EV&EM: Is it Worth it?

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, Dan Abrams, Ev&Em, evandem, Lightly Chilled Red, North Fork, pinot noir, snacks available, wine tasting March 11, 2025

March 7, 2025

We were sitting in our living room Friday afternoon when I looked out the window and noted that it was both sunny and above freezing—metrological conditions that have not existed for a while. “Why don’t we go do a tasting?” I asked. So we put on our shoes and headed out to ev&em winery, which we had last been to not long after Dan Abrams bought Laurel Lake and changed, well, everything except the exterior, which still looks like a traditional farmhouse. Inside, the décor is sleek and modern, with a gas fireplace, a long bar, and plenty of tables and chairs (lacking last time we stopped in!), plus ample seating on a side porch.

We were immediately greeted—well, there were only two other couples there—and told we could sit anywhere we chose, so we took a table facing the fireplace. I mean, it was above freezing, but not exactly summer. Still, sparkling, or tap? We chose tap, a chilled bottle of which was promptly provided. (Sparkling or still would have set us back $5 or $10, depending on the size.)

There are three flights to choose from: Classic, of four wines for $38; ev&em, of four for $32; or a wine and chocolate pairing flight, with four wines and four chocolate truffles, for $50. $12 or $18 for four chocolates seemed a bit steep to us, so we decided to share the Classic option. However, I saw that it included their barrel fermented chardonnay, and since I tend not to like oaked chards, I decided to ask if I could sub in one wine from the other tasting. We also wanted a little snack, but nothing as big as a cheese or charcuterie board, so settled on a bag of potato chips ($3.50).

Soon, our server came to take our order. Could I have the Lightly Chilled Red instead of the oaked chard? I could, but she explained that their chardonnay was aged in neutral oak, so it would not have that buttery taste I dislike. How about if she gave me just a splash of it to taste, along with the red? I have a principle of never turning down a taste, so I said yes, and added in the order of potato chips.

She returned with a placemat with circles for the four tastes and four wine glasses, two of which she filled with the two chardonnays on the menu, then added a glass of the red. There was plenty to share. After a while, another server came with the two reds in the tasting, and I reminded her that we had asked for chips. She handed us a bag, and then I had to ask for napkins as well. (Most wineries will give you a plate or two for chips.)

2023 Steel Fermented Chardonnay $40

This has a lovely aroma of Granny Smith apples plus some minerality, and tastes of green apple, pineapple, and tangerine (though my tasting buddy is not so sure of the latter). It’s quite nice, but so are other North Fork chardonnays that don’t cost $40.

2023 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $45

She is right, it is not buttery, but I’m still not fond of it. The aroma is a bit funky, I think something that I’ve heard described as “forest floor.” My husband says he likes the taste better than the smell. Again, I get some pineapple, plus some spice, maybe nutmeg? We don’t finish it.

Lightly Chilled Red NV (non-vintage) $32

One sip, and I am sure this is a steel-fermented red, an assumption validated by our server when she returns, though she does not know what percentage of different grapes go into it. It’s a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and pinot noir. This is a light, bright, fresh-tasting drink, with tastes of cranberry and raspberry. Good red for those who don’t care for red wines.

2022 Pinot Noir $65

“Ooh,” I tell my tasting buddy, “I really like this.” “How much is it?” he asks. I tell him. “You don’t like it that much!” he answers. I guess he’s right, though it is better than the average pinot noir out here, with yummy flavors of blackberry and a delicious mouth feel.

2022 Cabernet Sauvignon $58

This one doesn’t have much aroma, and is somewhat of a letdown after the pinot noir. It has some nice spice and berry notes, but not much depth. And, like all the wines we’ve tasted today, the question of value arises. Is it worth the price being charged? Given that there are other North Fork wines of similar quality for less, I think not. Others may differ, or like the celebrity connection.

Reasons to visit: pleasant tasting room, with a fireplace for winter warmth; plenty of outdoor space for the warmer weather; the pinot noir, if you don’t mind the price, and the Lightly Chilled Red if you want to serve a red to someone who usually drinks whites.

*These couches look like a nice spot to sit with friends.*

*The deck is roomy, plus there is an outside area.*

Bridge Lane: Sunshine and Rainbows

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Bridge Lane, chardonnay, dogs allowed, merlot, North Fork, outside food allowed, pinot noir, Red Blend, rose, sauvignon blanc, snacks available, white merlot, wine tasting September 2, 2024

August 30, 2024

Though Bridge Lane is close to where we live, we hadn’t been there since 2021, so when a nice afternoon with no plans presented itself, we decided to head there. It’s been a frustrating summer for weather, sometimes too hot, other times too cold, and surprisingly rainy. I’ve turned off my automatic sprinkling system several times, figuring why pay for water (and deplete the aquifer), when Mother Nature is being so generous. But this Labor Day weekend afternoon was sunny and warm, without being too warm, so off we went.

The tasting room is on the corner of Sound Avenue and Cox Neck Road, but is screened from the traffic with vegetation and walls, making the outside rainbow-striped tables feel sheltered. We were the only ones there for a while, until a large family arrived, bearing children and picnic food. They apologized for invading “our” space!

On this quiet afternoon we entered the small tasting room and ordered a single tasting to be shared, and the pleasant young women behind the bar quickly filled six glasses (for $18, up only three dollars since three years ago) on a tray, and handed it to us to bring outside ourselves. One interesting feature here is that five of the six, excepting only the pinot noir, were filled from taps, not bottles. Which reminds me to mention that wine here can be ordered by the glass, can, bottle, box, or, believe it or not, keg, which gives me a whole new image of a kegger (rosé for a bachelorette party?). Last time we were here, our guests bought a couple of boxes to take home, and seemed happy with their purchase.

Unlike in the past, they now offer snacks for sale, a “sweet board” and a “salty board,” both featuring an array of snacks for $28, plus the ubiquitous bags of North Fork potato chips (great chips, by the way). They still allow outside food, and pups are welcome at the outside tables if kept leashed. By the way, right across Cox Neck is a little shopping center, featuring a deli and a gourmet take-out food shop, and perhaps some day, if it ever opens, a pizza place. (Check the hours for Wendy’s Deli and Ali Katz, since neither is open every day.)

*Note that there are a couple of non-alcoholic beverages for the designated driver, etc.*

Having just had lunch, we skipped the snacks and carried our tray of tastes outside, to sit at one of the rainbow-striped picnic tables, nicely shaded by an umbrella, and began our tasting. Music of the “Margaritaville” genre played softly in the background.

Each glass sat atop a brief description of the wine inside it. All the wines are $20 per bottle.

