The drink–after a sip or two to make sure it was worthy of memorializing!
When we went to Channing Daughters a few weeks ago, we tried a couple of their vermouths, and I took home two bottles, of versions one and two. I had the thought that two, with its spicy taste, might work well in a Bloody Mary. We may have wine almost every night, but we only have cocktails on the weekend, and I had not yet had the opportunity of trying out my theory. However, last week I bought a bottle of V8 juice, so now was a good chance to see if I was right.
My tasting buddy opened the bottle of vermouth, which had a cork—fortunately, I sometimes save stoppers, and found one to fit—and I got out my ingredients. A shot of vermouth, fill the rest of the glass with V8, leaving room for ice, and add Worcestershire sauce, a dash of hot sauce, a squeeze of lime, and a pepperoncini for garnish. I could have added horseradish, but I didn’t think of it till later, but I may try that next time. Because there will certainly be a next time. It was delicious, the spiciness of the vermouth adding more to the flavor of the drink than vodka, and the lower alcohol content leaving space for our usual glass of wine. A few North Fork potato chips made our cocktail hour complete.
A fun way to go between the Forks is by ferry. We went overland there and ferry back.
It had been two years since we’d made the trek from the North Fork to the South Fork, and our neighbors were interested in checking out Channing Daughters, which they had been to many years ago, so off we went. Because our friends were driving, I had the leisure to look around, and make note of the changes along the route. One change I noticed was that some farm stands which had been small and rustic were now much bigger, with play areas for visiting children. But one of our favorites, on Scuttlehole Road, seemed to be out of business. After our tasting, we drove around Redwood Island, with which I used to be very familiar, and took note of many McMansions which had replaced more modest houses.
The cozy tasting room.Channing’s dramatic sculptures still decorate the grounds.
Even Channing had made some changes: they now have a tent furnished with picnic tables in which to have a tasting, instead of standing inside at the bar. They also offer a menu of snacks (about which more later), so no longer allow outside food. But one change we thought they had made turned out not to be theirs—a large structure being built to the east of the vineyard was not, as we guessed, a hotel or new tasting room, but a private home. Sag Harbor is no longer the “un-Hampton.”
The path to the tasting tent.
As we perused the menu of eight (!) possible flights, of five wines each, we discussed the amazing variety of wines on offer at Channing, including one flight of vermouths. It can be a bit intimidating, but we soon settled on our preferences. Our friends opted for the red flight, as it was slightly chilly when the sun went behind the clouds, and we decided to do the Spectrum flight, as offering a…um…spectrum of choices—a white, a rosé, an orange, a red, and a sparkler. If you are not in the wine club, a flight costs $28 and a glass $18.
Since it was lunch time, we perused the snack menu, and decided on a “Three Cheese Sampler” from Mecox Dairy, for $20. I have to say, I think the three wedges of almost identical cheeses were rather over-priced. We also got a $6 sleeve of gluten-free crackers, which our server suggested as giving you the largest number of crackers, and a $12 package of salami (which worked out to over a dollar per slice). I think they need to improve the snack menu and prices. What is nice is they use bamboo plates and utensils, which are eco-friendly.
The three cheeses from Mecox Dairy looked and tasted very similar.We did appreciate the use of bamboo plates, which are eco-friendly.
Our flights arrived at the table in dramatic-looking gizmos which stacked the glasses vertically, a clever way to save table space, topped with little explanatory cards. Work from top to bottom, we were told. After we finished our tasting, I explained to our server that we’d like an additional glass of wine, but I liked unoaked chardonnays, and our friend likes whites which have undergone malolactic fermentation. Cleverly, our server split the serving, bringing me Scuttlehole Chardonnay and our friend two glasses with small servings of L’Enfant Sauvage, 2016 and 2017. Then, after further discussion, two samples of Cuvée Topicale appeared, which ended up being the unanimous favorite wine of the day. I bought two bottles, plus two pinot grigios, and two Scuttleholes, to round out the case of wine club selections.
The Spectrum flight, with its spectrum of colors.
What follows is a few notes on our tastings, alternating between my and my husband’s flight and then from our friends’ flight.
2021 Heart White $20
The “Heart” wines—there’s also a red—are blends, with labels designed by local artists around the theme of hearts. This iteration blends (in typical Channing Daughters over the top fashion) 29% muscat ottonel, 21% chardonnay, 20% pinot grigio, 18% tocai friulano, 6% gewürztraminer, 5% pinot bianco, and 1% malvasia. Whew. It is a light, dry, easy to drink white, with tastes of citrus and pineapple and other tropical fruits.
The reds.
2020 Rosso Fresco $24
This is billed as a light red, and it is. A blend of 56% merlot, 20% syrah, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 7% dornfelder, 1% blaufrankisch, and 1% teroldego, it has tastes of black cherry and other dark fruits. Our friend notes he does not get the peppery edge one might get with a cabernet sauvignon, but finds it a pleasant wine. The notes say it is fermented in steel and old oak, which is why it is so light and refreshing.
