Suhru and Lieb: A Successful Blend

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Meritage, merlot, North Fork, Pinot Blanc, Russell Hearn, Sparkling Pinot Blanc, Suhru and Lieb, wine tasting September 15, 2024

September 13, 2024

*The merger is so new, they don’t have a permanent sign yet.*

It has been a beautiful week, so when our friends the winery aficionados texted us and asked if we would like to do a tasting, we quickly said yes. We were delighted to hear we’d be going to Lieb, since we hadn’t been there since February 2020, and we were curious to see if anything had changed since Russell Hearn et al bought the winery recently. Hearn has been the winemaker for Lieb since 1993, and he also had his own label, Suhru, with an intimate tasting room on Main Road. Now the two labels are combined into one location, on bucolic Oregon Road, right across the street from Oregon Road Organics.

*View of Oregon Road Organics. I’ll have to check it out some day.*

At the moment, the tasting menu has four options. One is just for Lieb Estate wines, another for just Suhru label wines, and two others that mix and match the two. In addition, our very knowledgeable and chatty server, Nate, told us we could sub any particular wine in or out of a list. Our friend is a member of the Lieb wine club, and was entitled to two free tastings, so we deferred to him. He decided to get the Lieb Estate flight, and we decided it would be fun to follow suit, so we could compare opinions. You get five tastes for $30 (if you’re not in the wine club!).

Nate informed us that in the future they will be editing these lists, to remove redundancies, and will probably use the Suhru label for some experimentation.

*I always appreciate it when they serve a bottle of water.*

After deciding on our flights, we turned our attention to the food menu, since it was lunch time. They have a well-curated list of cheeses and “accoutrements,” so we chose the 4 ounce serving of Beemster cheese, a well-aged Gouda from the Netherlands ($16), the smoked trout ($18), and Marcona almonds ($6). The food came out tastefully arranged on trays: a generous serving of cheese, plenty of crackers, a fillet of pink smoked trout, plus a scattering of dried apricots. Nate also brought us a bottle of nice cold water to share.

As we sipped and munched, we admired the beautiful setting, the warm day, and the pleasant patio where we sat and chatted. One topic was whether or not it made sense to grow pinot noir grapes on Long Island, since apparently they don’t do as well as other varietals. That means wine made here from them may be more expensive than it’s worth, which led to a discussion of the issue of price and value. I was thinking about merlot, one of the most prevalent grapes on the North Fork, local wine from which can be priced anywhere from about $11 to $75, or more. What makes one cost more than the other, and is it worth the difference?

*The flight, with plenty of wine for sharing.*

2021 Sparkling Pinot Blanc $58

It always feels very festive to start with a sparkler, so we clinked glasses and sipped. Nice aroma of ripe peaches, lots of fizzy small bubbles, good fruit flavors and not sweet. One friend commented that it was “good for celebratory occasions.” Good beginning!

2022 Pinot Blanc $26

The aroma of this one is similar to the previous wine, but the taste is very light. I think it would be overwhelmed by any strongly flavored food.

*The interior looks similar, but I remember some comfy couches the last time we were there.*

2021 Cabernet Franc $35

We got into a discussion of the various types of oak used for wine barrels—American, French, Hungarian—and I found it interesting to learn that each one has different characteristics, which influences how the wine aged in it tastes. So much to learn about wine-making! In any event, this is a “smooth” easy-to-drink red, with not much tannins. Not much fruit, either.

2020 Merlot $30

Despite what the movie “Sideways” opined, I like merlots, and this one is a fairly typical North Forker, with cherry aroma and flavor, and some light tannins. Very nice.

2020 Meritage $50

“Meritage” means this is a Bordeaux blend, and it is my favorite of the day. Lots of dark plum and mixed berry flavor, some tannins. Yummy.

Extra! We decide, since there are still some munchies, and the day is so fine, to get a bottle of something else, and take home whatever we don’t finish. Nate brings us three little samples and an extra cup, so we can decide. We try the Suhru cabernet franc, the Lieb cab franc, and a syrah (which may be the Suhru shiraz, which is the same grape by a different name). The syrah is just okay—not enough depth for me. But, surprisingly, since our friend and I often have different tastes in wine, we both like the Suhru cab franc, which has a hint of green pepper at the end. We decide that the most important question when choosing a wine is, “Do I like this?” We like it.

Reasons to visit: location off the beaten track, with no limos or buses allowed; beautiful bucolic setting, with a comfy patio and pleasant tasting room; the sparking pinot blanc, the Meritage, and the Suhru cabernet franc; nice selection of cheeses and nibbles.

Suhru Wines: Shelter from the Storm

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with About Food, All for One, Bordeaux blend, Braun's, Bridge Lane, cabernet franc, Cutchogue, Ember, Lieb Cellars, Malbec, menu of snacks, North Fork, NV Brut, petit verdot, pinot grigio, Russell Hearn, Shiraz, Southold, SuHru, teroldego, wine tasting February 21, 2022

February 19, 2022

*There’s a convenient parking lot out back.*

It was the type of day when, as they say, if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes. In the morning, with some guests, we explored the Southold Winter Festival, and it was sunny though cold and windy. We admired the ice sculptures being chiseled out of blocks of ice, stopped in to a couple of our favorite shops, and headed home to warm up and have a snack. Then we ventured out again in the afternoon, as the sunny day turned cloudy, and snowflakes flew past us, to have a tasting at Suhru in Cutchogue. By the time we emerged, the storm was over and it was sunny again. (And then later another snow squall moved through!)

*There wasn’t much to the first Southold Winter Festival, but the ice sculptor was cool.*

We were all glad we had ventured out, because we thoroughly enjoyed our tasting experience at Suhru’s small but well laid out tasting room, which we had to ourselves most of the afternoon. The young man in charge of the room was attentive, engaging, and well-informed about the wines, bringing us water and making sure we had all that we needed.

Suhru is a winery without a vineyard, as the winemaker, Russell Hearn (who is also the winemaker for Leib and Bridge Lane), buys his grapes each year based on whose crop he favors. For example, he makes wine from teroldego grapes, which were planted by Southold Farm + Cellar, who sadly had to move to Texas. At the moment, Russell offers ten wines for tasting, with four different flight options: February Favorites, four wines for $17; Whites and Rosé, four for $14; Red Wines, four for $21, and Choose Your Own, any four for $19. You can also ask for individual tastes, glasses, or a bottle. Our friends went with the red flight, while my husband and I decided to choose our own adventure.