White Merlot

But, you may object, isn’t merlot a red wine grape? Yes, indeed it is, but if you don’t let the juice ferment with the skin, you can get white or rosé, depending on how much contact with the skin it has. This was actually our favorite of the day, a light, pleasant white, with an aroma of citrus and honeysuckle. I think it tastes like pink grapefruit; a bit acidic but also smooth, says my tasting buddy. Now if only we had a dozen oysters…

Sauvignon Blanc

Another simple wine, with a funky aroma of crushed ferns (trust me on this, I have a whole garden bed full of ferns), neither sweet nor very dry. I taste pear and lime, though the tasting notes suggest melon. I’ve recently been enjoying the ripe melons from the farm stand, and this does not taste like any of them.

Chardonnay

“I’ve had better,” notes my fellow taster, and I agree. This is a very light and simple chard, with maybe some Granny Smith apple taste. Almost no aroma.

Rosé

The little label under the glass says, “Notes of guava and peach blossom.” I’ve never eaten a peach blossom, but I have had guavas. Maybe an underripe guava? This is another very light and easy to drink wine.

Red Blend

There’s no information as to which wines are in this blend, but I’m pretty sure, given the aroma and taste of cherry, that there’s plenty of merlot in there. It is dry, with some tannins. I say I taste plums, but my buddy says, “Plums would be pushing it.”

Pinot Noir

This wine has a bit more to it, with tastes of blackberry and pomegranate, quite tannic and dry. They say strawberry, which I do not taste. For the price, this is not bad, and if I were to sit here with a slice of pizza (c’mon, pizzeria, open up), this is the wine I’d get.

*We did not explore, but there are some games in the background.*

Reasons to visit: low-key pleasant setting; dogs, children, and outside snacks allowed; very reasonable prices; the white merlot and the pinot noir; wines available by the keg(!), or other more conventional containers.

*All done! Just the right amount of wine for the two of us.*

McCall Wines: Cherries for the Win

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Burger night, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, dogs allowed, Field Blend, McCall Wines, merlot, Miguel, no outside food, North Fork, petit verdot, pinot noir, snacks available, wine tasting April 21, 2024

April 19, 2024

*Ornamental cherry trees line the road to the tasting room.*

Cherries for the win? Have I been playing slot machines? Nope, just going to a winery during cherry blossom season. As we walked towards the entrance to McCall’s winery with our friends, the winery aficionados, we paused to admire the blooms on some ornamental cherry trees, noting that the Greenport cherry blossom festival was scheduled for Saturday. Then, as a nosh with our tastings, we got the fruit and nut tray, on which the star was definitely the juicy dried cherries. (At $10 I thought it was a bit overpriced.) And, as we were leaving, I commented that those dried cherries were the star of the day. Were the wines bad? No, just underwhelming.

*We had already made some inroads in the nut and fruit tray, but it was still a small serving.*

We were headed to a tasting for the second time this week to take advantage of Locals Week. About twenty-two wineries were offering two for the price of one tastings, with some also featuring 10-15% off bottles of wine. It seems that no one checks your id, by the way, so even if you are not local you can probably safely enjoy these deals next spring.

*Miguel behind the bar, with a photo of Theodore Roosevelt over his shoulder.*

McCall has a cool little tasting room that began life as a stable, and still has stalls, repurposed as nooks for tables, with all sorts of farming bric-a-brac decorating the walls. We also noted a display of articles about Theodore Roosevelt, and wondered about the connection. Miguel, the general manager, was manning the bar, and he explained that Russ McCall admired President Roosevelt for his dedication to conservation, a cause Mr. McCall also champions.

*This is just a small sample of all the “stuff” on the walls.*

The room was also cool in temperature, and we kept our jackets on, even after Miguel turned on a little stove heater next to us.

We ordered two tastings, with each couple sharing one, and Miguel brought us the wine in little carafes, plus glasses. He also brought us a bottle of chilled water and some cups, always a nice touch. We decided to both get the Rouge Flight, of three wines for $25, so we could compare notes as we sipped and chatted.

2016 Estate Pinot Noir $30

“I much prefer pinot noir from Oregon,” our friend, who has been to several wineries in Oregon, noted. This wine has the sweet aroma of Cheracol, a cough medicine much favored by my mother when I was little, but is dry, with slight tannins. It has a bit of a cherry taste, but is not very interesting. “Okay, but not spectacular,” opined my tasting buddy.

This may look like a lot of wine for one tasting. That’s because our server misunderstood when we ordered, and thought we wanted four flights, not two. Very nicely, he only charged us for what we had ordered.

2016 Estate Merlot $24

This was our favorite of the day, a fairly typical North Fork merlot, dry, with some taste of not quite ripe plums. We discussed the prevalence of merlot and chardonnay on the North Fork, figuring they grew well here. Perhaps the pinot noir grapes are not as happy here as in Oregon?

2018 Field Blend $26

I assume “Field Blend” means all the grapes for this blend are grown in the same field. According to their website, this is a blend of 75% merlot, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot, and 5% cabernet franc. It has lots of red fruit taste and a slightly funky aroma. It’s fine, but, again, not exciting.

*One of the cozy nooks created by the old stable configuration.*

Reasons to visit: pleasant, quiet tasting room; dogs allowed; burger night, which will recommence on May 16^th “and continue every Thursday and Friday 4-8 pm through the summer”; the Estate Merlot. Burger night features delicious burgers made with beef from the Charolais cattle the McCalls raise, and has become quite popular. Make reservations if you want to go! I wrote about it in my blog on August 3, 2023.

Sparkling Pointe: Perks of Being a Local

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Blanc de Blancs, Brazil, Brut, Brut Rose, Carnaval, Champagne, chardonnay, Cynthia Rosicki, merlot, muscat, no dogs, no outside food, North Fork, NV Cuvee Carneval Blanc, NV Cuvee Carneval Rose, Pinot Meunier, pinot noir, Rio, rose, Sparkling Pointe, Tom Rosicki, Topaz Imperial Brut Rose, wine tasting April 17, 2024

April 15, 2024

*It was too nice to stay indoors, though the tasting room is quite attractive.*

We were not celebrating tax day, but rather “Locals Week” in the wineries. So we called up our friends the winery aficionados and headed to Sparkling Pointe, where they were offering two tastings for the price of one. Since both couples prefer to split tastings, it worked out perfectly.

*A view of the terrace and our first taste, an easy-to-drink rosé.*

The weather, in this fickle month of April, was also perfect, warm and sunny, so we opted to sit outside on their lovely terrace overlooking the vineyard. As soon as we settled ourselves, a waitress appeared with four glasses of their NV (non-vintage) Cuvée Carnaval Rosé, a “welcome toast” offered to everyone. More about that later.

