Dos Aguas red | NoFo Wineaux

www.Macariwines.com

February 23, 2023

I’ve become quite familiar with Macari’s tasting room this year, since I now belong to a book club that meets there. What’s better than sitting around a table with a group of bright people, discussing books and sipping wine? Oh, and let’s not forget nibbling on truffled potato chips. However, the book group has settled on one favorite wine—the Life Force Sauvignon Blanc—so when friends who belong to the Macari wine club offered to take us there for a tasting, we accepted with alacrity. They made the reservation, which, by the way, is required.

*Not sure what this is, but it is impressive.*

To get to the entrance, you have to wend your way around the wrap-around porch. The room you enter is dominated by a decorative structure which I think is beautiful, but which defies categorization. We were shown to a table overlooking the vineyards on a plastic-windowed porch, cozily warm, with chairs decorated with soft furry drapes. In front of us were place mats with three glasses, and the names of the three wines in the standard tasting. However, as our cheery server informed us, as wine club members we could choose the special wine club trio of tastes. It took my husband and me only a moment to decide that he would get the standard group and I would opt for the wine club tastes. One friend also got the wine club trio, while her husband opted for a glass of his current favorite, the Dos Aguas Red, a blend of 48% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. ($35 per bottle) The Dos Aguas refers to the North Fork’s two waters—the Long Island Sound and Great Peconic Bay—which moderate the climate.

*The tables were set like this. If you didn’t want the three wines on offer, you could substitute others from the list.*

As we discussed what to get, the server brought us chilled bottles of water. We also ordered a charcuterie board for four, which had enough meat, cheese, almonds, olives, bread, hummus, and chips for at least six. ($50) Yum. We all agreed that this was a very civilized way to spend a damp, chilly February afternoon.

*No outside food allowed, but they have plenty of snacks to choose from.*

2020 Dos Aguas White $24

This was the first of the wine club trio, and a very good way to begin. It is a light, dry, lemony white blend, half grüner veltliner, blended with pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc, and a touch of chardonnay. The grüner can tend to be a bit sweet, but in this case it was nicely balanced with the other grapes. It would go well with seafood in a cream sauce.

2022 Life Force Sauvignon Blanc $28

As I noted, this is the book club favorite, and for a good reason. It is aged in a combination of a concrete “egg,” and stainless steel, which makes it both more complex and smoother than a typical sauvignon blanc. One time, years ago, we were at Macari and happened to get into a discussion with the winemaker about the concrete egg, and he gave us a long explanation of the benefits of this way of aging wines. I’ll just say, it seems to work really well. This is dry but fruity, very easy to drink.

*I believe these are the wine club prices.*

2019 Life Force Cabernet Franc $30

My favorite of the day, this is a yummy red, with tastes of berries and plums. Again, this is aged in concrete. It was the second of the wine club trio.

2021 Rosé $24

On the other hand, this was my least favorite, a very light rosé, tart, with not much fruit.

*We had made some serious inroads on the charcuterie platter before I remembered to take a photo.*

2019 Malbec $50

We had made some inroads on the charcuterie platter by the time I got to the malbec, and I noted that it went very well with the cheese and other snacks in front of us. Despite its high price, I did not like it as well as the Life Force Cab Franc, though it is a perfectly good wine. I got some cherry taste, and nice tannins. Perhaps it needs to age a bit more.

*By the time we left, the room had emptied out quite a bit.*

2020 Cabernet Franc $38

One problem with this red was that it was served too cold, a common problem. I think if it had had time to warm up, I might have liked it better. I found it somewhat light for a cab franc, with notes of berries and herbs. Very drinkable.

Reasons to visit: pleasant tasting room overlooking the vineyard; excellent service; I liked all the wines, but especially the Life Force Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc; ample charcuterie board (no outside food). One unfortunate note—when the room is crowded, it tends to become very noisy, as it was during this holiday week.

http://macariwines.com/

It was the day before Halloween, and oddly warm, when we drove over to Macari. We had the tasting room to ourselves, so it wasn’t surprising that there were no pre-made cheese trays available. (No outside food allowed.) However, we could have bought any package of cheese on display, plus some crackers, and our server would have supplied us with a knife and cheese board. We decided to content ourselves with a bag of very tasty black truffle-flavored potato chips. Then I worried that they were interfering with the tasting, so I requested a glass of water, which was quickly forthcoming.