I hadn’t been here since 2018, so I didn’t know they now have a nice lttle menu of snacks, mostly cheese and charcuterie, but also a few other items. Our friends decided to have the Marcona almonds, which turned out to be a miniscule serving for $2, so we added a bag of North Fork potato chips.

Our selections arrived in a cute round tray, with each wine resting on its labeled spot, and we proceeded to taste clockwise. I’ll detail my tasting first, then the two wines they had that differed from mine.

NV Brut $29

I’ve decided to try sparkling wines everywhere they are offered—last week I tasted two at Pindar—and so far, so good. In fact, very good. We like this dry, tasty sparkler, made in the méthode champenoise, so much that our friends add a taste to their flight after we all finish. It has that lovely yeasty aroma of good bubbly, with tiny bubbles, and tastes of pear and maybe a touch of citrus. Mouth-watering. It’s a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, according to our helpful server.

2020 Pinot Grigio $19

Although we are told that this is their “signature wine,” I am not enamored of it. On the other hand, my tasting buddy really likes it. As they say, there are no wrong answers in wine (well, there are, but, as they say in French, “Chacun à son gout.”) I get lemon and green apple tastes, but also something like cardboard. It is light and dry.

2020 Teroldego $30

Teroldego is a Northern Italian grape, not often grown on Long Island, so I ask our server where the grapes came from, which is how I learn the vines were planted by the owners of Southold Farm + Cellar. I was sorry to see that winery close, because they made some lovely wines, were very nice people, and had the most creative wine names I ever saw, but they had some sort of difficulties with local regulations and eventually closed up shop and moved to Texas, where they now have a winery. In any event, I’m glad the grapes are being used, because this is a delicious wine. It has a beautiful aroma of roses, and tastes of red raspberry and other berries. It is a somewhat light red which would go well with charcuterie, and could even be slightly chilled to accompany seared tuna. Last week I bought some fresh tuna steaks at Braun’s and my friend and I seared them with a pan sauce of capers, lemon, and garlic, and this would have gone well with that.

2019 Shiraz $25

When our daughter got married, we had a little wine tasting to decide which wines to serve. We already had the white picked out—Channing Daughter’s Scuttlehole Chardonnay—but we needed a red to go with lamb. This shiraz would definitely have been a contender. It is a bit peppery—apparently some people compare the taste to Dr. Pepper! –which would cut the fat of the lamb nicely. Good red fruit tastes plus something deeper.

2019 Cabernet Franc $30

“This tastes lighter than I expected,” opines our friend, who nonetheless finds the wine, which is in her tasting, not mine, quite pleasant. It has some teroldego mixed in, we are told. Good berry tastes. Our friends got up to peruse the display of bottles, and were charmed to realize that they have actually tasted wine from this winery, as one with the T’Jara label is carried in their local wine shop in Queens. In fact, according to a map on the wall, Suhru ships to many of the states.

2019 Ember $25

Our friends like this so much, that I add a taste of it after I finish my flight. This is Suhru’s Bordeaux blend, a merlot-heavy mixture including cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and malbec. It is so drinkable that I resent sharing it with my tasting buddy. Kidding. Or maybe not. It is complex and balanced, with aromas of fruits, including cherry, and lots of interesting fruit tastes. The name? They had a little competition in the family, and apparently one cousin felt ember was a good name, as it evoked the long-lasting warmth of a fire. I can see that. I buy two bottles to take home.

Reasons to visit: intimate tasting room where you can sometimes interact with the owners; all the wines are good, but especially the Brut, the Teroldego, the Shiraz, and the Ember; they have a nice little menu of snacks, but don’t bother with the Marcona almonds, unless you think $2 for about ten nuts is a good price; there is a backyard patio seating area for warm weather; if you’re planning a picnic, note that they offer several of their wines in cans.

*This is a fascinating shop in the Feather Hill shopping center in Southold.*

*Another favorite shop is About Food, where you never know what you will find.*

Lieb Cellars: Comfy Seating February 11, 2020

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with 8 Hands, Bridge Lane, Estate Cabernet Franc, Estate Chardonnay, Estate Merlot, Estate Petit Verdot, Estate Pinot Blanc, Lieb Cellars, menu of cheeses and meats, no outside food, no pets in the tasting room, North Fork, Pets welcome outside on the patio, Pinot Blanc, Red Blend, Russell Hearn, Sparkling Pinot Blanc, wine tasting February 14, 2020

http://liebcellars.com/

No sitting on the patio today!

Our dear friends had come for a rare visit, and we wanted to do a tasting where we could sit comfortably and chat while we sipped, so we braved the puddles on Oregon Road and headed to Lieb Cellars. Our friends were quite charmed with the room at Lieb, with its comfy couches and living-room-like groupings of seats around coffee tables. We spent a leisurely afternoon tasting and talking, a brief escape from the continuous rain of this February.

The somewhat industrial style of the building makes the warm and welcoming interior a pleasant surprise.

We also enjoyed contemplating the art on the walls, which was for sale. There is a separate room which could be a nice venue for a small party or a large group tasting.

We had the room to ourselves, except for a pair of women who ordered a cheese tray and glasses of wine. Lieb has a very nice list of meats and cheeses one can use to customize a snack board, but we had just had some delicious tomato soup from 8 Hands, and were not hungry. We were, however, happy to sip the water Jessica, the server, brought us in a chilled bottle.

The flight menu offers three options: four whites for $16, four reds for $16, or the Lieb Estate flight of five of their estate wines for $22. Since the first two flights include Bridge Lane wines which we have had at the Bridge Lane tasting room, on the corner of Cox Neck Road, we opted for the Lieb Estate flight, while our friend, who generally prefers reds, ordered the red flight. Our designated driver opted for a glass of non-alcoholic sparkling lemonade, which was served to him in a pretty champagne flute, and which he said was quite good.

Sparkling lemonade!

2017 Sparkling Pinot Blanc $38

Our three whites came all on one round terracotta tray, with clear labels for the order in which to drink them. I wondered how long the sparkler had been open, since it barely bubbled. We had no guidance from the very pleasant server as to the details of each wine, but the website informs me that it is made using the méthode champenoise. We taste and smell green apples, plus something a touch woodsy and funky, with lemon at the end. Pleasant, but not as exciting as a bubbly wine should be.

They give you a fairly generous pour.

2016 Pinot Blanc $24

This is a very, very light white; in fact, my husband describes it as “barely there.” I get lemon and minerals.

