The Winemaker Studio: Experimental Success April 15, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting, Winterfest and tagged with Anomaly, Anthony Nappa, Bordo Antico, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Dry Riesling, Lieb, Macari, Malbec, merlot, Nemesis Pinot Noir, New York Riesling, Peconic Bay, Raphael, Russell Hearn, sauvignon blanc, Shiraz, SuHru, The Winemaker Studio, Tredici, White Pinot Noir April 23, 2017

http://winemaker-studio.com/index.html

To celebrate April 15 NOT being tax day, we decided to return to The Winemaker Studio, where winemakers who work for some of the big wineries experiment with their own labels. It does fascinate me that people whose job is winemaking feel the need to express more of their ideas about wine with their own experiments—but when the results are as good as this, why not? On this day, the Studio was featuring the wines of Anthony Nappa, who owns the place and is also the winemaker for Raphael, and Russell Hearn, who is the winemaker for Lieb. Hearn actually has two different labels available: Suhru for one line, and T’Jara for wines whose grapes all come from one vineyard.

We stood at the bar and enjoyed chatting with our server, who seemed to know everything about all the wines. On that day, the menus offered any five of Nappa’s ten wines for $15, and all five of Hearn’s wines, also for $15. We decided to do one of each, alternating as we went, with some guidance from our server as to sequence and choices from Nappa’s list. We could also have ordered cheese or other snacks, which come from the little food store attached to the tasting room. Before we started, the server gave us glasses of chilled water, which he regularly replenished.

The room is simple. The tables are sometimes inside and sometimes outside.

One other couple entered, and we enjoyed chatting with them about where they had been that day and their love of Key West. Then a large group came in, and though they don’t usually permit groups without a reservation, since it was so quiet the server agreed to take care of them, and seated them in the food store room. We were concerned we’d lose our source of information, but he competently took care of everyone!

The sign seems clear enough…

2016 Suhru Sauvignon Blanc $20

We decided it was best to start with what was likely the lightest of the wines, and we were right. This is a really nice light sauvignon blanc, with some aromas of cat pee and asparagus. It’s a bit fruity for a sauvignon blanc, and also has lots of minerality and some saltiness. Very refreshing. Good summer sipper, or to have with clams or oysters.

2016 Nappa White Pinot Noir $19

White pinot noir? Isn’t that the wine that used to be called Anomaly? Well, yes. Apparently there was some sort of allegation of copyright infringement from a winery in Napa Valley, so Anthony Nappa had to rename his wine. The first time we had this we really liked it, then not so much the next time, but this time it was back into the plus file. The aroma combines strawberry—like a rosé, which this basically resembles—with a touch of funkiness that adds some interest. The wine is somewhat dry, with some strawberry taste as well. It would pair well with a stinky cheese, like an aged blue.

2014 Suhru Dry Riesling $18

Not sure why, but my tasting buddy insisted the smell reminded him of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. It is a strong aroma, with a touch of mineral or metal. If you like a dry riesling, this is for you. The server noted that it had .7% residual sugar, quite a contrast to the Nappa riesling we were going to taste next. I always enjoy these side by side tastings, where you try the same grapes made in different ways. Like the Suhru sauvignon blanc, this also has a bit of a salty tang, with some gooseberry taste.

2016 Nappa New York Riesling $18

So different! Made with grapes from upstate’s Sheldrake vineyard, this riesling has 1.9% residual sugar. Although it is much sweeter, it is well balanced, and would be fine with something really spicy, like Thai food. “Almost candy,” says my husband, but I get tropical fruit and spices like nutmeg, and a complex aroma that is rather alluring.

2012 Suhru Shiraz $25

Although the scent promises lots of dark fruit, the wine itself is rather light for a shiraz. I could see this with roast chicken, not steak. Nice tannins, so maybe it will age well.

2016 Nappa Bordo Antico $22

If you care about such things, you might like to know that this wine is certified organic. It is made from cabernet franc grapes, steel fermented. It smells like forest floor, with a bit of a mushroomy funk. The taste is good, fruity, direct and simple. I might pair it with duck breasts.

2012 T’Jara Cabernet Franc $30

Here we go again—same grape, different preparation—though this is a bit of a blend, 87% cabernet franc with 10% merlot and 3% cabernet sauvignon. This is oak fermented, and has lots of fruit tastes like dark plums, and a long finish. Delicious. It would complement lamb chops.

2014 Nappa Nemesis Pinot Noir $35

Why “Nemesis”? We learn that pinot noir is notoriously hard to work with, so the danger is that it could prove to be the winemaker’s nemesis. Not in this case, though it is not our favorite of the day. Made with grapes from Macari and Peconic Bay, this is a light, dry, slightly fruity red.

2013 T’Jara Merlot $28

A blend of 92% merlot, 4% cabernet sauvignon, 2% cabernet franc, and 2% malbec, the wine is aged 20 months in Hungarian oak and tastes to us more or less like a typical North Fork merlot, with lots of cherry flavor. Very nice.

Both the design on the label and the name of the label come from Australian Aborigines. Hearn is from Australia.

2013 Nappa Tredici $35

Tredici? As in three grapes: 67% merlot, 15% cabernet franc, and 18% cabernet sauvignon? Nope, as in 2013—named for the year. And why not, since it was a very good year. We smell cherries, and the taste is very much of the merlot, but with more interesting flavors than the Hearn blend. It has lots of tannins, and if we had room in the wine cellar (we really must drink more of our wine!) we might have bought a bottle to age for a few years.

There are wines from a variety of winemakers available for purchase.

Reasons to visit: a chance to taste wines you won’t find elsewhere; an intimate setting with knowledgeable servers (not just this time, but every time we’ve come); the Nappa White Pinot Noir (formerly Anomaly) and Tredici; the Suhru Sauvignon Blanc and T’Jara 2012 Cabernet Franc; lots of availability of magnums, if you happen to want to buy one!

Lots of magnums!

The Studio is on Peconic Street, where you will also find a nice little food store and a gift shop.

Sannino Bella Vita: Safe Choices April 8, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with cabernet sauvignon, Chilly Day Chardonnay, Francesco, North Fork, petit verdot, Sannino Bella Vita, sauvignon blanc, Spotlight Petit Verdot, syrah, viognier, wine tasting April 11, 2017

http://www.sanninovineyard.com/

We didn’t have any wines we disliked here, nor did we have any that excited us. I see Sannino Bella Vita’s wines as safe choices. My husband’s word was “tame.” I will say that everyone around us certainly seemed to be enjoying their tastings, and the Sanninos do a great job of engaging with visitors and helping them choose the best options for their personal preferences from the list of twelve wines. A standard tasting is six tastes for $18, all presented to you on a tray, which you label with the numbers of your wines from the menu. Most of the wines are quite reasonably priced. They also offer some snacks, like a cheese tray.

Snack menu

They give an interesting piece of advice to their guests as to how to do a tasting, suggesting that you leave a tiny bit in each glass so you can go back and do comparisons and so that you remember what you liked. I indicated my notebook and said, “I don’t forget anything!”