2021 Rosato di Syrah $25
Channing makes five different rosés. This one is, as the name indicates, made from syrah grapes. It is fairly tart, with not much fruitiness.
This photo captures the incredible array of wines Channing offers.
Over and Over Variation 14 $40
I’ve had mixed results with the Over and Over wines, which sometimes appear in our shipments. You really need to go to the Channing web site to read their description of the elaborate way these wines are made. Our friends are unimpressed, and classify it as “a pizza wine.”
2018 Meditazione $42
We discussed the recent popularity of so-called “orange” wines, especially with younger drinkers. Is it just the color, or does this wine have a slight orange taste? This is another blend, of 45% chardonnay, 40% sauvignon blanc, 10% tocai friulano, 4% pinot grigio, and 1% muscat ottonel, contact with the skins giving it the orange color. I like it, with its floral aroma and complex fruit tastes.
2018 Blaufrankisch Sylvanus $30
Both tastings include this red, so we are able to compare notes. We agree that, though this is not a big red, it is tasty, with aromas and tastes of berries and dark fruits, like huckleberries. The blaufrankisch is blended with 23% dornfelder. Though the tasting notes suggest aromas of violets or lilacs, we don’t smell that, though it has a lovely aroma.
2019 Petillant Naturale Tocai Friulano $29
Pet Nats are bubbly wines, not made in the méthode champenoise, and Channing makes five different ones. This one is quite yummy, with guava and tropical fruit tastes from the tocai.
2018 Sculpture Garden $30
Mainly merlot, with 6% teroldego and 3% blaufrankisch, this is a “smooth and drinkable” red, say our friends. Channing suggests one could age this for as long as ten years, but I doubt it would last that long in our cellar.
2019 Petit Verdot $40
By this time, as we drink the final wines in our tastings, we have become involved in lively conversations, and somehow I have neglected to record what our friends thought of the petit verdot! However, I don’t remember any complaints, so I’ll assume they liked it.
Extras: As I noted, our friend and I opt for an additional taste. I start with the Scuttlehole Chardonnay $20), which is one of our favorite white wines. It is still a favorite, dry and crisp, with notes of lemon and fruit. Our friend tries two different vintages of L’Enfant Sauvage ($38)—so named because it uses wild yeasts, though now a number of their wines do, too—and likes the 2017 better than the 2016, which he says is smoother and has more flavor. It is made from chardonnay grapes. Then, as a bonus, we are treated to tastes of Cuvée Tropicale ($26), and that is our favorite of the day, pleasing all palates. One friend says the aroma is almost like an ice wine, a sweet, floral aroma, probably due to the 58% muscat ottonel. The rest of the blend is chardonnay. The wine as a lot of different fruit flavors and real depth. Yum.
Reasons to visit: you are on the South Fork and want to visit a winery (there are only three!); the incredible variety of choices, especially for such a small winery; all the wines are likeable, but we especially loved the Cuvée Tropicale; there are wines for every taste; an intimate setting where you can chat about the wines.
A little over a year ago, we did a tasting at McCall’s Winery, and as I was paying, Mrs. McCall suggested that we come back on a Thursday or Friday night when they serve burgers, made from the Charolais cattle they raise on their property. Being burger lovers, we fully intended to do so, but never got around to it. Then our winery aficionado friends proposed that we join them for a burger night. We were delighted.
When we arrived, the parking lot seemed full, but our friend found a spot toward the back. As we waited for the hostess, we commented to our friends that we were glad they had made a reservation, as almost all the tables seemed to be full. There were groups of friends, couples, and families, all relaxing and eating burgers and drinking wine Well, not the kids of course. There’s ginger ale on the menu, too.
Speaking of the menu, it is quite simple. You can have your McCall burger with or without cheddar cheese, $15 either way, with or without crispy French fries, an additional $8. There is also an “Artisanal Cheese Board” for $24. Oh, and a package of four homemade chocolate chip cookies for $8, which you order at the same time as your meal, and which come cellophane wrapped alongside your burgers. A bottle of chilled water is delivered to your table shortly after you sit down.
So then the big decision was which wine to order. We quickly agreed to get a red. When I was there for a tasting, I wrote that if I came for burger night, I would most likely get Ben’s Blend, my favorite of their reds. However, a look at the menu made me reconsider that choice, as a bottle of Ben’s was $69. Yikes. We settled on the Merlot Reserve, which was $32, and was delicious, a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with lots of black cherry taste.
The burgers were meaty and juicy, the fries crisp and salty, the cookies filled with chocolate chips. We ate, drank, chatted, and enjoyed the mild summer evening. “See you next week,” we heard a departing patron tell the hostess, and I can see why. If you just want a burger in a relaxed outdoor setting, McCall’s is clearly the place to go.