2018 Chardonnay $28

Fermented in a combination of steel and neutral oak, this chardonnay has only a touch of butter. It is smooth, with lots of pineapple taste. Not bad at all.

The reds from the estate flight (minus a couple of sips).

2017 Merlot $30

Now we get our three reds, again in a labeled tray, starting with the merlot. This is a fairly typical North Fork merlot, with the expected cherry flavors and aromas, though there is a whiff of chemicals in the smell. It is soft and drinkable. Not at all a challenge.

The red flight.

*Red Blend $20

The Red Blend is part of the red flight, and we sip from our friend’s glass. It is a soft, fruity, very drinkable red, described on the website as a Bordeaux blend. Our friend characterizes it as a “cheese and crackers” wine, and my tasting buddy adds, “You could drink a lot of this before you fell over.” At Bridge Lane you can get this in a box as well as a bottle.

It was nice to have chilled water to cleanse our palates between tastes.

2018 Cabernet Franc $35

We get into a discussion, trying to characterize the aroma of this wine, and settle on something vegetal, though there is some disagreement over whether it is celery and fennel or Brussels sprouts. It is a dry red, with some tannins, dark fruit taste, a touch of nutmeg, and nice acidity. I like it the best of the wines we try.

The array of Lieb Estate wines.

2018 Petit Verdot $45

Sometimes I like petit verdot, and sometimes it just doesn’t knock my socks off. This is the latter. We sniff and get forest floor, mint, and mushrooms. The taste includes blackberries and tobacco, but my husband opines it “lacks gravitas.” Since 2018 was a good year locally, I wonder whether it just needs more time to age. As we discuss our summary impressions, he adds that perhaps the winemaker is too conservative. The winemaker is Russell Hearn, who has his own label of Suhru wines, which we liked better. Perhaps he should bring some of that creativity and risk-taking to these wines, if the owners will let him.

You can just tell from the labels that the Bridge Lane wines are meant to be taken less seriously.

Reasons to visit: comfortable and attractive tasting room off the beaten track; nice menu of cheeses and meats; the Estate Chardonnay, the Red Blend, the Estate Cabernet Franc. Note that they accept reservations, not a bad idea in the busy season, but certainly not needed during the week in the winter!

Suhru: A Warm Welcome November 16, 2019

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Coffee Pot Cellars, Dry Riesling, Jamesport Manor, methode champenoise, North Fork, NVBrut, pinot grigio, Russell Hearn, sauvignon blanc, Shiraz, snacks from Touch of Venice, SuHru, Suhru Ember, Susan Hearn, T'Jara Cabernet Franc, T'Jara Merlot, Touch of Venice November 18, 2019

https://www.suhruwines.com/

Another tasting room housed in a former house, Suhru similarly has a warm family vibe.

Like our last tasting, at Coffee Pot Cellars, Suhru is located in what was formerly a house and has a similarly welcome, family vibe. Susan Hearn is behind the bar, and is quick to explain, as she hospitably offers glasses of water, that the name of the winery is composed of her name, her husband Russell’s name, and the initial of their last name.

Ask Susan and she will explain exactly how they came to add the H to the name.

The last time we were there happened to coincide with their grand opening, and featured a spread of cheese and charcuterie from Touch of Venice, just across the street. No such luck today, but Susan offered that we could order snacks from Touch of Venice and they would be delivered within fifteen minutes. Though the options looked good, we were not hungry, but I do wonder why more of the wineries don’t have similar arrangements, especially the ones that are close to restaurants. A number of them do feature snacks catered by local restaurants, which they keep on the premises.

The “Shared Plates” come from Touch of Venice, and will be delivered in about 15 minutes.

On this sunny but cold November Saturday, there was a steady trickle of guests in the tasting room, including a large group when we arrived, and then a few couples, all of whom seemed very happy to have found Suhru. The room is small but nicely set up, with a bar at which one can stand, comfy couch seating areas, and tables featuring bottles of water and glasses. We decided we’d like to sit, so Susan brought our flights to the table for us, and gave us a thorough run-down of each wine.

There are three flight choices: Fall Favorites, of four wines for $14; White Wine of four whites for $12; and Red Wine, of four reds for $15. One could also choose from the entire panoply of offerings of Suhru and T’Jara wines (The T’Jara label is owned with another couple and honors Russell’s Australian roots.) and put together a tasting, or get a glass or a bottle. We also noticed that if one bought a bottle of the wine of the month—the Shiraz—one of the tastings would be free.

Russell is one of the founders of Premium Wine Group, a facility at the corner of Cox Neck Lane and Sound Avenue, where a number of the smaller wineries make their wines, taking advantage of state-of-the-art facilities, which they would otherwise not be able to afford. For example, Susan pointed out, they use screw caps on all their wines, and without the expensive machine at Premium they would have to use corks.

1. Non-vintage Brut $29
They did not have their sparkling wine ready for the opening last year, as it takes two years to make, so we were happy to have a chance to taste it today. Made from 85% chardonnay and 15% pinot noir, using the méthode champenoise, this is a creditable sparkler, with tiny bubbles and a delicious taste of fruit and mineral. Susan said it smells like roasted pears and toasted brioche, and we agreed—though we probably would have just said toast! Nicely dry and crisp.
2. 2018 Pinot Grigio $18
The aroma is a bit funky and foresty, but pleasant. The wine itself is quite delicate, with what the menu describes as tastes of Granny Smith apple, bosc pear, and lemon peel. Susan laughs as she says this, and admits that most people are happy to just say apple and pear. I think one needs to drink this with food, but something light, like a flounder fillet, rather than something heavy, which would overwhelm the wine.

Susan in motion behind the bar.

3. 2018 Sauvignon Blanc $19
My tasting buddy and I agree we like this better than many North Fork sauvignon blancs, the second most popular local grape, after chardonnay. The menu prose is a bit over-the-top, describing “aromas of passionfruit jumping out of the glass.” We chuckle at the image of aromas jumping, but quite enjoy the wine, which has the lemon one expects but more fruit than many. It would certainly be good with oysters.
4. 2018 Dry Riesling $18
I’m somewhat wary of this, since I’ve had so-called “dry” rieslings that were anything but. However, this is a really good one, with deep enough flavor to stand up to big tastes, like a lobster fra diavolo, and tastes of stone fruit and citrus. It could also make a nice sipper on its own, though my husband notes if you opened it to have with one meal it might not go with the next day’s dinner. I guess you’d just have to finish the bottle. Susan suggests that it is a good Thanksgiving wine, and I tell her that this year we’ll probably be drinking sake with our turkey, since our theme is Japanese food. But we decide to get a bottle anyway. By the way, they source all their other grapes on the North Fork, but the riesling is from the Finger Lakes.

