This display was at Windy Acres, where we went apple-picking, but it could have been any of a dozen places!
Piled at farmstands, lined in rows in fields, on front porches—pumpkins are everywhere on the North Fork. Magic Fountain ice cream store has not one, not two, but three flavors of pumpkin ice cream. (The pumpkin cheesecake is delicious, and I look forward to trying the pumpkin praline.) So it was not exactly subconscious suggestion that led our visitors to want to try one of the many pumpkin beers on offer at local breweries. Jamesport Farm Brewery was close by, so we decided to pop in and see if we could take home a growler, as we didn’t have time to stay for a tasting.
The band was inside the tent.Many jolly groups were sitting at the picnic tables.
We began to worry that “popping in” would not be on the menu, when we were directed to park in about the fourth row in a field full of cars. And indeed, as we entered, the place was in full Octoberfest mode, with a live and lively band, food trucks, and crowds of people—young, old, couples, families, groups of friends, and lots of dogs—everywhere. Uh-oh.
Lots of pooches.You can see the food trucks off to the side.
Then we spotted two take-out windows, with only a couple of people on line. “Can we get a growler of Basic Witch?” I asked. “No,” but, he added, “we do have Crowlers of it, in the refrigerated case inside.”
What’s a Crowler? A tall 32 ounce can, I soon learned. Crowlers in hand, we paid at the window, listened to the music a little while, and went home.
We enjoyed the beer, a smooth, pleasant ale, which we sipped with some cocktail hour snacks of dill pickle flavor hummus (surprisingly yummy), crackers, cherry tomatoes, and truffle flavored nuts. We agreed that we were not sure what made it a pumpkin beer, but the Jamesport Farm website describes it as, “Easy-drinking, with subtle pumpkin & spice flavors. Malty sweetness with a smooth, sessionable character.” (4.8% ABV) I’d agree.
The Crowler we took home, plus a pumpkin waiting to be carved.
I hope to return in the off-season to do a complete tasting!
Reason to visit on an October weekend: lively Octoberfest scene, dogs welcome.
The Pellegrini tasting room is certainly quiet. Except for a few locals picking up their quarterly shipments, we had it to ourselves. By the way, note the very comfortable chairs!
“Tumbleweed Tuesday” refers to the day after Labor Day, when, supposedly, the tourists leave the East End and locals can once again plan their chores without worrying about being unable to make a left turn. When my mother lived in Sag Harbor, she was invited to a beach party on such a Tuesday, where a tourist was burned in effigy, signaling her acceptance as a full-time resident. As far as I know, there is no such custom on the North Fork. Anyway, though the crowds have certainly decreased, fall is still a busy time out here, what with all sorts of festivals (I’m looking at you Harbes…), apple and pumpkin picking, corn mazes, and winery events. I make sure to stay close to home on Columbus Day weekend!
However, it was certainly quiet in the Pellegrini Winery tasting room on this beautiful September afternoon. We had gone there to pick up our wine club shipment, but when we arrived the place was empty, though the door was propped open. Hmmm…But after a moment, Tammy came in, apologizing. She had been serving some people who were sitting outside. We quickly collected our three bottles, and then picked out a tasting featuring all three, so we could see if we wanted to order more of any of them.
Our quarterly selection.
Tammy brought the tray of tastings to our table, with two little bags of oyster crackers. The standard tasting is four pours for $20, your choice out of the fifteen wines on the form. The glasses are carefully perched atop each choice. As we sipped, we listened to some Italian-ish music, which reminded us of one of our favorite movies, Big Night. It’s a brilliant film about an Italian restaurant which is struggling to survive in1950s New Jersey while staying true to their authentic cuisine. I love the scene where the chef is outraged that a couple insist on getting a “side” of spaghetti with their risotto.
Our flight.
2023 REJOYCE $26.99
This is a blend, named for one of the owners, of 52% chardonnay and 48% sauvignon blanc. I’ve liked it in the past, but I’m not crazy about this iteration. It has a lovely aroma of baked pears and citrus, but the taste is a bit too what my mother-in-law would have described as “sharp.” Maybe too acid? It would, however, work well with seafood in a cream sauce, on top of pasta. (That music is getting me to think about food!)
Some information about wine club membership.