The rain seemed to be holding off, and a breeze made the temperature pleasant, so we decided to do an outdoor tasting. We also wanted to be outside because our guest had brought his dogs, and we wanted to include them in the day’s activities, so we headed to Lenz.
Primrose and Chewbacca quite enjoyed their first winery experience.
Sometimes I wonder whether how much I like a particular wine or winery is based on certain intangible factors, like the weather, or my mood, or little facets of service. How objective is wine tasting anyway? So much depends upon individual likes and dislikes. On this day, we combined the peace of the courtyard (there was only one other party there), the nice breeze, the good company, and two happy dogs with wines we generally liked, with a few extras thrown in, to decide this was a great tasting experience.
The courtyard offers a selection of shaded and unshaded tables.
Why were the dogs happy? In addition to not being left at home, they were quickly provided with their own water dish and then—with permission from their owner—treats from the excellent server. In addition to pampering the pooches, she timed the delivery of our tastes perfectly, falling in with our leisurely schedule and giving us just the right amount of information about each.
The North Fork wine country is celebrating its 50th anniversary, based on its beginnings with the Hargraves’ winery, and Lenz is not far behind, this year observing their 45th year in operation. They say the older the vines, the better the wines, and that does seem to ring true here.
After perusing the menu, we decided my husband and I would share a Summer Flight, $30 for five fairly generous samples, and our guest would have the same flight, so we could compare notes. We could also have opted for the Grand Flight, which features five of their pricier wines for $35. There is also a chocolate pairing flight…maybe another time. We also got a little $2 bag of North Fork potato chips, deciding to eschew the heftier options since I had cheeses and charcuterie waiting at home (including a nice chunk of 8 Hands pâté).
2016 Sauvignon Blanc $27 (for the ’22)
What an auspicious start to the afternoon! We all found this sauvignon blanc delicious, with an aroma of honeysuckle and lots of fruit tastes, with a touch of lemon on the finish. In fact, we liked it so much that we each bought a bottle to take home.
The pour was generous enough to share.
2021 Firefly Rosé $20
Why Firefly, we asked. Because it is named after the owner’s boat. Ah. A blend of malbec, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon, this is a yummy rosé, with tastes of tropical fruit—not quite pineapple, but sort of reminiscent of pineapple.
I didn’t stop to ask about it, but Lenz often has displays of art for sale, which I assume this was. (It was about to rain, so we left quickly.)
2022 Blanc do Noir Rosé $24
If you look on the menu, you will see that this is not included in the tasting, but our lovely server brought it out for us, saying she wanted us to taste this before the other rosé, which we did. Power of the book or the charm of the doggies? Who knows. In any event, this was a very light rosé, with a slight aroma of strawberry and tastes of strawberry and cherry, ending with some citrus and acidity. Though we like it, we find it a bit too light, and actually prefer the Firefly.
2017 Estate Selection Chardonnay $22
We had a good chat with our server about oak vs. steel-fermented chardonnays. As I’ve mentioned before, I tend to favor steel—I don’t like that buttery, oaky taste of oaked chards—but I have had some I liked. This one is aged 50/50 in oak and steel, so sort of the best of both worlds. I introduce our friend to the actual wine descriptor of “cat pee aroma,” which he finds amusing, but I do detect a trace of it in this wine. However, the wine itself is quite drinkable—our friend says smooth—with a touch of citrus and not too much oak.
2015 Gewürztraminer $30
Another gift! Before you move on to the reds, says our server, is there any other white you’d like to try? Hmmm…yes, I say, how about the gewürtz? I like One Woman’s version of this wine very much, so let’s see how Lenz does. I sniff and sense orange blossoms, a very flowery aroma. A sip. This wine is not shy, I opine, by which I mean it has a lot of taste! Ripe fruit, spice…what would you eat with it, asks our friend. Charcuterie! Yes, it needs food that can stand up to it. Good.
2016 Cabernet Sauvignon $27
Pleasant, is the word we settle on for this light, easy-drinking red. It has “not much depth,” notes my husband, but not every red has to be powerful. For example, this one would go well with roast chicken. It has some nice berry tastes and aromas.
2017 Estate Selection Merlot $22
Last wine! We hasten our leisurely pace, as storm clouds are starting to gather. This is a good, fairly typical North Fork merlot, with an aroma I compare to Cheracol (a cough medicine you have to be of a certain age to know), and tastes of cherry and dark berries. Nice, and a good price, too.
The tasting room inside is cozy.