5. 2014 Shiraz $23
Because Russell is Australian, they call this wine shiraz, rather than syrah, which is the same grape. He is particularly happy to make this wine, because the terroir of the North Fork reminds him of Western Australia, with its cool maritime setting. They aim to make all their wines food-friendly, and we can see that. This is a medium-bodied red, not a big fruity syrah-style wine. It smells to me like purple plums, and has some fruit tastes. It is the kind of red, like a Beaujolais, that could go with roast chicken or pizza. She says it would also be good for Thanksgiving. We decide to get a bottle, and not just because one of our tastings will be free.
6. 2017 T’Jara Cabernet Franc $25
This and the next two reds are aged in Hungarian oak, while the Shiraz is aged in American oak. I suppose some day, with enough education, I could tell the difference…Anyway, cab franc has become the second most popular grape on the North Fork, after merlot, and though at first it was primarily used in blends, it is now often featured on its own. The aroma is lovely, with notes of nutmeg and minerals as well as dark fruits. It tastes good, too, like purple plums. Again, not a big red, but one with enough acidity that it could go with something like the yummy short ribs and mashed potatoes I had at Jamesport Manor during Restaurant Week.

One side of the tasting room.

7. 2015 T’Jara Merlot $25
Cherry taste and aroma, as typical of merlots around here, but not very fruity. Minerality. Not bad, just not exciting.
8. 2013 Suhru Ember $20
Why Ember, I ask? Susan explains that they just called this “red,” and their wine club members objected that it was too good a wine to have such a meh name, so they had a contest to name it, and ember won. She feels like it captures the warmth of sitting around a fire and sipping this Bordeaux blend. It is 49% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, 18% cabernet franc, and 4% each petit verdot and malbec, though they may vary the proportions from year to year, depending on the qualities of each grape’s juice. Again, we get a slightly funky, forest floor aroma, plus tobacco. She says it has a long finish, but we don’t find that. I taste blackberries. We think this either needs more or less time to age—not sure which!

This little patio abuts the rather large parking lot, and there is a back entrance to the winery off to the side.

Reasons to visit: pleasant intimate setting, where you can talk to the owner and learn about the winemaking; you can take your tastes to a table, all at once on a carefully labeled tray in nice round-bottomed glasses; snacks from Touch of Venice, a restaurant whose food we like; a cute little outdoor patio area for warm weather; we liked almost all the wines, but especially the shiraz, the sauvignon blanc, and the dry riesling.

Bridge Lane Wine: Cans and Boxes and Kegs, Oh My! September 23, 2018

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Bridge Lane wine, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, dogs allowed, Lieb Cellars Reserve Petit Verdot, merlot, petit verdot, picnics allowed, Red Blend, rose, Russell Hearn, sauvignon blanc, SuHru, white merlot September 25, 2018

Bridge Lane Winery: Cans and Boxes and Kegs, Oh My!

http://bridgelanewine.com/

If you ever want to have a wine kegger, Bridge Lane is the winery for you. Or let’s say you want to take a can of wine to the beach. Yes, they have those. And boxes of wine. Oh yes, bottles, too. Bridge Lane is the less-expensive, more populist line of wines made by Lieb Cellars. Their wine maker, Russell Hearn, also has his own line-up of wines which you can sample at his tasting room in Cutchogue, Suhru Cellars. (https://www.suhruwines.com/ ) He must be a busy man!

Yes, wine in a can.

Also bottles and boxes.

Last September we went with friends to Lieb Cellars’ tasting room on Oregon Road, and tasted both the Lieb label wines and the Bridge Lane wines. We much preferred the Lieb wines. In June we went to the newly opened Suhru Cellars and liked their wines even better. However, there is nothing wrong with the Bridge Lane wines, if you want simple, light inexpensive wines. All of Bridge Lane’s wines cost $20 per bottle. (A keg holds 130 glasses for $240 and each can provides two glasses for $9.)

Fittingly, not only do all the wines cost the same, the taste profile is remarkably similar. In fact, my husband observed that he would be hard pressed to tell one white from another. They are all citrusy and minerally and light.

The differences among the wines of the three venues extend to the tasting rooms, as well. Bridge Lane’s is a simple square, with a bar along one wall and banquettes along two others, with brightly painted picnic tables outside. Lieb Cellars’ tasting room is more elegant, with table service and a deck overlooking rural Oregon Road. Suhru’s newly opened “tasting house” is in what had been a house, and is homey and beachy. Bridge Lane allows picnics and dogs, while the other two do not (except at Lieb on the outside patio). Suhru offers snacks from Touch of Venice restaurant across the street, and Lieb has an extensive menu of snacks, while Bridge Lane offers only a few snacks.

We arrived at Bridge Lane on a September Sunday afternoon, when many of the wineries were crowded and traffic clogged the approach to Harbes Orchard. At Bridge Lane we encountered a large party of women—not sure if it was a group of friends or a bachelorette celebration—and one other couple who decided to brave the September chill to take their tastes outside. After the large group left, it was quite quiet.

Like many wineries, Bridge Lane has limited winter hours.

A tasting consists of five tastes for $15. You can also taste a few of the Lieb Reserve wines at $4 per taste, or opt for a glass or bottle. They serve you three and then two of your tastes at once, on a clearly labeled round tray in nice rounded-bottom glasses. There’s a self-serve container of water at one end of the bar.

White Merlot

We get a very faint citrus aroma from this white wine made from red merlot grapes. The taste is of grapefruit and minerals, and is pleasant and light. It would be fine with some Peconic Bay scallops.

Wine on tap.

Chardonnay

A steel-fermented chard, this actually smells a bit metallic. I taste pineapple, though the tasting notes say stone fruit and green apple. Maybe a little green apple…but if by stone fruit they mean peaches and apricots, I don’t get it. My tasting buddy asserts that “ten seconds in, it gets sweet.”

Sauvignon Blanc

Another light, tart, citrusy, easy-to-drink white, this one would go well with oysters. Maybe barbequed oysters?