Steakhouse Red $22.99
Wineries often have undated blends, which means they are free to mix various vintages and types as needed for the taste they want. This is a blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot, and is meant to be a casual pasta or hamburger wine. Or steak, I suppose, though I’d want a wine with more depth to stand up to a big steak. This has a pleasant aroma of tobacco and berries, but is quite light. Nice, but not exciting.
2018 Merlot $32.99
We opted to get “reds only” in our shipments—we could have opted for a mix or whites only—because we generally feel Pellegrini has some of the better reds on the North Fork. We really like the North Fork Project Merlot, made by Pellegrini, one of the best wine bargains on the East End, with three one liter bottles for $36. We like that better than this, pricier, merlot, which is 2% cabernet sauvignon and which my tasting buddy describes as “Meh.” Not bad, but just okay. I could see it with roast chicken. It is dry, with some hints of cherry.
2020 Vinter’s Pride Encore $49.99
When I tell my husband they want fifty dollars for this wine, he says, “They won’t get $50 from me!” I refrain from pointing out that they already more or less have, since it is in our shipment, but I have hope. I plan to put it in the cellar, hoping it will improve with age. This is another blend, 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, and 10% petit verdot. It has a slightly funky aroma, with some blackberry and cedar, and the taste is good, of dark fruits and figs, though again, not exciting. Dry, dark fruits, and enough depth to complement Pasta Bolognese, or, as they suggest, a rib-eye steak (I once got great rib-eye steaks at 8 Hands.). Ooh. Time to go home for supper!
Reasons for going: quiet tasting room, with some outside tables as well; the reds in general, though we were underwhelmed today; you can bring your own snacks, in case you want more than a little bag of oyster crackers; the North Fork Project wines, which feature merlot, chardonnay, and rosé, three big bottles for $30 or 36, a definite bargain.
The logo reminds me of Gertrude Stein’s poem, “Rose is a rose is a rose.”
It had been a busy weekend. Aside from it being the Fourth of July, a family member was celebrating one of those “big” birthdays, and we had a large gathering at our home on Saturday, so on Sunday, the actual birthday, we wanted to go somewhere close to home and quiet. We also had a few other requirements to meet the needs of our guests: dog friendly, okay for children, good wines, roomy enough to seat eight, and somewhere they hadn’t been before. Rose Hill fit perfectly, plus, being somewhat off the main wine route, we knew it would be quiet, even on this July 4th weekend. Our guests had been to the location when it was Shinn, but not since the new owners and the renovation. So off we went to Oregon Road (so-named, according to one local, because it was so remote “it might as well be in Oregon”).
In addition to the patio, they have seating out on the lawn.
We were greeted by a very friendly young man, who quickly assessed our group and showed us to a table on the shady patio, where we felt quite comfortable despite the warm day. One member of our group, who had spent some years on the West Coast, opined that the patio had a “California vibe,” with its natural wood, flowers, and relaxed feel. There is also a gift shop, inside a building where one pays one’s tab. Two young shoppers assessed the offerings as “cute but pricey.”
Some of the gift shop offerings, plus a view of the patio.
The youngsters were supplied with their own bottle of fizzy pink lemonade ($15), which they quite enjoyed, and we ordered roasted spiced nuts (not spicy) and olives for the table, medium-sized bowls for $12 each. Meanwhile, we perused the menu (accessed through a QR code on the table) for the tasting options.
In addition to the sparkling water, free carafes of cool tap water are supplied.
Rose Hill (named for a street the owners had lived on) offers three flights: Summer, Classic, and Red, each featuring five wines for $30. My husband and I decided to share the Summer flight, one guest also chose that one, and another decided on the Classic Flight (a third couple had already been to a couple of tastings, so they opted to share a glass of the Brut Rosé and a bottle of Saratoga sparkling water).
This is a screen shot, so it is a bit blurry!
Cat, our charming and efficient waitress, brought out the flights, pointed out the tasting notes below each glass, and we began. Of course, as happens when we do a tasting with friends, there was a lot of conversation not related to wines, so my comments might be a bit brief. I’ll go through our selections first.
2024 Palmilla $34
First and best! This is a blend, primarily of chardonnay, plus albariño, gewürztraminer, and a little semillon, which I only know because someone (an owner?) stopped by our table, so I was able to ask. Anyway, we all like it, noting an aroma of pineapple and other tropical fruits, and a flavor of pineapple and mango, plus some citrus.