Reasons to visit: pleasant courtyard; dogs not just allowed, but pampered; the sauvignon blanc, the Firefly Rosé, the gewürztraminer, the merlot; a menu of real food, in addition to the usual cheese, etc.; an old-school winery where they take their wine-making very seriously. By the way, though they have a small restroom inside, they also have the most deluxe port-a-potties I’ve ever seen, with air conditioning and a real sink.
I generally avoid port-a-potties, but these were deluxe.
Mamas and babies heading out to the pasture at 8 Hands.Want to buy a used car? Just take a drive along Sound Avenue or Main Road, especially in the spring.
Piping plover nesting areas on the beaches have been roped off. Don’t disturb their nests!
Bud break in the vineyards cloaks the vines with fresh green leaves.
Farm stands are re-opening, featuring asparagus, spinach, and leeks.
Some stores and restaurants which had closed for the winter are open, or have “opening soon” signs up.
Briermere is open. Time for pie!
The world’s longest used car, truck, boat, RV, and farm vehicle lot is open. I’m referring to the vehicles you see parked mostly along Sound Avenue or Main Road, decorated with “For Sale” signs. Once, while riding my bike along Sound, I observed a teenaged boy and his father driving from one car for sale to another, getting out, and peering through the windows.
Cherry blossom time in Greenport has come and gone.
The few wineries which had closed for the winter are opening up, and some which had limited open days are back to being open every day.
The gardening companies and sprinkler installers are out and about, and the buzz of power mowers fills the air.
Baby goats and sheep can be seen in the fields, especially at Catapano’s and 8 Hands.
The nautical theme begins outside; note the roped pilings.
As we settled ourselves around Jason’s ship-shaped bar (mast and all), I joked, “And it’s not a pirate ship!” I expected the server to agree, and explain that its design is a reference to the famous Greek ship, the Argo, whose captain was the hero, Jason. Instead, he offered, “It’s a Viking ship.” Assuming he was kidding, I laughed—but he wasn’t. Though he’s worked for the Damianos family for years (They also own Pindar and the two Duck Walk tasting rooms.), no one had ever explained to him the mythological inspiration for the bar. Jason Damianos, sadly, died in an auto accident not long after opening the tasting room, but the family continues to run it. Though pleasant and attentive, our server was similarly not informed about the wines. I hope after our gentle teasing he will be better informed for the next visitors.
The mast is designed like a classic Greek sailing ship‘s mast.
We had chosen to go to Jason’s because our visitors brought with them their very well-behaved pooch, and, according to the web site, they welcome dogs. Then the sign on the door said, “No Pets.” What to do? I poked my head into the empty room, and asked, and the server welcomed us in, doggie and all. Whew.
Our visiting pup.
We hadn’t been to Jason’s since February 2019, both due to the pandemic and because we had found the wines overall too sweet for our taste. They seem to have partially corrected that, although Golden Fleece (a reference to the object of Jason’s quest), their most popular wine, is still much too sweet. By the way, if you like to look at animals, you can stop outside to see the sheep and alpacas, another reference to the famous quest. Oh, and the rest rooms are labeled Gods and Goddesses, reinforcing the mythological theme.
A tasting consists of four wines for $15, chosen from the list of eleven, served in little plastic cups on a labeled tray. The servings were adequate for each couple to share a tasting. We decided to mostly have the same wines, so we could compare notes, and all decided not to buy any wines to take home. They allow you to bring in snacks, and also sell a selection of crackers and cheeses. Our guests bought a package of crackers as palate cleansers.
2020 Viognier $27.95
I often find viogniers quite pleasant, and this one was okay. The aroma reminded me of fresh-cut grass, and the taste was somewhat grassy as well, with some herbal notes. However, one guest found it somewhat vinegary, and too sharp for her taste.
The plate has an insert of numbers, and our server explained to taste them in a clockwise order.
2021 Sauvignon Blanc $24.95
Consulting my notes, I see that the last time we were here I characterized the sauvignon blanc as watery, and it still is. It’s a very light white, with some notes of melon with lemon squeezed over it.
Golden Fleece $18.95
Our guests ordered this one, and gave us a sip to taste as well. A blend of chardonnay, seyval blanc, Cayuga, vidal blanc, and riesling—according to the tasting menu, though our server was unable to tell us in what proportions—this tasted mostly like a rather sweet riesling. Not my type, though, as I mentioned above, this is apparently their most popular wine.
There’s an outside porch area, though not for a chilly rainy day.
2019 Merlot $34.95
“This is a competent merlot,” opined one guest, and I agree. It is dry, with some cherry taste and aroma, somewhat light, with some notes of oak and smoke. As we were sipping, we got into a discussion with our server, who by this time had exactly one other group to attend to, about how the Damianos family run three separate wineries. He explained that, in addition to the eleven wines at Jason’s, the other two places offer thirty different wines each, with each meeting different requirements as to taste. However, the same winemaker does them all. That’s impressive, and part of why I find wine so fascinating. The same grape, grown in the same area and type of soil, can end up tasting quite different, depending on time of harvest and after harvest treatment.