Rosé

As one would expect, the rosé has an aroma of strawberry, but sweeter, more like strawberry jam. There’s also a touch of smokiness. Again, this is light, with the citrus this time reminiscent of pink grapefruit. I could see having it with an herbed goat cheese from Catapano.

Red Blend

This is their Bordeaux blend, of 65% merlot, 25% cabernet franc, 6% cabernet sauvignon, and 4% petit verdot, aged six months in Hungarian oak. It smells like a combination of cherries, smoke, and wood. When we sip, we decide we can taste the wood as well, plus a fair amount of tannins which make us wonder if this would be better after a couple of years. We also taste black cherry. My husband describes it as “sour.” Not a great red, but easy to drink, it could go with lamb chops.

Lieb Cellars Reserve 2015 Petit Verdot $35

I want to end with something better, so we order a taste of the Lieb Petit Verdot. As the server opens the bottle, I notice that it has a screw cap. The Bridge Lane wines had been on tap, so I ask her if all the wines have screw tops. Yes, they do. The Petit Verdot is aged ten months in Hungarian oak, and has an aroma of blackberries and dark fruit. It tastes of black cherry with a greater depth of flavor than the Red Blend. There’s a pleasant softness to it, and enough tannins that I think it could be aged. My husband and I simultaneously decide it would go well with barbequed ribs.

The outdoor picnic area is somewhat screened from the traffic on Sound Avenue. The multicolored stripes are part of the whole light-hearted ethos of the spot.

Reasons to visit: You want somewhere to take your picnic lunch where you can sit outside and drink some inexpensive wines; you are having a big party and need a keg of wine, or maybe a couple of boxes; you want to take a four-pack of cans of wine on your boat; the chardonnay, or any of the wines if you want something light and uncomplicated.

Bridge Lane shares its location with Premium wine Group, a wine-making facility shared by many of the smaller wineries which lack their own wine-making equipment.

As I watched crushed grapes being loaded here, I solved a mystery. All along Cox Neck Road I had seen a line of grapes by the side of the road. Where did they come from? Aha, I realized, they have fallen off those open carts which bring the grapes to Premium Wine Group!

Suhru Tasting House: New(ish) Kid on the Block June 10, 2018

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Australia, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Ember, gewurztraminer, Malbec, merlot, New Zealand, North Fork, petit verdot, pinot grigio, riesling, rose, Russell Hearn, sauvignon blanc, Shiraz, SuHru, Susan Hearn, T'Jara, Touch of Venice, wine tasting June 13, 2018

https://www.suhruwines.com/

We arrived in time for the grand opening!

Although Suhru wines have been around for a while (We first tasted them at The Winemaker’s Studio.), they didn’t have their own tasting room—until now. They have opened up their own place in the small building in Cutchogue which briefly housed Waters Crest’s tasting room. As soon as we walked in, we noticed that they had done a very nice job of renovating the space, expanding the room and decorating it in a breezy, beachy style. Our server informed us that they soon hope to be able to display work by local artists. They also have a small outdoor area in the back, which faces their parking lot.

The back yard

We happened to enter during the Grand Opening, so a table in the rear of the room held cheese and bread and sausages from Touch of Venice, which we were urged to sample. In the future, they hope to have a menu of snacks from that restaurant, which is right across the street. Good idea!

Suhru—the name is an amalgam of Susan, Russell, and Hearn, for Susan the owner, Russell the winemaker, and Hearn, their last name—joins the club of wineries which are the personal products of winemakers who work for large wineries, like Coffee Pot Cellars and Anthony Nappa. They also have another label, T’Jara, which they own with another couple. That name is a nod to where they are from, which is Australia, and literally means “place where I’m from” in the aboriginal language. By the way, they are careful to emphasize the “h” in the winery’s name, since Suru is the name of a Japanese saki company! We were given all this information by our cheery and friendly server—who also happens to be Susan and Russell’s daughter. She was helped at the bar by her mother, so this is quite a family affair.

In future iterations of the label, the H (which now looks like a football goalpost) will be in white, to emphasize that it is part of the name.

The menu offers several options: a tasting of three Suhru wines for $9, a tasting of two whites and a rosé from both labels for $8, or a red wine tasting of three, again combining both labels, for $11. But, we said, we want to try all eight varieties on offer (two wines are not available for tasting, only by the bottle). No problem, Ms. Hearn replied, and carefully set us up with two tastings of three each, plus one extra of each, which would cost less than buying eight individual tastes. Wines are also available by the glass. She also delineated the order in which to taste the wines and made useful comments on each.

We liked the calm, beachy décor. The other end of the tasting room has some comfortable couches.

2016 Pinot Grigio $24

“This is the wine which started it all,” said Ms. Hearn. I can see why. It is a light, bright, dry white with tastes of citrus and green apple and a pleasantly flowery aroma. I felt it needed food, and a bite of bread and cheese showed me that I was right. It would also be good with charcuterie.

We were so deep in conversation, I forgot to take a picture until we had drunk everything except the rose. The reds are served the same way.

2017 Sauvignon Blanc $26

Her parents met while hiking in New Zealand, so this is a nod to the New Zealand style of sauvignon blanc, noted Ms. Hearn, though it is not exactly like them. After all, the climate and terroir here are different. The aroma has a whiff of chemicals, but the wine itself is quite nice, dry, with some citrus, though my husband finds it a bit too fruity for him. Again, it benefits by being tasted along with a bite of bread and cheese.

2014 Dry Riesling $25

The grapes for the riesling come from the Finger Lakes region, she tells us, and we get into a discussion of the relative merits of grapes from the two areas. Susan Hearn joins in, and I tell them how last fall we were in Beacon and went to a winery which used some grapes from Long Island! This riesling also includes some gewürztraminer. It is very dry, not at all sweet, and tastes of ripe pear and minerals. Cat pee aroma, I note!

2017 T’Jara Rosé $25

A combination of 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc, this is a very light, almost watery rosé, not fruity or at all sweet. Though it is a refreshing summer drink, it would not replace Croteaux for us. (By the way, the Croteaux tasting room is closed, due to a problem with the town, though you can still buy their wines online or at local stores.)

2012 T’Jara Cabernet Franc $33

Now we move on to the reds, and a new tray of nice, round-bottomed glasses. The labels for T’Jara wines, by the way, feature designs inspired by aboriginal art. The vineyard for the reds is in Mattituck, where Bordeaux grapes are grown. This is a very drinkable red, with soft tannins and dark fruit tastes, dry, with very little aroma.