Though the bar area is cozy, they also now have a back room with tables, plus an outdoor area. In addition to the winery, the Sanninos also run a bed and breakfast and offer various wine education classes.

Our tray of tastes. We had already started on the first one!

2016 Sauvignon Blanc $20

We decided to begin with their sauvignon blanc, which is steel fermented. The aroma includes something floral and a hint of green, like asparagus—which should soon be available at the farm stands. As we sipped, I decided that we needed to try asparagus on the grill with sauvignon blanc. The taste is light and refreshing, and might also go well with barbequed chicken. Well, it is spring.

2016 Chilly Day Chardonnay $20

Although this is also steel fermented, it comes on a bit sweet, though the finish is quite dry. My tasting buddy and I had some disagreements about this one, since I said it tasted like unripe pear and he said cotton candy. It is a bit tart for those who like sweet wines, but if you like a touch of sweetness in an un-oaked chardonnay you’ll like this. The aroma is characteristically of honeysuckle.

A candle made from a wine bottle!

2016 Viognier $20

I thought I detected a bit of a basement smell in this one, as well as some minerality, but fortunately it tasted better than it smelled. It is again a bit sweet at the beginning, but nicely dry at the end. I’m thinking it tastes a bit of peaches or apricots. It would be nice to sip chilled, with some charcuterie and hard cheeses. And just as I’m saying that, the couple next to us get the cheese board with some sliced sausage and cheeses including parmigiana and a smoked gouda about which there was much enthusiasm.

2013 Syrah $30

Now we switch to the reds. However, there’s a caveat here. Most of the 2014s have not yet been bottled, but will be soon, so there may very well be some differences from my notes if you go later in the season. Based on our experience, though, you’ll not find any wines to dislike if you do. Again, we had some disagreement, this time on the smell. I said red candy, and he said motor oil. Really? Anyway, we agreed on the taste—not much fruit, a bit of spice (like nutmeg), and very dry. The menu says “soft tannins” and “jammy,” and we agree with the former but not the latter.

I always find it very educational to talk with the owners.

2013 “Spotlight” Petit Verdot $50

Mr. Sannino and I got into a bit of a discussion over our mutual affection for petit verdot, which is more often used as part of a blend than on its own: hence the name he gave it. He wanted to put petit verdot in the “spotlight” for a change. The aroma is lovely, of berries and bramble, and the taste is nice too. Fruity and again quite dry, with blackberry and some promising tannins. If I bought a bottle I’d want to cellar it for a couple of years. On the other hand, at $50 I wasn’t ready to spring for a bottle.

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon $38

This wine and the previous one have, according to the menu, won various silver medals. And it is very drinkable, with an aroma of black cherry and nice fruit tastes. My husband and I turn to each other and discover that I have written “not challenging” just as he says “tame.” Again, a safe choice.

I wonder who does all these blackboards?

2014 Francesco $45

Wait, you only get six tastes, right? Well, when it is clear you are appreciative of and thoughtful about wine sometimes you get something a little extra. As they say in New Orleans, a “lagniappe.” Mr. Sannino offers us this taste of his blend of five grape types, heavy on the petit verdot, which is not exactly a Bordeaux blend because it includes at least one variety they don’t use there. It is named for his father. I smell tobacco and chocolate, and the taste is the most interesting of the day, with some depth. Speaking of family, we learn that of his four children, three are interested in wine making, including a daughter studying viticulture at Cornell, and one may be interested in oysters. I opine that those oysters would go well with his sauvignon blanc!

The bar area is cozy and includes a small selection of wine-related gifts.

Reasons to visit: personal attention from the owners; a cozy bar setting; the Francesco ’14, the Sauvignon Blanc, the 2013 Petit Verdot.

IMG_3519 (1)

Shinn Winery: Sophisticated Rusticity February 19, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with brandy, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, Coalescence, Eight Hands Farm, Estate Merlot, First Fruit, grappa, Haven, Julius Drover Apple Brandy, Malbec, Nine Barrels, North Fork, petit verdot, Pinot Blanc, sauvignon blanc, Semillon, Shinn Estate Vineyards, Shinn shine, Sparkling Brut, Wild Boar Doe, wine tasting February 24, 2017

http://shinnestatevineyards.com/

Away from the Main Road and Sound Avenue wineries, on rural Oregon Road, Shinn’s tasting room is housed in a grey weathered wood building that seems rustic. However, the wines, the service, and their philosophy are all quite up to date.

We went there with two small distractions, ages five and two, so my notes are somewhat less detailed than usual, but we enjoyed our visit anyway, highlighted by a nice dish of mixed nuts we ordered, and a small plate of crackers for the little ones we had not (Shinn asks that you not bring in outside food, and has a small menu of their own.). The resident doggie also came in for a bit of attention. As we entered, a server asked that one member of our party of four adults not do a tasting, in order to supervise the little ones, but we managed to slip her some sips as we sat at a comfortable table for six.

Food menu. The mixed nuts were very good.

The last time we came here, also in the winter, it was deserted, but this time it was Presidents’ Weekend and the weather was unseasonably warm, and quite a few people were there. As a result, we learned that they have an additional tasting area in amongst the stainless-steel vats where they could accommodate the overflow crowd. When we arrived, there were even some hardy souls sitting outside on their pretty patio area.

The overflow crowd.

The first sight you have of the winery is, appropriately enough, the tall windmill which, along with solar panels, provides power to the winery and the attached farmhouse inn. The owners are very ecologically conscious, and use the “biodynamic” method to grow their grapes, which you can read about on their web site. Even the dishes used for their snacks are “compostable” and “made from fallen leaves.”

Windmill

A tasting includes any four wines from their menu for $15. The three of us made some diverse choices, and we ended up not tasting the wines in the perfect order (as all wineries specify on their menus), so I’ll just list them in the order in which I tasted mine and theirs! Fortunately, the first thing they put on our table was a nice big bottle of water and some cups, so I was able to cleanse my palate between tastes. We also tasted their apple brandy and grappa, about which more later.

2016 Coalescence $16

I started with their white blend, a steel-fermented mixture of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and riesling. The first time I had it I loved it, the second time not so much, but I guess the third time’s the charm, because this time I really enjoyed it. It is a pleasantly dry white with nice minerality but also a touch of fruity sweetness, most likely from the riesling. We bought a bottle.

2010 Sparkling Brut $40

Our guest opted to start his tasting with this, and given that he has toured the Champagne region of France, I was quite impressed that he liked this. He said it was like a traditional blanc de blanc, and both toasty and juicy—but not worth the price.

2014 Estate Merlot $26

My husband chose to do all reds, and started with their merlot, which he said would be “okay with spaghetti.” It is dry, and, he noted, does not have much fruit.

2016 First Fruit $22

Although this is made from sauvignon blanc grapes, it definitely has a cat pee smell, but also some green apple aromas. Fortunately, it tastes like green apple, and again is dry and a bit tart.