2024 Concrete Blonde $48
I happen to know that the name refers to aging in a concrete “egg,” rather that wood or steel, which tends to give wines more depth. In this case, the sauvignon blanc is very light, with a faint aroma of earth or clay, and some herbal flavors. My tasting buddy likes it better than I do.
The Summer Flight: one always tastes from left to right.
2024 Riesling $28
“Off dry” means the wine is not dry, but happily this wine, though a bit sweet, is not too sweet to sip, though I think I would prefer it paired with a nice plate of Pad Thai. Good.
2024 Grüner $28
Though One Woman’s Grüner is one of my favorite North Fork wines, this tastes quite different. The assessment at the table is “A lot of people would not like this wine, but we do!” It is interesting, very herbal, with an aroma that combines spice with a touch of menthol, almost medicinal. It would pair well with a cheese tray, like the one I assembled for our party, with some of Love Lane Cheese Store’s delicious offerings, including their truffled brie, Cambazola blue, Mimolette, a smoky Gouda, and Catapano’s cranberry flavored goat cheese.
2024 Rose Hill Rosé $34
This is a just okay rosé, made from merlot, dry, with the expected strawberry aromas and flavor. A nice dish of pasta with shrimp would pair well with it.
Now to the Classic Flight, of which I had small sips.
The Classic Flight.
2022 Brut Rosé $48
This is mildly bubbly, with some nice yeasty aromas and a bit of a bready taste. Pleasant. It is primarily chardonnay, with some pinot noir, which gives it the pink tinge.
2024 Coalescence $28
Shinn had a wine they called Coalescence, which I really liked. This one was judged “forgettable” by my table mates, though I thought it was okay. It’s a blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, riesling, semillon, and pinot blanc.
2023 Chardonnay $34
There are a LOT of chardonnays on the North Fork, and I would choose some of those over this one, which is assessed as “meh.”
2023 Mojo $34
This is a very light red, an unoaked cabernet franc, with tastes of pomegranate and berries and a touch of earthiness. Nice.
2022 Wild Boar Doe $52
Say the name out loud, and you will realize that this is a Bordeaux-style blend (merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and malbec). It is also our other favorite of the day, which one guest describes as “juicy and delicious,” and another as “a star.” Lots of dark fruit taste, with some notes of spice and figs. Yum.
Our “well-behaved” dog, who was allowed on the patio–and attracted several pats, as well as the attention of a couple of other dogs who passed by.
Reasons to visit: pleasant setting off the beaten track; dogs allowed on the patio, though not inside; standard menu of snacks; the Palmilla and the Wild Boar Doe, in particular, though we also liked the Grüner; they have an inn, in case you want to stay the night.
Yes, there are many perks to being a local on the North Fork: the plethora of farm stands spring through fall; the closeness to the seashore; the friendly neighbors; sightings of deer, turkeys, egrets, bunnies, and even groundhogs; and more, but one of my favorites is being able to pop out to a winery whenever one wants. And this past week we discovered a good reason to head out to a tasting, because many of the wineries were offering special deals for “Locals Week,” from free tastings to a free glass of wine. So the question was, where to go? Mother Nature solved one part of the conundrum for us, by giving us a beautiful, warm, sunny day (We went from having the heat on to turning on the A/C almost overnight.), meaning sitting outside was a good idea. Then I decided we needed to go somewhere that served lunch, and Paumanok seemed perfect.
So off we went. We walked into the tasting room, where Lily greeted us enthusiastically and quickly showed us to a table on the wooden deck overlooking the vineyard. There were a few other couples enjoying the day, the wine, and lunch, and we were happy to join them. A slight breeze made the temperature perfect. We told our server we were getting the “Locals” tasting, and she set us up with three tastes each in little carafes, with a round-bottomed glass into which to pour each wine: a white, a rosé, and a red. She also gave us a bottle of chilled water and a water glass, welcome on this warm afternoon.
We sat at the table just outside the doors.
What would we like for lunch? We contemplated the charcuterie platter, which came with a baguette, or individual cheeses, or hummus, but then were attracted to the sandwiches. My tasting buddy chose the “Figgy Piggy”—prosciutto, melted brie, sliced apples, and fig jam—while I opted for “The Goat”—Old Chatham goat cheese, roasted red peppers, olive tapenade (which turned out to be sliced olives, but still good), and balsamic glaze, served with a little pile of cornichons and a bag of North Fork Potato Chips ($24 each). Both sandwiches were delicious, but if we come again we would probably just order one sandwich, since we both took home half of ours. They are big!