The bottles are adorned with an image of the Argo. It was manned by a group of heroes dubbed the Argonauts.
2019 Meritage $36.95
Although this is their Bordeaux blend (again, I don’t know proportions or grapes), it is thin, almost watery, with a slight taste of black olives. Meh.
Reasons to visit: you like to look at sheep and alpacas; you are fascinated by Greek mythology; you need to bring a dog with you (despite the sign on the door, the website does say, “Pets are welcome!”); you like sweet wine.
The entrance to the patio from the parking lot is well-shaded.
The sky was threatening rain, so I was glad I was able to park just steps from the back door of Roanoke’s Love Lane wine shop in the roomy parking lot off Pike Street. Roanoke has two tasting rooms, but the one at the vineyard is for members only. However, all are welcome to their Love Lane venue, a small but pleasant store front in the midst of Love Lane’s shops. Love Lane, by the way, is a great destination for foodies, since in one small block you have the terrific Village Cheese Shop, the Sweet Shoppe and its gourmet chocolates, Ammirati’s sandwich restaurant with its many choices, Lombardi’s Italian market, North Fork Donut Company, and Love Lane Kitchen, where the lines outside prove its popularity. Not to mention, just around the corner, Agora, a Greek market, and Good Food, where I get empanadas.
The view out the front window, where you can see Lombardi’s market, which has all sorts of prepared foods and pizza, as well as meats, etc.
Despite all these offerings on Love Lane, we and our guests had just had lunch at CJ’s Grill, in the Mattituck Marketplace, where the service was a bit slow, but the food was delicious and the servings were generous. This was fortunate, since the pour at Roanoke is also generous, and it was good to have a well-lined stomach. The tasting menu just has one flight listed for non-club members, of four wines for $16. We liked them all so much, and the price was so reasonable, that I bought one each of all four wines, something I have never done before.
Roanoke does have a well-shaded patio in back, where we would have sat if the weather had cooperated. However, it had turned chilly, so our party of five voted to sit inside. We had the room to ourselves, which was nice, and our server and a friend of his who was hanging out at the bar helped us push two small tables together and rearrange the chairs so we were quite comfortable. Each couple shared a tasting, with the designated driver supplied with a glass of water (which we all also got).
Though we didn’t need any snacks, one of our guests asked for a cracker or two, and got a nice little basket of crackers.
As I was paying for our tastings and bottles, I noticed a small list of cheeses and snacks, but I forgot to ask about their policy for bringing in food. I’ll assume dogs are probably allowed on the outside patio, but I would call and ask before coming. By the way, Roanoke also carries Wölffer Estate wines, including their very popular rosé, Summer in a Bottle.
As we sipped, one of our guests asked how this year had been, and our server told us that it looked likely to be a very good year for the harvest, as grapes enjoy the hot dry weather we had for most of the summer. Something to look forward to!
The labels are quite attractive.
2021 Sauvignon Blanc $26
This is a steel fermented wine, with a bit of that mineral aroma steel-fermented wines get, plus a lovely floral scent. We all like the crisp, lemon-lime taste, with more depth than many sauvignon blancs. This is a very drinkable wine, and would be good with food, like a lobster roll.
2021 The Wild $23
What’s so wild about this? It uses wild yeast, which cedes some control over the result to nature, rather than using commercial yeasts. Channing Daughters also uses wild yeasts—those occurring naturally in the air and soil—for their L’Enfant Sauvage. As a result, the taste of the wine can vary from year to year. This one worked out well. A clone of chardonnay, with some muscat, it is steel-fermented, but is softer than some steel chards. Instead of citrus, it has a toasted nut flavor and a long finish. Our guests buy two bottles.
2020 > (Greater Than) $25
Why is the name of this Bordeaux-style blend the mathematical symbol for greater than? There’s a story behind it. Originally, this was called Bond, but it turned out a California winery also had a wine called Bond—a very high-end wine—and they had copyrighted the name. Uh-oh. So Roanoke asked its wine club members for alternative names, and someone came up with the idea of greater than, as in greater than the sum of its parts. And indeed it is. This is a blend of 67% cabernet franc, 19% merlot, and 14% cabernet sauvignon. The aroma includes cherries (likely from the merlot) and spice. I say nutmeg. The tasting menu compares it to a Briermere cherry tart. It’s not sweet, but it is soft, with no tannins, so it’s surely a drink-now wine. I’d have it with mac and cheese—maybe the mac and cheese from Meats Meat, also in Mattituck, just around the corner on Main Road.