2013 Wild Boar Doe $32

Yes, this is a Bordeaux-style blend of “all five red varietals we grow”—that is, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and malbec. I’m not sure who ordered this one (I think I was distracted by being asked to admire a “Water Wow” creation.), but we agreed that it definitely has a raspberry smell and is very dry with lots of tannins. We decided that if one bought it, one should cellar it for a few years.

2013 Haven $35

I chose this one from the list of “small production” whites, and it is a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon grapes, kept on the skins overnight and then barrel fermented and aged. As a result, it has a lovely golden color and a taste of vanilla and toast and caramel. It’s a bit too sweet for me, though I liked it, and I would order it if I was having a spicy dish.

The Haven is a lovely color. It is named for the field where the grapes are grown.

2014 Cabernet Franc $38

Our guest was so taken with this wine that he bought a bottle to give as a gift to a friend. It has lots of tannins and some vegetal notes. My notes say broccoli! He said it was not earthy, and would benefit from some aging. My husband also had this one, and said it would be good with lamb, maybe like the delicious marinated lamb roast from Eight Hands Farm we had Sunday night.

An array of some of our choices.

2014 Nine Barrels $32

They make—you guessed it—nine barrels of this wine, which is their reserve merlot. My husband said it was “not that interesting,” and ventured the opinion that their winemaking was rather “tame.”

2015 Pinot Blanc $35

For my final taste, I chose another from the “small production” list, a wine that is aged for 11 months in neutral oak barrels. It has a nice aroma with some vanilla, and is a smooth, pleasant wine with no rough edges.

Julius Drover Apple Brandy $55

Shinn has their own distillery where they make several different liquors. The apple brandy is made from local apples and is aged for four years. A very small taste is $7, but really, you wouldn’t want too much, as the alcohol hits you right away. 80 proof! It tastes very like brandy, and not much like apples, but our guest is making a small study of apple brandies and bought a bottle. Julius Drover, by the way, refers to the owner’s grandfather, who was a farmer/bootlegger during Prohibition.

Shinn shine, Grappa $47 for 375 ml.

So the brandy was 80 proof, but this is 122 proof! One of us described it as rubbing alcohol poured through grape skins. It is powerful.

They have a few “agritainment” activities.

Reasons to visit: You want to get away from the main road wineries and try somewhere intimate and laid back; you’re interested in their liquors (in addition to the above, they make an eau de vie and another brandy); the Coalescence, the Cabernet Franc, the Sparkling Brut, the Haven; you want to support their earth-friendly philosophy.

Resident laid-back pooch.

Raphael Vineyards and Winery: On a Winter’s Day January 27, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Cabernet Franc Reserve, Eight Hands Farm, First Label Chardonnay, First Label Riesling, First Label Sauvignon Blanc, Greenport, Malbec Reserve, North Fork, Petit Verdot Reserve, Primo Reserve, Raphael Winery and Vineyard, Virgin Berry, White Primo Reserve, wine tasting January 29, 2017

http://www.raphaelwine.com/

Greenport was quiet. Some stores had their “closed for the season” signs up, while others had signs saying they would open at 11, but were still closed at 11:10. As a woman in one shop said to me last winter, when I asked about her neighboring shop not being open, “It’s winter in Greenport.” Indeed it is, as a chilly wind reminded us.

The architecture says Italy, but the weather says January in New York.

After a few errands, including a stop at Eight Hands Farm to pick up some free-range chicken, we headed to Raphael Winery, hoping it was not closed for a private party, which is often the case. It is not surprising that Raphael is a popular venue for weddings and other events, since they have a very spacious and attractive facility. Our enthusiastic and very well-informed server told us that we should come by on Sundays, since they don’t schedule parties on that day and often have free entertainment as well.

The attractive room is often used for weddings.

On this blustery Friday we were the only people there, so we were able to have great chats with our server, who had answers for all our questions and some good ideas of his own, especially about food pairings. No surprise, he revealed that he had worked in restaurant kitchens. The menu offers a number of options, including a mixed tasting of reds and whites and two premium tastings. The white premium tasting offers four whites for $20, and the red has four reds, also for $20. We decided to get one of each and share. Our server lined up the glasses on the counter and poured all four whites, and then all four reds so they could warm up and breath a bit before we had them. We learned that our complaint about the wineries serving the whites too cold was not their fault, as they had to maintain a certain temperature in case of a food inspector’s visit. Ah-ha. Speaking of food, Raphael does not allow outside food, and suggests you check out the “wide variety” of snacks they offer in their shop. Their gift shop has a more extensive selection of items than many other places.

2014 First Label Sauvignon Blanc $39

85% sauvignon blanc and 15% Semillon grapes make this a very nice drink, tart but with good fruit; lemony as one would expect, but more like lemongrass than a strong lemon flavor. The aroma has notes of minerals and toasted almonds. Steel fermented, it would pair well with local oysters.

Nice sized pour!

2014 First Label Riesling (Virgin Berry) $39

So our first question was, what does “Virgin Berry” mean? No, it’s not Sir Richard Branson’s latest venture. It means that some of the grapes don’t happen to get fertilized, and these small seedless berries are hand harvested and used to make this Riesling. We end up having a long discussion about this wine, because it is quite tart for a Riesling, actually for any wine, and we wonder about food pairings. I say corn chowder, and our server suggests roast pork with a sweet glaze, and my husband opts for lobster bisque. The aroma is earthy, with some of that cat pee smell you expect, and also cut grass.

2014 First Label Chardonnay $39

For an oaked chardonnay, this is pretty good. The menu says it is aged 50/50 in French oak and new oak, which somewhat mellows the oakiness. The aroma is vanilla and Werther’s butterscotch, the taste is quite buttery with a long finish, more like a California chard. Our server suggests it would go with linguini with clam sauce, putting a bit of the wine in the sauce. We also discuss that they no longer make Chardeaux, a chardonnay/sauvignon blanc blend we had liked. That’s why you have to try each winery every year, we say, because things change.

2015 White Primo Reserve $45

At first sip I’m not impressed, but as I warm the glass in my palms a lovely Granny Smith apple taste begins to bloom. This is a blend of 31% sauvignon blanc, 20% Semillon, and 49% Riesling, fermented in both stainless steel and oak. The aroma is sweet and flowery, the taste is tart, but an easier to take tart than the Riesling, very crisp. Our server suggests that the cooler temperature is good for sipping, while the warmer is good to go with dinner.

2012 Malbec Reserve $69

The prices of the reds somewhat take our breath away (though they have less expensive wines on the other menu), and we get into a discussion of the economies of scale and the problems of pricing wines when you don’t make enough for a mass market. In any event, our server suggests that all of the reds would benefit from a few years in the cellar, which would make them a better investment. The aroma is of prune plums, and so is the taste, with some cherry as well. It’s nicely dry, with plenty of tannins, which probably means it would age well. It would, we agree, go well with pork or lamb chops, both of which we saw at Eight Hands. (We urge our server, as someone who appreciates good food, to pay them a visit.)