After we told our waitress that we would be getting the two-for-one flights, the “Grand Tasting Flight,” ($25 for four tastes) plus a package of Z Crackers ($6), which were slim and light and salty, we began chatting. It had been a while since we were out together, so there was plenty to talk about, plus we always enjoy discussing various winery issues, such as price points. For example, we wonder whether North Fork wines tend to cost more than some similar wines from elsewhere due to the high cost of living on the Fork.

*Tom Rosicki, the owner, with his wife Cynthia, of Sparkling Pointe.*

As we were chatting, a tall blond man came over to our table, and introduced himself as Tom Rosicki, one of the owners. We asked him about the Brazilian connection evident in the “Carnaval” names of some of his wines and some of the décor of the tasting room and shop. He said that he and his wife Cynthia, the inspiration for the name of his new favorite of their wines, had gone to Rio and fallen in love with the place and the people. Carnaval is a reference to what they call Mardi Gras in New Orleans, or Fat Tuesday, and is a huge celebration in Rio, with elaborate parades and costumes. “Guess how many times I’ve been there?” he asked. “Twenty?” Nope. “Sixty-three! And we’re going again next week.” He also pointed out a statue far away at the end of a row of vines, and informed us that it is a (small) replica of the famous Christ the Redeemer statue which has become a symbol of Rio, like the Eiffel Tower for Paris.

*The colorful painting over the bar is all about Carnaval.*

After he left our table, I wondered if his chattiness had anything to do with my notebook, but he then ambled over to the other tables on the terrace and visited with everyone else who was there. So I guess he just enjoys visiting with his guests. By the way, he also offered that the winery is a popular wedding venue.

*At the end of the row, you can just make out the statue.*

Sparkling Pointe, as hinted in the name, only offers sparkling wines, which they can’t call champagnes, since only wines made in the Champagne region of France can bear that name, but the wines are made using the méthode champenoise, a traditional, hands-on method that produces champagne-like wines. Though we liked some of the wines better than others, and had some differences of opinion, overall we enjoyed the experience.

NV Cuvée Carnaval Rosé ($36)

A blend of 39% pinot noir, 27% chardonnay, and 34% merlot, this is a good choice for a first impression, as it is definitely a crowd pleaser. It has the expected strawberry aroma and taste of a rosé, plus beautiful bubbles. It is dry, but not too dry, with a pleasant fruitiness.

2. 2019 Brut ($31)

I have had the opportunity to taste many variations on champagne, from a rather awful libation called Cold Duck to vintage Dom Perignon. This falls somewhere in the middle, more towards the Dom Perignon side of the range. Another blend, this time of 50% chardonnay, 36% pinot noir, and 14% pinot meunier, this tastes like a classic champagne, dry, with tastes of apple and pear, and it also has the characteristic yeasty aroma of sparkling wines, caused, I’ve been told, by the second fermentation in the bottle. I like it.

3. 2021 Topaz Impérial Brut Rosé ($44)

The waitress pours the last of the bottle into our glasses, and we wonder whether we are underwhelmed by this wine because it has been open too long. It has barely any bubbles, and not much taste. We much prefer the Carnaval Rosé (which is also cheaper). This wine blends 45% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir, and 15% pinot meunier.

4. 2018 Blanc de Blancs ($48)

True to its name, this is 100% chardonnay. We enjoy its warm yeasty aroma and tastes of apples and toast. The waitress mentions starfruit, but we’re not sure what that tastes like. As I recall, starfruit’s appearance is more dramatic than its taste. Nicely dry. I like this, too.

5. NV Cuvée Carnaval Blancs (30)

If you read my blog, you know I prefer dry wines to sweet ones, though I do make an exception for dessert wines. This is not quite as sweet as a dessert wine, but it is a bit sweet for my taste. It is a blend, again, of 47% pinot noir, 28% chardonnay, 23% merlot, and 2% muscat. Though muscat is such a small percentage of the mix, our friend wonders whether it contributes to the sweetness. I taste thyme honey and citrus.

*The little gift shop has some Carnaval costumes and masks, and also some of the snack items for sale.*

Reasons to visit: you like sparkling wines (duh!); lovely patio and attractive tasting room; the Cuvée Carnaval Rosé and the 2019 Brut, in particular, though the only one we really did not care for was the Topaz Impérial Brut Rosé; no outside food allowed, but they do have a nice menu of cheeses and charcuterie and other snacks. No pets, and they request that children stay seated.

RGNY: On a Winter’s Day

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, child-friendly, menu of snacks available, merlot, North Fork, pinot noir, RGNY, rose, sauvignon blanc, Scielo, Sparkling Riesling, Sparkling Rose, Tinto, travel, viognier, white merlot, wine, wine tasting February 22, 2024

February 19, 2024

It is quiet on the North Fork in February. Snow fences stretch across fields, farm stands have “See you in the Spring” signs, and roadside platforms have little stacks of firewood, $5 per pile. However, our visitors found plenty to do, including a trip to Tanger and an odyssey to the end of the island, where we had a cold, windy, but invigorating hike along the trail in Orient Point County Park and participated in the Great Backyard Bird Count (34 seagulls, three little ducks, and two immature cormorants).

*The end of the North Fork and some birds.*

Then it was time to do a wine tasting. Where to go? I realized we hadn’t been to RGNY since 2021, and it is close to our house, so off we went. The main entrance now seems to be the one to the right, as you face the building, so we opened that door and were greeted by John, whom I recognized from other wineries! He quickly showed our party of six (4 adults, 2 children) to a nice round table in the high-ceilinged, wood-beamed tasting room (which one young guest noted “smells like wood”—sort of like a cabin on a lake), where a QR code on the table sent us to the menus.

*Don’t be fooled by that sunshine; it was cold outside!*

There is a fairly typical menu of snacks, with more substantial choices available on the weekend, but we had just had a delicious and very filling lunch of sandwiches from Ammirati (on Love Lane in Mattituck), so we went straight to the menu of flights. There are four choices of flights, all featuring four wines: the RG Reserve for $34, the Scielo for $24, the White Wine for $27, or the I (Heart) NY for $27. Since the last one includes non-North Fork wines, we opted for the first three, planning to do some sharing of tastes. Well, even with sharing we left some wine in the glasses, because you get a VERY generous pour there. The youngsters in the group were not forgotten, as Donna, our pleasant waitress, offered them glasses of orange juice—served in tall sparkling-wine glasses—as they had leftover OJ from a brunch on Sunday (no charge!).