The Goat.The Figgy Piggy
We took our time, sipping the wines and discussing which one went best with each sandwich, enjoying the afternoon. We were feeling so mellow that we took home two bottles each of all three wines! Lily asked if we wanted to join the wine club, but after careful consideration we decided that we belonged to enough wine clubs already.
2023 Festival Chardonnay $24
Happily for me, this is a steel-fermented chard, with some interesting characteristics. It smells piney, and even tastes a bit like pine, plus the usual citrus taste one expects. I also felt it smelled a bit like lemon candy, with a touch of funk. Not your ordinary North Fork chard. My husband dubbed it “likeable.” I also felt it went well with both sandwiches. I used to automatically pair cheeses and meats with reds, but I have come to feel that charcuterie and soft cheeses go best with whites or rosés.
The wines. The roséhas a particularly pretty label.
2024 Dry Rosé $28
Lily was eager to tell us about this rosé, since it was new to the tasting menu and she was quite enthusiastic about it. With good cause. It is a delicious blend of 52% merlot, plus cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and pinot noir. Though it has some of the expected strawberry aroma and taste, I also taste cranberries or raspberries and maybe some tart apple, like Winesap. It goes particularly well with the potato chips! She also tells us about the history of the Massoud family, how they started in Lebanon, where it was illegal to buy wine, but not to ferment it oneself. After making their own wine for a few years, they decided to emigrate to the United States, and settled on the North Fork in 1983 to found their winery. They now also own Palmer, and continue to live on the Paumanok property.
The flight. This is a nice set-up if one wants to share a tasting.
2022 Festival Red $24
This is, according to Lily, lighter than their other reds, and she described it as a “barbeque” wine. It is certainly priced for casual drinking. This is a 50/50 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon (although the web site describes it as a different blend), with some tobacco and cherry aromas, not much tannins, and very easy to drink. “Smooth,” opines my buddy.
Reasons to visit: comfortable deck overlooking the vines; we liked all three wines we tried; a nice menu of snacks and substantial sandwiches; dogs allowed during the week.
We were sitting in our living room Friday afternoon when I looked out the window and noted that it was both sunny and above freezing—metrological conditions that have not existed for a while. “Why don’t we go do a tasting?” I asked. So we put on our shoes and headed out to ev&em winery, which we had last been to not long after Dan Abrams bought Laurel Lake and changed, well, everything except the exterior, which still looks like a traditional farmhouse. Inside, the décor is sleek and modern, with a gas fireplace, a long bar, and plenty of tables and chairs (lacking last time we stopped in!), plus ample seating on a side porch.
The fireplace is a nice touch.
We were immediately greeted—well, there were only two other couples there—and told we could sit anywhere we chose, so we took a table facing the fireplace. I mean, it was above freezing, but not exactly summer. Still, sparkling, or tap? We chose tap, a chilled bottle of which was promptly provided. (Sparkling or still would have set us back $5 or $10, depending on the size.)
There are three flights to choose from: Classic, of four wines for $38; ev&em, of four for $32; or a wine and chocolate pairing flight, with four wines and four chocolate truffles, for $50. $12 or $18 for four chocolates seemed a bit steep to us, so we decided to share the Classic option. However, I saw that it included their barrel fermented chardonnay, and since I tend not to like oaked chards, I decided to ask if I could sub in one wine from the other tasting. We also wanted a little snack, but nothing as big as a cheese or charcuterie board, so settled on a bag of potato chips ($3.50).
Soon, our server came to take our order. Could I have the Lightly Chilled Red instead of the oaked chard? I could, but she explained that their chardonnay was aged in neutral oak, so it would not have that buttery taste I dislike. How about if she gave me just a splash of it to taste, along with the red? I have a principle of never turning down a taste, so I said yes, and added in the order of potato chips.
She returned with a placemat with circles for the four tastes and four wine glasses, two of which she filled with the two chardonnays on the menu, then added a glass of the red. There was plenty to share. After a while, another server came with the two reds in the tasting, and I reminded her that we had asked for chips. She handed us a bag, and then I had to ask for napkins as well. (Most wineries will give you a plate or two for chips.)
2023 Steel Fermented Chardonnay $40
This has a lovely aroma of Granny Smith apples plus some minerality, and tastes of green apple, pineapple, and tangerine (though my tasting buddy is not so sure of the latter). It’s quite nice, but so are other North Fork chardonnays that don’t cost $40.