2012 Ember $27

This is their Bordeaux blend, predominantly merlot plus cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petit verdot. I really like this, and we buy a bottle. Again, very drinkable, food friendly as Ms. Hearn says, with red current aroma and some minerality as well as dark fruits. It would be good with a beef stew.

2012 Shiraz $30

Again, this name is a nod to their Australian roots, since the grape is called shiraz in Australia and syrah elsewhere, so in America winemakers can choose either. She tells us this is a “cool climate inspired” wine. It’s good, but fairly light for a shiraz. I wouldn’t pair it with a steak, but maybe with veal or pasta. Again, it has soft tannins and lots of fruit.

The array of reds. Note the aboriginal art-inspired designs on the T’Jara labels.

2015 T’Jara Merlot $33

Unlike most North Fork merlots, this one has no cherry taste. It is more like a cabernet franc, I would say. I think it might improve with age, but right now it is quite young and not particularly distinguished.

Lucky us, the grand opening included free snacks!

Reasons to visit: pretty little tasting room that so far is not crowded (We had started out to go to Shinn, but couldn’t even get into the parking lot!); the pinot grigio, the Ember, the sauvignon blanc, the cabernet franc; the chance to chat with the owners and get deeply into the wines; they serve your tastes on a tray, so if you are with a group you can take it to a table and sit and sip; snacks (at some point soon) from Touch of Venice.

The Winemaker Studio: Experimental Success April 15, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting, Winterfest and tagged with Anomaly, Anthony Nappa, Bordo Antico, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Dry Riesling, Lieb, Macari, Malbec, merlot, Nemesis Pinot Noir, New York Riesling, Peconic Bay, Raphael, Russell Hearn, sauvignon blanc, Shiraz, SuHru, The Winemaker Studio, Tredici, White Pinot Noir April 23, 2017

http://winemaker-studio.com/index.html

To celebrate April 15 NOT being tax day, we decided to return to The Winemaker Studio, where winemakers who work for some of the big wineries experiment with their own labels. It does fascinate me that people whose job is winemaking feel the need to express more of their ideas about wine with their own experiments—but when the results are as good as this, why not? On this day, the Studio was featuring the wines of Anthony Nappa, who owns the place and is also the winemaker for Raphael, and Russell Hearn, who is the winemaker for Lieb. Hearn actually has two different labels available: Suhru for one line, and T’Jara for wines whose grapes all come from one vineyard.

We stood at the bar and enjoyed chatting with our server, who seemed to know everything about all the wines. On that day, the menus offered any five of Nappa’s ten wines for $15, and all five of Hearn’s wines, also for $15. We decided to do one of each, alternating as we went, with some guidance from our server as to sequence and choices from Nappa’s list. We could also have ordered cheese or other snacks, which come from the little food store attached to the tasting room. Before we started, the server gave us glasses of chilled water, which he regularly replenished.

The room is simple. The tables are sometimes inside and sometimes outside.

One other couple entered, and we enjoyed chatting with them about where they had been that day and their love of Key West. Then a large group came in, and though they don’t usually permit groups without a reservation, since it was so quiet the server agreed to take care of them, and seated them in the food store room. We were concerned we’d lose our source of information, but he competently took care of everyone!

The sign seems clear enough…

2016 Suhru Sauvignon Blanc $20

We decided it was best to start with what was likely the lightest of the wines, and we were right. This is a really nice light sauvignon blanc, with some aromas of cat pee and asparagus. It’s a bit fruity for a sauvignon blanc, and also has lots of minerality and some saltiness. Very refreshing. Good summer sipper, or to have with clams or oysters.

2016 Nappa White Pinot Noir $19

White pinot noir? Isn’t that the wine that used to be called Anomaly? Well, yes. Apparently there was some sort of allegation of copyright infringement from a winery in Napa Valley, so Anthony Nappa had to rename his wine. The first time we had this we really liked it, then not so much the next time, but this time it was back into the plus file. The aroma combines strawberry—like a rosé, which this basically resembles—with a touch of funkiness that adds some interest. The wine is somewhat dry, with some strawberry taste as well. It would pair well with a stinky cheese, like an aged blue.

2014 Suhru Dry Riesling $18

Not sure why, but my tasting buddy insisted the smell reminded him of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. It is a strong aroma, with a touch of mineral or metal. If you like a dry riesling, this is for you. The server noted that it had .7% residual sugar, quite a contrast to the Nappa riesling we were going to taste next. I always enjoy these side by side tastings, where you try the same grapes made in different ways. Like the Suhru sauvignon blanc, this also has a bit of a salty tang, with some gooseberry taste.

2016 Nappa New York Riesling $18

So different! Made with grapes from upstate’s Sheldrake vineyard, this riesling has 1.9% residual sugar. Although it is much sweeter, it is well balanced, and would be fine with something really spicy, like Thai food. “Almost candy,” says my husband, but I get tropical fruit and spices like nutmeg, and a complex aroma that is rather alluring.

2012 Suhru Shiraz $25

Although the scent promises lots of dark fruit, the wine itself is rather light for a shiraz. I could see this with roast chicken, not steak. Nice tannins, so maybe it will age well.

2016 Nappa Bordo Antico $22

If you care about such things, you might like to know that this wine is certified organic. It is made from cabernet franc grapes, steel fermented. It smells like forest floor, with a bit of a mushroomy funk. The taste is good, fruity, direct and simple. I might pair it with duck breasts.

2012 T’Jara Cabernet Franc $30

Here we go again—same grape, different preparation—though this is a bit of a blend, 87% cabernet franc with 10% merlot and 3% cabernet sauvignon. This is oak fermented, and has lots of fruit tastes like dark plums, and a long finish. Delicious. It would complement lamb chops.

2014 Nappa Nemesis Pinot Noir $35

Why “Nemesis”? We learn that pinot noir is notoriously hard to work with, so the danger is that it could prove to be the winemaker’s nemesis. Not in this case, though it is not our favorite of the day. Made with grapes from Macari and Peconic Bay, this is a light, dry, slightly fruity red.

2013 T’Jara Merlot $28

A blend of 92% merlot, 4% cabernet sauvignon, 2% cabernet franc, and 2% malbec, the wine is aged 20 months in Hungarian oak and tastes to us more or less like a typical North Fork merlot, with lots of cherry flavor. Very nice.

Both the design on the label and the name of the label come from Australian Aborigines. Hearn is from Australia.