The line-up of reds.

2012 Cabernet Franc Reserve $69

The aroma is the expected blackberry, and also some wood. I say it’s a nice aroma, while my husband says “fireplace logs.” It’s good but a bit simple and a touch sour at the end and quite tannic. “Chewy,” says our server, and we agree it could probably use a couple of years of aging. It could certainly hold its own against a steak.

2012 Petit Verdot Reserve $69

I discover that our server and I share a love of Petit Verdot, and he tells of the time he was able to taste the 2005, and how great it was. 2012 should be a good year, and if our cellar were not full we might have considered a bottle, despite the price. The smell is lovely, with dark fruit and maybe some chocolate, and it tastes good. We see some sediment at the bottom of the glass, and he notes that the wines are not filtered. Again, the tannins are strong, and we agree it could use more time in the bottle.

2012 Primo Reserve $72

Our favorite of the reds, this is a blend of 64% merlot, 17% Malbec, and 19% cabernet franc. We smell wood and something vegetal—asparagus! Dry, but not as tannic as the others, it has nice fruit tastes and a lovely finish. You could drink this with boeuf bourguignon and be a happy camper. If I came to sit, listen to music, and have a glass of wine this is what I’d choose.

One view of the large circular bar.

Reasons to visit: a beautiful tasting room that is reminiscent of an Italian villa or monastery; a gift shop with lots of items; the First Label Sauvignon Blanc, the White Primo Reserve, the Petit Verdot Reserve, the Primo Reserve; a great server (if he’s on duty when you go!).

A touch of Italy

Sparkling Pointe: For a Celebratory Mood January 14, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with 2007 Brut Seduction, 2009 Brut Magnum, 2012 Blanc de Blanc, 2014 Brut, Carnaval Cuvee Rouge, Champagne, North Fork, Sparkling Pointe, sparkling wines, wine tasting January 20, 2017

http://www.sparklingpointe.com/

After we came home from running errands, my husband discovered that he couldn’t find his house keys (which also meant a variety of other important keys). We retraced our steps, becoming gloomier and gloomier. Then…he found them! Feeling in a celebratory mood, we decided to head to the only-sparkling-wines vineyard, Sparkling Pointe. (Well, we don’t need much encouragment to opt for a sparkling wine.)

Everyone there seemed to be in a celebratory mood.

Plenty of room for more people.

The airy, modern room was filled with groups at tables, enjoying bottles of wine and various snacks they had bought at the winery (outside snacks are not allowed, but they have a nice list of cheeses and charcuterie). The place was a bit noisy, but not unpleasantly so, and the staff behind the bar was friendly and accommodating, especially when they took note of me taking notes. The tasting menu offers four tastes for $20. We noticed that the menu included Cuvee Carnaval, a rosé sparkling wine which we ended up dumping last time, as it was much too sweet for us. So I asked if it was possible to substitute the Blanc de Blanc for the Carnaval. At first she said no, but then reconsidered and said yes. Whew.

The menu.

With our tasting, she included a bottle of Fiji water, which was useful for cleansing our palates between tastes. A note about the term “sparkling wines”: the only wines which can legally be called “champagne” are those grown in the Champagne region of France. However, these wines are made using the same method—méthode champenoise—as in France, and are made to taste similar to French champagnes.

Nice bubbles!

2014 Brut $29

A blend of 60% chardonnay and 40% pinot noir, this is a pleasant, crisp drink. The aroma is of lemon peel and stone or mineral, and the taste of the tiny bubbles as they burst on the tongue is of pear and citrus. Very nice.

2009 Brut Magnum $75 for 1.5 liters

This one is aged in the bottle—and it’s a big bottle!—for quite a while, spending four years “sur lies” (which means the wine is aged on the lees, the bits of grapes that form a sediment), giving it a more complex and interesting taste. It is a blend of 59% chardonnay, 31% pinot noir, 5% pinot meunier, and 5% reserve. The aroma is warmly yeasty, with a whiff of something chemical. The first sip seems somewhat chemical to us, too, but as it sits in the glass that dissipates and we find it quite good. This is a sparkler you could compare to French champagnes and it wouldn’t do badly. By the way, we get a new glass with each taste, a nice idea.

You get a nice sized pour here.

2012 Blanc de Blanc $44

Okay, so the Blanc de Blanc is not on the tasting menu, but we’re getting it instead of the Carnaval. Good thing too, as it is our favorite of the day. Made of 100% chardonnay grapes, it was also ages on the lees. It has an aroma of honey, maybe thyme honey, and crisp small bubbles. My tasting buddy says it “blooms in the mouth.” I say it would make a good sipping sparkler, with tastes of citrus and just a touch of sweetness.

2007 Brut Seduction $72

This really reminds me of a French champagne, with an aroma of baking bread and almonds. The taste also has hints of almonds, as well a red grapefruit. The bubbles are tiny. Our server informs us that this spends eight years on the lees, and is a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. Really lovely. Too bad it is so expensive, but the method of making these wines is labor intensive and requires lots of years of investment, so the cost is understandable.

They don’t allow outside food, but do have a nice menu–including chocolates.

Reasons to visit: you feel celebratory (whether because you found your keys or for some other reason); you like sparkling wines; you feel like doing some shopping in the well-stocked boutique; in the summer you can sit outside and sip champagne…I mean sparkling wine.

Brazilian carnival masks on display in the boutique–the owners have a connection to Brazil (hence the wine named Carnaval).

This is the first winery I’ve ever seen with its own perfume!

Long Island Spirits: Time to Warm Up January 8, 2017

Posted by nofowineaux in Vodka and Whisky and tagged with Bull Moose Three Barrel Rye Whisky, Deepwells Botanical Dry Gin, LIV Standard Edition Vodka, Long Island Spirits, North Fork, Pine Barrens Reserve Botanical Dry Gin, Pine Barrens Single Malt Whisky, Ristretto Espresso Vodka, Rough Rider The Big Stick, sorbetto, vodka, whiskey, whisky January 10, 2017

http://lispirits.com/

It takes more than a little snow to keep us from doing a tasting.

There’s something about a cold snowy day that gets me thinking about whiskey rather than wine—and certainly not beer. So we headed to Long Island Spirits—formerly known as Long Island Vodka, or LiV, but now much more than just vodka. We hadn’t been there for two years, and, though the tasting room is the same, the menu has certainly changed, with many more options. In addition to their classic vodka, they have a new vodka that is corn based and tastes very different. Then there are a couple of gins and several whiskeys. Plus their line of sorbettos—after- dinner drinks comparable to Limoncello—has greatly expanded. And we didn’t even begin to explore their menu of cocktails.

Lots of options!

Plus cocktails…

Since we had the tasting room to ourselves on this Sunday after a big snowstorm, we took our time and enjoyed chatting with the server, who had plenty to tell us about our choices. They have two basic menus, with the vodkas and sorbettos and a gin on one, with any three for $11, and the whiskeys and bourbons and a different gin on the other, with any three for $16. We decided to share one of each group of tastings, which meant we got to go home with two cute little glasses to add to our collection.