2023 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $45
She is right, it is not buttery, but I’m still not fond of it. The aroma is a bit funky, I think something that I’ve heard described as “forest floor.” My husband says he likes the taste better than the smell. Again, I get some pineapple, plus some spice, maybe nutmeg? We don’t finish it.
Lightly Chilled Red NV (non-vintage) $32
One sip, and I am sure this is a steel-fermented red, an assumption validated by our server when she returns, though she does not know what percentage of different grapes go into it. It’s a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and pinot noir. This is a light, bright, fresh-tasting drink, with tastes of cranberry and raspberry. Good red for those who don’t care for red wines.
2022 Pinot Noir $65
“Ooh,” I tell my tasting buddy, “I really like this.” “How much is it?” he asks. I tell him. “You don’t like it that much!” he answers. I guess he’s right, though it is better than the average pinot noir out here, with yummy flavors of blackberry and a delicious mouth feel.
2022 Cabernet Sauvignon $58
This one doesn’t have much aroma, and is somewhat of a letdown after the pinot noir. It has some nice spice and berry notes, but not much depth. And, like all the wines we’ve tasted today, the question of value arises. Is it worth the price being charged? Given that there are other North Fork wines of similar quality for less, I think not. Others may differ, or like the celebrity connection.
Reasons to visit: pleasant tasting room, with a fireplace for winter warmth; plenty of outdoor space for the warmer weather; the pinot noir, if you don’t mind the price, and the Lightly Chilled Red if you want to serve a red to someone who usually drinks whites.
These couches look like a nice spot to sit with friends.The deck is roomy, plus there is an outside area.
The main dining room. I didn’t photograph the bar, but there are tables in there, too.
We are deep into winter on the North Fork. The farmstands sport signs saying, “See you in the spring,” the snow fences are strung across the fields, and some restaurants and shops are taking a winter break. However, a relatively new place in Mattituck is very much open. The Clam Bar, filling a space previously used by several other restaurants, welcomed our family group, which included two youngsters, warmly, and did a great job accommodating our various needs.
Why is a wine and beer blog commenting on a restaurant? Because it is affiliated with Alize Brewing, featuring their beer on tap. Plus, we hadn’t ventured out in quite a while. Also, it takes a lot to lure us away from our warm fireside when the weather is so…yucky, to use the technical term.
The beer list: they didn’t have all the ones listed here, but they did have some others.
Speaking of fireside, a crackling fire in a fireplace was the first thing we noticed, as we entered through the bar area, before proceeding into the dining room. We’ve been in this room during previous iterations, and the décor seems pretty much the same, rustic and somewhat maritime-y.
However, the food was an improvement. We shared a special of bacon-wrapped scallops in maple syrup, which everyone agreed was yummy. I had another special of short ribs with mashed potatoes and baby carrots ($34), and my tasting buddy had the fish and chips ($24). Others had the whole steamed lobster with corn and tater tots ($39)—the latter replaced by sweet potato fries for one member of the group who can’t have onion—a huge Caesar salad ($13), crisp onion rings ($7), and chicken fingers from the children’s menu ($12). The chicken fingers looked freshly made, not those commercial pre-formed ones I’ve seen other places. We were all happy with our choices, including our beverages.
True to its affiliation with a brew pub, Clam Bar offers a flight of its beers, which my husband and I opted to share. Our guests liked them so much that they ordered a glass of one of them to go with their lobsters.
Fish and chips–properly crispy and fresh-tasting.I liked that they listed the price on the menu, since so many places say “market price.”Very tender short ribs, from the special Valentine’s Day menu.
The grown-ups were too full for dessert, but the little ones shared a huge dessert featuring a chocolate brownie or cake and a pile of whipped cream. My husband and I took home enough leftovers for dinner the following night.
(One comment on the menu—someone needs to go through it and eliminate all the excess apostrophes!)
Our flight–there were other choices, so I guess we’ll have to return to check them out!
As to the beers (four tastes of the Tradewinds beers for $12):
House Boat
This is an IPA, with lots of mango, pineapple, and other tropical tastes and aromas. (6.5% ABV)
Porter
Lighter than a Guinness, this is nevertheless very satisfying, with deep tastes of chocolate and coffee. (5,9% ABV)
Sunset
Very hoppy, with a piney taste and smell. Ever been in a pine forest and wish you could drink it? Then order the Sunset!