Donna gave us a quick overview of the wines in our tastings—there were a couple of overlaps—and then left us to ourselves, checking back at regular intervals. At the end, we had an interesting discussion with John about the wine philosophy of RGNY—low intervention, nature-friendly practices. Overall, there were no wines we disliked, and several we liked very much, though our group had some differences of opinion (As the French say, to each his own.).

*Some of the special events that are available at RGNY.*

I started out trying to keep the wines from each tasting separate, but that didn’t work out, so here are the wines as I took note of them.

*Tiny cacti decorate every table, perhaps a nod to the Mexican origins of the Rivero Gonzalez family.*

NV Sparkling Rosé $41

I like starting a tasting with a sparkler, as it feels very festive. This has the typical rosé aroma and flavor of strawberry, and is dry, with definite minerality and tiny bubbles. There’s also a slight flowery aroma. This is a pleasant, cocktail-time bubbly, though I think the price is a bit high.

2021 Sauvignon Blanc $29

“Melon on the nose,” says one of our guests, and I agree, though I try to eschew “wine words.” Speaking of “eschew,” he also describes the wine as a bit chewy. It has more body than one would expect from a sauvignon blanc, with what I describe as a silky mouth feel, and a taste of lemon zest. It is aged in neutral oak. I like it, but our other guest says her appreciation of this wine is lessened due to “unmet expectations,” as it lacks the grassiness she likes in New Zealand sauvignon blancs. Not being a cow, I’m perfectly happy to drink this.

2022 Sparkling Riesling $31

However, she very much likes this next wine, a cloudy (because not disgorged) sparkler with lemon/lime and kiwi flavor, very dry. I am not as fond of it, but agree it would be good with some local oysters (like the Peconic Bay ones we had the night before) or even fried calamari or fish and chips.

2021 Viognier $41

Donna explained to us that most of the wines here that are aged in wood are aged in second use (also described as neutral) oak barrels, which means that the wood plays less of a role in the taste of the wines than if they had used new barrels. Though this is only slightly oaked, which smooths it out, it also has not much taste. I say it is inoffensive.

2019 Riesling $28

I will almost never order a riesling unless I have tasted it before, since they can be too sweet for me, but this is a riesling I would order. It is dry, with pleasant minerality and some taste of herbs. We discuss the typical “cat pee” smell, which one guest suggests could more appetizingly be described as “musky.” I compare it to the smell of water in which cut flowers have sat perhaps a day too long. Fortunately, it doesn’t taste like that!

*The White Flight*: *note the cloudiness of the Sparkling Riesling on the left.*

2019 White Merlot $38

We have quite a divergence of opinion on this wine, a white wine made from red wine grapes (Wine color comes from the grape skins, so if you don’t let red wine grape juice sit on the skins at all, you get white wine; sit briefly, rosé; longer, reds.). My husband doesn’t like it at all, I think it is nice, and one guest notes it has some of that “Long Island foxiness” one used to get more frequently with merlots. It does have lots of flavor, including some earthiness and an aftertaste of mandarin orange.

2021 Rosé $25

Strawberry aroma and flavor, light, dry, minerality, pleasant…I say meh. Still prefer Croteaux!

2022 Pinot Noir $41

Because this is fermented in steel, not oak, it has a pure, clean taste. It has a light red color, with surprisingly nice tannins and an aroma and flavor of cherries. I say this is easy to drink, and it would go well with roast duck, one of our mutual favorite dishes. Our guest agrees, and notes that “pinot noir and duck are best friends.”

2022 Tinto $31

Donna rattled off all the grapes in this blend, but I don’t remember them all, or the proportions: cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec, etc. This is a lovely red, very refined, with flavors of blackberry and currant, and lots of tannins. This could definitely stand up to a hearty beef stew, or even a burger. I could see ordering it if it appeared on a wine list.

*The little gift shop features some objets from Mexico.*

Reasons to visit: spacious tasting rooms, plus ample outdoor areas; child-friendly atmosphere (we were not the only ones there with youngsters); some very good wines, all very drinkable; I especially liked the White Merlot, the Pinot Noir, and the Tinto, while our guests bought to take home the Sparkling Riesling and the Pinot Noir; very generous pour; good menu of snacks and other dishes. If you do the math, you may be wondering how we had three tastings of four wines each, and I only ended up describing nine of them. Some wines appeared in more than one tasting!

Here’s a great gift idea–a “blending kit,” so one can produce one’s own blended red. Like a chemistry kit for grown-ups, noted John, who nodded when I compared it to the blend-your-own gin experience at Matchbook Distilling Company.

Ev & Em: Summer Is a Coming In

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with 2012 Pinot Noir, charcuterie, chardonnay, Ev & Em, gewurztraminer, Laurel Lake, merlot, North Fork, North Fork Potato Chips, pinot noir, rose, sauvignon blanc, snacks available, wine tasting June 7, 2023

*From the outside, it looks like Laurel Lake, but the inside is quite different.*

June 2, 2023

Strawberries at the farm stands! 83 degrees and sunny! It finally felt like summer, and we decided this warm, breezy afternoon was the perfect time to do a tasting. We had tried Ev & Em (the strange name is the result of Dan Abrams, the owner, wanting to name the winery after his children) in March 2022, when they really weren’t fully open. For one thing, they didn’t yet have their furniture. So we figured by now they’d have it together; and they do.

*I’m wondering if they’ll add more inside seating in the winter.*

We were met at the door by a hostess, who escorted us out onto the breezy porch, which has roll-up plastic windows we’ve also seen on boats, and to a table for two. I had asked if we could be seated at a table for four, but she demurred, saying she didn’t know if it was reserved. Really? At 3:30 in the afternoon in the middle of the week? And as it happened, the only other people who entered were a family group with children, who were escorted down the stairs to a table on the lawn, which is apparently the policy. But okay, we were fine.

As we perused the menu—which asserts that this is “where Napa meets the Hamptons” (um, this is not the Hamptons, but okay)—we were served a nice cold bottle of water and two cups. Our waiter appeared, and asked if we had any questions. We discussed the fact that they still have the same winemaker as the winery’s previous iteration, when it was called Laurel Lake, and that there are still a few bottles of Laurel Lake wines around. On the other hand, he noted that this is the first vintage that is really an expression of their wine-making philosophy. As we chatted, I thought he looked familiar, and suddenly he said, “I’ve seen you before! I used to work at One Woman.” Ah ha. It is a small world out here.

