couple at a nearby table had brought with them.
This is their lightest wine, barely tinged with pink, and is described on the menu as a “white wine drinker’s rosé,” which I can see. It smells like honeysuckle, and has nice tropical fruit flavors.
- Merlot 3
The name of this and a couple of other wines refers to the clone of merlot used to make them. This has a flowery aroma that is quite pleasant, and is also tasty. Like all their rosés, it is dry, in the French style. I was trying to decide what I tasted when my tasting buddy suggested mandarin oranges. Exactly.
- Merlot 181
Unlike the previous two, this wine has barely any aroma. It is light and refreshing, a good sipper for a warm day, with a slight strawberry taste and lots of minerality.
- Merlot Sauvage
If you know French, you may wonder what could be wild about a wine. The answer is, the yeast. Instead of using the known quantity of a yeast they have bought, winemakers will sometimes use the indigenous yeast which is found on all grapes, giving them less control over the final product but often delicious results. Channing Daughters makes a wine they call L’Enfant Sauvage, which uses wild yeast. This one has a woodsy aroma, a light pink color, and a definite taste of watermelon (which reminded me of a recent taste I had of watermelon infused with a Negroni). Mouth-watering.
- Merlot 314
Not sure why, but the menu labels this “bistro-style.” This is my husband’s least favorite of the day, though it is certainly drinkable. It has hints of lemon/lime and tangerine.
Pretty is an apt name for this deep pink wine, with lots of strawberry aroma and taste. It has more depth than the other rosés, with touches of minerals and herbs, and reminded me of strawberries macerated with white wine. The menu calls it a “red wine lover’s rosé.”
Reasons to visit: lovely garden setting; pleasant laid-back vibe (the speakers were playing reggae-inflected and soft rock music while we were there); lots of easy-to-drink rosés; nice menu of snacks; I especially liked the Chloe, the Sauvage, and the Jolie; dogs!