2013 Nappa Tredici $35

Tredici? As in three grapes: 67% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, and 18% cabernet sauvignon? Nope, as in 2013—named for the year. And why not, since it was a very good year. We smell cherries, and the taste is very much of the merlot, but with more interesting flavors than the Hearn blend. It has lots of tannins, and if we had room in the wine cellar (we really must drink more of our wine!) we might have bought a bottle to age for a few years.

There are wines from a variety of winemakers available for purchase.

Reasons to visit: a chance to taste wines you won’t find elsewhere; an intimate setting with knowledgeable servers (not just this time, but every time we’ve come); the Nappa White Pinot Noir (formerly Anomaly) and Tredici; the Suhru Sauvignon Blanc and T’Jara 2012 Cabernet Franc; lots of availability of magnums, if you happen to want to buy one!

Lots of magnums!

The Studio is on Peconic Street, where you will also find a nice little food store and a gift shop.

Premium Wine Group A. K.A. Bridge Lane A.K.A. Lieb Cellars August 5, 2015

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Blanc de Blanc, Bridge Lane, chardonnay, Croteaux, Lieb Cellars, North Fork, Oregon Road, Pinot Blanc, Premium Wine Group, Red Blend, Reserve Cabernet Franc, Reserve Merlot, rose, Rumor Mill Cider, Russell Hearn, SuHru, White Blend, white merlot, wine tasting August 10, 2015

http://premiumwinegroup.com/

http://liebcellars.com/

http://bridgelanewine.com/

No, this winery has not entered the witness protection program or committed a crime; rather they have diversified their offerings to include both the lower priced options from Bridge Lane and their slightly higher end wines bearing the Lieb name. Premium Wine Group—which appears prominently on the sign outside the tasting room—designates the facility attached to it where various wine makers on the North Fork come to use the production facilities, rather than make the rather hefty investment in their own.

At the far end of the building you can see the entrance to the wine-making facility.

What’s unique about the Bridge Lane wines is that they are offered for sale by the bottle, the box, or the keg, giving a whole new dimension to the term “kegger.” A keg holds the equivalent of 26 bottles and, according to our server, is particularly popular for weddings and other large parties. Just to give you a sense of relative costs, a bottle of Bridge Lane Chardonnay is $15, while a box is $40 and a keg is $240. In the tasting room the Bridge Lane wines are poured from the tap, like beer, rather than the bottle. You might think that this all indicates a lesser quality of wine, but we would be perfectly happy to drink most of them. Busy Russell Hearn, who also has his own small label SuHru, is the winemaker for all the wines.

One view of the tasting room

The tasting room is small, set up like a lounge (or, as a certain four year old—non-drinking—visitor opined, “like a living room” ) with a bar on one side and banquettes around the walls. We were there late on a week day, and had the space mostly to ourselves. There are also picnic tables and comfortable Adirondack-style chairs outside. The menu offers five Bridge Lane wines for $12 or five “featured” wines (Lieb label) for $12. We opted for one tasting of each, so we could sample all of them. Packages of crisp skinny bread sticks are on the bar for palate cleansing, and the four-year-old quite approved of them.

I list the tastes here in the order we had them, with the Featured selections second, marked with an *.

2013 Bridge Lane White Merlot $16

White merlots have become more popular on the North Fork lately, and this one reminds us a bit of Anthony Nappa’s Anomaly, though it is lighter. It is tart and citrusy, a good summer quaff.

*NV Rumor Mill Hard Cider $9

Yes, that’s $9 per bottle! And you could serve this to wine lovers who would be quite happy to drink it. It is made, as our server informed us, “from ten different varieties of apples,” all grown on the North Fork. It does not taste particularly like a cider, and is tart, crisp and light, with a slight trace of bubbles.

2013 Bridge Lane Chardonnay $15

A steel-fermented chard, this has the fairly typical veggie aroma, and tastes citrusy and grassy and tart.

They can’t call it champagne…

*2010 Lieb Cellars Blanc de Blanc $30

Made from pinot blanc grapes in the Méthode Champenoise, this is their entry in the sparkling wine category. I smell a bit of yeasty bread, taste some green olive taste. It is very dry, and pretty good, though I’d probably get a Cava or Prosecco rather than spend $30 for this level of sparkle.

2013 Bridge Lane White Blend $16

A mixture of 29% chardonnay, 26% pinot blanc, 16% riesling, 14% viognier, 9% sauvignon blanc, and 4% gewürztraminer—everything except the kitchen sink, observes my husband—this is a quite pleasant drink, with a good balance of sweet and tart. When I came here with a group, this one was very popular. The aroma has a bit of the forest floor funk, but the taste is not at all funky.

*2014 Lieb Pinot Blanc $22

Our server proudly informs us that Lieb has the largest planting of pinot blanc in the United States, which they started in 1983. In any event, this is a delicious wine, with some baked pear aromas and flowery, pineapple-y tastes.

The rose sure looks pretty.

2013 Bridge Lane Rosé $18

They make their rosé from a blend of cabernet franc and merlot, and we smell the typical strawberry aroma, taste some fruit. Not complex, no finish, still no competition for Croteaux, but certainly drinkable.

*2013 Reserve Merlot $24

This is also very drinkable, a dry soft, very cherry merlot. It spends 10 months in Hungarian oak, which, our server notes, is milder than French oak. No tannins.

The pour for the Bridge Lane wines is fairly generous.

2013 Bridge Lane Red Blend $16

For $16, this is quite a good everyday red, which I could see enjoying with spaghetti and meatballs any night of the week. It is a Bordeaux-style blend of 46% merlot, 37% cabernet sauvignon, 12% petit verdot, and 5% malbec, with a touch of earth and forest floor as well as dark fruit aromas and good fruit tastes, not sweet. We notice that if one buys three bottles of any wine one tasting is free, and decide three bottles of the Red Blend would be a worthwhile investment. Unfortunately, the red is served a bit too cold, perhaps a result of the tap system.

*2013 Lieb Reserve Cabernet Franc $40

By the way, calling a wine “reserve” means whatever the winery wants it to mean, but usually means they think this is a particularly good wine. They would be correct with this one, which we would buy for our cellar if we had room at the moment. Lots of dark fruit, interesting tannins, it’s a delicious dry red that could stand up to steak.

Reasons to visit: you can buy a keg of wine, how cool is that?; wine on tap; a pleasant calm tasting room (or go to their Oregon Road room if you want to get further off the beaten track); almost all the wines, but for fun the Rumor Mill Cider; more seriously the Reserve Cabernet Franc; for an inexpensive everyday red, the Red Blend or white, the White Blend.