There were three flight options available—the Classic Flight, of four wines for $35; the Chocolate Pairing Flight, of four wines and four chocolate truffles for $50; and the Ev&Em2 flight, of four Ev&Em2 wines for $32. We decided to share a Classic flight, with the thought that we might get a glass afterwards of any other wine we wanted to try from their list of eighteen wines. We also ordered a $6 bag of North Fork potato chips (and used the leftover chips to make a delicious omelet the next day from a recipe I found in the New York Times). They also have a variety of cheeses and charcuterie available. Soft pop jazz played in the background as we sipped and chatted.

2021 Rosé $32

I expressed surprise at the appearance of the rosé, which is so pale as to look almost like a white wine, or as my tasting buddy said, “You wouldn’t know by looking that it’s a rosé.” Our waiter had me hold the glass against the white of the menu, and then I could see the faint pink tinge. The wine is a blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewürztraminer, and pinot noir, so three whites and one red, which must account for how pale it is. It also drinks like a crisp, mineral-y white. It has some complexity, but if you are looking for a fruity rosé, this is not it.

*In this close-up, you can see the faint pink tinge of the rose.*

2022 Sauvignon Blanc $40

This steel-fermented sauvignon blanc has almost no aroma, and again is a crisp, refreshing wine, though my husband says it is “not exciting.” The menu describes the taste as “gooseberry and grass,” and if you’ve ever chewed on a blade of grass you get that. I think it is sophisticated, and would pair well with charcuterie, but we agree that the price is somewhat out of line for the North Fork.

2022 Stainless Steel Chardonnay $40

Another white with lots of minerality, and not much fruit. Maybe white peaches, but no citrus. Pleasant.

2021 Pinot Noir $55

Our waiter informs us that this is aged 70% in new oak and 30% in neutral oak. I get lots of minerality again, which seems to be part of their style, with an aroma of eucalyptus and berries. I taste a bit of licorice in this fairly light red. The price? Hmmm…

2019 Merlot $40

If you’re keeping count, you can tell that we’ve come to the end of our tasting, but we have plenty of potato chips and time, so we decide we might like a glass of some other wine. I ask our server, who had been properly attentive—as in there when you want him to be, and not when you don’t—which wines he thinks are the best, and he brings us a small taste of this merlot. It is lean, not fruity, with some minerality. I’m not in love with it, so he offers a taste of one more wine.

*On this warm afternoon, we really appreciated the nice cool water.*

2021 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $45

He’s a bit chagrined when I say I’m not fond of oaked chards, but this one is fine, not too oaky. It fits the general style here, which is lean, not fruity, and sophisticated.

Reasons to visit: pleasant outdoor porch setting; all the wines if you like them with more minerality than fruit, none if you don’t; nice menu of cheeses and charcuterie. Though my tasting pal says he “wouldn’t go out of my way,” I’d come here again for the nice setting and relaxed vibe. Note: they say on their website that groups including children will be seated down on the lawn.

*The area where they seat parties including children. Looks comfy!*

McCall Wines: Here’s the Beef

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Ben's Blend, cabernet franc, chardonnay, Charolais cattle, dogs allowed, McCall Wines, merlot, North Fork, outside food allowed during the week, petit verdot, pinot noir, Pinot Noir Hillside, rose, snack menu, Whole Cluster Rose, wine tasting June 26, 2022

June 24, 2022

If you check out the McCall wines web site and scroll down to the bottom of the shop page, you’ll see something unusual: ground beef, $15. Huh? Yes, the McCalls raise Charolais cattle and sell the grass-fed beef, some of which can be found in the winery shop. You might also spot the white cows in one of their fields as you drive along the Main Road. As I was paying our bill after our tasting, Mrs. McCall urged us to come back on a Thursday or Friday, from 4-8, when they serve burgers made from their beef. If I do, I’ll post about it! And I already know which wine I’ll get a glass of to go with that burger: Ben’s Blend.

*The outdoor setting is quite pleasant.*

The turn-off to the McCall winery is rather subtle, and easy to miss, but it is basically across the street from Pellegrini. You drive around back to a grassy parking area, where you see a lawn dotted with picnic tables and a rustic barn. Inside, there’s a new bar, which wasn’t there the last time we came in 2018, and a couple of stalls with cozy seating areas. Since it was a beautiful day, we opted to sit outside, and Mrs. McCall supplied us with menus. In a few minutes, a server came by with glasses and a bottle of water, a nice touch.

They have a fairly typical small menu of snacks, but we’d just had lunch, so we didn’t get anything. The rest of the menu listed four different flights, of three or four wines each, so we decided to share two flights, so we could try a range of their wines. Then we realized that there was some overlap, in that if we got the pinot flight ($23) and the reserve flight ($30), both included the “Hillside” pinot noir. Could we sub in the estate merlot instead? Sure. And the reserve flight includes a chardonnay aged in oak. Hmmm. A discussion ensued, in which we were assured that the chardonnay is “lightly oaked.” I really do not like those buttery, California-style oaked chards, so we shall see.

*We enjoyed the dappled shade of the trees, but that might make this a bit hard to read!*

Service is friendly and informative, and we chatted with one server about how they fared during the pandemic, since we had not been there since before it. “We were busier than ever,” she informed us. People just were grateful to have someplace to go, and were very respectful, masking if they got up from their tables, for example. She noted that the outside tables are well-spaced. The view is bucolic, as you look out onto the grape vines—though the sense of country peace was temporarily marred as a trimming machine was going up and down the rows. Fortunately, it finished well before we did.

*The noisy machine…well. it is a working farm.*

Overall, my husband commented, the place got plus marks for setting, but he was not overly impressed with the wines, which we found drinkable but not special. We did like the way the wines were served, especially since we were sharing the flights. We each got a wine glass, and then the tastes were brought to the table in little carafes, set down in the order in which they should be tasted.

Pinot Flight:

2021 Whole Cluster Rosé $24

“Better than average,” opined my tasting buddy, as we sipped. This has lots of strawberry aroma, though the taste is more lemony and tart than some rosés. It definitely has some character. I said it was mouth-watering. Made from pinot noir grapes.

*The warm day made our carafe of water quite welcome. We also used it to rinse our glasses between tastes.*

2015 Pinot Noir Estate $30

This one had almost no aroma, and the taste was also somewhat thin. Very dry. I got some blackberry or sour cherry flavor. My husband said it was “simple, not sophisticated.” I think it would be fine with food, but it’s not a sipper.

2014 Pinot Noir “Hillside” $59

“Hillside” refers to the fact that this pinot is from a different area of the vineyard, with somewhat different terroir. We like it better than the previous one, as there is more body to it. The menu says “hibiscus,” but since I don’t know what that smells or tastes like, I can’t say if that’s accurate. I do get some berry taste, and it is very dry.