Cheese and charcuterie for sale.

More snacks…

and even more snacks

The tasting room on Bergen Road is large, with a beautiful stone fireplace on one side, and ample displays of their wines all around. There is also a second large room filled with tables, and seating on a veranda off to one side. We stood at the bar and shared an Estate tasting, of five wines for $30. The other flight is called Vintage, and also includes five wines for $30. My tasting buddy complained that it was a small pour, though I noted that the glass was large.

The main tasting room.

When you stand at the bar you have a clear view of the huge steel vats in the wine-making area, and we watched with interest as a worker tethered himself with a safety harness before checking on one vat. Makes sense, I suppose. What a way to go, drowned in a vat of wine!

In general, we have liked Macari wines, and often buy a bottle with dinner in local restaurants. Today was no exception, though in general we liked the whites better than the reds, and really liked the rosé we tried.

2018 Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc $24

Why Katherine’s Field? All our server could tell us was that the grapes for this wine all came from an area of the vineyard called Katherine’s Field, and that it is the part closest to Long Island Sound. Perhaps that closeness to the water accounts for the slight note of saltiness I detected. The wine is light and easy to drink, with tastes of green apple, mineral, and pineapple. Like many NoFo sauvignon blancs, it would go well with local oysters. Good.

2017 Dos Aguas White $22

Dos Aguas is, of course, a reference to the two waters which surround the North Fork: the Sound and Peconic Bay. This is a blend of 52% grüner veltliner, 27% viognier, 10% sauvignon blanc, 7% pinot gris, 3% friulano, and 1% gewürztraminer. It smells very much like honeysuckle, which I think might be due to the grüner, and also gets some of its fruitiness from that. My husband thinks it is too sweet, but I argue what he’s tasting as sweet is actually fruitiness. It has some lemon taste, as well as gooseberry. I would buy it, and it would go well with spicy food, but he doesn’t like it as much as I do.

Even visually, you can tell this rose is more robust than most.

2018 Lifeforce Rosé $28

The term “lifeforce” in the title of a Macari wine refers to the fermentation method used. Instead of steel or wood, these wines are fermented in a concrete “egg.” They used to explain that egg on their website, but I couldn’t find that information now. In any event, this rosé is made from cabernet franc grapes, and was described by our server as their “fall rosé.” It is heavier and darker than a typical rosé, and as we discussed it he told us that what had happened was that in 2018 they were not happy with the way the cabernet was turning out, so rather than make a red from it they decided to turn it into a rosé. We are happy they did, as we quite liked it. Though it has some typical strawberry aroma and flavor, it has more oomph than many rosés. We bought a bottle. I think it will go great with seared rare duck breasts, which we get at Bayview farm stand.

By this time our server–a bright young man–had figured out how I like to pose these photos. We had a nice chat about how he has learned to like wine.

2014 Merlot Reserve $40

Our server tells us this in aged twenty months, 9% in new French oak, so it is not super oaky or tannic. It smells fruity, like black cherries. The taste is soft and pleasant, but rather unidimensional. At that price, I’d want a more exciting wine. However, it is quite drinkable.

2016 Dos Aguas $35

This is another blend, this time a Right Bank Bordeaux blend of 62% merlot, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec, 8% petit verdot, and 6% cabernet franc. I like the aroma of red raspberries, but again the taste is good but not exciting. Dry, soft, with no tannins, this is an everyday type of red that you could even have with roast chicken. It would not stand up to a steak.

Reasons to visit: spacious tasting room; the sauvignon blanc, the Dos Aguas white, and the Lifeforce Rosé; we often get the Sette in restaurants, a nice blend of half and half cabernet franc and merlot; no food allowed, but they do have a large selection of snacks and will do cheese trays on busier days.

The grapes have been picked, and soon the leaves will be gone as well, leaving the vines bare until spring.

NoFo Wineaux

Wine notes from Long Island's North Fork

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