The glasses are free with your tasting.

LIV Standard Edition Vodka $32/1 liter

Served practically frozen straight from the freezer, this is a good vodka for someone who finds most vodka rather tasteless. It has an intriguing smoky flavor and a smooth—almost too smooth—finish. I think it would add an interesting depth to cocktails such as a Bloody Mary, and you could also sip it straight or on the rocks. Our server informed us that it is made from corn, unlike their classic vodka, which uses Long Island potatoes, and is a new product. Good addition to their line-up, we think.

You can see they have quite an array of products.

LIV Ristretto Espresso Vodka $35/750 ml

They make this with actual brewed coffee and sugar, plus vodka. If you like Starbucks espresso, you’ll like this drink. Our server says she likes it mixed with chocolate syrup and cream for an after dinner drink. Yum.

Deepwells Botanical Dry Gin $35/750 ml

Our glass got a quick rinse after the espresso so that we could really taste and appreciate the varied flavors of this gin. Thoughtfully, our server also gave us some water so we could rinse out our palates. According to the label, it is made from 28 “local and exotic botanicals,” amongst which we were not surprised to find anise and orris root, since we detect a strong note of licorice. It smells like cloves and other spices and has a complex flavor. My husband, a devotee of martinis and Gibsons, likes the taste, but would not want it in a martini. Our server suggests it would be good in a Tom Collins, and I could see it going very well in a gin and tonic—or again, just on the rocks.

We had the room to ourselves.

Pine Barrens Reserve Botanical Dry Gin $45/750 ml

For the switch to the other menu, we get a different glass, with a little etching of pine cones on it. Our server suggests we start with this, so we can do a gin to gin comparison. It is quite different. This is a gin that is aged in whiskey barrels, which, we decide, makes it a good gin for someone who likes whiskey. It smells somewhat piney, and tastes like a cross between gin and whiskey. It also uses 28 botanicals. I have to say, it goes down very easy. My husband again says he wouldn’t want it in a martini, but I think it would be perfectly fine straight.

Pine Barrens Single Malt Whisky $80/750 ml

I like single malt scotch, so I was interested to see what this was like. The aroma is sweet and again a bit piney. It’s my favorite of the day. The LIV web site has an interesting description of how they make this: “Pine Barrens is the first American Single Malt Whisky to be distilled on Long Island. Instead of creating whisky from a regular mash, Pine Barrens uses an actual finished 10%ABV barley wine English styled Ale Beer that has a high hop count of 70 IBU’s.” As they say, it is incredibly smooth, with some tastes of spices such as nutmeg.

Rough Rider “The Big Stick” $60/750 ml

You may not know this, but Theodore Roosevelt took his Rough Riders out to Montauk for training before they rode up San Juan Hill. In any event, this rye whisky is made from winter rye, a cover crop that is used to enrich the soil after potatoes are harvested. The name may be a reference to the fact that it is 121 proof, in addition to Roosevelt’s famous quote! Though it is not as smooth as the Single Malt, it is still a good drink, with some nice spice tastes, though a bit sweet for me.

Bull Moose Three Barrel Rye Whisky $45/750 ml

Just for comparison sake, and because we have been having such interesting conversations about the drinks, as well as about various other North Fork venues, we are given a little sample of this other rye whisky. I find it less interesting than the Rough Rider, though I think it would make a superlative hot toddy. It is called “three barrel” because it is actually aged in three different kinds of barrels: new American oak, bourbon casks, and Pine Barren casks.

We get a small bottle of the Pine Barrens Single Malt to take home.

They have a small selection of gift items.

Reasons to visit: it’s winter and you need something to warm your innards; you’d like to try locally made, small batch, and really good spirits; you like vodka; you like gin; you like whisky.

Jamesport Vineyards: Brrr, It’s Cold Outside December 16, 2016

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting, Uncategorized and tagged with 8 Hands Farm, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, East End Cinq Red, East End Syrah, Estate Riesling, Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Jamesport Vineyards, merlot, North Fork, pinot noir, Thimeo Reserve, wine tasting December 18, 2016

http://www.jamesportwines.com/

On the coldest day so far this winter, we ventured forth to do some errands and a wine tasting. We paid our final visits until spring to Bayview (potatoes and Brussels sprouts) and Briermere (last pie for months to come, a yummy blackberry apple), and then headed to Jamesport for a tasting. In the past, we’d been there in warm weather and had enjoyed sitting outside on their pretty patio, watching families frolic in the capacious back yard and enjoying oysters. Some day, we decided, we’d have to return to try the flatbreads from their outdoor wood-fired oven. But now it was winter, very quiet, and rather chilly. The only other occupants of the tasting room were a small party enjoying a bottle of wine at one of the tables. There are a few small tables and a long bar along one side. Not much is on offer by way of merchandise aside from the wines. We stepped up to the bar, and eventually the pleasant young woman behind it came over and asked us if we wanted to do a tasting.

Plenty of room at the bar on this cold winter Friday.

Also room at the tables…

We did, but first we needed some time to peruse the menu. A tasting consists of any five of their wines for $18, so we decided to share one, even though that meant we had to skip many of the wines. The menu offers nine whites (including one sparkling), seven reds (which includes a rosé, though some places list the rosé with the whites), two dessert wines, and a non-alcoholic verjus. No guidance from the server being on offer, we made up our own minds. As Christmas music tinkled in the background, we signaled her that we were ready for our first taste.

2015 Estate Sauvignon Blanc $21.95

In the past we’ve enjoyed their steel fermented East End Sauvignon Blanc with our oysters, so we decided it was time to try their other sauvignon blanc, one that is also steel fermented but spends some time in “oak puncheons.” The aroma is mostly vegetal, with a hint of cat pee. The server describes it as “New Zealand style.” We sniff and sip. Nicely dry, with a touch of sweetness on the tongue. I taste pineapple, and my tasting buddy says he can taste the oak. Maybe a little.

2013 Estate Riesling (Dry) $25.95

Described on the menu as “trocken”—which means dry in the German style—and by our server as having “no residual sugar,” this is indeed quite dry. In fact, I find it rather sour. My husband disagrees, though he agrees with my assessment that this is not my favorite riesling. I think it smells somewhat chemical, with a whiff of apricot pits (arsenic, anyone?). I taste hard green apricots and not ripe apple. He likes it better than I do, though in general we both favor dry rieslings.

2014 East End Cinq Red $18.95

Now we move to the reds, and get a clean glass. By the way, we like their glasses very much—stemless and round-bottomed, they work well to warm the wines which, as in many places, are all served too cold. If you know French, you may already have guessed that this is a blend of five grapes—cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, and pinot noir. Our server disappears to take a phone call before we can ask her about the proportions. The bottle was just opened, which might account for a smell my husband characterizes as gasoline. I’m not sure I agree (we seem to have more differences of opinion than usual today!), but I do get a bit of a sweet chemical aroma in addition to the expected red fruit smells. We do, however, agree that the wine has more aroma than taste, and it is dry but not at all tannic. I think it is a bit unbalanced, though I like the slightly peppery note at the end. I would say just okay, a red you could have with roast chicken or lamb chops but not with Italian food or steak.