Reserve Flight:

*Our second flight, after we had poured the chardonnay back into the carafe and poured the merlot.*

2018 Chardonnay Reserve $39

As I feared, we do not care for this. It smells and tastes very strongly of pineapple, and is too sweet for us. It does have a pretty golden color. We pour our tastes back into the carafe.

2015 Merlot Estate $24

This is our replacement for the Hillside pinot, and we like it better. It’s a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with cherry aroma and taste, dry, with some tannins.

*This is about half of what was in the carafe.*

2014 Merlot Reserve $30

I always find it instructional to taste various iterations of the same grape, especially from the same winery. This merlot is “more interesting,” according to my tasting pal, with aromas of cherry, leather, and tobacco. It has lots of tannins, and we discuss that it is the opposite of “fruit forward.” Fruit backward?

2014 Ben’s Blend $58

Named for their original winemaker, who sadly died too young, this is their Bordeaux blend, a mix of 30% each cabernet franc, pinot noir, and merlot, plus 10% petit verdot. We like it the best of the day, appreciating its aromas of berries, leather, and tobacco, plus some nice blackberry fruit tastes. It definitely needs food, however.

*Our “extra” taste of the chardonnay, thoughtfully served with clean glasses.*

Extra! Mrs. McCall stops by our table and sees the almost full carafe of chardonnay. You haven’t tried the chardonnay yet? She asks. No, we tell her, we tried it and didn’t care for it. “Would you like to try our unoaked chardonnay?” she asks. Sure! So she brings over a carafe of it. We like it much better. It is crisp and refreshing, with tastes of citrus and green apple, and we buy two bottles, at $20 each.

Reasons to visit: pleasant outdoor setting with a backdrop of the vines; cozy interior; they allow dogs, but call first to be sure there aren’t any other canine visitors; the Whole Cluster Rosé, the Unoaked Chardonnay, Ben’s Blend; no outside food Friday, Saturday, Sunday, so I assume it’s okay during the week; lovely service; Thursday and Friday burger nights, and you can buy the beef.

*The trailer from which they serve burgers on Thursdays and Fridays.*

Sparkling Pointe: Celebration Time

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, Brut, Brut Seduction, chardonnay, cheese tray, Cuvee Carnaval Blanc, Cuvee Carnaval Rose, Cuvee Carnaval Rouge, merlot, no outside food, North Fork, Pinot Meunier, pinot noir, Reserve Blanc de Blancs, rose, Sparkling Pointe, sparkling wine, Topaz Imperial Rose, wine tasting May 28, 2022

May 24, 2022

*The lovely terrace was empty on this Tuesday.*

There are certain people who make every get-together feel like a celebration. So where better to take that couple than to Sparkling Pointe, where the sparkling wines make every sip feel like a party. In addition, one of our guests is a wine aficionado who has been to many wineries, so I wanted to take him somewhere unusual. I made a reservation that was clearly superfluous, since we had the entire terrace to ourselves, but I wanted to be sure it was open, since we went on a Tuesday when many wineries, stores, and restaurants are closed (at least until after Memorial Day).

We settled ourselves on the flagstone terrace, commenting on how pretty the view out across the vines was. Natalia, our lively and intelligent server, quickly brought each of us a welcoming flute of the 2017 Brut and explained the menu. The bubbly wines—which can’t be called champagne because they are not made in the Champagne region of France—are made using the méthode champenoise, a labor-intensive process. Some are dry, and some are sweet, with the Carnaval labels more on the sweet side. Since one of our guests prefers sweeter wines, we decided that they would share the Flagship flight ($20, for three), which features two of the Carnaval wines, and we would share the Prestige Flight ($30, for three), which has drier sparklers.

*We hungrily attacked the cheese board before I had a chance to take a photo.*

*We quickly finished the baguette slices and, though I like Taralli, they are not ideal as cheese holders.*

Since it was lunchtime, we also ordered a cheese board, which included three cheeses, a little dish of jam, a tiny jar of honey, and some Taralli crackers and sliced baguette. It was plenty for the four of us. (Outside food is not allowed.) As we sipped and munched, we talked and laughed and told stories, and I sometimes forgot to take notes, we were having such a good time.

Tastes are brought to your table one at a time, so the bubbles don’t dissipate, and Natalia quickly noticed that it was taking us longer than average to consume each one, so she allowed extra time between samples. Then, I guess because there was no one else there, or because we were clearly serious about tasting, or because of my notebook, she brought each couple one additional taste. As a result, I could theoretically tell you all about nine of their wines—but, as I said, we were having so much fun being together, my notes are a bit sketchy. I list the wines more or less as we had them, not separated by who had which.

2017 Brut $31

Everyone gets a flute of this “welcome toast,” a very nice gesture. It is made from a blend of 54% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir, and 13% pinot meunier. You might note that two of those grapes are red, yet the wine is pale yellow. That’s because the color in the wine comes from contact with the grape skins—and Sparkling Pointe does have some rosés and even a red sparkler—but this wine has no skin contact. These three grape varieties, by the way, are the same ones traditionally used in the Champagne region of France to make champagne. Anyway, we like it. It is sophisticated and dry, and tastes very like a traditional champagne, though one guest notes it has fewer bubbles.

2017 Blanc de Blancs $48

As you might guess from the name, this is made from all white grapes—100% chardonnay—and has that zippy citrusy taste you might expect from a chard.

2016 Blanc de Noirs $75

In contrast, this is made only from red grapes, 65% pinot noir and 35% pinot meunier. This has a more complex fruity taste, maybe raspberry, and has a nice aroma of yeast, with a touch of something funky. Dry.

NV Cuvée Carnaval Rosé $36

If you examine the Sparkling Pointe menu, you will note that in addition to the usual descriptions of the wines, each wine also has the additional information of when it was disgorged and what the “dosage” of sugar is. The sugar number is easy to decipher, since the higher the number the sweeter the taste. This one has a dosage of 14 g/l, while the previous wine’s is 6. The disgorgement date is the date when the yeast and sediment in the bottle are removed, ending the second fermentation, and giving you a good idea of exactly how old a wine is. Since this is a non-vintage wine (NV), you might like to have that information. A light pink blend of 50% pinot noir, 41% chardonnay, and 9% merlot, this is the bubbly equivalent of a still rosé, slightly sweet, with some strawberry taste.

2019 Topaz Imperial Brut Rosé $44

I was concerned, looking at the pink color, that this blend of 50% chardonnay, 34% pinot noir, and 26% pinot meunier would be too sweet for my taste, but in fact I quite liked it. It has the strawberry taste one expects in a rosé, but is more complex, with some lemon and bread notes.