Lager
This is a classic lager, your good basic beer, and what our guests ordered to drink with their lobster dinners.
I finished the porter and lager with my dinner, and my tasting buddy was happy with the House Boat and Sunset.
Reasons to visit: classic brew pub with what we decided was a “straightforward” menu, with something for everyone; good beers on tap. The staff was gracious and accommodating. I could see sitting at the bar with a glass of lager and a dozen clams and being very happy.
If you’d never been to Pellegrini, you might think those flying cherubs were part of the Christmas decorations, like the stockings hung from the rafters and the poinsettias on the tables, but they are always there. We know this because we belong to the Pellegrini wine club, and so find ourselves visiting the tasting room with some regularity—like the couple we saw at a nearby table, who had come, like us, to pick up their winter shipment, and were quietly enjoying a glass of wine.
We had a dual mission on this visit—to pick up our wines (we belong to the “red only” group), and order cases of wine to send as gifts. In order to select which wines to send, we picked out a tasting of six wines, and sat ourselves down to share the tasting (we could have gotten two, but sharing one is fine by us) and make some decisions. As usual, the tasting came with a little bag of oyster crackers, useful for clearing the palate between sips.
To order a tasting, simply circle your choices on this sheet. The wines will then come on a tray atop the chosen types.
2022 Sauvignon Blanc $26.99
I figured we’d like this, since we have in the past—though that’s not always true—and we did. The aroma is floral, and the wine has pleasant notes of mineral and fruit—maybe apricot? It would go well with oysters or other seafood, but nothing too hearty. Yes, into the cases.
Our tasting. It’s a fairly generous pour.
2023 ReJoyce $26.99
Named for one of the owners, this is a blend of 52% chardonnay and 48% sauvignon blanc. The aroma clearly echoes the floral note of the 100% sauvignon blanc, plus some fruit. We decide the word for this one is “yummy,” as the minerality if the sb is tempered by the fruit of the chardonnay. One could sip it as an aperitif, or with charcuterie.
The deer head is always there, but not with the Santa cap!
2023 Rosé $24.99
Though rosé is often seen as a summer wine, I see no reason not to drink it all year long. This one is made from 100% cabernet sauvignon grapes, and has typical aromas and flavor of strawberries. It is dry, but not austere, with also some pink grapefruit taste. I could see drinking this with Chinese take-out. “Nice,” opines my tasting buddy.
2017 Merlot $32.99
Although this is a bit of a blend, it is mostly merlot—85%, plus 10% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit verdot. Merlot is a very popular grape on the North Fork, and this is a fairly straightforward example of the genre, with tastes and aromas of cherries. It is rather light, with no depth. We decide we prefer the North Fork Project merlot, a wine also made by Pellegrini, which comes in a large bottle, one liter as opposed to the usual 750 ml. We’ll put that in the cases instead.
Steakhouse Red $22.99
Another blend, this is 72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot. We smell dark fruits, including cherry, and a bit of tobacco aroma from the oak it was aged in. It is good and dry, and would be nice with pasta or pizza.
2018 Cabernet Sauvignon $24.99
Like the merlot, this is also a blend, though this time almost all cabernet sauvignon: 94%, plus 4% merlot 181 (the number indicates the clone) and 2% cabernet franc. This is a wine I might put aside for a couple of years to age, as I think it would improve over time. It has that brambly blackberry taste of cabernet sauvignon. It is dry, and definitely needs to go with food. We finish off the crackers…
Though the vines are bare, I think they have their own wintery beauty.
Reasons to visit: low-key tasting room, with no limo or bus crowds; consistently good wines, with some of the better reds on the North Fork; you can bring your own snacks, which is becoming a rarity. By the way, the letter that came with our winter pick-up commented that the warm, dry fall meant that this has the potential to be a stellar year for North Fork wines. “Grape vines originated in the desert, and can handle drought conditions quite well…we had an unbelievable combination of ripening, high sugars, and balancing acidity…the 2024 reds and whites have the potential to be reserve quality.”
The drink–after a sip or two to make sure it was worthy of memorializing!
When we went to Channing Daughters a few weeks ago, we tried a couple of their vermouths, and I took home two bottles, of versions one and two. I had the thought that two, with its spicy taste, might work well in a Bloody Mary. We may have wine almost every night, but we only have cocktails on the weekend, and I had not yet had the opportunity of trying out my theory. However, last week I bought a bottle of V8 juice, so now was a good chance to see if I was right.