2020 Marco Tulio $28
There’s a story behind the name of this Bordeaux blend as well. It is named for the father of one of the founders, who lived to be 99 years old, and died just short of his 100th birthday. His photo adorns the bottle. This one has much more of the cherry aroma and flavor, not surprising, given that this blend is 66% merlot, 21% cabernet franc, and 13% cabernet sauvignon. This is drier than >, with some slight tannins. I taste tart plums and a little spice. I think I’d pair it with spaghetti carbonara.
Reasons to visit: cozy tasting room conveniently located in the midst of Love Lane’s food mecca; all four of the tasting menu wines; a place to buy Wölffer Estate wines.
We had a plan. The young members of our group (see my blog about Jamesport Farm Brewery) would enjoy ice skating on the rink in Greenport, while three of the adults would make the short trek to Matchbook Distilling Company. The best laid plans…the rink was closed! But the blacksmith shop was open, plus hot chocolate at Aldo’s and several rounds on the carousel (where the youngest caught the brass ring for the first time), kept them occupied while, indeed, we three meandered through the back streets of a residential neighborhood until we came to an unassuming, low-slung warehouse building. Inside was a fascinating and unexpected scene, one to which we hope to return.
This is the entrance, next to a small parking lot.
Matchbook Distilling makes liquors and liqueurs—which is sort of like saying Disney makes rides. And what a ride we had! In the sleek tasting room, we sat in high chairs at a bar and perused the three tasting flights on offer. Categorized as Bright, Bold, and Punchy, each included tastes of three products. The Punchy was $20, and the Bold $25. Though the pour may seem small to those used to beer and wine flights, remember the higher alcohol content of these drinks. It was plenty, and even allowed the three of us to taste all six of the samples we got—plus a seventh in response to our enthusiasm.
My usual tasting buddy and I opted for the Bold flight—out of which I bought bottles of two of our sippers—and the third member of our crew got the Punchy one. He, by the way, had actually been to Matchbook before, when he participated in the Gin Experience, in which you get to create your own unique gin by combining the many ingredients on offer, an experience he thoroughly enjoyed. You have to make a reservation to do that, and, until recently, you also needed a reservation to do a tasting, which is partly why we hadn’t been there before. However, it seems that on a Saturday afternoon they will take walk-ins. I would call or email to check on that.
As we were finishing our tasting, we were invited to accompany a group setting out on a tour of the facilities, which they do at regular intervals on the weekend. The tour only takes about fifteen minutes, and is very impressive. Our guide led us through some doors at the far end of the tasting room, and we entered a cavernous warehouse facility, filled with gleaming machines, wooden barrels, and huge bags of grains and other ingredients. For example, we saw large vats filled with halved blood oranges, for their blood orange liqueur. They process 8,000 pounds of blood oranges to make 6,000 bottles, we were told.
The lab!Blood oranges.I like orange liqueurs, so this is on my list for next time.
Back in the tasting room, we saw a list of snacks, though we didn’t need any, and also of cocktails on offer.
I learned all sorts of random bits of distilling lore, including that they use something called a dunder pit to make some of their rum, which is an open pit in the manner of Jamaican rum producers. Basically, it is analogous to the everlasting stocks some cooks will make, with some of a previous batch added to each next batch, leading to deep and complex flavors. Matchbook’s dunder pit is already three years old. They also make a point of using organic and local ingredients as much as possible.
Like Channing Daughters, my favorite winery for all its experimentation with new flavors and combinations, Matchbook calls themselves an R+D distillery, in that they are constantly trying new things. I guess I’ll have to go back.
In no particular order, these are the drinks we tried:
Flatlander Aleppo Pepper $63
Described on their website as “New York Corn Whiskey with Aleppo Peppers, aged in a Red Wine Cask,” this looks like any whiskey, but has a taste all its own. It smells of allspice and pepper and smoke, elements that are also in the taste. “It has a kick,” sagely observes my tasting buddy. I could see sipping this neat, or with just a drop or two of water.
Mad King Hopped Apple Brandy $53
I find the aroma of this somewhat medicinal, and the taste as well, but our friend likes it.
Wall Flower $35
This is a dunder rum, made partially with the product of the dunder pit. It has a lovely flowery aroma, and would be wonderful in a daquiri.
Ritual Sister $68
Have you ever had a liquor distilled from pineapple? No, neither had I. Our server described how, over at the Lin Beach House (where a group of the Matchbook people live) they made a fire in a pit and roasted pineapples for three days, partly as Covid lockdown distraction. The result in an almost too-easy-to-drink tipple, with smoky and fruity tastes.