NV Cuvée Carnaval Blanc $30

The sweet wine lover in the group declared this to be her favorite, while her companion compared it to a prosecco.

2011 Brut Seduction $70

The usually very well-informed Natalia couldn’t tell me why this is called seduction (though I’ll bet she’ll know next time someone asks), but we speculated it could be because it is so good it seduces you. This is the oldest vintage they have, though it was disgorged in 2020, so it aged for quite a long time. It is complex and interesting, with layers of flavor, including some of the buttery flavor you get in an oaked chardonnay. It has almost no bubbles. 54% chardonnay, 46% pinot noir.

*A red sparkling wine is a bit unusual.*

NV Carnaval Rouge $36

This is unusual—a red sparkling wine. It is almost startling to look at. It smells like cranberry juice, and could almost be mistaken for a Cosmo, but, according to our friend, has almost no flavor. “Tastes like wet paper, like a spitball,” he opines. On the other hand, it is an “extra,” not included in the tasting, so no complaints. The menu says it tastes like bubblegum!

2016 Reserve Blanc de Blancs $68

We are very happy with our extra, and in fact, it is my favorite of the day. This is dry, lemony, with some warm pear tastes. Very nice.

*An array of unfinished glasses, which eventually we did finish!*

Reasons to visit: time to celebrate, as they only have sparkling wines, which most people consider as party wines; lovely terrace outside, and elegant room inside, with thoughtful table service; the 2017 Brut, the Blanc de Blancs, and the Blanc de Blancs Reserve, to my taste; the Carnaval Blanc if you like sweeter wine (the term “Carnaval” refers to the owners’ love of Brazil, which can also be seen in some of the gift shop offerings).

*The “Bubbly Boutique” has a limited selection of items, which used to be bigger. You can see the Brazilian influence.*

Duck Walk: Time to Par-tee

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Absenthe, Aphrodite, Beer, cabernet sauvignon, dogs allowed, Duck Walk, gewurztraminer, merlot, North Fork, outside food allowed, pinot grigio, Pinot Meunier, pinot noir, riesling, sauvignon blanc, windmill red, wine tasting March 28, 2022

March 26, 2022

This time the only complicating factor—we thought—was the well-behaved pooch our visitors brought with them. So we carefully planned to go to Jason’s Winery for a tasting, even though we knew Jamesport was holding a St. Patrick’s Day Parade that Saturday. Looking at a map of the parade route, we thought we could get to Jason’s. A couple of detours later, we got there—only to discover that it was the site of an after-parade party, with the grounds packed with cars. Plan B. We parked on a side road and called a couple of other tasting rooms. No dogs; no dogs; okay for a dog, but there’s one here now, said the lovely woman at McCall’s, and the room is small. We popped our heads in anyway, and were barked at. Never mind. Then I remembered that Duck Walk is owned by the same family that owns Jason’s and Pindar—the family of Dr. “Dan” Damianos—and is also “pet friendly.”

*Dr. “Dan” Damianos overlooks the tasting room.*

Though the rain had commenced to fall heavily, we decided to head to Duck Walk as our last possibility, as the afternoon was slipping away. In we went, to be greeted by a wall of sound. Though the live entertainment consisted of one man with a guitar, his amp and mic must have been set on the loudest settings, and the room is cavernous, so it was so noisy we could barely hear the woman at the cash register inside the door. The noise was abetted by perhaps five or six bachelorette parties, easily identifiable by the woman in the midst of each wearing a white veil, including one group whose theme was “disco,” and who were dressed in sparkling outfits. Should we stay? We decided to stay.

*The bride-to-be is easily identifiable.*

*By the time we left, the sun was out. That’s March–if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.*

The visiting pooch was a big hit with the bachelorettes, who had a great time petting him and receiving doggie kisses in exchange. We also noted that Duck Walk allows outside food, and one party was happily consuming picnic lunches, most likely provided by the limo company. Some bags of pretzels and popcorn are for sale, plus bottles of water.

We paid for two tastings, at $13 for four tastes, and received a little slip of paper to present at the bar. You can also pay directly at the bar, as we observed. However, considering how hard the two—later three—servers were working, I’m glad we didn’t give them that additional task. After seating ourselves at a picnic table as far as possible from the music—which would have been fine at a lower decibel level—we headed to the bar and perused a menu. There we were confronted with twenty-three possibilities on a complicated list which has the categories “white wine varietal,” “white blends and rosé,” “red blends,” “red wines varietal,” and “dessert & sparkling wines.” Whew. One guest prefers her wines on the sweet side, so she consulted with Matt, a superlative server, who kindly marked the sweeter wines—eight in all—on her menu. Also on offer, they make Absenthe, the “traditional distilled spirit with wormwood,” for $5 per taste. At the bar, I noted a couple of taps for Greenport Harbor beers. As I went to get one of my tastes, a couple walked up to the bar and the young man told his companion, “I want a beer,” so I hope they were happy with what they found.

*Not sure what the plastic cups are for. Our tastes, of about an ounce and a half, came in nice glasses.*

We opted to get up and get each taste, since there was no way to carry all four to our table and we didn’t want to stand at the bar. Matt did a great job of remembering me each time I came back, and helping me keep track of what we had had. I’m not sure how he did it, with the crowd around the bar.

I’ll list the wines in the order in which I tasted them, indicating which were in our guests’ tasting with an *.

2020 Reisling* $21.95

Reislings can vary in their level of sweetness, which is why I rarely buy one I haven’t tasted, and this one is definitely on the side of sweeter. Our guest compared the taste to “sucking on a lollipop.” I smell honeysuckle; she tastes peach and butterscotch.

2020 Sauvignon Blanc $21.95

This is a light, dry sauv, with lots of citrus. I say lemon/lime, and my tasting buddy says more on the lime-y side.

Windmill Red * $18.95

Yuk. This smells like dirt—and not the somewhat pleasant petrichor smell—and tastes worse. It has no depth and an unpleasant taste. None of us wants to drink it, so I return the glass to the bar, where Matt very kindly replaces it with a red he hopes we’ll like better, for no extra charge.

2020 Pinot Grigio $21.95

Finally, a wine we like. This has a pleasantly peachy flavor, with lemon at the end.

2019 Pinot Meunier * $26.95

Matt gave us this as a replacement, probably thinking of my friend’s penchant for sweet wines. “Shades of Manischevitz,” is the comment. Yes, I agree, this tastes very like grape juice.