Here you can see the taps from which they dispense the Bridge Lane wines.

The Winemaker Studio: Studying Wine May 16, 2015

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Anomaly, Anthony Nappa, Blackbird, Bordo, Coffee Pot Cellars, Dodici, Frizzante, Influence Wines, Leo Family, North Fork, One Woman, paninis, Race Wines, Russell Hearn, SuHru Pinot Grigio, SuHru Sauvignon Blanc, T'Jara Cabernet Franc, T'Jara Merlot, T'Jara Reserve Merlot, The Winemaker Studio, wine tasting May 20, 2015

http://www.anthonynappawines.com/tws_home.html

Proving once again that regular visits to all wineries are essential, we noted several changes at Anthony Nappa’s Winemaker Studio since our last visit there in July. For example, the emphasis has gone from looking at the wines of many winemakers to a focus on Nappa’s own wines, although others are available, including for purchase. Today, the choice is between a set menu of five wines for $10 by Russell Hearn, under his SuHru and T’Jara labels, or any of fourteen wines by Nappa at $2 per taste. After some serious discussion, we decide to share two tastings, one of the Hearn wines and the other of five wines from Nappa’s list. We also could have had a beer from Greenport Brewing Company or hard cider or espresso.

Note the Greenport Harbor Brewing Company tap.

The building is over 100 years old, which contributes to the cozy feeling of the place, and is divided into two halves, with one half the tasting room with a bar and some little tables and chairs, and the other half a store called Provisions, which offers both a selection of groceries and a menu of sandwiches and snacks. While we were there we saw one party enjoying some paninis—which smelled delicious—with their wine. We could also have bought wines by the bottle from Leo Family, Race Wines, Coffee Pot Cellars (which now has their own place), and Influence Wines.

You can see Provisions through the window.

Some of the snack choices

Our server, by the way, was quite pleasant and very knowledgeable, and we overheard her giving a pair of North Fork novices some good advice as to which wineries they would and would not like. Based on their preferences, we suggested their next stop should be One Woman Winery. I’ll list the wines as we drank them, with the Anthony Nappa wines second.

One view of the room

SuHru Pinot Grigio $17

Nice way to start a tasting. This is a bright, citrusy white with a slightly funky, mineral aroma. Though somewhat too dry to be a sipper, it would go great with oysters.

2013 Frizzante $20

As you may have guessed from the name, this is a sparkling wine, made in the Méthode Champenoise from pinot noir, riesling, and gewürztraminer. Because it is unfiltered, it is somewhat cloudy. Given the grapes it is made from, I thought it might be sweet, but, though it has a touch of sweetness, it is dry, with aromas of pear and orange flower. Our server compares it to a Prosecco, and says she likes it with sushi. I think it would be great with some charcuterie! And given the price, one could drink this without waiting for an occasion.

2013 SuHru Sauvignon Blanc $19

As I’m sniffing and thinking, hmmm…toast, lemon peel, minerals, my husband says, “This is very like a Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, and so anyone who liked that would like this.” I’ll have to do some research to verify that, but meanwhile I taste lemon and gooseberries.

2013 Anomaly $19

The Anomaly is Nappa’s signature wine, a white made from red pinot noir grapes, and it is quite nice, though we liked it better the first time we had it. The aroma is a tad funky, with some minerality and a smell like raw yeast dough. It is fairly crisp, and we taste sour cherries.

2010 T’Jara Cabernet Franc $30

New glasses for the reds. Aged in oak, this has aromas of asparagus, coffee beans, and cherry juice, with tastes of spice and dark fruit. It’s quite good, and we like the finish, and think it would pair well with veal Milanese. Since Russell Hearn used to be the winemaker for Pellegrini, and we like their reds, it’s logical that we would like the reds he makes under his own label.

2014 Bordo $20

I kind of expected this to be a Bordeaux, based on the name, but it is made from steel-fermented cabernet franc. Our server describes it as a “rustic Italian” wine, and says, among other flavors, that it has tastes of calamata olives. We agree, and also think we taste dark plums and raisins, plus maybe some black cherry. Although there’s lots of fruit tastes, it is relatively simple, in that there aren’t layers of flavor. In any event, it would go great with pizza or pasta!

We really liked the clean, simple, modern style of Nappa’s labels.

2010 T’Jara Merlot $25

Just as my husband noted that the barnyard odors we used to sense frequently in North Fork wines are mostly gone, and I reminded him that it was merlots that featured it, we sniff this and find just a touch of barnyard. Otherwise, lots of berry aromas and sour plum tastes in this somewhat tannic red. Not at all soft, it would go well with pasta with a rich meat sauce.

2012 “dodici” $35

Named for the vintage year, this is a blend of 67% merlot, 28% cabernet franc, and 5% cabernet sauvignon, aged in French oak for 18 months. A Right Bank Bordeaux, says my drinking pal. Aroma: Captain Black tobacco, chocolate, red fruits. Taste: cherry, dry yet soft, with some tannins. Compared with how it tasted a year ago, we decide it has aged well so far, though it could be overwhelmed by a big steak dinner.

I love doing side by side comparisons.

2007 T’Jara Reserve Merlot $35

Also aged in French oak, this is, despite the name, a bit of a blend: 89% merlot, 5% cabernet franc, 2% malbec, 2% cabernet sauvignon. “Unripe peach pit,” opines my pal, as he sniffs. Really? Okay, maybe. Also currants, perhaps. We taste and agree on dried fruits and unsweetened cocoa. In a head to head with dodici, we choose the T’Jara.

2012 Blackbird $40

Why Blackbird? Because merlot is the French word for blackbird, says the server. Well, close, it is “merle,” and this is Nappa’s Reserve Merlot. Red cherry taste, quite tannic, not much aroma: we think it would be better with food, but are not thrilled with this wine. Not bad, mind you, but not worth the price.

One corner of the room. The furniture is cute, but could be more comfy.

Reasons to visit: the chance to taste and buy wines from more than one winemaker; some offbeat choices like the Frizzante and the Anomaly; the lovely food from Provisions; a relaxed atmosphere; the Suhru Sauvignon Blanc, the Bordo, the T’Jara Reserve Merlot, the Dodici; freshly made espresso or cappuccino for those who have had enough wine.

NoFo Wineaux

Wine notes from Long Island's North Fork

Tag Archives: Russell Hearn