2014 Thiméo Reserve $74.95

“How is this pronounced?” we ask our server before she can disappear again, “And where did the name come from?” She replies, “Timeo, and it is named for the grandson of the French man who makes our barrels, Jean Louis Bossuet. We collaborated with him to make this wine.” While we have her, we ask about the grapes. “75% merlot and 25% cabernet franc,” she replies, and is off to the far end of the bar before we can ask her why this one is so expensive. Oh well. It smells good; we detect lots of cocoa and some of the oak. We try warming the glass in our palms to try to get a better idea of the taste, since we find it nice but not $75 nice. Lots of tannins, so perhaps it would age well. I decide to use a phrase I’ve seen lots of times, “It shows promise.” My husband says you’d have to have an awful lot of faith in promises to buy it at that price.

My favorite of the day, the syrah. We also liked the glasses.

2014 East End Syrah $18.95

Finally, a wine I really like! The menu—and our server—describe this as having been made in the “feminine style,” and therefore “not jammy.” The aroma is of warm spices, like cardamom, and dark fruit, the taste is dry but fruity. This would also pair well with lamb chops (maybe from 8 Hands Farm), but you wouldn’t want it with a very strong-flavored entrée, since it would be overwhelmed. If we needed a red, I could see getting a bottle of this.

Reasons to visit: come in the summer, when you can sit outside and enjoy music and snacks, like their wood-oven-baked flatbreads; the East End Syrah; in the past, we’ve liked their East End Sauvignon Blanc.

Plenty of room in the summer for families, dogs, and picnicers.

Plenty of room in the summer for families, dogs, and picnickers.

Through a window in the tasting room you can peep in to see the vats.

Lenz Winery: A Matter of Style December 4, 2016

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Blanc de Noir Rose, cabernet sauvignon, Catapano, Eric Fry, Estate Selection Malbec, Estate Selection Merlot, Lenz Winery, Long Island, North Fork, Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Old Vines Chardonnay, Old Vines Gewurztraminer, Old Vines Merlot, petit verdot, Pinot Gris, pinot noir, White Label Chardonnay, wine tasting December 6, 2016

http://www.lenzwine.com/Home.htm

In warmer weather, this courtyard might be a nice place to relax.

“Eric,” said our server, referring to Eric Fry, the winemaker for Lenz, “prefers a more austere style, with salty minerality.” We agree. If you want to understand the difference a winemaker’s choices can make, then you should definitely include Lenz in your tastings. For example, back in October we tasted Pugliese’s 2010 Blanc de Noir Nature, a rosé made from pinot noir grapes, and at Lenz we tasted their 2014 Blanc de Noir, also made from pinot noir grapes. Of course, they are different vintages, but look at the difference in taste: my notes for Pugliese (just down the street from Lenz) note a vegetable taste and aroma, while my notes for Lenz highlight a smell of minerals and salt and mushed up fruit and a taste of red grapefruit. Same grape, same “terroir,” different winemakers, different tastes. Both, I might add, quite good.

The Lenz tasting room is in an attractive wooden building with a long bar along one side and a nice array of wine-related gifts and art for sale along the other sides. They have room for tables, but don’t have any, which might be a good addition, though I did note some picnic tables in the courtyard. On this sunny winter Sunday, there were several small groups and couples at the bar, tasting the wines, chatting, and listening to the soft jazz and pop music on the sound system. I heard Frank Sinatra, among others.

Some of their gift options

The tasting menu features an Estate tasting of five wines for $12 or a Premium tasting of five of their better wines for $15, plus a few additional wines available for individual tastes, such as their sparkling wine and the rosé. Our enthusiastic and knowledgeable server suggested that he could also do an all white and/or all red tasting for us, and we decided that it would be perfect to share an all white and then an all red tasting. Together the two were $27.

Pretty color, too.

2014 Blanc de Noir Rosé $24

As I noted above, we smelled a salty minerality plus mushed up fruit (a description I’m sticking to, even if that’s not a “wine word”) and agreed that this is a very dry, French-style rosé with nice acidity and a citrusy taste like red grapefruit. Though you wouldn’t want to sip it on its own, it would be a very nice summer aperitif with a cheese tray, especially if you had some brie and creamy goat cheese on it, perhaps from Catapano.

2012 Pinot Gris $25

Our server describes the style of this white as “Alsatian, with no residual sugar.” I get the idea of austere here also, as this is a very dry wine with a vegetal aroma and an almost cabbage-y taste. My husband compares it to Brussels sprouts, one of his favorite vegetables. Again, though not a sipping wine, this would go well with certain foods, such as a charcuterie platter. Nice acidity.

2010 Old Vines Gewürztraminer $30

And now, as they say, for something completely different. 2010 was a hot dry year, and, according to our server, a good year for gewürztraminer. He may be onto something. This is a delicious wine, with lots of aromas including lychees in syrup and tropical fruits. This is again a dry wine, though gewürztraminers are often somewhat sweet, and it has some sweetness and a taste like roasted pear. I observe that it would be perfect with turkey, and then flash on a memory of a number of years ago when we came to Lenz in order to buy several bottles of their gewürztraminer for Thanksgiving.

You can buy hand-decorated bottles to bring to a friend’s house.

2013 White Label Chardonnay $15

Two years ago when we came here we bought a couple of bottles of their White Label Chard, which was $15 then, so it is quite the bargain now. This is a steel-fermented chard, with an almost candy-like aroma and a dry, crisp, gooseberry taste, with a touch of pineapple. You could sip this with or without food, and it would go with any white-wine friendly dish.

2013 Old Vines Chardonnay $30

When Lenz says “old vines,” they’re not kidding, as they first planted their grapes in 1978, which makes them practically ancient by Long Island standards. Our server says that Eric wants you to “taste the year,” so ages the wine in neutral oak barrels. This is a good chardonnay to give someone who thinks they don’t like chardonnay, as it is a lovely wine. The aroma is of peaches with some vanilla, and the taste is crisp and dry with just a bit of sweetness and a taste of not-quite-ripe pear.

Lovely dark color

2013 Estate Selection Malbec $40

We get a fresh glass and switch to the reds. This is a “pre-release” wine, not yet on the tasting menu. Lots of wineries use Malbec in their blends, but not as many use it by itself. The label notes it is “unfined and unfiltered,” as are several of their reds, which goes along with the philosophy on their website of trying not to interfere too much with the natural process of turning grapes into wine. We smell lots of fruit aromas plus an undercurrent of something my husband describes as medicinal and I think of as Band-aids. Mouth-watering taste, with lots of tannins, dry, with dark ripe prune plum taste. Their tasting notes say chocolate, but I’m not getting that. Yum. Interesting wine.