Late Embers Sunchoke + Honey $60
I really like mezcal, so I was intrigued to try this version made with sunchokes. I’ve had sunchokes, a tuber with a crisp texture somewhat like a water chestnut. Well, apparently it has the same “chains of fructose molecules, called inulin” as agave, according to the Matchbook website, and has the advantage of growing like a weed in the Northeast. They use their firepit for this as well, and smoke and steam the sunchokes. It smells like a mezcal, and tastes like one, too. I buy a bottle. It is smoky and fruity and delicious, and that evening our friend combines it with reposado tequila, Grand Marnier, freshly squeezed lemon, lime, and orange juice, and a bit of agave syrup to make transcendental margaritas, which we have with seviche made with local bay scallops we pick up at Braun’s on our way home. (Then for dinner we have tuna steaks and Channing Daughters rosé, with Nofodoco doughnuts for dessert. Not too shabby.)
Metamodernity Bourbon $78
LIV makes a bourbon, but I like this one better. It’s made with corn, wheat, barley, and oats, and has some of the sweetness you expect in a bourbon, but also more flavor than most. It actually smells to me like a corn muffin! I buy a bottle of this, too, and find it makes a perfect night-cap, with just a touch of water and one ice cube.
Bling Nova Wheat Vodka $37
Because I got into a gin vs. vodka discussion with one of the people behind the bar, he suggests that I try their vodka, which he notes has more flavor than most. He’s right. It has a subtle taste of grains. If you’re looking to boycott Russian vodkas, you might try a bottle of this.
Reasons to visit: you like hard liquor and are open to trying new versions of old favorites; they are like a bunch of brilliant mad scientists, trying all sorts of unusual ingredients and methods; you’d like a tour of a distillery; you want to try your hand at blending your own gin; you want to try something new, not a winery or brewery or cidery; you’re on vacation in Greenport and want to do a tasting in walking distance of downtown.
We used to love to go to Diliberto, and went so often that Sal Diliberto greeted us as friends. But, as is increasingly common on the North Fork, at some point he decided to sell his beloved vineyard, and it was bought by Jacqui Fusco and Greg Goodale, North Fork natives. One aspect of the tasting room we loved was the trompe l’oeil mural that made you feel as though you were sitting in an Italian piazza. Well, that is gone, but the room is beautifully re-done, decorated by one of the owners of Lumber + Salt, a salvage and antique store that specializes in reclaimed and repurposed items. For example, the shelving behind the bar, which itself includes part of a gate, is made of hardware pieces from the 1940s. A gigantic lamp is made from the top of a windmill.
Giant lamp made from the top of a windmill!As more and more wineries and restaurants are doing, they put their menu online, accessed through a QR code.
Is Sal’s pizza oven still in the kitchen, we asked, and our server said it was, but they were not currently offering pizza, though, she noted, Sal was very generous as he helped them take over his place. Instead, they offer fairly standard cheese and charcuterie platters and a few other snacks. We decided to try BobbySue’s nuts, which turned out to be a variety called “Nuts Over Olives,” but which we did not particularly like. After we discussed the taste of them—a somewhat sweet amalgam of nuts and bits of olive—and admitted we did not care for them, she kindly offered us plain nuts, and then, when we declined, took the $5 bag of nuts off our bill.
We had the tasting room mostly to ourselves on this chilly November Thursday, but we noted that the renovation meant they have more seats, plus more tables and chairs on the porch and out on the lawn. Cute touch—the chairs around the porch table were draped with cozy-looking blankets. By the way, if you check out their web site you will see quite a few Italian words, honoring the new owners’ love of Italian culture, food, and wines. They even have an espresso machine behind the bar.
Wanting to try the full array of their wines, we opted for two flights, one of whites and one of reds, for $22 and $24, respectively. The tastes came to the table in sturdy wooden boxes, four round-bottomed glasses in each, filled with a generous amount of wine. We didn’t finish most of them, not because we didn’t like them, but because it was more wine than we wanted to have. Our server noted that the merlot and the Tre are still Diliberto’s wines, but the rest are their own. Overall, we felt that the wines were pleasant, but not exciting.
2020 Sauvignon Blanc $32
The tasting notes mention “white peach,” and I agree, plus lemon. This is a light, dry, refreshing white, good to have with oysters (which I hear are offered here on weekends).
2020 Sole Chardonnay $35
Our server noted that the name is Italian for sun—not fish, though it would be good with a nice filet of sole. It is a light, steel-fermented chard, with a slightly piney aroma, some citrus, and what the tasting notes call “apple and guava.” I would say, green apple.
2020 White Merlot $40
This category of wines—whites made from red grapes, with minimal skin contact, but not categorized as rosés—seems to be getting more popular. This one is a pretty pale pink, with an aroma of cherries, a touch sweet, and easy to drink.
2018 Reserve Chardonnay $40
I’m often not fond of oaked chardonnays, but this one is not too oaky, so I don’t mind it. The aroma is slightly funky and woodsy, and so is the taste. My tasting buddy says it is “nice,” which is pretty much what we’ve sa;id of all the wines so far.
2017 Cabernet Franc $33
I smell peppercorns, and my tasting buddy agrees. This is a light red, a bit peppery but mild, dry, a red one could drink with roast chicken.