2018 Merlot $21.95

We have a brief discussion of merlot, and how it is so popular on the North Fork. This is a fairly typical merlot, with some nice cherry flavor and good mouthfeel. Nothing special, but drinkable.

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon * $21.95

“Not as good as the merlot,” is our consensus, “but okay.” It is dry, with a hint of tannins, and some dark fruit flavor.

2019 Pinot Noir $38.95

I get a pleasant bramble aroma and taste, with very soft tannins. I can see how someone who is put off by big reds would find this pleasant. Just okay.

2020 Aphrodite * $21.95

Save this for last, counsels Matt. Right. It is, after all, a dessert wine, and comes in a slim, pretty 375 ml. bottle featuring a picture of the goddess of love. But we don’t love it. It’s too sweet even for my sweet-loving guest. It tastes like a sugary fruit salad, though I guess if you paired it with foie gras or walnuts it would be tolerable. The menu suggests pouring this gewürztraminer wine over vanilla ice cream. Yes, it is that sweet.

Reasons to visit: you need a place that welcomes dogs and/or outside food; you are with a group of bachelorettes; the pinot grigio and the merlot; you like sweet wine.

Castello Borghese: On a Winter’s Day February 9, 2020

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Castello Borghese, chardonnay, Merlot Select, North Fork, pinot noir, Riverhead Farmers Market, Rose of Merlot, sauvignon blanc, Winterfest February 11, 2020

https://castellodiborghese.com/

All the leaves are brown…

…and the sky is grey.

It’s been a quiet, damp winter out here on the East End of Long Island. The farm stands have all been closed since Christmas, some restaurants have signs reading “See you in the spring,” and there’s no traffic on the roads. On the other hand, the Riverhead Farmer’s market on Saturday was quite lively and busy, and we were happy to find our favorite pickle man there, as well as fresh eggs and other treats. It’s a nice time of year to visit the wineries—though you do need to check they are open, particularly during the week—since you can often have the undivided attention of your server. On the other hand, if you want a livelier atmosphere, you can check out the Winterfest web page (https://longislandwinterfest.com/) to see where you can find musical performances.

For most of the time, we had the tasting room to ourselves.

We decided to head to Castello Borghese, which we hadn’t been to since August 2018. It is now under the control of Ann Marie and Marco Borghese’s son, after their untimely deaths in 2014. We were very sad when we heard that news, especially since we had had some pleasant chats with Ann Marie in the tasting room. However, Peter, our server, more than made up for that loss, by being very well-informed and passionate about the wines. It didn’t hurt our experience that, charmed by our discussion of our likes and dislikes and by my notebook, he gave us several extra tastes.

Sometimes they have musical performances in this room.

The main tasting room is small, with a bar along one side and a couple of barrels for extra stand-and-taste space, with an adjacent room with small tables and chairs and a large party space. Outside, there are a few picnic tables. It is very much a winery for serious tasters, and Peter described with some amusement how it served as a refuge for those who accidentally went to Vineyard 48 (since closed for being an out of control party place).

The menu offers five different flights: five whites for $20, five reds for $25, three rosés for $15, a “Classic Flight” of a variety of wines for $20, or “Battle of the North Fork,” a comparison of two whites and two reds. As we discussed which option to take, I announced that I often did not like oaked chardonnays, which Peter took as a challenge, and led to our first “extra.” We decided on the Classic Flight. (I’ve marked the extras with an asterisk.)

They give you a rather generous pour.

2018 Chardonnay $20

The flight starts off with the 2018 chardonnay, a fairly classic North Fork chard, with aromas of pear, flowers, and minerals and tastes of green apple, mineral, and lemon. It’s very good, and would be perfect with oysters, like the ones we had here one time in the summer.

We were fascinated by the difference in color between the two chardonnays. The one on the left is oaked.

* 2015 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay $24

“Try this,” urged Peter, “it may change your mind.” Well, not totally, though I liked it more than I thought I would, which was explained when I learned it was aged in neutral oak (which means old oak, rather than new, and so is less oaky). It didn’t have that big buttery taste I have come to dislike. Peter told an amusing story about a woman who ordered a glass of this chard, took it outside to drink with her friends, and came back in to complain that she’d been given the wrong wine. Turned out she was from California, where the chardonnays tend to be big and buttery, but Peter was able to match her with a wine she liked. Anyway, this is a bit woodsy, with an aroma of crushed ferns, rather lean and elegant.

2017 Sauvignon Blanc $24

I’m not counting this as an extra, but it is not the SB on the flight menu, but rather a different one that Peter thought we’d prefer. Meanwhile, this is light and bright, tart and lemony, with an aroma of cucumbers and a touch of funkiness. I could see pairing it with scallops.

Rosé of Merlot $18

Peter offers us brief descriptions of each rosé, and we decide to stick with the one on the flight menu. Ever since the changes at Croteaux, we have been on the lookout for good NoFo rosés. This is pretty good, with a slight aroma of strawberry and the flavor of macerated strawberries. It is nicely dry, and we buy a bottle to drink some time in the near future.

*2018 Pinot Noir $50

“You have to try the Pinot Noir,” says Peter, and we do not disagree. It is a French style pinot, he explains, lean and dry rather than big and jammy like a California pinot. We like it, and if not for the price might have bought a bottle. It has a dark fruit aroma and taste, with slight tannins.

2017 Cabernet Franc Reserve $44

This has a lovely garnet color, but a slight chemical odor which one sometimes gets with reds out here. However, the taste is fine, though at the end it evanesces. We taste dark berries and cherries and tobacco, with some nice acidity. We wonder whether this would improve over time.

*2018 Merlot Select $35

Now we discuss the popularity of merlot and the influence of the movie Sideways, which led to a dip in sales. It is the most popular red grape on the North Fork, and with good reason. This has aromas and tastes of cherry, with a taste that lingers after you sip. 2018 was a very good weather year locally, and so growers expect good things from this vintage. This is also dry, with some tannins. I suggest pairing it with lamb, Peter suggest rib eye, and my husband agrees with us both.

2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $44

Good way to end our tasting, this is another tasty red, with lots of fruit and some minerality. I like it a lot. Like all their wines, it tends to be elegant and lean rather than big and very fruity. It could also stand up to a steak, or even go with roast pork.

Many of their wines have won awards.

Reasons to visit: serious tasting room with serious wines; the chardonnay, the Rosé of Merlot, the pinot noir, the cabernet sauvignon reserve; a generous pour.

They have a very small selection of gift items, plus some t-shirts.

NoFo Wineaux

Wine notes from Long Island's North Fork

Tag Archives: pinot noir