2012 Cabernet Sauvignon $25

Now I get chocolate—this one smells like those chocolate-covered cherries. This is also good, with lots of dark fruit tastes and a nice acidity that would complement lamb very well. The tasting menu mentions cedar, and my tasting buddy objects, “I hate eating cedar.” Ha. I do get some woodiness. Not complex, but good enough that if we had room in our cellar we would buy some to hold for a couple of years.

Unlike some places, the labels actually give you information about the wine.

2010 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon $50

This one also could use some aging, though it is already very good, with a slightly funky aroma that is mostly of red fruit. As we sip we note a complexity, with layers of flavors, including raspberry and other dark fruits. 2010 was a good year for reds, and this one is no exception.

2012 Estate Selection Merlot $30

Though this is mostly merlot, it also has some cabernet franc and malbec and petit verdot in it. We get the typical cherry aroma and taste of Long Island merlots. Judging by the tannins, we think this could also age well. Good.

2010 Old Vines Merlot $65

Always fun to taste the same grape from different years to see how they compare. Our server enthuses that the ’93 and ’97 merlots are still very good, noting that this one should also age well. “Don’t drink it right away,” he warns, if you buy it. We don’t—not convinced it is worth the price—but I think it would be hard to resist drinking it sooner than later, as it is another winner. Aromas and tastes of chocolate and cherry and tobacco greet us, but it is not a “fruit bomb.” Nicely dry.

You can see some of the paintings for sale, and also a sign on the beam that never fails to amuse my husband.

Reasons to visit: a nicer than usual selection of gifts, including original paintings; a lovely calm setting and knowledgeable and enthusiastic servers; all the wines if you like them dry, but especially the Old Vines Gewürztraminer, the Old Vines Chardonnay, the Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Old Vines Merlot.

You can enter and exit the courtyard through this tunnel–or go around it!

That time of year thou mayst in me behold/ When yellow leaves, or none, or few, do hang/Upon those boughs…

Waters Crest: New Digs November 19, 2016

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting, Uncategorized and tagged with "5" Red Blend, Cabernet Franc Grand Vin, Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin, Dry Riesling, Dry Rose, Eight Hands Farm, Malbec, Merlot Grand Vin, North Fork, reserve chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, Sunny Side Up Bed and Breakfast, Waters Crest, Wayside Market, wine tasting November 21, 2016

http://www.waterscrest.com/

The new home of Waters Crest looks quite homey.

What a difference a year makes! Last fall we visited Waters Crest’s tiny tasting room in a drab strip of shops around the corner from the Southold town dump and had the room to ourselves; this fall we encountered a limo full of 20-somethings on their way into a cozy cottage on the Main Road that had been transformed into a comfortable bar and groupings of tables and chairs. Over near the windows, a group was celebrating one person’s birthday, cake and all. Next to us at the bar we got into a conversation with two men who turned out to also be bloggers and a very friendly young woman who owns a nearby bed and breakfast (the Sunny Side Up Bed and Breakfast, closed now for the season, but check them out next June), who is also quite knowledgeable about local wine and food.

There were several sets of comfy chairs.

The advantage of being the only ones in the tasting room last year was that we had the exclusive attention of Adam, the very well-informed server who gave us all sorts of information about the wines. This time, we again encountered Adam, and had occasion to admire his ability to multi-task as he handled the crowd (with the help of Mrs. Waters and her daughter), and, after things calmed down a bit, again talked with us seriously about the wines, about which he is clearly passionate. And he has much to be proud about, as we liked all the wines, some more than others. Jim Waters doesn’t have his own vineyard, but produces his wines from grapes he buys from various growers, such as Jamesport. Clearly, he chooses well.

The tasting menu offers eight different wines—four whites and four reds—all of which you can sample for $20, a bargain. Or you can pick only a few, at $4 per taste. Since I have a cold, and we wanted to try all eight, we decided the way to share a tasting was to get two glasses and have my husband pour half the taste into my glass. Once Adam realized what we were doing, he very courteously shared out each tasting between the two glasses, and we certainly had plenty to drink.

2015 Dry Rosé $24.99

According to the menu, the rosé is made from a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc using the “saignée” method, in which the juice is taken from red grapes at an early stage, when it is still light in color, and can then be mixed with white grape juice. We note a faint aroma of unripe strawberries and then sip. If I was blindfolded, opines my tasting pal, I would think this was a sauvignon blanc. I see what he means, because this is quite dry with a bit of a citrus edge, but also some strawberry flavor like a rosé. It would certainly pair well with oysters.

2015 Dry Riesling $24.99

This is just the type of riesling we like—dry, crisp, and mineral. I think it smells like honey, and my husband adds leather. The taste reminds me of a nice crisp pear, and I think it would be perfect with lobster bisque.

2014 Reserve Chardonnay $23.99

If you are ambivalent about whether you like your chards oaked or unoaked you might like this one. The wine is fermented in steel, then spends three months in used French oak, so it gets just a hint of the vanilla the oak imparts. This particular wine is already sold out (except for what they keep for the tasting room) and I can see why. The little bit of oak smooths out the edges of the wine, which is dry with green apple tastes and some minerality and really nice acidity. Lemongrass “on the nose,” as they say.

Not drunk, just trying a different angle!

2015 Sauvignon Blanc $24.99

Adam explains that this is actually an orange wine, which means that though it is a white it has a faint orange tone from the grape skins. If you’re expecting an Australian-style sauvignon blanc you’ll be disappointed, but if you come with an open mind you’ll probably be happy. It has a bit of a butterscotch taste and aroma, and would complement a plate of charcuterie beautifully.

2014 “5” Red Blend $29.99

As we transition to the reds, Adam rinses both our glasses with a bit of the red, a good idea. This bottle has my favorite label, a version of the famous Charles Demuth painting of the “Great Number Five” which was inspired by a poem by William Carlos Williams (check out the painting for “secret” clues to their friendship). It is almost all merlot, with 11% cabernet sauvignon and 4% malbec. We enjoy it, but my husband adds, “This wine lacks gravitas.” Yes, it is a rather light red, with some aromas and tastes of plum jam. Good for casual drinking, maybe with roast chicken.

2013 Merlot “Grand Vin” $59.99

This is one of a number of Waters Crest’s wines with high ratings from Wine Enthusiast. Personally, as a retired teacher, I am not into assigning grades, but if you find that helpful, there it is. Adam suggests that this wine, though it has been aged 22 months in new French oak, would benefit from further aging. There are plenty of tannins, so I think he had a point. Both the aroma and the taste have notes of spice, and if you drank it now I would pair it with lamb chops. I recommend you check out the meats from Eight Hands Farm—all pasture raised and quite delicious.

We liked the ceiling lights, like mini-barrels.