The array of wines, including a couple of holdovers from Diliberto’s.
2017 Mercato $35
A 50/50 blend of cabernet franc and merlot, we again categorize this wine as nice. I know, not a very expressive term, but it seems apropos. We taste some cherry from the merlot, and some spice from the cab franc, but, as my husband says, “there’s not much to it.”
2015 Merlot $42
This wine is still Diliberto’s bottling, and, in contrast to the above, my pal says “there’s something to it.” I agree, that it is the most interesting wine so far today, with lots of typical merlot cherry aroma and taste, plus purple plum.
Tre Blend $45
As the name suggests, this is a Bordeaux-type blend of three wines—65% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, and 15% cabernet franc. This is actually one of the few wines we finish, as it is very pleasant to drink, and would go well with a cheese tray, if we had ordered one. I don’t know how much longer this will be available, since it is another one of Diliberto’s wines.
Reasons to visit: fascinating décor, worth examining; intimate room; all the wines are easy to drink, though none are outstanding, but my favorites were the sauvignon blanc and the Tre; generous pour.
Many wineries offer visitors the opportunity to join their wine club. We have limited ourselves to two—Channing Daughters and Pellegrini—but I’ve often read the brochures of other places. I can certainly see the advantages of wine clubs, both for the members and the wineries. As a member, you get a regular—usually quarterly—supply of wines from a winery you have liked, plus various perks, including free tastings and/or glasses of wine, reduced prices on bottles, and invitations to or reduced prices on various events at your chosen winery, such as musical performances or catered meals. And the winery, obviously, has a guaranteed income stream, plus a loyal following. Win/win.
Living on the North Fork offers the added convenience of needing only a short drive to pick up one’s wine club selections—though I think all of them also will mail your selections to you, subject to the laws in your state.
Another perk of living on the North Fork is the fascination of watching the vines go from winter dormancy to spring bud break to fall ripening. Right now, the vines are beautiful. The little newsletter which came with our club choices describes what is happening to the grapes now:
“Veraison refers to the time when the grapes begin turning color and the vines start to transport their energy from their roots into the grapes. During this period of ripening, the acid levels in the grapes fall (particularly malic acid which leaves tartaric acid as the primary acid) and hexose sugars (glucose, fructose) begin to accumulate in the grape. The chlorophyll in the berries is replaced by carotenoids in white varieties and xanthophylls in the reds. The end result is that the fruit begins to get more flavorful, colorful, concentrated, and sweeter, which is crucial to making delicious wine!”
We took our four tastes to what we now think of as “our” table, out on the front lawn, on this warm, breezy day, and had a pleasant time, despite the traffic going by on Main Road. Two other small groups sat nearby, drinking glasses of wine. The courtyard was tented yet again, and the server noted they’d had two weddings the past weekend, and another was scheduled for the weekend to come. We took care to try wines we’d not had the last time—easy given the menu of fourteen wines.
*2019 Gewürztraminer $24.99
This is probably the hardest wine to spell, and also one that is not always easy to like. I liked this one, but my tasting buddy did not, proclaiming it “too sweet.” I insisted that what he was calling sweet was actually fruitiness, and said I tasted gooseberries. He disclaimed any knowledge of what gooseberries taste like. We both agreed that the aroma was agreeably fruity, and there was a definite citrus flavor, like a sweetish lemon. I noted some minerality on the finish, and that it would be good with spicy food.
*2020 REJOYCE $24.99
A blend of 65% chardonnay and 35% sauvignon blanc, this wine has a pleasant smell of freshly cut grass plus metal. It’s definitely not sweet, with flavors of lemon (a lot) and cucumber. It would be good with oysters or clams.
*2015 Cabernet Sauvignon $69.99
According to the description on the placemat, this wine spends 19 months in French oak—which might have been a bit too much. It is quite oaky, with some berry taste, but I compared it to chewing on tree bark. My husband said it was “tangy.” The aroma is of sweet berries and tobacco. Maybe it needs to age longer.
*2020 East End Select Barbeque Red $24.99
Made from 100% petit verdot grapes, but aged in steel rather than oak, this is, as the name suggests, intended as a more casual wine. I taste berries and plums, and assert it is dry. My tasting buddy and I diverge again, as he insists it is too sweet. I argue that he’s seeing fruit, once again, as sweetness. “Not in my mouth!” he replies. Well, that’s wine tasting for you. Disagreement is perfectly acceptable. He also notes that he could see drinking this with cheese during cocktail hour, but not with a meal.
Reasons to visit: good all-around winery; snacks allowed; they also sell the North Fork merlot, chardonnay, and rosé, all well-priced reliable everyday wines ($30 for three big bottles); the gewürztraminer, REJOYCE, and BBQ Red.
NoFo Wineaux 