My tasting buddy opened the bottle of vermouth, which had a cork—fortunately, I sometimes save stoppers, and found one to fit—and I got out my ingredients. A shot of vermouth, fill the rest of the glass with V8, leaving room for ice, and add Worcestershire sauce, a dash of hot sauce, a squeeze of lime, and a pepperoncini for garnish. I could have added horseradish, but I didn’t think of it till later, but I may try that next time. Because there will certainly be a next time. It was delicious, the spiciness of the vermouth adding more to the flavor of the drink than vodka, and the lower alcohol content leaving space for our usual glass of wine. A few North Fork potato chips made our cocktail hour complete.
One view of the expansive lawn, with the musicians in the distance.
Where do you go when your guests would like to do a tasting, but the party includes a six-year-old and a three-year-old? Fortunately, the weather was warm and sunny, which increased our options, because being outside is best with little ones. We thought about Old Field, but we’d been there last summer, and this family loves music. Aha. Osprey’s Dominion offers a large outside area, plus they usually have music on the weekend, they let you bring your own snacks, and we like their wines (which, the six-year-old observed, was probably the most important part—smart little kid!).
So off we went on this busy four-day weekend, passing winery after winery that looked crowded. Osprey’s was no exception, but we pulled around to the back parking area where we were directed by a genial traffic guy to join a line of cars parked on the grass. The scene before us looked like a party, with many tables filled with happy people, eating snacks they’d brought and listening to the music of a small band (just two people, but they sounded like more). Dogs and children abounded and bounded. Could we find a table in the shade? We did! Leaving most of the group to hold the table, two of us ventured forth. At the gazebo in the middle of the lawn they offered wine by the glass or bottle, so we continued on inside, where it was much more sedate. The busy servers handed us a menu, and soon were ready to help.
Tastings consist of four samples for $18, chosen from their extensive lists. There are eight whites, plus one rosé, and ten reds. We decided to do two tastings, shared, with four whites and four reds, which we marked on sheets sporting four circles, just the right size for a little plastic cup of wine. We requested two extra cups, and carefully carried the tray back to our table, where the little ones had discovered the bag of potato chips and the fruit we’d brought. (If I’d thought carefully, I would have brought more snacks, though Osprey does offer a little menu of snacks one can buy.)
We doled out equal shares of each sample—just enough for a couple of sips each—and as we sat and chatted the little ones ran around and danced to the music.
Inside, it was much calmer.
2023 Fumé Blanc $24
In case you’re wondering, fumé blanc is sauvignon blanc that has been aged in oak. This one has an aroma of pineapple and tastes of grapefruit. It is good and tart.
2022 Unwooded Chardonnay $22
This ended up being our favorite white of the day, a pleasant chard with aromas of pear and a slight funkiness. It tastes crisp, with slight fruitiness, and is, according to one guest, a “perfect chicken wine.”
One bit of the large circular bar.
2021 Gewürztraminer $25
Lovely aroma of honeysuckle and spice made this a wine we let the six-year-old smell—not taste!—as we discussed how you are never supposed to say a wine smells or tastes like grapes. Well, sometimes they do! One guest compared the taste to prickly pear. I say apple-y and pineapple-y.
2021 Riesling $25
“This would be a good lunch wine,” opined one guest, to which the other wondered when she had last had wine with lunch. It has a floral aroma, maybe roses, plus a woodsy cedar smell. The taste is mild, a bit sweet, though this is a dry riesling.
Our two flights. Note that they will place the wines in the order in which you list them, so be careful to list them in a good order for tasting, from lightest to strongest.
2017 Cabernet Franc $27
Now we move on to the reds, after a couple of palate-cleansing potato chips. We don’t detect much aroma, though there is a trace of cinnamon and cigar, maybe herbs. I taste red plums. This was a great year for plums in the farm stands, though the season was too short for me. I did get to make one plum tart.
2015 Meritage “Flight” $35
Delicious aroma of cherries, and, said one of us, “smells grape-y.” We decided it was “promising,” but needs to age some more, since it is very tannic. This is a Bordeaux blend.
2016 Carmenere $25
According to the wine list, Osprey is the only winery to grow this grape on Long Island. Too bad, because it makes a nice wine. We smell cut grass and crushed ferns, and note a cherry licorice taste, plus blackberry and a hint of pepper. I think it would be a good burger wine, and one guest suggests a hearty beef stew. Yep, that would work.