2013 Cabernet Franc “Grand Vin” $59.99

You could age this one for ten years, suggests Adam, but if you bought it you probably would drink it sooner than that. It is quite delicious, and our new friend-with-the-bed-and-breakfast’s favorite of the wines. After aging 22 months in new French oak, it has lots of dark fruit tastes, plenty of tannins, plus notes of chocolate, leather, raspberries, and spices. It could stand up to a steak, maybe from Wayside Market.

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Vin” $59.99

We discuss the season of 2013, which was a long hot one, leading to lots of ripeness in the reds. This one smells to me like chocolate bark with almonds and berries, and the taste is more blackberry than chocolate. Though Adam says again this could be aged 15 or more years, we find it quite smooth, almost velvety. This one spent 23 months in American oak before being bottled.

One part of the bar area.

Reasons to visit: pleasant new tasting room conveniently located across the street from Wickham’s Fruit Farm stand and Touch of Venice (where, if you bring a bottle of Waters Crest wine, they waive the corkage fee);they have a roomy parking lot in the back; the Dry Riesling, Reserve Chard, and Sauvignon Blanc among the whites; the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Vins”; Adam if he’s serving in the tasting room; the pleasant back yard (in the warmer weather).

We might have to come back on a Friday and get a glass of cabernet.

Or in the summer, to experience the back yard.

Channing Daughters: Secret Favorite November 5, 2016

Posted by nofowineaux in Tasting and tagged with Blaufrankisch, cabernet franc, channing daughters, dornfelder, Envelope, gewurztraminer, Il Cappuccino, Long Island, malvasia bianco, Muscat de Boom, muscat ottonel, petit verdot, Rosso Fresco, Sag Harbor, sauvignon blanc, Scuttlehole Chardonnay, Scuttlehole Road, South Fork, syrah, Tocai Fruliano, wine tasting November 7, 2016

http://www.channingdaughters.com/

Outside the tasting room you are greeted by this statue made by Mr. Channing from a tree turned upside down.

I have a confession to make. Though my blog is titled Nofo for North Fork, my favorite East End winery is actually on the South Fork, just outside Sag Harbor, to be exact. Why do I like Channing Daughters so much? For one thing, I’ve never had a wine of theirs that I disliked. We joined their wine club years ago (we get the wine delivered) and are fascinated by the wide variety of different wines they offer, especially for such a small winery. According to their web site, they have “three dozen different bottlings.” Their web site is worth visiting, to learn about the interesting experiments they do. When they introduced rosés, they made six or seven different ones. I bought a case of six varieties, and we enjoyed them all. They also started making vermouths a few years ago, using local herbs where possible. They do a better job with reds than many Long Island wineries, and their Scuttlehole Chardonnay is the one against which we measure all other steel-fermented chards. In fact, we served it at our daughter’s wedding.

We also like the intimacy of the tasting room, which is augmented in the summer by some outside tables. And in the tasting room, we’ve always found the servers to be knowledgeable about the wines, happy to answer any questions guests pose to them. Certainly our server on this visit fit that description, discussing both the wines and the business of a winery with well-informed intelligence. For example, we started talking about the contrast between summer and fall crowds, especially in the Hamptons, and he discussed the challenges of staffing a tasting room for a seasonal spike in visitors.

Because we are wine club members, we did not have the regular tasting. Instead, our server made sure that we got to try some of their newest releases, including the bottles that had arrived in our most recent shipment. A regular tasting consists of six wines for $14, and the pour is on the generous side. Even though I won’t be writing about most of the wines on the regular tasting menu, I don’t hesitate to recommend that people go there. You won’t be disappointed. And while you’re on the South Fork, you can also visit Wölffer Estate, if you want a second winery visit. (However, I don’t recommend Duck Walk.) Then you can drive into Sag Harbor and walk up and down Main Street, checking out the art galleries, book store, and boutiques, and ending with dinner at Il Cappuccino (or one of the other restaurants). We haven’t been there recently, but we used to be quite enamored of the garlic knots.

In Sag Harbor you can also see a film at the cinema, which shows off-beat or art house type films.

2015 Scuttlehole Chardonnay $18

As I said, this is our favorite East End chard, named for the street on which the winery is located. It is a crisp, dry, steel-fermented wine, with lots of lemon tastes and, as they say, mouth-watering acidity. It goes great with food, especially fish and seafood, like Peconic Bay scallops.

Part of the array of different wines they make.

2014 Sauvignon Blanc $23

There is a little tocai fruliano (8%) mixed in with the sauvignon blanc, and both are slightly oaked. The aroma is interesting, almost candy-like, with some floral notes, and the taste is equally complex. We discuss, and identify stone or mineral and peach and peach pit. Because it is only slightly oaked it is still quite crisp, and, like their wines in general, dry. Nice.

Envelope has a rich color.

2012 Envelope $42

Why “Envelope”? Because the idea was to “push the envelope” of what a chardonnay could be. Though “pushing the envelope” could describe what they do with many of their wines (like Research Cab, or Over and Over, or L’Enfant Sauvage), the results with this one are quite good. It is what is called an “orange” wine, though it is not quite orange, because it spends more time on the skins, giving it a deeper color than your average white. A blend of 66% chardonnay, 26% gewürztraminer, and 8% malvasia bianca, it has an almost vegetable-like aroma, which my husband compares to his favorite veggie: Brussels sprouts. Not a sipping wine, it would go great with charcuterie, where its tart edge would complement the richness of the meats.

2015 Rosso Fresco $20

This one is also on the regular tasting menu, and is their sort of all-purpose red blend, a mixture this year of 47% merlot, 30% blaufrankisch, 10% syrah, 10% dornfelder, and 3 % cabernet franc. Now that’s a blend I bet you won’t find anywhere else! I compare the aroma to funky cherry pie. The taste is of plums and other dark fruits, and is again dry, with some tannins. My tasting buddy thinks it would go well with a stew, and now that the weather is turning colder perhaps I’ll make one. Our server also mentions that the winemaker used to be a chef, so he is very attuned to making wines that go well with food.

2014 Petit Verdot $32.40 (for wine club members)

I tend to like petit verdots, so I was eager to taste this one, and I was not disappointed. Our server described it as “smoky, dark, and full-bodied,” and suggested it was a good wine to cellar. I agree. The taste makes me think of dark chocolate with a cherry inside, but it is quite tannic and I think would benefit from some aging.

2015 Muscat de Boom $30 (for a small bottle)

Funny name for a really delicious after dinner wine, this is made with muscat ottonel grapes which are partially fermented and then dosed with grape brandy. It is slightly viscous, like a thin honey, but not cloyingly sweet, and would pair well with dark chocolate and almonds. Almond Joy? Why not!

Reasons to visit: it’s one of the best wineries on Long Island; you’re on the South Fork and want to visit a winery or you’ve decided on a day trip to Montauk and want to stop at a winery on your way; the wood sculptures made by Mr. Channing; a wide variety of wines to suit every taste; the Scuttlehole Chardonnay, the Envelope, the Rosso Fresco, the Petit Verdot…actually, all their wines!

More of the array of wines.

NoFo Wineaux

Wine notes from Long Island's North Fork