2019 Malbec $27
Another favorite, this has aromas of plums and spice and is dry yet has plenty of fruit. Pork braciole, suggests a guest. Why not!
Reasons to visit: plenty of good wines at reasonable prices, but especially the Unwooded Chardonnay and the Malbec; the Richmond Creek line is particularly well priced; dogs allowed; outside snacks allowed; casual party atmosphere outside, with music on many weekends; good place if you have children in your group (even inside, where the room is large enough for them).
I love how the building looks like it flew over from Tuscany.
We had had a lovely run of warm, sunny days, which, I have been told, is weather vineyard managers like as harvest season begins. However, this Thursday dawned cloudy, with drizzles forecast for the day, so we needed to think carefully about where to bring our visitors. No sitting outside, which meant several wineries we had been thinking of were not possible. Then we remembered that one visitor has Italian roots, and the other French, so we decided to take them first to Raphael, which looks like it was plucked out of Tuscany and dropped on Main Road, and then to Bistro Demarchelier in Greenport. Both choices worked out well!
The back bar.
At Raphael we were greeted by a sign telling us to check in at the “back bar,” which we did, and were told we could choose any table. We decided on one next to the windows that look out onto the vineyard. Quickly, a server brought us bottles of Poland Spring water and menus. As our guests admired the view and the large room (Did they have events here? Oh yes, I always check their website if I want to come here, to be sure they are not closed for a wedding or other party.), we looked over the menu, which offers six different flights. Flights include all white, all chardonnay, all red, mixed, mixed premium, and premium red. After some discussion, we decided to both get the mixed premium, of four wines for $35, so we could sample various types of wine and compare notes.
Did we want any food? There’s a fairly substantial list of options, from pizzas to sliders, but we had just had lunch (Taking advantage of the fall bounty at the farm stands, I had served a Caprese salad and melon with prosciutto, among other items.), so we declined. Instead, the server brought us a little plate of water crackers, a nice touch, with our flights. I forgot to take a picture of the flight, but there was plenty of wine to share.
As we drank, we discussed the price of the wine, and why wine aged in oak costs more. I mentioned the “angel’s share,” the idea that the wine which evaporates through the pores of the oak goes to the angels, and our friend said that’s why he wants to go to heaven—to share the angel’s share. It would be nice if there was a special place reserved in heaven for winemakers and wine drinkers.
2020 First Label Sauvignon Blanc $40
Aged in oak, this sauvignon blanc reminded our friend of a white Bordeaux. It is mellow, not overly oaky, with an aroma of grass and crushed fern. I think someone who normally found sauvignon blancs too citrusy or “sharp,” as a friend used to say, would like it. It would go with sole meuniere, opined our friend.
We cleared our palates with these water crackers.
2021 First Label Chardonnay $50
Oaky? Yes indeed, not my favorite type of chardonnay. It has an aroma of vanillin and lots of butterscotch taste. One friend, who doesn’t like many wines, likes this one. It’s okay, as well as oaky, jokes the other. Maybe it would go well with charcuterie, but it’s not a wine I would choose to buy.
Oops, I forgot to take a picture until we were almost done!
2019 La Fontana $45
Named for the lovely fountain out in front of the tasting room, this is a blend of 33% merlot, 25% petit verdot, 17% cabernet sauvignon, 16% cabernet franc, and 9% malbec. The wine is also lovely, with aromas of plums and berries and a pleasantly fruity taste, though light on tannins, the type of red one could pair with roast chicken. We like it.
In nice weather, this veranda is a pleasant place to sit. Not today!
2019 Primo $86
Whew, that’s pricy for out here! Another blend, this is 60% merlot, 20% petit verdot, 15% malbec, and 5% cabernet franc. The oak aging is evident in the aroma, which has that tobacco/cigarette aroma one often gets. I think it also smells a bit like green olives. It has some depth, with dark fruit tastes, and tannins that make me think it could be better a bit more aged.
Pretty room.
Reasons to visit: attractive large space, with a pretty veranda in back; pleasant service, including free bottles of water and a plate of crackers; the First Label Sauvignon Blanc and La Fontana; they have a classy gift shop; more substantial menu of food items than many other places. It’s also nice to visit during the holiday season, when it is even more decorated than it usually is. Oh, and in case you’re wondering, no Ninja Turtles here!
NoFo Wineaux 